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pube

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Hi! I have an calibrated ispindel, i use direct to brewfather. It sends the correct gravity value.
I want send the gravity to the brewpiless, but the values is absolute incorrect.
In gravity menu the ispindel is on, all other is off.
What can i doing, to the correct value?
Sorry for my bad english.
 

DuncB

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Do you get the correct values when you use something like brewspy?
Brewspy can use the formula from the ispindel or use formula in brewspy. This could be your issue with brewfather and brewpiless. There is an ispindle thread on this forum worth a look there as well.
I'm on holiday away from my ispindels and brewpiless so limited information beyond these ideas.
 

alexlark

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I'm successfully running on 4.1 but have this warning shown briefly when the page loads. I'm not using any gravity device, is it related and can I turn it off? Cheers

Screenshot_20220710_085317_com.android.chrome.jpg
 
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pocketmon

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I'm successfully running on 4.1 but have this warning shown briefly when the page loads. I'm not using any gravity device, is it related and can I turn it off? Cheers

NO. It's more convenient for me to just have gravity axis.
 

DuncB

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Ive just installed ( realise I could have tried upgrade ) from 4.0 to

BrewPiLess.v4.2rc4.oled.ispindel.bin

BrewPiLess.v4.2rc4.oled.esp8266.4m2m.bin


I have tried both of these with my oled display on correct type 1306

But I just get a flashing display with lines. Previously I got text on the screen before the update. Is the oled for brewpiless meant to be wired differently?
Is there a pin and wiring diagram somewhere for the oled setup please. I'm using a lolin esp 8266.
 

DuncB

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I have it wired as per this arrangement.
oled on brewpiless.png

and it brings up a display with text on using this binary


based on the webpage

here

I'm using google translate on that page.

I'm reckoning that the real brewpiless is expecting input and output from different pins for the oled display but cant seem to find what this is.
 
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pocketmon

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A picture of your display might help.

The most important new features, as I remember, are
  • Rotating LCD for extra information, like iSpiondel information, Humidity, and pressure.
  • New 'Write on buffer full' option for logging to reduce flash writing.

If you don't need the additional information display, change the setting in "System" page. The display will adapt according to availability of information. If no extra information is available, only IP address is displayed.

Please aware of the "write on buffer full" option, which delays the writing of log if enabled. Logging data might be lost when the system resets.
 

day_trippr

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If your configuration has been rock solid wrt sensor readings then stick with it.
But I do recommend 2.2K for 3.3V pull-ups, 4.7K for 5V pull-ups...

Cheers!
 

DuncB

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A picture of your display might help.

The most important new features, as I remember, are
  • Rotating LCD for extra information, like iSpiondel information, Humidity, and pressure.
  • New 'Write on buffer full' option for logging to reduce flash writing.

If you don't need the additional information display, change the setting in "System" page. The display will adapt according to availability of information. If no extra information is available, only IP address is displayed.

Please aware of the "write on buffer full" option, which delays the writing of log if enabled. Logging data might be lost when the system resets.
Sorry it's taken so long video is of screen appearance with the 4.2 installs as mentioned in post 1207 above.


Still picture is with firmware from this site
IMG_20220924_101125.jpg

Not sure why I get this screen chaos with the 4.2 updates.
I have tried the options in system for screen but it made no difference to the display.
 

LBussy

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Do I need to really change that resistor, it's been fine on the 2 sensors for the last ages?
No, but as day_tripper says it’s recommended. If it’s not working now that would be one thing to try. You can always piggyback/double-up a 4k7 to get close to a 2k2.

Think about it like filling a reservoir. You want enough water trickling in there so that it fills up in between emptying it. If there’s not enough water coming in, there’s no difference between filling (logical high) and emptying (logical low.)

The pull up is almost mechanical in that respect, and certainly not magical.

When you have thinner or longer wires, thinner or longer traces, or lower voltage (or all of these) you need a stronger (lower number) pull-up. Remember Ohm’s law: A 2k2 is almost the same amperage on 3v3 as 4k7 is on 5v0 (certainly close enough for this use.)
 
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pocketmon

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Sorry it's taken so long video is of screen appearance with the 4.2 installs as mentioned in post 1207 above.


Still picture is with firmware from this site
View attachment 781765

Not sure why I get this screen chaos with the 4.2 updates.
I have tried the options in system for screen but it made no difference to the display.

Probably it's a hardware issue, bad wiring or dying OLED display. The software would never write illegal characters.
 

DuncB

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Probably it's a hardware issue, bad wiring or dying OLED display. The software would never write illegal characters.
It seems strange how a variant of the brewpiless software the display is working correctly as per the still photo.
Yet if I install the 4.2 firmware from Vitotai the screen is chaos as per the video.
I'm not changing the hardware in anyway at all just a software change.
The OLED is fine, could the 4.2 software be sending it's data via different pins to the screen from that of the design and software from diyhomebrewers?

Has anyone wired the OLED screen onto a Lolin ESP8266 and got it working? Are my wirings the same?
 

DuncB

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@LBussy
Thank you, so the 4k7 resistor is currently too large for the two sensors it is wired across and choking the filling of my " reservoir of power too much ". Yet I'm thinking I might have this completely wrong as you say I could use two of the 4k7 to mimic the effect of the 2k2.
 

day_trippr

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These ds18b20 sensor outputs can only drive a signal to a Low ("0") state, which is roughly within a couple hundred millivolts of the GND level. They rely on the pull-up resistor to establish High (1) states. As you add sensors and the wire thereto capacitance is added which can (will) affect the transition "slope" from a low level to a high level (ie: from a 0 to a 1). If that slope is excessive it can cause communication errors.

Again, many compact One-Wire networks will work using a 4.7K pull-up to 3.3V, but it's not the optimal solution...

Cheers!
 

LBussy

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Thank you, so the 4k7 resistor is currently too large for the two sensors it is wired across and choking the filling of my " reservoir of power too much ". Yet I'm thinking I might have this completely wrong as you say I could use two of the 4k7 to mimic the effect of the 2k2.
Maybe. I mean if everything else is right, this could be it. The only way you'd be able to tell without making the pull-up stronger is to see it on a scope. Dave's description is much more technically correct than my own, and you should always listen to him in a discussion about electronics. My own projects work much better when I do. :)

Again, many compact One-Wire networks will work using a 4.7K pull-up to 3.3V, but it's not the optimal solution...
Yep, agreed. Especially with @Thorrak's board. :p

It's a nearly free and very easy thing to try if you are sure the wiring is correct I'm 99.9999% sure his board allows selecting the sensor power between 3v3 and 5v0 (you have to pick one!) but the data pull-up is 3v3 as it should be.
 
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