BruControl: Brewery control & automation software

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That’s what I thought. Also see that regarding dry hopping. I can see how that is an advantage in that the conversion to YOUR units is already done. I have finally gotten a handle on how the API interfaces with Node Red .
 
Anyone have a script to calculate a DateTime Start Cold Crash date from a DateTime Start Fermentation Date

Example: I have a Start Fermentation DateTime of 06/07/2024

I want to Ferment for 14 days before I cold crash,

I want the date I start DateTime Start Cold Crash 14 days from the Start Fermentation Date
 
@BrunDog

if you have a global value type, you get an error
Expected Value Type

when you use the displayname in a script

example:
You have "Global 1" as a value type.
You have "Global 1" displayname = "xyz"
You get the Error
Expected Value Type

if you change the Global 1 to a String it works fine.

You get a similar error with
Boolean
Time
DateTime

The displayname will only work with a String Type.
 
Hi, I have a Adafruit Feather M0, which In intend to use to control my Glycol Chiller, and I would like to add a LCD to, and therefore can I use a 16x2 LCD, or do I need to use a 20x4 version? Thanks.
 
Anyone have experience overloading or hurting the AA-1? I an using 2 channels of one to signal some Johnson Controls water valves. I am using a meanwell 12V supply input and 0-10V output and they have worked for many years. I have not used my system for about 4 months and when I went to use it, Channel 1 valve was not working, I checked voltage a the terminal block in my panel that went to the valve and no voltage. no voltage at the output of the AA-1, but 4.86 volts at the input (mega powered by USB). I swapped the output signal from channel 2 and it seemed to kill that also, I have not calibrated channel 3 and four, but they seem dead too... I have an entire spare board, the LT1639 chip is replaceable, and the datasheet says it can have a complete short on the input as long as I do not overheat the entire chip (This depends on the power supply voltage and how many amplifiers are shorted).. Max current stated in the product note of the AA-1 is 45ma, but not really something I can fuse or protect... I guess I calibrate the spare board, replace the suspect valve and hope for the best? Maybe test the suspect valve with a 5V supply (50% open and ammeter?
 
Anyone have experience overloading or hurting the AA-1? I a using 2 channels of one to signal some Johnson Controls water valves. I am using a meanwell 12V supply input and 0-10V output and they have worked for many years. I have not used my system for about 4 months and when I went to use it, Channel 1 valve was not working, I checked voltage a the terminal block in my panel that went to the valve and no voltage. no voltage at the output of the AA-1, but 4.86 volts at the input (mega powered by USB). I swapped the output signal from channel 2 and it seemed to kill that also, I have not calibrated channel 3 and four, but they seem dead too... I have an entire spare board, the LT1639 chip is replaceable, and the datasheet says it can have a complete short on the input as long as I do not overheat the entire chip (This depends on the power supply voltage and how many amplifiers are shorted).. Max current stated in the product note of the AA-1 is 45ma, but not really something I can fuse or protect... I guess I calibrate the spare board, replace the suspect valve and hope for the best? Maybe test the suspect valve with a 5V supply (50% open and ammeter?
Did you make sure your ground was connected? Sounds like you have voltage in but maybe the circuit isnt complete?
 
The other one worked until I messed with it, and the AA-1, and both proportional valves have the same ground terminal on my DIN rail... the AA-1 has power and a good ground and is not outputting voltage.
 
is anyone else having issues with license deactivation? mine is saying remote cert invalid even tho im supposed to be on professional..not alowing any remote connections
 
Looks like the certificate expired on the license server the older versions used. You are doing the right thing in upgrading for a quick resolution.
 
is anyone else having issues with license deactivation? mine is saying remote cert invalid even tho im supposed to be on professional..not alowing any remote connections
Close BruControl.
Go to documents/ BruControl and get rid of the settings file (settings.brusettings)

When you open BruControl again, it will be set to the default configuration.

A new generic settings.brusettings will be created.

Go to settings then license. Enter your e mail. You will need to select your configuration as well and also go to data exchange and enable the service
 
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Whew... Finally made it through all 8000 posts on this thread. I'm planning to move to electric from gas, and Brucontrol looks like the hands-down best option out there. I'd love to start my build with the latest tech for futureproofing, starting with the esp32-s3. From what I can gather, there is still only a beta version of that out there, is that correct? Should I be concerned that we still don't have a published firmware for it a year out from beta? I noticed a distinct drop-off of brunDog's activity recently, and no posts in the last 7 months. I don't want to sound pessimistic but just making sure the product hasn't reached end-of-life before I jump in with both feet. Is it more a case of the product has reached a maturity level that the community can support it on it's own without BrunDog's help?
 
Whew... Finally made it through all 8000 posts on this thread. I'm planning to move to electric from gas, and Brucontrol looks like the hands-down best option out there. I'd love to start my build with the latest tech for futureproofing, starting with the esp32-s3. From what I can gather, there is still only a beta version of that out there, is that correct? Should I be concerned that we still don't have a published firmware for it a year out from beta? I noticed a distinct drop-off of brunDog's activity recently, and no posts in the last 7 months. I don't want to sound pessimistic but just making sure the product hasn't reached end-of-life before I jump in with both feet. Is it more a case of the product has reached a maturity level that the community can support it on it's own without BrunDog's help?
The program side is fairly stable ( although we are all waiting for the release of version 2).

I oersonally use the Mega and those are still available.

You are somewhat dependent on some items from BruControl although if you know what you are doing, you could do the circuits yourself (RTD, 10 K Probes although one wire hardly needs anything).
 
Hey All, interested to see if anyone has encountered a situation where their Uniflex v2 (with nothing plugged in) does not default to "access point mode" when powered on?

Notes:
No 3.5mm jacks plugged in
No I/O plugged in
No 120v/240v plugged in
Confirmed power is on (bluelight and fans running)

I've searched with both a windows laptop for SSIDs being broadcast and also an apple device looking for signals coming from the Uniflex...neither with any luck.

I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something obvious.
 
Hey All, interested to see if anyone has encountered a situation where their Uniflex v2 (with nothing plugged in) does not default to "access point mode" when powered on?

Notes:
No 3.5mm jacks plugged in
No I/O plugged in
No 120v/240v plugged in
Confirmed power is on (bluelight and fans running)

I've searched with both a windows laptop for SSIDs being broadcast and also an apple device looking for signals coming from the Uniflex...neither with any luck.

I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something obvious.
[Update]
After swapping out the ESP32 board with a known good, I'm back in action. I haven't done any diagnostics on the old board yet, but at least I'm back online.
ESP32.jpg
 
Hey there! 👋 With Easter just around the corner, I can't help but wonder: are there any secret surprises tucked away in the potential BruControl update? Like hidden gems waiting to be discovered? 🥚🔍 @BrunDog

Or is it End of life? :(
 
Hopefully this forum is still active. It’s been awhile since I last checked. I’m in the process of upgrading my computer and need to transfer my BC activation. I’ve downloaded the latest version of BC and when I enter my activation email I get a message telling me to deactivate it my other computer. Does anyone know how to do this?
 
Hopefully this forum is still active. It’s been awhile since I last checked. I’m in the process of upgrading my computer and need to transfer my BC activation. I’ve downloaded the latest version of BC and when I enter my activation email I get a message telling me to deactivate it my other computer. Does anyone know how to do this?
 
Basically go to the old computer and delete the c:\documents\brucontrol\settings.brusettings

This will remove that computer and hopefully allow you to get one the new one. If you have not upgraded to firmware v46, that is a significant update and requires some action on your part. If you have any Analog Inputs, it is more challanging.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...ntrol-automation-software.624198/post-9310064
 
Hopefully this forum is still active. It’s been awhile since I last checked. I’m in the process of upgrading my computer and need to transfer my BC activation. I’ve downloaded the latest version of BC and when I enter my activation email I get a message telling me to deactivate it my other computer. Does anyone know how to do this?
I contacted Peter at [email protected] when I changed computers and he was able to deactivate the (licence) on the old one which allowed me to install (licence) on the new one. Make sure you backup your config files and transfer them to the new upgrade files you just downloaded.
Didn't take much time from contacting him to installing a new copy of the software.
 
valve 03 wiring two prong Separate Plug for LED1x.png

I wire it like this. I have 24 v LEDs (We use 24 v to operate the valves, 12 v is plenty) )that also light up when they valve is commanded. This is simply a power light and does not indicate open or closed. You need 5 wire for that but because they (5 wire)are reverse polarity, they are a PITA!

I connect via 3 pin connectors so I can replace the valve quickly. The LEDs have their own 3 pin.
 
I have also used the 3-wire US solid valves and had two of them fail after a few months. I have since switched to the Brucontrol valves. I was just using them for water, max temp of 150F, well below the max rating of 194F.
 

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