Going on a fishing trip with my step-father and father-in-law and would like to take some beer with. Beer has been sitting undisturbed for weeks and is force carbonated. Can I transfer it to another keg and to make sure it is clear travel ready?
Yep! And it sounds sort of complicated, but it's not at all. It'll make sense once you hook up the two black quick-disconnects with some beer line. And that's all you need- those two QDs and a length of beerline.Yes. What you do is create a jumper. Connect two ball lock OUT connectors with about 6' of line. Once you have that made, purge the receiving keg with co2, connect the kegs together, and then slowly let the gas out of the receiving keg. It'll pull the beer into the keg for you. You can also just pus it across with a tank, but you still want to make sure there is no plain air in there.
As the transfer completes, you'll notice that you might start sucking up gunk from the bottom of the settled keg. Just disconnect the jumper at this point and you're done.
Oh, a couple of things I forgot to mention. Purge the first keg and reset to about 2-3 psi or just enough to push the beer. That will reduce any foaming.EXCELLENT! Thank you for the quick responses....I had seen a bunch of posts about transferring, but it was all PRE-Carbination.
No, it should work. Did you keep pulling the pressure relief valve on the receiving keg? If there is equal pressure between the kegs, or more pressure in the receiving keg, the beer will stop flowing. It goes from higher pressure to lower pressure.So, I tried this for the first time yesterday and it did not work.
I had only a small amount to transfer - probably less than 1/2 gallon.
Could that be the issue? I will try again today
Hi Yoop-No, it should work. Did you keep pulling the pressure relief valve on the receiving keg? If there is equal pressure between the kegs, or more pressure in the receiving keg, the beer will stop flowing. It goes from higher pressure to lower pressure.
ON the "old" keg. You can set it at 2 psi to start, and turn it up until the beer flows (2 psi is enough for my system, but it probably depends on the length of your "jumper cable"). Once the beer starts flowing, you keep pulling the pressure relief valve on the receiving keg. To stop, turn off the gas and take off the jumper cable.Hi Yoop-
thanks for the response. Yes, I did pull the receiving keg's pressure valve slowly, until I bled it dry. The movement was just a bit into beer line but not "far" enough to get into receiving keg.
I then bled/-filled C02 & tried two more times.
Last question: is the Co2 line on or off (and which keg, if ON) during this process?
I have no idea about the co2 cartridges. I have some that I bought ages ago from AHS, and I just use those. Sorry!Well I did this yesterday and it worked great. I was worried about foaming, but I really didn't get any. The transferring process took a lot longer than I thought it wood though. I think it took around 15 minutes to push from one keg to another, but I was going at around 2 psi to avoid foaming. I had to look inside of the keg to see what was happening, so there may have been a bit of oxygen that got in, but it's all good. The beer tastes great (BM's Cream of 3 Crops) and I think the family is going to love it at the beach!
Also a bit Off topic, but yoop with your portable keg Co2 charger, have you ever used the Crossman Co2 cartridges from WalMart? I'm a bit worried that they have some sort of oil in them b/c I could smell a bit when I sprayed some Co2 on my hand. I know they say they're not Food Grade, but do you really think this is a big problem?
Or, do you think that oil smell could be b/c my Portable Keg Co2 Charger is new and that's some sort of lube from the manufacturing process?
Thanks for all the great info guys and gals.
foam. foam EVERYWHERE. I tried that before finding this thread. giving keg foamed out and all over the place.Sorry for jacking the original thread but if you try and rack a carb beer though a cane will anything go wrong besides having to re-carb a bit?