Can I run two elements in the boil kettle?

[dpalme]

I'm curious if anyone else is running multiple elements in their boil kettle?

I was thinking about running two in order to get the water up to boil faster, but I'm also worried about overload and overcooking the wort too.

Ideas or suggestions?

This is for a brand new build so equipment is not a factor here, I can do whatever I need to do.

 

[rgauthier20420]

I think it most depends on batch size and available voltage (120/240). If your doing 15 gallons or below, I think a regular 5500W element will be more than enough. Possibly even for more volume. But this require 240V.

If you've only got 120V, since you almost need to do 2 element because of the max wattage you can run on the line. I've got 2 1500W LD elements in my BK running off of seperate 120V breakers and lines for instance.

It largely depends on what you've got a how much you plan on brewing.

 

[mswebb]

Multiple elements in a single pot is fine. Just make sure your are running ultra-low-watt-density elements in your boil kettle to avoid scorching.

 

[Durhamite]

Basically it comes down to amperage.

Are you using a 110 or 220v outlet? And once you figure that out, how many amps do you get at that outlet? Once you have your volts and amps, you can decide how many watts your element(s) can be.

If you are running off of standard 110v outlets, you'll likely want to keep the load at or under 80% of your maximum amperage rating for that outlet. Most of the time, you'll have multiple 110v outlets "linked" together under a single breaker. This is why you dont want to load a single outlet up to 100%.

However if you're using a dryer outlet (220v), those typically have a dedicated breaker for each outlet. You can load this up to 100% of the rating.

For example, in my HERMS system, I have two elements (one for BK, one for HLT), but can only run one at a time. They are connected to a 30A 220v dryer outlet. Each of my elements (5500w) pulls about 23W if I remember correctly. Then I have to factor in my pumps, panel lights, fans, etc. The lights and fans are minimal, but they're still a factor to consider.

**I am not an electrician, and you should have someone verify my advice. I am not responsible if you burn your house down or worse. I have just done a crapload of research on this as I built my own HERMS system about 2 years ago, and consulted with many electrical engineers and an electrician.**

 

[wilceaser]

I am currently using 2 1500w 120v heaters in my kettle. I run each one on its own 20amp circuit no problem.

 

[dpalme]

This is for an entirely new build, so I can run 110 or 220, I have no limitations at this point.

 

[kal]

As others have stated, you can run as many element as you like as long as you stay under the current limits of the circuit you're using.

You will not overload/overcook the wort, but with a lot of power you may have a boil that is too vigorous causing too much boil off. There is no real harm in this other than the fact that you'll need to start with more wort/larger kettle.

IMHO, use up to 4500W for 5 gallons of finished product, 5500W for up to 10-15, or even 20 gallons. 20 gallons is about the tipping point where people consider going with more than 5500W. You can still do it with 5500W, it's just that it takes longer to heat. 9000-11000W is enough for 1-2 bbl (31-62 gallons) and possibly even 3 bbl if you use a chimney/insulate/etc. At the upper end people will sometimes add even more power as at those sizes, you're probably brewing commercially and when brewing commercially, time is money.

Kal

 

[ebstauffer]

However if you're using a dryer outlet (220v), those typically have a dedicated breaker for each outlet. You can load this up to 100% of the rating.

Might want to give this a read:

http://w3.usa.siemens.com/us/SiteCollectionDocuments/LVTB-RCIRB-0711(lo-res).pdf

I'd be hesitant to run anything at 100% load.

 

[ebstauffer]

#Kal said:

IMHO, use up to 4500W for 5 gallons of finished product, 5500W for up to 10-15, or even 20 gallons.

I have two 5500W ulwd (Camco 02962/02963) elements in my BK, each on it's own 30A GFCI breaker (about 75% of rated load). It's a bit of an investment but you dont get many fnck ups with electricity. Both elements are on continuously until it reaches a boil then I switch one off and use a PWM circuit to control the remaining. For me it was about reducing my brewday time. As Kal said, you need some sort of PWM or ssrv circuit to control the remaining 'on' element after it reaches a boil otherwise you will have a much too vigorous boil.

 

[jeffmeh]

Might want to give this a read:

http://w3.usa.siemens.com/us/SiteCollectionDocuments/LVTB-RCIRB-0711(lo-res).pdf

I'd be hesitant to run anything at 100% load.

I scanned the article, and it basically says that one should provide for 125% of the continuous (3 hours) load plus 100% of the non-continuous load. Heating elements switched by SSRs are non-continuous loads, so I wouldn't hesitate to go up the rating of a breaker on a dedicated circuit.

 

[ebstauffer]

My bad. For some reason I thought you were running the elements balls out in the BK.