Cant find this KegLand part anywhere?!?!?!

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Good Morning, I 1st saw this option for dryhopping in the Fermzilla here on this forum. I then went on a mission to find the parts. Its basically a plastic T fitting + a carbonation cap + and finally a 3/4" valve. It is made by Kegland and is listed on their website. However apparently they do not ship to the US. I have searched and searched and can not find these parts anywhere? Im hoping someone could point me in the right direction. Below is a link Thanks so much! Erik

 

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Update: I heard back from morebeer.com and they said they have the T piece and the carb cap. Kegland wont ship to the US. However I am at a complete dead end on the valve. Its easy to find the 3/4" stainless valve but for the life of me i cant get the thread adapter to fit. Im guessing from the lack of responses its not an easy answer. Still hopeful someone can help, Erik
 

RM-MN

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A competent machinist should be able to make any thread you need. You might not like the price nor the wait time but making the part should be easy.
 

shoreman

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Sometimes I see kegland stuff for sale on eBay
 
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Thanks guys...I checked ebay and it's the valve that cant be found. I can get the 3/4 stainless valve but the adapter from 3/4 standard pipe thread to soda bottle thread that's eluding me...
 

DPJ123

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Hey lurker
Thanks guys...I checked ebay and it's the valve that cant be found. I can get the 3/4 stainless valve but the adapter from 3/4 standard pipe thread to soda bottle thread that's eluding me...
Hey lurker, did you ever find a source for these?? The only place I've seen selling them is alliexpress, and I'm just not sure about going that route and waiting 3 months for it to ship here.
 
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Nope! I even emailed with Kegland and came to a complete dead end. So I bought some sue vide magnet weights. now after I oxginanate my wort and pitch yeast I Place each dry hop charge into a muslin bag with one magnet and the other magnet on the outside of the firmemnter. Then when it's time to dry hop I just drag that muslin bag down into the beer no oxygen and it works amazing it's actually the easiest solution ever!!!!
 

DPJ123

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Nope! I even emailed with Kegland and came to a complete dead end. So I bought some sue vide magnet weights. now after I oxginanate my wort and pitch yeast I Place each dry hop charge into a muslin bag with one magnet and the other magnet on the outside of the firmemnter. Then when it's time to dry hop I just drag that muslin bag down into the beer no oxygen and it works amazing it's actually the easiest solution ever!!!!
Thanks for the reply!
That's probably what I'll end up doing as well since the valves seem impossible to track down.
 

DuncB

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Magnets and bags are my way too, you can slide hop bag or other into beer, swish it around daily and then lift it out of the beer when the dry hop is done to drain and stop the odd flavours. ALso a good way to get the little bit of yeast that accumulates on the side of the fermenter off.

Says ball valve so not that much space to get hops past, would be better as butterfly , looks like a 3/4 inch BSP ball valve with an adapter on the fermenter end to make the thread a bit longer to fit the fermenter.
The threads are all the same so if pet bottle is 3/4 BSP then you are easy at any plumbing shop.
 

schmurf

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How does it work? Will hop pellets fall through the valve easily?

It is an interesting idea that probably could be adapted to other containers using more standard threads if needed.
I'll let you know in a couple of days when it will prove its use for the first time 🙂
 

apache_brew

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3/4” ball valve looks like it would be a pain. I’d try to come up with an adapter to use 1-1/2” tri clamp and go from there
 

DPJ123

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3/4” ball valve looks like it would be a pain. I’d try to come up with an adapter to use 1-1/2” tri clamp and go from there
It would be a piece of cake to drill out the fermzilla lid and install a TC bulkhead and go from there, but then you're looking at about $200 per fermenter just to dryhop. I think the appeal of the kegland set-up is the low price tag.
 

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I'll let you know in a couple of days when it will prove its use for the first time 🙂
Not a success, pellets got stuck pretty much immediately. Partly my own fault probably; pet bottle was still a bit starsan-wet, quite a lot of hops (+100 grams) and inexperience. However, it's quite a small passage and I don't think I'm to be blamed completly, even though with some more experience and trials I might work out a way for it to go somewhat smoother.
 

schmurf

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I'm sure that's a good enough solution many times.

Regarding the fermzilla solution I've since my failure been thinking of a tweak. I'm thinking of skipping the "totally closed" DH solution and instead do a variation where I use a bottle just as a funnel, cut it open, or even use a funnel instead of a bottle.

The procedure I'm thinking of:
- Use the valve and the tee-part as before.
- come dry hopping, attach co2 to tee-device, open valve while turning on co2, creating a bit of a barrier for o2.
- attach funnel to other end of tee-device and drop in pellets. With a open funnel it would be easier to handle stuck pellets.
- close valve and co2 when dh completed
 

apache_brew

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It would be a piece of cake to drill out the fermzilla lid and install a TC bulkhead and go from there, but then you're looking at about $200 per fermenter just to dryhop. I think the appeal of the kegland set-up is the low price tag.
More like $116 for a 1.5" TC setup... But who's counting? 😆 It can be done with a single gas post on top of the sight glass. (a sight glass isn't even necessary, a 6"-12" spool piece does the same thing, it just doesn't look cool) Just pressurize with a gas line, and then purge release after with a spare ball lock connector (or push down on the poppet with a nail). Plus, once you move onto a stainless steel fermenter, all the parts are transferable. I'd personally go with a 2" variance to lessen the likelihood even more of clogging the hops during the drop.

Weldless adapter $16 2021 1.5"/2'' SS304 Stainless Steel Weldless TriClamp Bulkhead Flange Adaptor | eBay

1.5" BFV $30 Homend 1.5" Sanitary Tri Clamp Butterfly Valve with Trigger Handle Silicone Seal | eBay

1.5" tri clamps & gaskets $20 Tri-Clamp Hinged 304 Stainless Steel with Silicone Gasket 1.5" (Qty 5) | eBay

1.5" gas post $15 1.5in Gas Lock Post Adapter Tri Clamp To Ball Connector Beer Brewing Accessory | eBay

1.5" sight glass $30 1.5'' Flow Sanitary Sight Glass Tri Clamp Ferrule Stainless Steel 304 | eBay

1.5" cap $5 1.5" 38mm OD Sanitary End Cap fits 1.5" Tri-Clamp with Ferrule Flange OD 50.5 MM | eBay
 

DPJ123

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More like $116 for a 1.5" TC setup... But who's counting? 😆 It can be done with a single gas post on top of the sight glass. (a sight glass isn't even necessary, a 6"-12" spool piece does the same thing, it just doesn't look cool) Just pressurize with a gas line, and then purge release after with a spare ball lock connector (or push down on the poppet with a nail). Plus, once you move onto a stainless steel fermenter, all the parts are transferable. I'd personally go with a 2" variance to lessen the likelihood even more of clogging the hops during the drop.

Weldless adapter $16 2021 1.5"/2'' SS304 Stainless Steel Weldless TriClamp Bulkhead Flange Adaptor | eBay

1.5" BFV $30 Homend 1.5" Sanitary Tri Clamp Butterfly Valve with Trigger Handle Silicone Seal | eBay

1.5" tri clamps & gaskets $20 Tri-Clamp Hinged 304 Stainless Steel with Silicone Gasket 1.5" (Qty 5) | eBay

1.5" gas post $15 1.5in Gas Lock Post Adapter Tri Clamp To Ball Connector Beer Brewing Accessory | eBay

1.5" sight glass $30 1.5'' Flow Sanitary Sight Glass Tri Clamp Ferrule Stainless Steel 304 | eBay

1.5" cap $5 1.5" 38mm OD Sanitary End Cap fits 1.5" Tri-Clamp with Ferrule Flange OD 50.5 MM | eBay
$116 still a far cry from about $16, but thanks for the info and links! Looks like ebay has been a bit of an underutilized source of hardware for me.
 

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This ball valve on Amazon looks similar to the Kegland ball valve (though the Kegland seems to have Female threads on both ends): Amazon.com: 3/4'' BSPDN20 Male and Female Brass Pipe Full Port Ball Valve: Home Improvement

I see this one in stock at my local Home Depot but the threads seem to be the same as NTP (Google tells me that IP = Iron Pipe which is interchangeable with NTP...and I expect in the US hardware stores are more likely to stock NTP items): Everbilt 3/4 in. Lead Free Brass Threaded FIP x FIP Ball Valve-116-2-34-EB - The Home Depot

I am not sold that I need to add such a device to my fermenter, but wasting my money on cheap gadgets that don't quite work out as well as I planned is kinda how I roll. ;)
 

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This ball valve on Amazon looks similar to the Kegland ball valve (though the Kegland seems to have Female threads on both ends): Amazon.com: 3/4'' BSPDN20 Male and Female Brass Pipe Full Port Ball Valve: Home Improvement

I see this one in stock at my local Home Depot but the threads seem to be the same as NTP (Google tells me that IP = Iron Pipe which is interchangeable with NTP...and I expect in the US hardware stores are more likely to stock NTP items): Everbilt 3/4 in. Lead Free Brass Threaded FIP x FIP Ball Valve-116-2-34-EB - The Home Depot

I am not sold that I need to add such a device to my fermenter, but wasting my money on cheap gadgets that don't quite work out as well as I planned is kinda how I roll. ;)
I was just reading the thread since it seemed interesting. DunC mentions a BSP valve but he is in New Zealand and I think their BSP threads are BSPP with the last P being parallel or sometimes called straight threads (same in England I think). That valve on Amazon you linked to is listed as BSPT with the T being tapered. US style threads are NPT which is also tapered and very close I think to BSPT. I have read that 1/2" and 3/4" may be compatible but I am not 100% certain. Mainly just wanted to mention that the Amazon valve says BSPT when you might want BSPP threads.
 

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Hey I got a potential solution. Not sure about the pressure rating, this is pretty low pressure right?
You need a bottle bushing. It has a spigot end which goes into a 1" schedule 40 socket. Use a 1" PVC coupling, then a 1" schedule 40 male adapter, which has a spigot for the coupling socket and the MIP threads, MIP same as NPT. It is 1" so you could use a 1" NPT SS valve female both sides. (FIP). Might be able to get everything in the same place except the bottle bushing. You could probably get the PVC local but I did notice by me that 1" isn't a normal size for big box stores. It's the same set of parts both sides of the valve.
 

DuncB

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Hey I got a potential solution. Not sure about the pressure rating, this is pretty low pressure right?
You need a bottle bushing. It has a spigot end which goes into a 1" schedule 40 socket. Use a 1" PVC coupling, then a 1" schedule 40 male adapter, which has a spigot for the coupling socket and the MIP threads, MIP same as NPT. It is 1" so you could use a 1" NPT SS valve female both sides. (FIP). Might be able to get everything in the same place except the bottle bushing. You could probably get the PVC local but I did notice by me that 1" isn't a normal size for big box stores. It's the same set of parts both sides of the valve.
I see that the bottle bushing has some writing on the top and the word pressure.

Wonder whether this would be useful


I also don't see how that bottle bushing would stay on the bottle it doesn't seem to have a thread. But maybe it just jams on.
 

DuncB

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There must be a 3 d print solution to this issue available as well. Might be worth asking on a 3d print forum.
 

DuncB

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Looks like this group are 3d printing the female bit just need them to fiddle with the design and then it could fit on the kegland t piece so that it had a female on both ends.

They also have a bottle joiner.
 

DPJ123

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If anyone is still interested in this dry-hopping set-up, williamsbrewing got some of those valves in! They'll sell out quick I'm sure.
Plus these dudes are legit. They fixed a recent ordering snafu up that I had with them VERY nicely. Excellent customer service.
 

DuncB

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Not a success, pellets got stuck pretty much immediately. Partly my own fault probably; pet bottle was still a bit starsan-wet, quite a lot of hops (+100 grams) and inexperience. However, it's quite a small passage and I don't think I'm to be blamed completly, even though with some more experience and trials I might work out a way for it to go somewhat smoother.
Well based on @schmurf experience I won't be rushing to buy one of those valves.
 

Wolffie

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Good Morning, I 1st saw this option for dryhopping in the Fermzilla here on this forum. I then went on a mission to find the parts. Its basically a plastic T fitting + a carbonation cap + and finally a 3/4" valve. It is made by Kegland and is listed on their website. However apparently they do not ship to the US. I have searched and searched and can not find these parts anywhere? Im hoping someone could point me in the right direction. Below is a link Thanks so much! Erik

Fermzilla Dry Hop Valve (williamsbrewing.com)
This is what I just received today check it out
They sell all the connecting parts EXCEPT SODA BOTTLE LOL
 
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You guys are awesome! I was so amped on getting this set up when I origionally posted and thought it was going to be a game changer! Then I tried the magnet solution and am actually loving it! Its so easy and definitively O2free. I did lose a bag on my last brew trying to poull the hop bag out of the beer but I think its pretty fool proof. I feel like I should get this part though just outta courosity! Thasnk again guys for your help and follow through! E
 

DuncB

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@Lurker
I use a ferrous magnet vacuum sealed for inside the fermenter. I sort of stitched a little pocket for the vac sealed magnet in the side of the bag. Then hops in the bag and cable tied shut.
Use an old harddrive magnet on the outside of the vessel and this way you have magnet, vessel wall, bit of bag and ferrous magnet vac sealed then the hops in bag.

You get a really good contact with the magnet this way, otherwise it's a bit fiddly and you can get hops between the magnets reducing the attraction.
I did drop a bag when I just used metal inside and the ferrous magnet on the outside, just couldn't cope with the weight.
 
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Great idea...I took the lazy mans way with the sued vied weights but it works ok. Not always for getting the bags out of beer but for getting them in on schedule its great. The fermzilla continues to make my life alot easier than glass carboys! Cheers, E
 

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Sorry to derail thread. But what the difference between using the OP method VS the jar on the bottom of firmzilla? You can purge most the O2 with CO2 and dryhop from the bottom.... Just wondering.
 
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2 different fermentors. The all Rounder doesn't have the jar on bottom only their conical one does.
 
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