Brewing first batch right now quick question!

[MikeMizz]

Hey guys, First post here I've been lurking and reading for a few weeks but couldn't find a situation like mine so hopefully someone can help this newbie out

I have my fermenter and utensils soaking in sanitizer right now as I type this... I do unfortunetly have a Mr. Beer fermenter but I have ingedients from a brew shop, no Mr beer ingredients.....So that's not as bad, Right? haha ;-)Anyways, on to my question...

I bought this kit/ingredients off someone online, The guy was very helpful in answering questions and everything but I don't want to barrage him with questions... The ingredients I have is to make a Pale Ale... I'm not a fan of very hoppy beers so I'm wondering if you guys can help me tweak my recipie?

Here's what I have (all is weighed out to make a 2gallon batch according to the previous owner..

*Crosby & Baker Muntons light dried malt extract (color: 8 ebc louind 3.5)
*Crosby & Baker Willamette hop pellets (it's a 1oz pack but has about half in it)
*Fermenti's dry ale yeast safele US-05

Does this sound like a good Pale Ale recipe? anything I can do to make it a less hoppy beer? (I drink all kinds of beers, Untill recently I was a Big 3 beer drinker but my brother in-law has opened me up to different/better beers!) I've been drinking Newport storm brews (our local brewery) and been trying new kinds every week..... Any tips on a good one that may taste "similar" to the recipie I have here so I can get an idea of what it's like?

Thanks and looking forward to replys and comments!
I have my batch ready to brew so help me out fellas

-Mike

 

[h22lude]

How much DME are you using?

With a 2 gallon batch, I would assume you have about 2 to 3 lbs of DME. 1/2 ounces of hops is a little under what a pale ale IBU would be but if you want a less hoppy beer then maybe that would be good for you

 

[Cimerian]

The only way to make it less hoppy is to cut down on the hops. If you want less bittering from the hops use only half when you start your boil then just add the other half in say the last 10 or 5 min of your boil for aroma and flavor. A pale ale is nothing like a budweiser btw just to let you know if that is what you are expecting. Why not make it as is? You would be surprised how fast hops grow on you.

 

[MikeMizz]

I have 2 lbs DME..... Noticed your from RI I'm over in Cranston! Any suggestions on beer I should try that might let me know what this (should) taste like? I understand Mr Beer is lowest quality way of making beer but I bought it before doing any real reading and now I just want to get the best out of it... I plan to ferment for 2 weeks, condition for 2-3 and fridgerate for 2-3 Sound about right?? -Mike

 

[Desrever]

I do unfortunetly have a Mr. Beer fermenter

Whats so Unfortunate about that ? I have 3

Sounds like your going to do just a Bittering 60 min boil ? it shouldn't have to much of a Hoppy taste.

 

[h22lude]

I have 2 lbs DME..... Noticed your from RI I'm over in Cranston! Any suggestions on beer I should try that might let me know what this (should) taste like? I understand Mr Beer is lowest quality way of making beer but I bought it before doing any real reading and now I just want to get the best out of it... I plan to ferment for 2 weeks, condition for 2-3 and fridgerate for 2-3 Sound about right?? -Mike

I live in Lincoln but I'm actually in Cranston right now at my buddy's place.

I'm not really sure what this will taste like. The OG and color are right on with a pale ale. The hops are a little low so it won't be as hoppy as a typical pale ale. It's only 2 gallons so I say try it and see how you like it.

As long as you are pitching the right amount of yeast cells, you can ferment for 2 weeks at the right temp for the yeast. Then I would bottle condition for at least 3 weeks. The longer you bottle condition the better it will get. It will be ready after a week or so. You could also put a few in the fridge after a few weeks to try them and do it again another week or so later to see the taste difference.

 

[wolfman_48442]

Willamette is quite mild, no worries on creating a hop bomb.
I've made a blonde with 1 oz of Willamette in a 5 gal batch that was very nice, I think 1/2 for your 2 gallons would be great.

 

[MikeMizz]

The only way to make it less hoppy is to cut down on the hops. If you want less bittering from the hops use only half when you start your boil then just add the other half in say the last 10 or 5 min of your boil for aroma and flavor. A pale ale is nothing like a budweiser btw just to let you know if that is what you are expecting. Why not make it as is? You would be surprised how fast hops grow on you.

Thanks for your reply! Oh I know it's nothing like a Bud! That's not my thing anymore, Like I said I have started to explore different kinds of beer and I like what I've been experiencing... I have started to explore the many craft and 'weird name' beers that I used to stay far away from. I love the hops flavor, and I'm sure it'll grow on me even more I just don't don't like extremely hoppy IPA such as Big Eye ale (every try it? I'm an avid fisherman so I had to give it a try but was too much for me) I'm sure IPA's will grow on me but I've got to take baby steps

I'm about to get to boiling the water very soon, I might make a video since I love watching brewing vids on youtube


-Mike

 

[MikeMizz]

Whats so Unfortunate about that ? I have 3

Sounds like your going to do just a Bittering 60 min boil ? it shouldn't have to much of a Hoppy taste.

Well, I meant that I don't have a big fancy set-up as of yet but still need help! Yes I'm planning a 60 min boil Thanks for the info, I'm hoping it comes out decent enough to drink! haha.

Thanks for all the fast replies fellas very helpful, Great forum!

-Mike

 

[Desrever]

Well, I meant that I don't have a big fancy set-up as of yet but still need help! Yes I'm planning a 60 min boil Thanks for the info, I'm hoping it comes out decent enough to drink! haha.

Thanks for all the fast replies fellas very helpful, Great forum!

-Mike

It's all good, I started with a MR.B keg and then went to a 5 gallon bucket, then another bucket then a 6.5 gal carboy then another 2 Mr.B kegs... It's gone completely out of control.... :rockin: at least when you start small you'll know if you want to keep on brewing without having dropped to much cash to start with. Enjoy and post back about your experience's in Home Brewing.

 

[TJTHEBEST]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with mr. beer and dont let anyone tell you differently. i think Jamil (or one of those big pro guys) started with mr beer and look at him now.

 

[MikeMizz]

Well the brew night turned out to be a good time... Nothing like brewing beer, while having a beer and watching the Bruins game! I put my fermenter inside of an antique coke cooler in my basement to make sure no light gets to it! Now I have to think of a clever name for my brew haha

Anyone have any idea of what the abv will be with the ingredients used after it's all conditioned and chilled? I'm still learning how to figure out ABV it's a different language to me right now! haha

Thanks,
Mike

 

[BOBrob]

We would need the hydrometer reads. OG (original gravity) say around 1.050; & FG (final gravity) say around 1.010 to figure the ABV. Here is how; 1.050-1.010= .040 x 131=5.24%. The 2lbs. DME is a little low for 2.5 gal. Mr. beer unless you added more sugar to the boil to get more ABV. I started with the same kit & if I recall it was around 4%. Welcome aboard , the next thing ya know you`ll have buckets, coolers and a turkey fryer with a hundered questions!Cheers

 

[sanch]

Anyone have any idea of what the abv will be with the ingredients used after it's all conditioned and chilled? I'm still learning how to figure out ABV it's a different language to me right now! haha

1.034 acording to http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/recipe.html

and buy an inexpensive hydrometer online or at a brew shop. you'll figure it out.

also the potential IBUs are 30.

 

[MikeMizz]

Thanks guys.... 1%? That's after it's conditioned & primed? I was looking for more then that! I don't like drinking beers to get sh*t faced but after a couple a good buzz is welcome haha anyway I can increase abv or am I stuck with this? Next brew will be doing a lot more research. I'm working on grabbing a hydrometer I just paid to have my boat hauled and shrinkwrapped for the winter so money is tight this week.

If I pick up a hydrometer is it too late to get a reading that will be applicable with the after fermentation reading to sum up an approx apv? I thought I take the hydrometer reading after fermentation and I was planning to buy one this week.... my mistake.... was it a costly mistake?

H22lude you know any good homebrew shops in the area?

 

[BOBrob]

The 1.034 that sanch posted is the OG. Get the hydrometer and do the math when you have the FG reading after fermentation is done. No mistakes were made, you just learned some thing new. Cheers

 

[sanch]

the OG. reading is taken prior to fermentation and the final gravity reading is taken post fermentation.

so if you take an OG. reading of 1.060= 7.5% ABV "potential"
and then you take a FG. of 1.010=.9 % ABV you just subtract the OG reading by the FG reading so... 7.5 - .9 = 6.6 with extract the computed numbers are pretty accurate so get a hydrometer and measure the FG. and you should have a good idea of the final ABV

more fermentable sugar = more alcohol so add more extract = more alcohol

 

[MikeMizz]

Quick follow up question. I've read to keep fermenter out of the light so I placed it inside of a cooler in my basement. in a couple of days I'd like to take a look at it to see how it's looking but how do you guys check your fermentation progress without light getting to it?

Also, I wasn't thinking at the time but in order to check the progress and get a hydrometer reading eventually I have to pull the fermenter out of the cooler to see it and to reach the spigot..... I'm afraid of a accidentally shaking it while lifting it out of the cooler.

Willl this motion disrupt the process ?

thanks,

Mike

 

[MikeMizz]

any input on my last post greatly appreciated! -mike

 

[daksin]

You don't have to worry about light if you're only opening it up for a few minutes. You could leave it out uncovered for hours and be fine. 99% of the light won't even see the beer- it's dark and won't make it through the very edge. Hell, you could take the airlock off and ferment without it for a month and you'd still end up with the same beer 99% of the time.

The only time skunking is an issue is when people leave unboxed beers out on the shelf with lots of lights on for days and weeks at at time, in stores where beer doesn't turn over very much.

You're being way too sensitive about this stuff (don't take offense- we all did it at first. ALL of us). Shaking your beer isn't going to do anything. You could even stir it if you wanted (no reason to, but it's not going to ruin anything). At the moment, your beer is covered in a lovely layer of CO2 into which no oxygen dares venture.

As long as you don't take off the air lock, stir the beer around, put on a stopper and shake the carboy like a baby, aeration isn't an issue either.

RDWHAHB, as the fella says. Have fun!

 

[MikeMizz]

Checked on the brew this morning... From what I can see it looks good... I see "crust" foam on the sides and light colored foam coating on top (please excuse my lack of technical words for what it's called haha) But It looks good, I tried to take a pic but fermenter is took dark to get a good enough picture. I do have one concern though, My fermenter is in a cooler so it should be holding constant temp however this morning the fermenter is cool to the touch... I don't have a thermometer yet (Yes I know, I should have waited till I had the cash for the extras before starting this brew).... If the fermenter is too cold, should I remove it from the cooler and keep it at room temp instead or just let it do it's thing? Like I said I seen visable signs but I don't know if these are old signs and it's slowed way down cause of the cool to the touch temp or if it's thriving just fine... It's been in there for almost a week I plan to give it another 7-10 days in there.


Tell ya what guys, I haven't tried my brew yet but even if it comes out horrid, This whole experience is great (even the down/waiting time, just thinking about it) and I definetly plan to brew again regardless of the come out of this first batch!

-Mike

 

[birvine]

How cool is cool? Freezing point? LOL! If it is roughly-roughly in the vicinity of 60 to 65 F then you're ok. Even a bit cooler would be fine.

B

 

[MikeMizz]

Haha No not freezing, Just cool to the touch... My basement is usualy between 60-70 it's heated/finished but the fermenter is inside of an old metal coca cola cooler and it's always a little cooler in there than room temp it feels. Going on a week and a half of fermentation i'm going to try and get a pic.

 

[djfriesen]

I find that with my 1 gallon kits, vigorous fermentation lasts for about 1.5 days (I usually shoot for 64°-66° according to a stick-on thermometer). Then, I have to bring the temp up to 68°-70° in order for the yeast to finish up their work. Since the vigorous part of fermentation is where temp control is most crucial, this doesn't seem to have a huge effect on the end product.

Cool to the touch is probably fine, but you may want to get some kind of thermometer to check the temps when you pick up your hydrometer. That way, if your SG hasn't come down as far as you like, you can warm the beer up a little bit and see if that helps. Couple degrees raise in temps is usually good for 2-3 gravity points in my small batches.

 

[MikeMizz]

Thanks for the reply... So if my temp is too low it wont hurt it to raise the temp and just give it a few more days or so ?

Happy turkey day

 

[MikeMizz]

Well it's officially been two weeks! However, I think I'm going to leave it fermenting for another 2-3 days just to be safe! There's no problem with that right?

Going to start sanitizing bottles soon!

-Mike

 

[Desrever]

Well it's officially been two weeks! However, I think I'm going to leave it fermenting for another 2-3 days just to be safe! There's no problem with that right?

Going to start sanitizing bottles soon!

-Mike

if you don't have a hydrometer yet give it 3 weeks before you bottle it.

 

[MikeMizz]

Alright thanks, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't fermenting for TOO long... One more week it is. But I'm still trying to grab a hydrometer I just been busy to drive to home brew shop. Thanks

p.s. By any chance does walmart sell a hydrometer? Not sure if they are specialy made for brewing so excuse my lack of knowlege

 

[MikeMizz]

Walmart.com: Hagen Marina Living Sea Hydrometer: Fish

Something like this ^ ? I see that it's for aquariums but maybe it's the same thing? Because walmart or even a petco is alot closer then brew shop for me!

-Mike