Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

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Brooothru

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My problem would be tying up my fermentation chamber for 2 months. Read around the forum a little, but the general consensus is that the oxygen exposure and risk of contamination from the transfer does more damage than sitting on dormant yeast; at least in the homebrew scale.
This recipe I brewed in 2019 and my records show I kegged after 14 days.
10 days and going into a stainless steel keg would be okay, but I personally wouldn't bottle anything in less than 14 days (I don't like bottle bombs). When I bottle (which is not very often) I'm normally in the fermenter for 21-28 days. I normally keg after 14-21 days for an ale.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
I think it's about time to brew this one again.

A good work-around compromise might be to transfer, under pressure if able, just before your expected final gravity, say 5 or fewer points before FG. If slow fermentation is still ongoing when you transfer it'll go a long way to mitigating any bad effects from oxygenation and prevent any issues of yeast autolysis or off flavors resulting from extended contact with trub or settled solids. Contemporary belief is that autolysis is low risk on the home brew scale, whereas oxygenation and infections are very real possibilities when racking from a primary to a secondary fermentation. That said, several months aging of a Westvleteren clone might be worth considering it. Plus, if you cap the fermenter when fermentation has slowed to near completion you'll benefit from natural carbonation. A spunding valve is an inexpensive and desirable solution to the issue of carbonation.
 

rtstrider

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I brewed this on Friday and pitched the yeast at 330pm. It's been almost 4 full days now and the krausen is starting to drop. I fermented at 60F and went old school with the plastic bucket fermenter. I forgot how fast Notty is! Bumped up the temp to 62F this morning and will bump up 2F every 12 hours until it's 68F then it's going outside of the ferment fridge for a few days. Hoping to have this kegged up and cold conditioning/carbing this weekend. Would like to throw some gelatin in there and let it start clearing so it'll be ready for the FSU Notre Dame game. Will probably need a good bit of this brew during and after the game lol
 

Brooothru

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I brewed this on Friday and pitched the yeast at 330pm. It's been almost 4 full days now and the krausen is starting to drop. I fermented at 60F and went old school with the plastic bucket fermenter. I forgot how fast Notty is! Bumped up the temp to 62F this morning and will bump up 2F every 12 hours until it's 68F then it's going outside of the ferment fridge for a few days. Hoping to have this kegged up and cold conditioning/carbing this weekend. Would like to throw some gelatin in there and let it start clearing so it'll be ready for the FSU Notre Dame game. Will probably need a good bit of this brew during and after the game lol

Notre Dame will be a tough one. Hard times since the Glory Days (RIP, Bobby. I still treasure the pics of Bobby and my daughter, as well as the autographed football from the BCS Championship year). Jimbo didn't do anybody any favors, other than leaving. It's gonna be a long road back.

In the meantime, good luck with the beer. At the very least it'll ease the pain.
 

rtstrider

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This was ready for kegging exactly 10 days after brew day. 9 days it still had a touch of cleaning up that needed to be done. 10 days was perfect. My observations so far on this batch is that it is significantly better than last batch (about a year ago). If you go back and read my posts I stated my try at this was more like a pale ale. The difference on this batch and last batch is the water source. I also fermented with notty (rehydrated) at 60f this time. Last time I used filtered fridge water with campden and no other adjustments. Wanted to experiment with my city water. Beer was fine but not what it should be. Usually I use Reverse Osmosis water from the store. Well that’s exactly what I did this time and used the yellow balanced water profile from Bruin Water. Now this tastes like a blonde with some citrus notes and a little bit of yeast character. It’s a blonde ale with life! I plan on hitting this with gelatin in a day or two then letting it sit till Sunday kickoff. I’ll post some pics once I have a nice proper pour! I stand corrected on my previous review. Thanks for the recipe Biermuncher!
 

rtstrider

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I tapped the keg this morning. Mainly to blow out the crud that the gelatin settled out and to let the liquid lines/cobra tap cool down until this evening. Will take a pic of a proper pour in the glass this evening!
 

rtstrider

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Not much head as this really needs another week of cold conditioning but it’s being consumed this evening regardless! Here’s the promised pic
 

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rtstrider

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Now this has age on it. I have to say I cannot recommend drinking this beer young. It’s been in the keg for around 6 weeks now and it’s really hit it’s stride imo. Once the yeast dropped out this beer is right where it should be. Prior to this there was just way too much character (pulled a good bit of stone fruit from the yeast (apricot)) to call this a blonde ale. So cold conditioning, or filtering, is a must for my taste buds at least. Here is a picture of the brew now. From clarity standpoint it is VERY clear! Personally I really like where this beer is now. This will be a rebrew next year and I’ll definitely use a floating dip tube for the next go around. This is just six weeks in the keg with gelatin.
CC77B342-D5FF-4293-8FFE-F24C3A5B09BC.jpeg
 

HoboTurtle

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This seems to be an incredibly popular recipe, going to give it a try for my next brew. Curious what other yeasts and hops people have experimented with while using this as the base recipe. As this thread is almost 150 pages, I will openly admit I did not search for this answer first.
 

rtstrider

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This seems to be an incredibly popular recipe, going to give it a try for my next brew. Curious what other yeasts and hops people have experimented with while using this as the base recipe. As this thread is almost 150 pages, I will openly admit I did not search for this answer first.

I really feel like 34/70 would play nice with this recipe. It has a good bit less character than Nottingham, but, would have the "crisp" characteristics that shows after extended cold conditioning with Nottingham. Nottingham just gets in the way. This is a pretty busy grain bill for a blonde ale imo so I'd use a yeast that lets that come more out front. I'd also recommend 1007 fermented around 60f. If you're in a pinch and are dry yeast only then I'd say US-05 would work but it'd bring the hops out more than I'd like personally. A good middle ground would be 1272 fermented around 63 if you're wanting to bring a pinch more citrus to the recipe. It's rumored bry-97 is the dry form of 1272. Hopefully those suggestions help!

Bear in mind taste is extremely subjective too! There's many posts prior to this where this recipe is well enjoyed. The beauty of homebrewing is you can take these recipes and tweak it till you like it. Good luck!
 

bwible

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I really feel like 34/70 would play nice with this recipe. It has a good bit less character than Nottingham, but, would have the "crisp" characteristics that shows after extended cold conditioning with Nottingham. Nottingham just gets in the way. This is a pretty busy grain bill for a blonde ale imo so I'd use a yeast that lets that come more out front. I'd also recommend 1007 fermented around 60f. If you're in a pinch and are dry yeast only then I'd say US-05 would work but it'd bring the hops out more than I'd like personally. A good middle ground would be 1272 fermented around 63 if you're wanting to bring a pinch more citrus to the recipe. It's rumored bry-97 is the dry form of 1272. Hopefully those suggestions help!

Bear in mind taste is extremely subjective too! There's many posts prior to this where this recipe is well enjoyed. The beauty of homebrewing is you can take these recipes and tweak it till you like it. Good luck!
Good ol’ 1056?
 

bwible

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Maybe I could get some advise ??
I’ve made this beer a couple times in the past (3 gallons)
the first try was ok
The second time I ended up with more of a brighter citrus flavor from the hops that I loved and want again .....
I’m going to try this again tomorrow in another 3 gallon batch , using Brewers Friend this is what I’ve come up with
3.6 lb 2- row
.43 lb carapils
.27 lb crystal
.27 lb Vienna
Puts brew at an OG of 1.039 ( 4.2 ABV )
Hops schedule —
.12 oz centennial @ 55 min. (10% AA)
.20 oz centennial @ 15 min.
.20 oz cascade @ 15 min. (7.1 AA)
.25 oz cascade @ 5 min.
Puts IBU’s at 22
I changed the original hop schedule thinking more late additions would give me more of the bright citrusy flavor I’m looking for while still keeping some of the bitterness to balance , I’m not really wanting to dry hop if I can make late additions work...
I know water makes a difference but still being somewhat new to brewing I’m still trying to figure that out , I have used RO and Brewers Friend water calcs in the past but brewing small 3 gal. batches I’m never sure how much of what to use to get flavors dialed in ,,,, I’ve also used tap water with Camden tablets and brews seemed ok maybe a little Flat’ish , I’ve yet to send tap water in for a test so I’m not sure what’s in it but being in NM I would bet tap water is kinda hard .
Just tying to get this Centennial Blonde to a nice crisp, little more citrusy flavor ,,
Any suggestions ????
I also do 3 gallon batches and I have not had luck doing these tiny .12, .2, even .25 oz additions. I know the software puts the IBU at the correct number but there has never been any hop flavor in these kind of batches I’ve done. I’ve even tried different hop utililization models in the software. If you look at that recipe, the total is less than 1 ounce of hops for your entire 3 gallon batch. You know that’s not going to be right.

This may be a case where recipes don’t scale. .25 oz of late hops, that probably just gets blown out in fermentation.

I’m wanting to do 3 gallons of this myself but I’m not sure yet either. Too little hops and its washed out. Too much hops and you just have an APA. But I’m leaning toward more hops. Maybe even go with the same hops in the 5 gallon recipe.
 
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rtstrider

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Good ol’ 1056?

I've used 1056 and US-05 side by side. Can't tell the difference. I'm not the biggest fan of that strain. IF pushed I'd use slurry built up from Sierra Nevada Pale Ale first and then wlp001 if that was not available before using 1056/us-05. Sierra Nevada Pale and wlp001 are both worlds better than 1056/us-05 in my experience. 1056/us-05 just has an odd doughy flavor I don't care for. Seeing as this recipe is meant as a good, easy, recipe I didn't want to veer too far off from that notion.
 

bwible

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Maybe I could get some advise ??
I’ve made this beer a couple times in the past (3 gallons)
the first try was ok
The second time I ended up with more of a brighter citrus flavor from the hops that I loved and want again .....
I’m going to try this again tomorrow in another 3 gallon batch , using Brewers Friend this is what I’ve come up with
3.6 lb 2- row
.43 lb carapils
.27 lb crystal
.27 lb Vienna
Puts brew at an OG of 1.039 ( 4.2 ABV )
Hops schedule —
.12 oz centennial @ 55 min. (10% AA)
.20 oz centennial @ 15 min.
.20 oz cascade @ 15 min. (7.1 AA)
.25 oz cascade @ 5 min.
Puts IBU’s at 22
I changed the original hop schedule thinking more late additions would give me more of the bright citrusy flavor I’m looking for while still keeping some of the bitterness to balance , I’m not really wanting to dry hop if I can make late additions work...
I know water makes a difference but still being somewhat new to brewing I’m still trying to figure that out , I have used RO and Brewers Friend water calcs in the past but brewing small 3 gal. batches I’m never sure how much of what to use to get flavors dialed in ,,,, I’ve also used tap water with Camden tablets and brews seemed ok maybe a little Flat’ish , I’ve yet to send tap water in for a test so I’m not sure what’s in it but being in NM I would bet tap water is kinda hard .
Just tying to get this Centennial Blonde to a nice crisp, little more citrusy flavor ,,
Any suggestions ????

3 gallon batch problems : )

Here's what I might try. I don't have Crystal 10 from the original recipe, never seen it in my life. We have 20, 40, 60, 80, 120. Carapils should be about 3% of the recipe according to Breiss. I added a few gravity points because I don't want to use less than 1 oz of hops for the whole recipe. My AA% is of course also slightly different than the hops in the original recipe. I adjusted addition times, but my ibu is still a bit higher, at least what the software says. (Has not been my experience with these tiny additions) The original recipe has a bu:gu of .537 (21.5/40), this one is .611 (26.3/43). Again, at least according to software. A bit more, but I think 5 gallon to 3 gallon recipe conversions don't always scale exactly, especially some hop additions.

**Note, I do all my 3 gallon recipes as 3.5 gallons, collect 4 gallons to the kettle, boil down to 3.5, 3.5 into fermenter so that I actually get 3 gallons of finished beer at the end after losses.

This is probably the best I can do without going to .12 oz or .17 oz additions or other such silliness - which haven't worked for me in the past in 3 gallon recipes.

[Edit - I also adjust my water chemistry. But I have not included any of that here, as it is unique to each person. I typically add an ounce or 2 of acidulated malt to the recipe to adjust mash ph. And my water is very low in sulfates so I typically need to add gypsum - and more for hoppy beers.]

02 - Centennial Blonde
18-A Blonde Ale

Size: 3.5 gal
Efficiency: 80.0%
Attenuation: 75.0%
Calories: 143.32 kcal per 12.0 fl oz

Original Gravity: 1.043 (1.038 - 1.054)
Terminal Gravity: 1.011 (1.008 - 1.013)
Color: 4.31 SRM (3.0 - 6.0)
Alcohol: 4.24% (3.8% - 5.5%)
Bitterness: 26.3 (15.0 - 28.0)

Ingredients:
4.5 lb (82.8%) 2-Row Brewers Malt
.5 lb (9.2%) Vienna Malt
.25 lb (4.6%) Crystal Malt 20°L
3 oz (3.4%) Cara-Pils® Malt

.25 oz (25.0%) Centennial (9.9%) - 45 m
.25 oz (25.0%) Centennial (9.9%) - 25 m
.25 oz (25.0%) Cascade (6.4%) - 15 m
.25 oz (25.0%) Cascade (6.4%) - 1 m

1.0 ea Wyeast 1056 American Ale™

Results generated by BeerTools Pro 2.0.24
 
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bwible

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I've used 1056 and US-05 side by side. Can't tell the difference. I'm not the biggest fan of that strain. IF pushed I'd use slurry built up from Sierra Nevada Pale Ale first and then wlp001 if that was not available before using 1056/us-05. Sierra Nevada Pale and wlp001 are both worlds better than 1056/us-05 in my experience. 1056/us-05 just has an odd doughy flavor I don't care for. Seeing as this recipe is meant as a good, easy, recipe I didn't want to veer too far off from that notion.
I love 1056. Probably the strain I use the most of everything. I brew 5 or 6 beers out of the yeast every time I get a pack. I just did 2 with the pack Im using now, an Irish Red Ale and a Dry Stout. I split it into 2 starters and I'm about to do this blonde, followed by an APA and an IPA. That's be 5 out of this pack.
 
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hoppheadIPA

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Not sure about this but, what are people's thoughts on subbing out the cascade additions with cashmere? I'm thinking about doing that because it's what I have in the freezer. Plenty of centennial, but no cascade. I've made the original before, but I'm thinking cashmere would be pretty good. Thoughts?
 

beerfactory

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Brewed this today to the original recipe with one minor exception: added an extra 1/2 lb 2 row and 1/2 lb vienna. added an extra 3 grams of centennial bittering hop to try and balance out.

I did this because I know my efficiency sucks big time and I did not want to have to boil any DME.

Nailed my volumes and OG came out at 1.040. Cannot wait to try this beer!
 
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jadoiron

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Ive been tweaking a house ale recipe for a few months now and this is it. This is the recipe that will be a permanent fixture at my house. Ive brewed it twice, served the first 10 gallons to friends, families and curious on-lookers, and just finished the second 10 gallon batch with identical results.

Light and crisp. The IBUs are on the low side, but there is a nice sweet/spicy balance to the beer. The great fresh taste of a craft ale with an extremely clean finish. This reminds me of what a local craft brewery might come out of the gates with to win over a new market. Very drinkable with wide appeal. Ive yet to have anyone, even BMC drinkers not say its one of the best beers theyve tasted.period. The secret lies in the name. I moved through Northern Brewer, Nugget and Pearle hops, all in combination with Cascade. Even went with a strict Cascade hop bill, but was just a bit on the tart side for this lighter grain bill.

Once I matched up Centennial as the bittering hop and Cascade as a flavor/aroma hopthats when the magic happened.

This is also a simple, hard to screw up recipe. At just around 4%, this is a quaffer. Due to the lighter grain billthis is easily a beer that can go from grain to glass in 2 weeks (if you keg).

View attachment 3114


****10-Gallon Batch****
Batch Size: 11.00 gal
Boil Size: 13.69 gal
Estimated OG: 1.039 SG
Estimated Color: 3.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 21.6 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
14.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
1.25 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM)
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50%] (55 min)
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50%] (35 min)
0.50 oz Cascade [7.80%] (20 min)
0.50 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min)
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) (Hydrated)



****5 Gallon Batch****

Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.57 gal
Estimated OG: 1.040 SG
Estimated Color: 3.9 SRM
Estimated IBU: 21.5 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount
7.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
0.75 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM)
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (55 min)
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (35 min)
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (20 min)
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min)
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) (Hydrated)


Mash at 150 degrees for 60 minutes.
Can this be bottled rather than kegged?
 

ZGBrewer

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Did anyone try this with Lutra?

Or it's better to use W34/70/Diamond lager under pressure? I only have access to dry yeasts, so looking for the best option.
 

501irishred

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Can this be bottled rather than kegged?

Absolutely! Bottles or kegs, it’s a great recipe.

Did anyone try this with Lutra?

Or it's better to use W34/70/Diamond lager under pressure? I only have access to dry yeasts, so looking for the best option.

The original recipe calls for Nottingham dry yeast and is very good. I’ve also used us-05 and s-04 with success.
 

ZGBrewer

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Yeah, I have Notty as well, I just thought that since it's an "old" recipe, maybe better (crispier) results would be with any of these three :)
 
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wizdumb1

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I brewed this on Feb 28th and kegged on March 7th. We'll, slightly different. I used what I had on hand to use up some grains. Still on the new side so I didn't know what to expect.

9lb 2 row
1lb 11oz Cara pils
9oz Crystal 60
5oz Munich I
3.7oz Vienna

0.75oz Centennial 60min
And followed the rest of the hop schedule. 1 pack of Nottingham

OG was supposed to be 1.049 but hit 1.045. FG was 1.008

Still turned out great! It needs some time in the keg but I'm not sure I can keep my hands off it. My beers always taste the best right at the end of the keg. I just need to get some full kegs so I can leave the young beers to age.

Will be brewing the original next to compare.
20220310_163506.jpg
 

NitrogenWidget

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Yeah, I have Notty as well, I just thought that since it's an "old" recipe, maybe better (crispier) results would be with any of these three :)
I brewed with lutra. Came out great and people thought it was a lager. I fermented it outside in the sun during summer with a tarp over it. Was done in a day or two.
 

seilenos

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Brewed this with Imperial Yeast Loki A43 ... I wanted a fast turnaround to drop bright and was concerned that notty would take too long.

Brewed 2022-04-18.

Put in basement with no temp control. Ranged from 67 F to 71 F during active fermentation.
(Note for image below: iSpindle is not 100% calibrated ... I use it more to understand how fermentation is going.)

Started cold-crashing on 2022-05-03.
I ferment in plastic buckets and apply 1-2 psi CO2 via carb cap every 12 hours or so to prevent oxygen suck back.
Kegged 2022-05-05 when it got to 33 F

1/2 tsp gelatin prepped and added to keg just after packaging. Keg has floating dip tube.
Set to 35 psi for 24 hours then turn off CO2 and dial back regulator to below serving pressure.

Today, 2022-05-08, turn CO2 back on and adjust regulator. Beer is bright and tastes great.

OG 1.040
FG 1.005
ABV: 4.6%

SRM: 3.5
BH Efficiency: 80%
Attenuation: 87%

6 gal into fermenter

Amt Name Type
7 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain
12.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain
8.0 oz Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain
0.25 oz Centennial [10.70 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop
0.25 oz Centennial [10.70 %] - Boil 35.0 min Hop
0.25 oz Cascade [7.20 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop
0.25 oz Cascade [7.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop
1.0 pkg Loki (Imperial Yeast #A43) Yeast


Screen Shot 2022-05-08 at 2.22.52 PM.png
IMG_4026.jpeg
 
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Brooothru

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Brewed this with Imperial Yeast Loki A43 ... I wanted a fast turnaround to drop bright and was concerned that notty would take too long.

Brewed 2022-04-18.

Put in basement with no temp control. Ranged from 67 F to 71 F during active fermentation.
(Note for image below: iSpindle is not 100% calibrated ... I use it more to understand how fermentation is going.)

Started cold-crashing on 2022-05-03.
I ferment in plastic buckets and apply 1-2 psi CO2 via carb cap every 12 hours or so to prevent oxygen suck back.
Kegged 2022-05-05 when it got to 33 F

1/2 tsp gelatin prepped and added to keg just after packaging. Keg has floating dip tube.
Set to 35 psi for 24 hours then turn off CO2 and dial back regulator to below serving pressure.

Today, 2022-05-08, turn CO2 back on and adjust regulator. Beer is bright and tastes great.

OG 1.040
FG 1.005
ABV: 4.6%

SRM: 3.5
BH Efficiency: 80%
Attenuation: 87%

6 gal into fermenter

Amt Name Type
7 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain
12.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain
8.0 oz Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain
0.25 oz Centennial [10.70 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop
0.25 oz Centennial [10.70 %] - Boil 35.0 min Hop
0.25 oz Cascade [7.20 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop
0.25 oz Cascade [7.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop
1.0 pkg Loki (Imperial Yeast #A43) Yeast


View attachment 768319 View attachment 768320
That's some quick turnaround, and a very good looking beer. I've got a Belgian Strong Ale batch going with Lutra dry yeast. It dropped 37 points in the first 30 hours of active fermentation @ 68°F. It finished before I had a chance to spund it, and finished at 1.008.
 
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