Burners: SP10 vs KAB4

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mdscole

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ive been using the bayou classic SP10 for about a year when I discovered brewing. I bought it years ago for steaming crabs in Bodega bay. (Mmmmmmm). Well, after 10-12 gallon batches started 6 months ago, the weakness of the SP10 was starting to show. It works fine, but slow. I looked at the top end burners (blichman, edelmetal) but settled on the KAB4.

It's impressive. On full blast, flames go 8" up the side of my 15 gallon kettle. So at about half throttle the flames stay under the pot. Theoretically 100,000 btu. It takes al little more than half the time to hit the same temps as the SP10. It is also really quiet in comparison. It does use more propane for the same result though. I used to get 4 batches out of a 20# tank, this looks like 2-3 batches on the same tank.

Overall, it saves about an hour on brew day.(whole grain)

Plan is to convert to natural gas.

The only drawback becides the burn rate is the burner is more suceptable to wind interference
 
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mdscole

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Update: I converted it to natural gas by drilling the orofice out to 1/8". A few connectors to go from flare to NPT. I'm using a flex 1/2" air line from Harbor freight as a temp line from the meter to the burner in the garage.
The meter has a T used as a pressure test point. Pulled that plug out, installed a street 90, a reducer a ball valve and a camlock fitting. At the other end of the hose is another 1/2 ball valve, more camlocks and a 3' pigtail to the burner. Probably $100 worth of parts.
It's not quite as strong as the propane, but it's still got flames 2" up the side of the pot. Never worrying about propane is awesome.
 

doug293cz

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Update: I converted it to natural gas by drilling the orofice out to 1/8". A few connectors to go from flare to NPT. I'm using a flex 1/2" air line from Harbor freight as a temp line from the meter to the burner in the garage.
The meter has a T used as a pressure test point. Pulled that plug out, installed a street 90, a reducer a ball valve and a camlock fitting. At the other end of the hose is another 1/2 ball valve, more camlocks and a 3' pigtail to the burner. Probably $100 worth of parts.
It's not quite as strong as the propane, but it's still got flames 2" up the side of the pot. Never worrying about propane is awesome.
You might want to check if that installation is code compliant (I suspect it's not, but I'm not a code wonk.) If it's not and you have a fire, your insurance company might not pay.

Brew on :mug:
 
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mdscole

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Correct. It is not code compliant. It is temporary however. The hose is attached and detached for each use. It is also outside of the structure.

403.6 Plastic pipe, tubing and fittings. Plastic pipe, tubing and
fittings shall be used outside, underground, only, and shall conform
to ASTM D 2513. Pipe shall be marked “gas” and “ASTM D
2513.”

The tubing used does not conform to ASTM D 2513.

Relative risk - it's at a significantly lower pressure than propane with multiple shutoffs. I think I can sleep at night.
 

doug293cz

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Correct. It is not code compliant. It is temporary however. The hose is attached and detached for each use. It is also outside of the structure.

403.6 Plastic pipe, tubing and fittings. Plastic pipe, tubing and
fittings shall be used outside, underground, only, and shall conform
to ASTM D 2513. Pipe shall be marked “gas” and “ASTM D
2513.”

The tubing used does not conform to ASTM D 2513.

Relative risk - it's at a significantly lower pressure than propane with multiple shutoffs. I think I can sleep at night.
I suspect the use of camlocks on gas lines is also a no-no, as flow won't stop when the connection is separated.

Brew on :mug:
 

hawkbox

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I have one of each, I use the SP10 for heating the strike water as it was my first burner. I use the KAB4 for my boil and I've had to adjust my times and math as it boils a lot stronger than the SP10 does. It requires me paying more attention.
 
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