Brewer's Edge Mash & Boil

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Snark_Wolf_Brewing

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I always get the temp swing, but I don't fret...still makes good beer :)

Yeah, I checked the mash temp with an Inkbird instant read thermometer a few times during the course of the mash in and it showed a solid 150. The reading on the control panel was only off by 2 or 3 degrees under 150. Pretty confident I'm gonna have a great batch of Blonde Ale to drink in a few weeks after I get it bottled up and let it carbonate. :mug:
 

hcarter004

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This is the one I'm looking at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQPQ7CZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2XGPJRYNKIXYO&psc=1


Copy and paste of basic description:

  • ALL-IN-ONE: The Mash and Boil includes pump and makes home brewing and mashing easy - no need for an outdoor burner or brewing stand. Our precise thermostat and internal sparging basket lets you mash and boil in the same vessel.

  • TEMPERATURE CONTROL: This model features an adjustable thermostat with a Fahrenheit and Centigrade toggle. A thermometer hole is provided in the lid, in case you want to monitor the temperature of the top of the mash.

  • RECIRCULATION PUMP: Easily attach the Recirculation Arm and tubing and turn on the recirculation pump which keeps even temperatures throughout the brewer during mashing.

  • PROGRAMMABLE TIMER: Our brewing system comes with an adjustable runtime preset at 3.5 hours for safety and it also features a delayed start timer, so you can program the Mash and Boil to turn on up to 24 hours after setting.

  • STAINLESS STEEL: The Mash and Boil’s exclusive double wall stainless construction conserves heat and is very easy to clean.
 

TwistedGray

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This is the one I'm looking at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQPQ7CZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2XGPJRYNKIXYO&psc=1


Copy and paste of basic description:

  • ALL-IN-ONE: The Mash and Boil includes pump and makes home brewing and mashing easy - no need for an outdoor burner or brewing stand. Our precise thermostat and internal sparging basket lets you mash and boil in the same vessel.

  • TEMPERATURE CONTROL: This model features an adjustable thermostat with a Fahrenheit and Centigrade toggle. A thermometer hole is provided in the lid, in case you want to monitor the temperature of the top of the mash.

  • RECIRCULATION PUMP: Easily attach the Recirculation Arm and tubing and turn on the recirculation pump which keeps even temperatures throughout the brewer during mashing.

  • PROGRAMMABLE TIMER: Our brewing system comes with an adjustable runtime preset at 3.5 hours for safety and it also features a delayed start timer, so you can program the Mash and Boil to turn on up to 24 hours after setting.

  • STAINLESS STEEL: The Mash and Boil’s exclusive double wall stainless construction conserves heat and is very easy to clean.

Do it :)
 

Immocles

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To anyone else that does biab on this unit, I have a question!

I've never brewed anything higher volume than 4G on my unit, how big of a volume can you manage doing a full volume mash? I know a simple dunk sparge is super easy, but full volume is still easier! I'd like to start splitting 5G into 2 fermenters to test out yeasts and fermentation temps.
 

Snuffy

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I normally start with about 4.5 gals of mash water in the M&B. That’s for grain bills in the 12 to 14 lb range. If it‘s thick, I top it up a bit. After the initial basket drain I usually have about 3 to 3.5 gals left. I sparge it back up to about 6.25 gals and then boil off a gallon. Using a hop spider I can get a tad over 5 gals into the fermenter with minimal trub.
 

Immocles

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Hmmm.

Would it make much of a difference if I mashed with, say, 5 gallons and then dunk sparged in about 1.5G for my volume? or is that too thin? I used to have to sparge on my old stovetop method in about a gallon of water, but that was mostly because I could eke out a slightly better efficiency. It wasn't so much about the volume and I admittedly never learned that whole thin/thick mash concept. Do you sparge at a certain temp? I generally did at 168ish on my stovetop, but I brew in the basement these days and don't really trust myself with carrying hot water down the stairs.
 

Snuffy

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Not sure what you mean by dunk sparge. The only way I know to sparge an all grain batch in the M&B is to pour over the raised inner grain basket. Dunk sparge sounds like something from an extract brew with partial grain where you teabag before adding extract. I’ve brewed several batches with a room temp sparge that came out fine but I usually try and use water in the 160-170 range. I was in the same situation where I had to heat water upstairs and carry it down. Not cool. ( NPI). I bought a 2 liter electric pitcher that heats water to a set temp in a few minutes. 4 or 5 pitchers with that and I’m up to boil volume.
 

GBRbrew

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I have the mash and boil with pump and was wondering if anyone had upgraded the recirculation arm with a camlock quick release I'm having trouble finding info on the right parts to use.
 

Dancy

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I have the mash and boil with pump and was wondering if anyone had upgraded the recirculation arm with a camlock quick release I'm having trouble finding info on the right parts to use.
I just bought a M&B a few weeks ago from William’s Brewing and ordered their camlock recirc arm at the same time for $25. It works fine but truthfully, not necessary. Obviously it is a convenient quick release as opposed to a screw-on version which is included. If it is important to you, go for it.
 

Alex4mula

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I have done 63 brews with this system and really love it. I added the Amazon pump by brew thirty something. Works perfect. Just be sure to clean it with PBW right away. Otherwise it can get stuck with the sticky sugary wort residue. I bet it can happen too with the M&B one.
 

GBRbrew

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I just bought a M&B a few weeks ago from William’s Brewing and ordered their camlock recirc arm at the same time for $25. It works fine but truthfully, not necessary. Obviously it is a convenient quick release as opposed to a screw-on version which is included. If it is important to you, go for it.
Man i have been looking all over for a kit like that. There are some accessories I want to try on my MnB the first one being a whrilpool arm but i need a camlock for it.

CHEERS!
 

Immocles

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Anyone use a scylla chiller from jaded brewing? I have a standard copper 25 immersion chiller, and I’m not going to say it takes forever, but it’s a lot longer/more water than I’d like. Just throwing it out there to see if the upgrade would be worth the cost, or just stick with what I’ve got
 

jtratcliff

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Just wanted to mention that the Klarstein Maishfest is pretty much identical to the no-pump M&B... As in I think it's the exact same hardware w/ different branding.. . Also comes with an IC...

1625475646976.png


I just score a 35L Maishfest on Prime Day for under $160...it was an Amazon Warehouse item, so most likely a return... There was some evidence of use around the heating elements, but everything else looked brand new.... Had an E4 when I started it up with a water test, but I hit the reset switch and all was good.

Did my 1st brew on it yesterday. Went fairly well for learning a new system.

So If you're eyeing the pump-less version of the M&B, also check out prices on the Klarstein.
 

Immocles

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Poor abandoned thread...

I biab inside the malt pipe and am curious if anyone out there regularly uses step mashes on their M&B?
 

Coastalbrew

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Poor abandoned thread...

I biab inside the malt pipe and am curious if anyone out there regularly uses step mashes on their M&B?
I've been thinking of trying it on mine but haven't done it yet. I think the easiest way would be to start with a thick mash at low temp and then do boiling water infusions along with controller adjustments to get to your subsequent mash temps. I'm on the mash and boil FB group and have seen lots of posts griping about scorching and the e4 error message when trying to step mash using just the element and controller to heat things up. I have a hefe recipe I want to brew that has 3 steps starting @ 115*, then 127*, then 149*. There is an infusion calculator on Brewers friend that makes all the calculations pretty easy. I've played with it a little and it looks like if I start the mash pretty thick and end it a little thin I could get to all my temps without too much difficulty, in theory at least. ;)

Have you tried it before? If so what has/has not worked for you?
 

Immocles

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I havent tried try. I'd rather not have to go the route of boiling water because I have no other heat source in the brew room. Perhaps ill come across a cheapish induction burner for something like that. I have yet to come across the dreaded E4 error, but I'm really tempted to just give it a shot on the controller and see what happens. Much like you, I'm looking at dialing in a hefe and dunkelweizen. And I wouldn't mind testing it out on some lagers, as I spend a decent amount of the year doing that as well.

Is it detrimental to pull the bag while its heating, and then dropping the mash back in when it has reached the next step? I'm unsure of the time it takes to get from, say, 148 to 156F.
 

Coastalbrew

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I'd rather not have to go the route of boiling water because I have no other heat source in the brew room. Perhaps ill come across a cheapish induction burner for something like that.
Yeah that method is a little more labor. I brew in my kitchen, so the stove top is right there and I have a decent size stock pot that I use to heat sparge water, so for my setup it's a little easier.
I have yet to come across the dreaded E4 error,
I've only had the e4 once and it was right at the end of the boil so wasn't a big deal. I just called it good and started chilling the wort a few minutes early. The folks on the FB group that I've seen griping about getting it during step mashes, have complained that they've had to drain everything out clean the scorching off the bottom and start again. That's more than I'd want to deal with for sure. But if it's just one step it might work out ok. You'd definitely want to keep it on the low wattage setting I think.
Is it detrimental to pull the bag while its heating, and then dropping the mash back in when it has reached the next step? I'm unsure of the time it takes to get from, say, 148 to 156F.
I don't know if it's "detrimental", but it seems like when you put the cooler mash back in, it would drop the temp down again and you'd miss the target temp. Seems like you would have to set the controller for a higher temp, so that when you add the mash back in it drops to the desired temp. Same as you do with the strike water temp. I don't know how you would figure what temp to shoot for, especially since the grain will be cooling off while you wait for the water to heat up. That math makes my brain hurt.:D I don't think a small jump like your 148 - 156 would take more than 5 or so minutes with just water, but with the grains in, I'd guess it would take a bit of time.
 

Immocles

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Good point on the grain cooling down a bit. I never consider details like that haha. Perhaps it might be best to test it out with a single step and see what happens. That way if things go sideways, it’s not a complete emergency. Even if it’s just coming up to a mash out temperature for science.
 

Coastalbrew

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Good point on the grain cooling down a bit. I never consider details like that haha. Perhaps it might be best to test it out with a single step and see what happens. That way if things go sideways, it’s not a complete emergency. Even if it’s just coming up to a mash out temperature for science.
As a time saver, I have used the element to start heating up to a boil while the grain drains at the end of my sparge before. I get my son to hold up the grain pipe every few minutes while I stir the wort to keep crud from scorching on the bottom. The crud on the bottom is what seems to cause the e4. If you keep that stuff in suspension while the element is going, my theory is, you won't have an issue with the e4. That's been my experience anyway.

Give it a shot and post your results. It all in the name of science right.:D
 

Immocles

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Well hmm.

I got to thinking (and drinking, probably drinking first, then thinking). I do have an electric kettle that can hold up to a half gallon of water. I can easily stick that, or another one since my wife uses it daily, into my brewery for step additions. I brew 2.5-3G batches for the most part, so perhaps I can manage something with half gallon additions.
 

SFC Rudy

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When I step mash I use this pump
bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM
I got off of Amazon and I use a dimmer switch to control flow. Takes a little extra time, but it works.

I also use a brew bag inside the malt pipe and have never had an E4 error (knock on wood!)
 

cryptohomebrew

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Poor abandoned thread...

I biab inside the malt pipe and am curious if anyone out there regularly uses step mashes on their M&B?

I always do step mashes or reverse step mashes since gluten free grains demand it. I do not put a grain bag inside the grain pipe.
 

Coastalbrew

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I always do step mashes or reverse step mashes since gluten free grains demand it. I do not put a grain bag inside the grain pipe.
What is your process for facilitating the temp adjustments? Have you had issues with the dreaded E4 error, or any other issues related to the step mash process?
 

cryptohomebrew

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What is your process for facilitating the temp adjustments? Have you had issues with the dreaded E4 error, or any other issues related to the step mash process?

I prefer reverse step mashes. I heat the strike water to 173F and add Termamyl and hold for 20 minutes. Then I drop to 140F and add SEBAmyl BAL and hold for 60-90 mins.

E4 isn't really a big deal, there is a button underneath the unit that needs to be pressed and held to rest it.
 

Coastalbrew

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I prefer reverse step mashes. I heat the strike water to 173F and add Termamyl and hold for 20 minutes. Then I drop to 140F and add SEBAmyl BAL and hold for 60-90 mins.

E4 isn't really a big deal, there is a button underneath the unit that needs to be pressed and held to rest it.
Huh, I wonder how that would work with regular grains? Do you just add cold water to cool it down?

I've never really had issues with the E4, only got it once right at the end of my boil, but not keen on starting to get it more often.

Cheers!
 

cryptohomebrew

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Huh, I wonder how that would work with regular grains? Do you just add cold water to cool it down?
Cheers!

I imagine it would. I just reset the temperature to the 140's and then wait for the temps to fall naturally. While it takes more time, its actually a good thing for gluten free grains like millet and rice because starch conversion into sugar take longer.
 

DarrellQ

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I guess all these electric systems must have the same issues or use the same software. The only time that I have ever tried to do a step mash with my Anvil Foundry, I encountered an E3 error message (overheated heater). I thought it was a fluke and didn't know it could have been related to the step process until now. I had never encountered E3 before and haven't encountered it since.
 

cryptohomebrew

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I guess all these electric systems must have the same issues or use the same software. The only time that I have ever tried to do a step mash with my Anvil Foundry, I encountered an E3 error message (overheated heater). I thought it was a fluke and didn't know it could have been related to the step process until now. I had never encountered E3 before and haven't encountered it since.

I can only speak for the M&B but the time I overheated the unit was due to my own error. The M&B has a maximum 3.5 hr run time, so when I sparge the grain pipe I turn the unit off to give it a break.

The M&B also explicitly states a maximum of 16lbs grain bill and that no grain bag should be inserted into the pipe. Apparently the cloth being so close to the heating element overwhelms it somehow.
 

Coastalbrew

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I can only speak for the M&B but the time I overheated the unit was due to my own error. The M&B has a maximum 3.5 hr run time, so when I sparge the grain pipe I turn the unit off to give it a break.

The M&B also explicitly states a maximum of 16lbs grain bill and that no grain bag should be inserted into the pipe. Apparently the cloth being so close to the heating element overwhelms it somehow.
I use a bag in every batch. Never have an issue during the mash. The only time I've had the E4 was at the end of the boil when I let too much particulate settle on the bottom and it scorched pretty good.
 

Immocles

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I see there's a series 2 out for purchase. Anyone thinking about upgrading? I'm curious if the parts are universal between the two, because I wouldn't hate the upgraded mash basket.

One thing I do find curious about the series 2, is that it specifies for using between 8-16 lbs of malt. I see there is an adapter for smaller batches under 8lbs, but I am regularly using 5-7lbs of malt in my current machine with no issues. I can't see how the modified grain basket would make a difference in that.
 

Coastalbrew

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Looks like the adapter blocks the holes in the sides of the grain pipe. My guess is the increased flow through is disadvantageous for smaller grain bills. Don't really know why it would be, but that's my guess.
 

Immocles

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I figure it has to be something to do with that as well, but I cant see how it would be a disadvantage either. I'll be curious to see some reviews in the coming weeks and months. If the upgraded basket fits on the original unit, I would totally consider trying to get that part pieced out separately, if available.
 

jtratcliff

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Just a warning for those of you who BIAB inside the pipe... I put a 2-3" rip in my Wilser bag when trying to pull the bag for an external dunk sparge. It snagged on the little sections of the handle that protrude into the pipe at the top.

Was not a happy camper after that.

So have a care when you pull your bag...
 

Immocles

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Just a warning for those of you who BIAB inside the pipe... I put a 2-3" rip in my Wilser bag when trying to pull the bag for an external dunk sparge. It snagged on the little sections of the handle that protrude into the pipe at the top.

Was not a happy camper after that.

So have a care when you pull your bag...
You know, I think about that every time I pull the sack out. I’ve always wondered if anyone has caught it in that spot.
My condolences, no one wants a torn sack.
 

TwistedGray

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Just a warning for those of you who BIAB inside the pipe... I put a 2-3" rip in my Wilser bag when trying to pull the bag for an external dunk sparge. It snagged on the little sections of the handle that protrude into the pipe at the top.

Was not a happy camper after that.

So have a care when you pull your bag...

I got a small tear a few brews ago...hasn't been that big of a deal to have replaced yet.

And I enjoy the simplicity of the OG version (the grain pipe is useless, imo...biab is the way to go)
 

Dancy

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I see there's a series 2 out for purchase. Anyone thinking about upgrading? I'm curious if the parts are universal between the two, because I wouldn't hate the upgraded mash basket.
Of course it came out less than a year after I bought mine from William's -- so it goes. I am interested in the new mash pipe as well. You could buy one separately for the old model so let's hope this one is the same size -- and for sale separately
 

Coastalbrew

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I put a 2-3" rip in my Wilser bag when trying to pull the bag for an external dunk sparge. It snagged on the little sections of the handle that protrude into the pipe at the top.
My condolences too. That stinks! I've always taken the handle off when I'm not actively using it because I'm afraid of that very thing. Of course the spring clips I use to hold my paint strainer bag in place have done a pretty good number on the top of my bag too. I keep looking at it at the start of each brew day and say to myself, " man I really need to replace this thing" and then I don't. Maybe next brew day;)

Cheers!
 

GBRbrew

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I'd be more interested in the low density elements as mine tends to scorch the bottom of the kettle on darker beers


Cheers
 

grzrk

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I just learned a couple valuable lessons with my M & B I thought I'd share while I have some time to kill. After a couple years of all grain batches, I thought I'd try a "quick and dirty" extract batch to see how it goes. Steeped with a couple gallons for 20 mins, topped it off to 6.5 gallons and brought to boil. Slowly added 3 pounds of DME, went well, no boil over, so far so good.

Last 15 I was going to add a can of LME and knew to do it slowly. I actually turned off the burner and stirred in the goop. Stirred some more, then fired it back up and got the E4. Great. Unplugged and pushed the reset switch, E4 again. Did this 4 or 5 times before draining the wort into a couple buckets and saw that there was some pretty good scorching even though I thought I took my time. Cleaned that off, dumped in a bit of wort, E4 again! This time though, when I tried to reset, I felt a "click". Argh! Put in a gallon or so of wort and it's heating back up again... so the rest goes back in the kettle and I'm here waiting for a boil. :cool: I'll let it go for a few minutes before resuming my schedule. I had it on 1000w, BTW

Lessons learned:
1. If using LME, drain out some wort into something and dissolve the LME into that before adding back to the kettle.
2. If you don't feel the click, your E4 isn't reset. lol
 
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