Brew room design questions

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hezagenius

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Getting some prep work done before the garage floor panels get installed tomorrow. 100A wiring was run from the main panel. Interior door was framed.

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NickTheGreat

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Looking good. We actually had a new driveway poured about this same time. Back when it was damn near 100! Which isn't good for concrete either . . .
 
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hezagenius

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Yes, a garage. Those panels were engineered for it. Lots of steel inside the concrete.

Or someone is getting sued if a car falls through.
 

day_trippr

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Haha! I had no idea that room was built into a decent grade! Cool!

Cheers!
 
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hezagenius

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Haha! I had no idea that room was built into a decent grade! Cool!

Cheers!
Yep. The back of the new room is approximately at daylight while the front of the room is approximately at the grade of the existing driveway. There was a retaining wall there so it was either bring in a bunch of fill or dig it out for a room. Both options cost money so we might as well get some use out of it. Originally we had planned a different configuration for the brewing setup but when the builder said the room under the garage is an option, we said go for it.
 
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hezagenius

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100A panel is installed and lower wall is framed. They decided the panel would be easier to install on the existing concrete wall instead of in the framed wall so I'm going to ask the builder if we can put a casement window in the framed wall now.

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day_trippr

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fwiw that's code here. I'd expect it to be commonly required elsewhere...

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day_trippr

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Ugh. That'd suck. Doubly because prevention is so effin' trivial!
A large part of the waterproofing/dampproofing regs in MA were the result of what mold exposure can do to families...

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Tobor_8thMan

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Go 97 miles and take a right...
Ugh. That'd suck. Doubly because prevention is so effin' trivial!
A large part of the waterproofing/dampproofing regs in MA were the result of what mold exposure can do to families...

Cheers!
Especially easy, relatively writing, when done outside. Years later, not so easy.

Mold is bad! Had this at my house in Annandale, VA. (a house built brand new in 1968).
 

day_trippr

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Well we were discussing "building regulations", so...

Cheers!
 
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hezagenius

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Patio got poured on Friday. And some grout was put into some gaps between the wall and the panels.

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hezagenius

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Looking for some advice here. Anyone have any ideas how to fill in the seams between the panels in the ceiling? The gaps are probably an inch wide and maybe an inch deep, give or take. Not sure if grout is the way to go since it might fall out as it dries.

Obviously I'd like it to match the existing ceiling, but I'm more concerned with just filling it in and smoothing it out so it can be sealed and painted.
 

NickTheGreat

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Vulkem? an inch might be getting kinda wide, but you could get some foam backers to put in that would work? I don't know if you'd want to slob vulkem into a 1 x 1 cavity
 
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hezagenius

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An idea I had is maybe using wood over the seams? Not quite sure the best way to do that or if that would even look good. Plus it might screw up the low profile lighting.
 
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hezagenius

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I found some caulk roll in an online search so that might be a good solution to fill in the void between the panels. Then put on however wide a bead of paintable caulk is needed to cover that up. Then if it ever needs replaced, it won't be too hard to do.
 

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I think I'm late to the convo, but just to provide a counterpoint to the floor drain consensus: my brew shed has waterproof vinyl flooring and I keep a shop vac in the corner, plugged in and ready to go. Rather than squeegeeing spills into a drain, I squeegee them up with the shop vac, and aside from occasionally having to dump the vac, the end result seems the same to me.

Also, one unique thing I'm glad I did: rather than mounting my pump to my brew table, I mounted it to a pair of 4x4s. That way I can move it around throughout the brew day and use the shortest/fewest hoses possible.
 

Tobor_8thMan

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Go 97 miles and take a right...
Please realize a floor drain is useful for things other than spills.

IMO, easily allows mopping the floor after my brew day.

Also, my basement is normally very, very dry except in July and August. In these months I run a dehumidier and put the liquid down the floor drain.
 

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Back to the open joints…
You can get preformed joint fillers from Emseal and others. Easy to install but they are expensive and are usually special order.
Probably the best option is to use a good non-sag Urethane or Acrylic Latex sealant to seal the joint that is installed onto foam backer rod. Heres your process:
Install 1-1/4” backer rod in the joint (assuming joint is 1” wide) no more than 1/2” from the surface. Don’t make it a 1” deep joint… thinner is better. Gun the Urethane onto the joint making sure to fill the whole void. Tool it to smooth the surface.
Good Urethanes are made by Sika, Sonneborn, Vulkem, and Pecora. With the size of the joint and the quantity you will need you will be better off buying sausages and a sausage gun (about $50) instead of cartridges.
My recommendation is to go to a specialty house. They will have everything you are looking for and have a staff that works with this every day. In Iowa I think that would be Glenrock, Carter Waters, or Stetson and perhaps Wnite Cap. Stay away from the big box stores as this is not what they do. At the end of the day, this is quite simple, except that you will be working upside down.
 
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hezagenius

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Yeah, I talked to the builder and he said basically the same thing. Fill the void with backer rod and then vulkem or something similar to seal over it.
 

Tobor_8thMan

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Go 97 miles and take a right...
Uh, what?

I swear, the longer I am on the Internet, the less I understand people.
Put in another way, we will always do something better as we are doing it for ourselves. We won't cut corners, take the cheap way, etc. However, there are those times when the item/project, etc is beyond our abilities. Now understand?
 
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Yeah, I talked to the builder and he said basically the same thing. Fill the void with backer rod and then vulkem or something similar to seal over it.
Whatever you put in those joints make sure it can take movement. Precast planks flex more than you would think when you put live load on them.
 
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