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DuncB

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I've wired the brewpiless all up but on the graph screen at the top on left side I have Invalid state

No power is going to either relay. Pretty sure they are wired up okay. Any ideas, I set it to beer constant at 2 celsius.
brewpiless not working.JPG


I've searched around and can't seem to find what this means on any of the brewpiless info. I am using a double SSR as recommended on this forum and have them set up non inverted in the devices.
 
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DuncB

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Yup. Remove jumper, put 5V on the 3 pin header side (JVCC) and put 3.3V on the 4 pin header side (VCC).
GNDs are indeed internally connected...

Cheers!
I have now wired up the SSR using this method, it differs from the circuit diagram that is here

Now on devices page I have this
brewpiless devices.JPG

and a red light on the SSR on the side nearest the 4 pin header.

If I change to non inverted for device 2,3,4 the red light moves to near the 3 pin header.

But still no power coming out of either of the two relays.

Could it be my 2 amp powersupply via USB to the USB port on the ESP8266 Lolin MCU?
 
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pocketmon

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I have now wired up the SSR using this method, it differs from the circuit diagram that is here

Now on devices page I have this

and a red light on the SSR on the side nearest the 4 pin header.

If I change to non inverted for device 2,3,4 the red light moves to near the 3 pin header.

But still no power coming out of either of the two relays.

Could it be my 2 amp powersupply via USB to the USB port on the ESP8266 Lolin MCU?

Are you using SSRs or an Relay Module with usually blue or black blocks?
Usually, you should set "Inverted" for Relay modules, and "non inverted" for SSR.

Try connect direct from 3V3 and the GND to the input of the SSR or relay module, and see if it "clicks".
Measure the voltage of the output PINs.

That's all I can suggest.
 

day_trippr

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What does the main gui page say? Is it set to "do something" or is it set to "Off"?

Cheers!
 

DuncB

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Are you using SSRs or an Relay Module with usually blue or black blocks?
Usually, you should set "Inverted" for Relay modules, and "non inverted" for SSR.
Thanks for the reply I'm using the blue block one and have them set to inverted.

I haven't heard any clicks at any stage, when you say connect 3v3 and ground is that direct from the esp8266 to which bit of the blue block relay ie bit with 4 pins or the three pin bit?
I first set it up with the jumper on the three pin bit and 3.3 going to the VCC on the 4 pin as per the vitotai instructions I linked to above.

Then I removed the jumper and put 3.3 to the JVCC on the three pins and connected the 5V from the esp8266 to the VCC on the 4 pins. I didn't connect another ground to the ground on the 3 pins as @day_trippr had said they were connected grounds between the 4 and 3 pins.
No better so I then connected a ground as a later post by @LBussy did say to connect ground.

The fact that the chamber cooler and chamber fan devices both say they are active suggests to me that the esp is sending the signal but the relay can't action it due either to a lack of voltage perhaps or a wiring error, but I can't see a wiring error.

I have put a multimeter on the 240v side and have power coming in ie live on input and at the middle of each 3 terminals that i have connected that live to on the relays the com 1 and com 2
My lives to the devices are screwed into the terminals to the left of these when you look from the blue block side ( the NO1 and NO2 terminals).

So it appears that the relays aren't doing there thing.

I was using the pin that said Vin 5V from bottom left of the esp8266 as my source of 5V assuming it had power from the usb, but no power on this with multimeter. I think that means I would put 5 V into this if I wasn't using the usb to power the board, so i'm not supplying 5V to the relay only 3.3 and it's not working.

I'll use a separate 5 V power supply and put that onto the JVCC and use the ground from that power supply , and use the 3.3 from the esp onto the VCC of the 4 pins and a ground from the esp.

Might be onto something here.

Is a 5V 1.0 amp powersupply enough to run the relay?
 
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DuncB

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What does the main gui page say? Is it set to "do something" or is it set to "Off"?

Cheers!
Many things come up
have attached a screen grab of what I think is the main GUI page

line across the bottom light blue waiting to cool comes up top right corner ( where idle is in this grab ), darker blue cooling, gap is idle and grey is waiting to peak , so I think the logic is all working.
brewpiless and spindle.JPG
 
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day_trippr

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Yeah, ok, that's garbled enough to explain the "INVALID STATE" flag.
Gonna have to defer to actual BPL users on this one...
 

DuncB

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Thanks @day_trippr
Am I still okay to try a separate 5 V 1.0 amp power supply onto JVCC and use the ground from that powersupply onto the ground ( where the 3 pins are).
Then use the 3.3 V out from esp8266 to VCC on the 4 pins and use a ground from the esp?

As mentioned by you in a previous post?
 

day_trippr

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If you are using an esp, the IO are all 3.3V, so yes you should use the scheme I recommended above.

Cheers!
 

DuncB

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@day_trippr and @pocketmon

Developments,

I plugged in a separate 5 V to the JVCC and ground.
Plugged 3.3 V into the VCC on the 4 connectors and grounded that.

Turned on the power supplies and not much happened. Then after waiting to cool I heard a click and then a red light came on the Relay.
Tested the outputs and no joy, felt pretty disappointed. Then tested with voltmeter and found no live power at all on that side of the relay.
The penny dropped and I plugged in the Mains and bingo I had power at the cool plug.

Thanks for your help, the issue was insufficient volts to the relay.

The next one I build will be much easier!!
 

DuncB

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Just as a tweak could i wire it so one 5V psu powered the relay and the ESP ( ie not use the usb socket on it for power but that 5V in) or would that be tantamount to crossing the streams as in Ghostbusters?
 

day_trippr

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That would actually be how most folks have used Arduinos to control the same relay modules over the years, so yes, that should work...

Cheers!
 

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So today my device started going into a reboot mode where it restarts and says initializing wifi then displays the current temp etc. If I try to open its GUI in my browser I can see the main page but if I try to change the temperature it just hangs and causes the unit to reboot again but I cant get it to accept and keep the temperature change. Could this be a power supply issue or a problem with the ESP?
 

troyp42

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So today my device started going into a reboot mode where it restarts and says initializing wifi then displays the current temp etc. If I try to open its GUI in my browser I can see the main page but if I try to change the temperature it just hangs and causes the unit to reboot again but I cant get it to accept and keep the temperature change. Could this be a power supply issue or a problem with the ESP?
Anyone? @Thorrak
 
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pocketmon

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So today my device started going into a reboot mode where it restarts and says initializing wifi then displays the current temp etc. If I try to open its GUI in my browser I can see the main page but if I try to change the temperature it just hangs and causes the unit to reboot again but I cant get it to accept and keep the temperature change. Could this be a power supply issue or a problem with the ESP?
Both could be possible. WiFi operation drains more power and might crash the system when power supply is not enough.
Try formatting the filesystem if you can. It might help on software's issue.
 

troyp42

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Both could be possible. WiFi operation drains more power and might crash the system when power supply is not enough.
Try formatting the filesystem if you can. It might help on software's issue.
How do I format the file system?

Also a few months back I posted about my screen showing scrambled digits every so often. Lbussy said it may need a refserh script built into the software? Is this something you can add? Am I the only one getting this issue etc? Thanks for the help.
 

troyp42

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How do I format the file system?

Also a few months back I posted about my screen showing scrambled digits every so often. Lbussy said it may need a refserh script built into the software? Is this something you can add? Am I the only one getting this issue etc? Thanks for the help.
@pocketmon ??
 
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pocketmon

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The LCD refreshing code has been there since the beginning. However, it didn't work because of a typo. It's fixed in 4.2pre, which is currently under test.
 

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Hi All, Absolutely love BrewPiLess and have manage to get everything up running, only missing adding a couple of control buttons and a lcd screen. My question is, are there anyway you can make BrewPiLess control both heating and cooling? My scenario is this: Whenever temperature is below some given setpoint, say 20C then start heating, until 20C, but if temperature raise to above 22C then start cooling? I brew Belgian beers and they can potentially go crazy and temperature can raise to 27-30C if you dont do something about it. I know that to have certain esters in the beer you need high temperature fermentation, but being able to control the temperature then its possible to stop the yeast killing itself.
 

DuncB

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Definitely yes is my answer.

Do you have the cooling relay and heating relay wired on?
I have the fridge as the cool and use a heating belt on the fermenter as my heat source.

This website explains it pretty well.

I have not been using mine long and have only used it on Beer constant ie set it to 20 and it keeps it at 20. It uses an algorithm so it isn't as on and off as an STC 1000 so there is less / nil over or undershoot.

I have brewpiless with a screen but don't have the buttons I just use the webpage method. I have put two temp probes on it one for beer ( which is blu tacked to the side of fermenter ) and one for fridge temp. I did have ispindel as an external temp probe but signalling every 15 minutes or so it didn't seem to add much as I got this info thru brewspy anyway. Although you can set up brewpiless to actually send temp probe data to brewspy which gives you offsite oversight of temp if you want.
I really should get the screen working as I went to the trouble of getting it and wiring it on.

However I have built one of these


but the software is early in development and it doesn't yet relay onto any other sites such as brewspy but the display is much better.
 

JesNielsen

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Definitely yes is my answer.

Do you have the cooling relay and heating relay wired on?
I have the fridge as the cool and use a heating belt on the fermenter as my heat source.

This website explains it pretty well.

I have not been using mine long and have only used it on Beer constant ie set it to 20 and it keeps it at 20. It uses an algorithm so it isn't as on and off as an STC 1000 so there is less / nil over or undershoot.

I have brewpiless with a screen but don't have the buttons I just use the webpage method. I have put two temp probes on it one for beer ( which is blu tacked to the side of fermenter ) and one for fridge temp. I did have ispindel as an external temp probe but signalling every 15 minutes or so it didn't seem to add much as I got this info thru brewspy anyway. Although you can set up brewpiless to actually send temp probe data to brewspy which gives you offsite oversight of temp if you want.
I really should get the screen working as I went to the trouble of getting it and wiring it on.

However I have built one of these


but the software is early in development and it doesn't yet relay onto any other sites such as brewspy but the display is much better.
Thanks @DuncB

So what you actually do is to add to Will try to play around with it.

I have actually 4 relays wired on such that I am able to control a pump also and a fan. I am skal plan to use a fridge as fermentation chamber and have installled a heating cartridge in the stainless fermentation bucket. I plan to use an iSpindle for gravity readings and push readings til BrewPiLess.
Definitely yes is my answer.

Do you have the cooling relay and heating relay wired on?
I have the fridge as the cool and use a heating belt on the fermenter as my heat source.

This website explains it pretty well.

I have not been using mine long and have only used it on Beer constant ie set it to 20 and it keeps it at 20. It uses an algorithm so it isn't as on and off as an STC 1000 so there is less / nil over or undershoot.

I have brewpiless with a screen but don't have the buttons I just use the webpage method. I have put two temp probes on it one for beer ( which is blu tacked to the side of fermenter ) and one for fridge temp. I did have ispindel as an external temp probe but signalling every 15 minutes or so it didn't seem to add much as I got this info thru brewspy anyway. Although you can set up brewpiless to actually send temp probe data to brewspy which gives you offsite oversight of temp if you want.
I really should get the screen working as I went to the trouble of getting it and wiring it on.

However I have built one of these


but the software is early in development and it doesn't yet relay onto any other sites such as brewspy but the display is much better.
HI @DuncB

Thanks for the fast reply.

I have the cooling relay and heating relay wired on an plan to use a fridge as the cool and use a heating cartridge in the fermenter as my heat source.

Have been reading the page you linked on how yo setup fermentation control with ramp stages, but stil in doubt if its possible to setup a max/min level, such that if temperature rise above ie 22C then it should start cooling, but if it drops under 20c then it should start heating at the same time?

TIA

Thunderheart
 

JesNielsen

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Thanks @DuncB

So what you actually do is to add to Will try to play around with it.

I have actually 4 relays wired on such that I am able to control a pump also and a fan. I am skal plan to use a fridge as fermentation chamber and have installled a heating cartridge in the stainless fermentation bucket. I plan to use an iSpindle for gravity readings and push readings til BrewPiLess.


HI @DuncB

Thanks for the fast reply.

I have the cooling relay and heating relay wired on an plan to use a fridge as the cool and use a heating cartridge in the fermenter as my heat source.

Have been reading the page you linked on how yo setup fermentation control with ramp stages, but stil in doubt if its possible to setup a max/min level, such that if temperature rise above ie 22C then it should start cooling, but if it drops under 20c then it should start heating at the same time?

TIA

Thunderheart
Wups two replies. That was unplanned though the first one was deleted😳
 

DuncB

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@JesNielsen
Worth reading this page


This might allow you to tinker with the PID algorithm to set a range that is a bit looser.

I certainly find that if I set beer to 20 for example it cycles as needed, not sure why you want such a range ie from 20 to 22?
Why not set it to 20 for a time frame or another temp of your choice.

You'll actually find that during the active ferment the heat isn't used anyway and it's only as the ferment slows down ( which you'll see on Ispindel ) that some heat might need injecting.

Does that help?
 
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