Can I improve the color and taste of my Coopers kit by adding Brewtan B and Ascorbic Acid?

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AdjunctBrewer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2024
Messages
92
Reaction score
86
Location
Five Sided Building
Can I improve the color and taste of my Coopers kit (Innkeepers Daughter Sparkling Ale) by adding Brewtan B and Ascorbic Acid? Probably will add ascorbic acid also at bottling. Might also try a Whirlfloc but not sure those are compatible with pre-hopped kits.
 
Perhaps the pre-hopped worts are already damaged (oxidation/heat) to the point that adding those finings won't be of any help. Although one would think that gallotannins would already be a part of the lme/dme production process. The same with whirlfloc but probably not so much the ascorbic acid.
 
Perhaps the pre-hopped worts are already damaged (oxidation/heat) to the point that adding those finings won't be of any help. Although one would think that gallotannins would already be a part of the lme/dme production process. The same with whirlfloc but probably not so much the ascorbic acid.
I think your "already damaged" thought is correct. I would think of oxidation like rust. If you take steps ahead of time, you can prevent the rusting, but once it has occurred you cannot just reverse the damage.

I am not 100% sure what causes the oxidation with LME. LME will darken with age in the package and I doubt there is much oxygen present. I would note that while oxygen is a strong oxidizer, oxidation can occur without the presence of oxygen.

One definition: "Oxidation is a chemical process. It is defined as a process that occurs when atoms or groups of atoms lose electrons. Another way to define oxidation is when a chemical species gains oxygen or loses hydrogen. When these events occur, oxidation takes place."

It could also be that the darkening is something else, such as Maillard reactions.
 
I think your "already damaged" thought is correct. I would think of oxidation like rust. If you take steps ahead of time, you can prevent the rusting, but once it has occurred you cannot just reverse the damage.

I am not 100% sure what causes the oxidation with LME. LME will darken with age in the package and I doubt there is much oxygen present. I would note that while oxygen is a strong oxidizer, oxidation can occur without the presence of oxygen.

One definition: "Oxidation is a chemical process. It is defined as a process that occurs when atoms or groups of atoms lose electrons. Another way to define oxidation is when a chemical species gains oxygen or loses hydrogen. When these events occur, oxidation takes place."

It could also be that the darkening is something else, such as Maillard reactions.
i disagree.

prehopped wort extract is not always already damaged. prehopped wort has a very bad rep around here. due to low turnover rate and long shelf storage.

in country's like the uk and aus there is higher turn over and less risk of old warm stored cans. coopers diybeer offers direct to customer and is always fresh IMO. i never got a stale can from them.

a fresh can of coopers will make good beer.

a few things tho:
dont boil it its already done for you just reconstitute it. ascorbic and brewtan will do nothing for your kit,

the best way to improve (change) color in any beer is steep specialty grains.
im not sure what you mean by improve the color do you mean make it darker or lighter or clearer?

tannins are added for wine not beer
for taste improvement try the following:
to make good kit beer follow these rules:

use spring water not tap (you could prolly use distilled also since lme has plenty of nutrients and minerals already.)
use better yeast . either so5 or bry 97 or some other very clean ale yeast.
MOST importnat IMO is temperature control dont ferment anything over 68 degrees. you will be safer. (maybe 70 highest)
brew to 4 or 5 never 6 gallons.
add hop tea for both bittering and flavor/aroma. 1/2 oz of aroma hops steeped in 170 degrees for 10 mins. works well you can change the amoutn or the time in order to change the hoppiness.

Dont use pure sugar unless you are doing the lager or pilsner kit. those can handle the dryness of sugar but not a kilo thats too much maybe 1 lb at most for 5 gallons.

i almost always add brewers crystals or brew booster or some other maltodextrine containting mix to soften up the mouthfeel. or just MD and sugar 50/50 mix.
if making an ale porter or stout ( ale kits are usually not good IMO) add some extra DME for body. theres a lot of threads on making kits good. homebrewforumuk.com has a whole forum dedicated to kit brewing.
these steps will add flavor in the form of hop tea and steeped grains and body from either more dme less sugar or Maltodextrins.
it took me a long time to figure this out.
good luck
 
I've been using the LODO "trifecta": Brewtan B + ascorbic + metabisulfite, with good results. I add it to the mash but I don't see why you couldn't add it to the boil. I also add 10ppm each of AA and meta at bottling. I have noticed my bottled beers staying fresh longer.

If your pre-hopped wort has some oxidation, it won't correct that, of course. But it could reduce further damage.
 
I've been using the LODO "trifecta": Brewtan B + ascorbic + metabisulfite, with good results. I add it to the mash but I don't see why you couldn't add it to the boil. I also add 10ppm each of AA and meta at bottling. I have noticed my bottled beers staying fresh longer.

If your pre-hopped wort has some oxidation, it won't correct that, of course. But it could reduce further damage.
the problem with that is that you shouldnt boil kits. it alters the ibus and the color and the flavor. they arent meant to be boiled.
 

MIX​

1. Mix can contents with 2 litres of water. Add recommended fermentables.

2. Top up FV with cold water to the 20 litre mark, mix thoroughly with plastic spoon and check temperature is between 21°C - 27°C (70°F-80°F).

3. Top up to 23 litres with hot/cold water in order to achieve 21°C - 27°C. Try to get as close as possible to the lower end of the recommended temperature range.

coopers kits are no-boil kits.
 
i disagree.

prehopped wort extract is not always already damaged.
All the talking past each other can be avoided simply by looking at the packing date on the can. Are they all old? No, by definition if they are still canning prehopped extract then some are very fresh. Are they all fresh? No, of course not. There are cans all over the world sitting on a shelf in a warehouse, in a store, in someone's basement. For how long? None of us know.
 
Back
Top