calling out to the wood workers...

[Redpappy]

I use pallets for my tables (that I have built). The first one i used an epoxy, so not much of an issue. this one, i am thinking of just using paint, so needing some advise on.

Discretion of pallet: is is built with 3/4 plywood. with many nails. 2X4 for the underneath. Total of 3, one on each end and one in the center.

4 2x4 used for legs, no other support between legs.

I screwed in 2x4 on the corners for the legs, from the sides, and as well as the top.

What I would like to do is to have a nice smooth surface. I believe I will be able to us a punch and knock the nails down below the wood. The screws that i used are below the top surfaces by 1/8 inch. Questions as follows:

1. What would be best to fill in the the cracks, screws, and nails?
2. If unable to drive the nails down, will 2 coats of paint work?

Usage of table is for milling my grains/ weighing on grains. I plan on keeping this table as simple as possible, but may end up cutting a hold for my mill, attaching a moter and gears in the long future. i believe dimension is 28x48. but can be wrong,

 

[bjhbrew]

I’ll take a stab at answering this one... first off it all comes down to your expectations; getting a perfectly smooth surface may not be feasible depending on the quality and condition of the base materials. My key points would be:

1. use a “wood filler” from one of the big box stores. Make sure it is easily sandable and expect to fill the deeper recesses in 2 or 3 lighter applications. On the final fill apply it above the surrounding surface so that it has to be sanded flush.
2. prime with sandable primer. This one is really key in my opinion for getting a smooth finish. Water based primers are not sandable in my experience; they will work to seal the wood but will add to the brush or roller marks later on if you can’t sand it. I go straight for the shellac primer which powders up nicely when you sand it leaving a perfectly smooth substrate for paint. Of course you need a space with adequate ventilation as it is incredibly fumey!
3. Paint with topcoat of your choosing. If brushing or rolling the quality of the paint really determines how well it will lay down. Cheap latex paint will look about as good as it costs but there are good quality furniture paints in water base now. Another consideration for water based is that the latex paints will always feel a bit gummy and if you leave anything on the surface too long it’ll kind of stick and leave a mark when you remove it no matter how long it has dried

Well that’s about all I know. Good luck with your project, a dedicated table for milling sounds like a great idea!

 

[day_trippr]

Can you post some pictures of this work in progress?
I've never seen a plywood pallet, pretty much everything I've see is rough sawn white oak or equivalent...

Cheers!

 

[Redpappy]

Here’s my table, usable right now, but want to finish it up. The pallet that I am using I got from work, I’m a printing press operator. They were used to bring in rolls of paper.

 

[day_trippr]

Ok, if you're really wanting a wood look you might consider laminating veneer over the sides and then top...

Cheers!

 

[jrgtr42]

I have something similar to mine. I'm considering putting a layer of diamond plate over the top.

 

[Gruel]

I've seen bar tops finished with a thick clear coating. I know it can be done with epoxy, but that of course will give off horrible fumes. Is there a water based polyurethane that the OP could pour on in a relatively thick (1/8") layer, after taping a dam all around the top surface? I guess it wouldn't need to be clear. That would fill in all holes in one go, and create a nice sanitary surface. What about this stuff, made for floors: Varathane Ultra Thick Floor Finish Polyurethane - Water Based ?

 

[marc1]

I covered some of my brew room tables with large porcelain floor tiles

 

[ChiknNutz]

I've done quite a few tables with epoxy, many of the so-called "bar top epoxies" give off very little in the way of fumes. It is not inexpensive, typically $75 to $100 per gallon and a medium sized table may need a couple gallons. To fill small cracks and imperfections, CA glue is great for that. I like FastCap 2P-10, there are others. Depends on the level of effort you want to go thru and the end result you are looking for.

 

[etk29321]

I’d just fill with wood filler, sand, and paint it once and be done with it. Pine plywood is just not worth the trouble and expensive of an epoxy coat. You’ll never sand that kind of plywood smooth enough for a really finished look - but you can get it looking prettier and the paint will help it’s durability too should some liquid spill on it.

now... if you had one of those white oak pallets... that’s a different story. I’ve gotten really pretty wood out of a pallet after running it through the planer once.

 

[Redpappy]

I’d just fill with wood filler, sand, and paint it once and be done with it. Pine plywood is just not worth the trouble and expensive of an epoxy coat. You’ll never sand that kind of plywood smooth enough for a really finished look - but you can get it looking prettier and the paint will help it’s durability too should some liquid spill on it.

now... if you had one of those white oak pallets... that’s a different story. I’ve gotten really pretty wood out of a pallet after running it through the planer once.

Why do you think that epoxy would be a waste? On this table I plan on paint, but curious on why?

what does epoxy look like, well, this is one way.... Is there flaws, yes, because some how, not surem a bug landed on it..... puzzling.

 

[Redpappy]

With this table, I am thinking white, gray coloration... trying to go as cheap as possible..lol... honestly, so far everything that have done in my brew room has been using left over items, except for my wash area(Building brew house in basement ( long term build) and would love opinions.).
I would have to say theme is a mix of whit, gray, and wood look. I plan on putting a clear coat on my sink cabinets.
This table is going to be used for my grains! Such as milling, weighing. So there will be not much liquid put on the table.

 

[etk29321]

Why do you think that epoxy would be a waste? On this table I plan on paint, but curious on why?

what does epoxy look like, well, this is one way.... Is there flaws, yes, because some how, not surem a bug landed on it..... puzzling.

View attachment 692870

That looks like a roll on epoxy finish? Like garage floor coating? That’s not a bad idea. I’d go with that.

I was referring to the bar top poured epoxy mentioned earlier in the thread where you could spend $100’s to put a crystal clear coat on plywood. That would be a waste in my mind.

 

[LittleRiver]

... this one, i am thinking of just using paint...What I would like to do is to have a nice smooth surface...

If you go the paint route, you can fill the holes with Bondo. It'll be harder and more firmly attached than wood filler. The problem with paint is that it's thin and soft, the surface will easily be scuffed and scratched.

For a hard & durable surface for a work table like this, a laminate (a.k.a. Formica) covering is ideal. Installation is easy, just cut it over sized, apply contact cement to both surfaces, press on the laminate, and trim the edges with a hand router & trim bit.

 

[Redpappy]

That looks like a roll on epoxy finish? Like garage floor coating? That’s not a bad idea. I’d go with that.

I was referring to the bar top poured epoxy mentioned earlier in the thread where you could spend $100’s to put a crystal clear coat on plywood. That would be a waste in my mind.

It was what left over from doing my counter tops at my old house. It is a poured epoxy.

 

[Redpappy]

If you go the paint route, you can fill the holes with Bondo. It'll be harder and more firmly attached than wood filler. The problem with paint is that it's thin and soft, the surface will easily be scuffed and scratched.

For a hard & durable surface for a work table like this, a laminate (a.k.a. Formica) covering is ideal. Installation is easy, just cut it over sized, apply contact cement to both surfaces, press on the laminate, and trim the edges with a hand router & trim bit.

For right now I am just looking for ideas on what I have on hand. I do have bondo available, since that is what I used when I did my epoxy table. It’s probably me, but when I used the bingo there was a lot of sanding and a big mess lol.....

I may just use the bonds, and then pain it... when time/money permits I will go with either Opoxy or laminate.

 

[rjhockey]

For filling holes I personally love Timbermate Wood Filler, easy to apply, sand and never dries out.
Filled knot holes with it on:

It stains just like wood.
Most of my projects are stained and "varnished" but even on the pieces that are painted I use it.

If you do go the epoxy route and need more use TotalBoat Epoxy that stuff is relatively cheap (64.99 for a gallon) and easy to use.

 

[Redpappy]

For filling holes I personally love Timbermate Wood Filler, easy to apply, sand and never dries out.
Filled knot holes with it on:
View attachment 693860
It stains just like wood.
Most of my projects are stained and "varnished" but even on the pieces that are painted I use it.

If you do go the epoxy route and need more use TotalBoat Epoxy that stuff is relatively cheap (64.99 for a gallon) and easy to use.

nice table. have you used totalboat epoxy? The epoxy that I have used was from StoneCoatCountertops.com: Learn How To Renew Your Old Worn Services With Epoxy . For now, I’m looking at justmoothing and protecting the top. As of right now, it is mainly used to measure and mill my grains. I got tired of doing that Stuff on the floor lol.

 

[rjhockey]

Yes, I have used totalboat epoxy for a live edge table. Just make sure you keep your project 'cool' while it cures.

 

[SalParadise]

I know you're trying to do this with what you have on hand, but one other thought might be to check out the big box stores for miscut / misordered countertops. I scored some wood grain laminate that was 1-1/4" thick x 1-7 deep x 12-0 long for about $20 a few years back - built my work benches in my garage with it. For the price, it might be worth it to save yourself the time of trying to level out that surface - could could just screw something like this on top from underneath your existing table and you'd be done.