Can a boil kettle temp probe be mounted in a tri-clamp tee?

[Vintage Iron]

I just recently converted from propane burner to a 220V tri-clamp mounted element in the boil kettle. While this is a fantastic set up, it does bring up one problem.

My boil kettle has two tri-clamp fittings on it. The last time I brewed, we had the 220V element in one tri-clamp, and the pt100 temp probe for the boil controller mounted in the other tri-clamp fitting. The problem with this set up is that we had to use a racking cane to move the cooled wort from the boil kettle to the fermenter because there wasn't an empty tri-clamp fitting to mount a valve on, so here's a question...

Is it possible to use a tri-clamp "TEE" on the kettle so that I can put the temp probe AND a dump valve on the same kettle port instead of drilling a "weldless" temp probe into the side of the kettle? Here's the tee I'm thinking of using:

https://www.morebeer.com/products/stainless-triclamp-15-tee.html

Would this work ok to keep boil temps consistent?

 

[haydensitmonchai88]

Cant see why not My setup is similar just a normal tee with a ball valve and a quick dissconect rtd probe in the top. Im always recirculating so theirs all the wort goes through the tee over the boil/steep ect. You could just get a weldless thermowell also chuck one in bout 6 inches off the bottom of ya kettle. Just be sure to recirculate to get even temp reading. Thats just my 2 cents tho theirs million and one ways to do it tho mate

Happy brewing

 

[Vintage Iron]

Cant see why not My setup is similar just a normal tee with a ball valve and a quick dissconect rtd probe in the top. Im always recirculating so theirs all the wort goes through the tee over the boil/steep ect. You could just get a weldless thermowell also chuck one in bout 6 inches off the bottom of ya kettle. Just be sure to recirculate to get even temp reading. Thats just my 2 cents tho theirs million and one ways to do it tho mate

Happy brewing

Thanks for the quick reply. This isn't for the mash part of the process, but is for the boil, so there is no recirculation. That's kind of why I'm asking because I don't know if the temp in that tee will be consistent enough to regulate the boil with nothing moving the wort around.

 

[haydensitmonchai88]

Ah i get ya you should probs have wort flowing over it the whole time to get even readings. you could always have the pump going during the duration of the boil. then back into to the top of the kettle to keep even temp this is what i do. I just chuck my return hose in my hop spider catches any small grains and helps the hops move around more in the spider. But yeah i probs wouldnt go that route unless you are planing on resuscitating the wort during the boil

 

[Vale71]

I don't really see why you'd need a temp probe "to keep boil temps consistent"? Unless you're boiling in a pressure cooker boil temp will be kept consistent by your local atmospheric pressure. IMHO there's really no need to monitor temperature during boil either than for cosmetic reasons. Also agree with the previous poster that basically placing the probe externally to the kettle, like you would be doing with your tee setup, will probably not give accurate readings.

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks for the quick reply. This isn't for the mash part of the process, but is for the boil, so there is no recirculation. That's kind of why I'm asking because I don't know if the temp in that tee will be consistent enough to regulate the boil with nothing moving the wort around.

Boiling happens at a fixed temp, that can vary with altitude (lower at higher altitudes.) When boiling you want your PID in manual mode, and then you set the power level for the boil vigor you want. The probe location doesn't matter in the BK, but you have to have it because the PID will refuse to operate without it.

Brew on

 

[Vale71]

In that case you don't actually need the probe in the kettle, so why go to all the trouble of actually installing it in the kettle?

 

[Vintage Iron]

In that case you don't actually need the probe in the kettle, so why go to all the trouble of actually installing it in the kettle?

Yes, so that is the point of this thread for those who have experience with this set up: Does the temp probe need to be mounted in the boil kettle specifically, or can it be mounted in a tee connected to a lower tri-clamp fitting on the kettle?

Thanks for all of the thoughts so far!

 

[augiedoggy]

Thanks for the quick reply. This isn't for the mash part of the process, but is for the boil, so there is no recirculation. That's kind of why I'm asking because I don't know if the temp in that tee will be consistent enough to regulate the boil with nothing moving the wort around.

the temp probe doesnt do anything during a boil... your either using manual duty cycle for a smooth consistent controlled boil or have the temp set above 212 to allow the element to stay on... otherwise the boil will keep starting and stopping. thats what Vale71 is trying to tell you... you can leave the probe out sitting on the counter if you want as long as its plugged into the controller.
The temp probe is for holding certain temps and controlling those temps. when you have a larger heating element like a 5500w element for say 10 gallons or wort, you want a temp controller with manual duty cycle mode for the actual boil. this pulses the element on and off at whatever power setting you tell it. for example 70% allows the element to be on for 70% of the cycle time... this essentially allows the element to put out 70% power for a strong but not too crazy smooth boil. when in this mode it does not use the probe. if you dont use the manual mode for the boil your going to boil the crap out of the wort and have a high boil off rate you cant control. You also need to set the temp to something like 213 (or leave it in the tee where it will be reading a lower than real temp) so it doesnt turn on and off for periods of time starting and stopping your boil.

Also a probe in a tee will not give accurate temps unless the liquid is circulating through it or the tip of the probe extends all the way into the kettle. I have found this out first hand.

 

[Vale71]

If it's a dedicated controller (dedicated to wort boiling, that is) you actually don't even need an expensive probe. If the only issue is that the PID will take exception to no probe being connected and refuse to perform its function all you'll need is a 100 Ohm resistor wired directly to the probe terminals and the PID will happily function while all the time displaying a fictitious fixed temperature of 0°C.

 

[tmendick]

To answer the question, there is no reason this wouldn't work.
However as the above posts say, you really shouldn't need it assuming you would only use this probe to monitor boiling. What you could do is get a thrumometer from Blichmann, and put that inline between the valve and your fermenter.

I have 2 temp probes that move liquid around my boil kettle (1.) on the "out" port of my pump so I can monitor temp during the chill/whirlpool (and recirculating mash as I BIAB), (2.) on the out port of my chiller so I know what temp is coming out if I decide to just single pass the chiller.

 

[augiedoggy]

they make longer tri clamp mount thermowells that would go all the way through the tee into the kettle. I just bought one for better temp reading on my 3bbl mashtun

I bought this,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boiler-Thermometer-Adapter-Thermowell-Length-L55-200mm-1-2-NPT-Female-Adapter/273333721570?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=572692770264&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

to go with this..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Stainless-steel-PT100-Temperature-Sensor-With-2m-Cable-Wires-L50-300mm/273678143727?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=573192823118&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

even though I could have just mounted it in something like this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HFS-R-1-5-...m3f8b641235:g:e20AAOSwSBhbxTU~&frcectupt=true

the issue I had was hitting the probe when mashing in with the paddle and cracking the base.

 

[Vintage Iron]

Thanks for all of the thoughts here. You have all been a tremendous help.

I didn't realize the boil control function doesn't actually use the measured temp of the wort. That seems odd to me, because during the boil, the controller is set to a target temp, and if that temp turned out to be boiling too vigorously, turning the set temp down a few degrees would fix it. It all seemed connected to the temp it was reading in the kettle, but maybe that was just in my head.

It looks like a test-boil (water) is my next step, to test what happens when leaving the temp probe connected to the controller, but sitting on the table instead of mounted in the kettle.

Thanks again...

 

[augiedoggy]

Thanks for all of the thoughts here. You have all been a tremendous help.

I didn't realize the boil control function doesn't actually use the measured temp of the wort. That seems odd to me, because during the boil, the controller is set to a target temp, and if that temp turned out to be boiling too vigorously, turning the set temp down a few degrees would fix it. It all seemed connected to the temp it was reading in the kettle, but maybe that was just in my head.

It looks like a test-boil (water) is my next step, to test what happens when leaving the temp probe connected to the controller, but sitting on the table instead of mounted in the kettle.

Thanks again...

liquid boils at a set temp which varies by location due to atmospheric pressure , altitude bla bla bla... but the point is it boils only when reaching the boiling point in that area and I get what your saying but the truth is the system does not reach fast enough or control the temp quick enough to maintain a steady boil automatically via temp control. simply put you can only get a steady boil off rate and consistent even boil if you use manual mode to evenly limit the power output or simply disable the controller by setting the temp higher than boiling point. otherwise it will turn on and off and result in a inconsistent boil which will drive you nuts.
.