BrewBuilt IceMaster Max 4 design

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Feb 11, 2018
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It appears I didn't think this through well enough before I plopped down the credit card - but now I'm in possession of a BrewBuilt IceMaster Max 4 Chiller and am a bit concerned about the design. At this time I'm only chilling one Spike Unitank, but I intend on getting another one this summer. I liked the idea of all pumps already built in, but the onboard temperature controllers might be an issue for me.

How do you cool one fermenter while heating/cooling another? My temperature controllers actually say heat & cool; but I can't understand how there is any heating functionality built in? There's a water bath sitting at 2C, I can't imagine how this unit would be able to send warm water to the fermenter. I looked for a place to plug in a heater for each controller but I don't see it; this would have been the ideal solution. I've come to the conclusion that it won't heat or control heat; so I will still need an inkbird attached to the heater blanket. Oh, and the thermowell won't fit 2 probes, so one needs to be taped to the Unitank.

I've thought about hacking into the wiring so the pump is controlled by the WiFi inkbird controller; essentially bypassing the controllers on the chiller. But damn, I should have just bought the IceMaster 100 unit then and used the $150 savings to buy pumps and more inkbirds.

On another note, the controllers only reading out in Celsius is a bit frustrating. And the fan motor not being bolted down completely was an annoying fix I had to make after it was full of water (made one hell of a racket when it first turned on); come to find out the hole is stripped. I had to put a backing nut on the bottom of the unit to get it secured. Reading other quality control issues gives me concerns - so I'd rather not return this and get the IceMaster 100 and face a different quality control issue.

Am I missing something? Anybody else worked through this issue?
 
Pretty sure no glycol chillers can heat; you’d need a heating pad or a separate reservoir heated to pump hot water through your coils.
 
Yeah, that’s kind of where I landed as well. Now, after I purchased this thing, I see no value in onboard controllers. I think I’m just going to disconnect the pumps from the controllers and wire cords to them so I can use inkbirds (which are Wi-Fi and will read in F). Essentially I’m turning my Max 4 into a 100 with pumps and tubing.
 
There is a thread about the Max2 that covers adding heater control. I cut and spliced a couple of extension cords into my Max2 to control a 110V heating element and it works well.
 
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