Brew Day w/ Photos - Feb 21

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kombat

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I always love a good photo journal of a brew day, so I thought I'd post one of mine so those of you who couldn't brew today could live vicariously through me. Today I brewed a double IPA I call "Wailing Widow." It's based on the Pliny the Elder clone recipe I found on HBT called "Pliny the Bastid."

Several days before brew day, I like to get all my ingredients ready so I'm not rushed on brew day. I've already weighed out the grains (but not yet milled them) and printed out the recipe. Also, to make sure I don't forget things like rice hulls, gypsum, or mash hops, I like to use these little note cards to remind me. I just put them on top of the recipe sheet (which itself is on top of the grain and a bucket of rice hulls) so there's no possible way I can miss/forget them on brew day.

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I also weigh out all my hop additions ahead of time, vacuum-seal them in little bags, and label them with their addition time. I keep them in the freezer (in a ZipLock bag with the batch name) until brew day.

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Here's a little trick that might help someone. The lid of the cooler I use as my mash tun flops closed on me. So I attached two screws, one to the lid and one to the body, so that I can use a spare piece of scrap wood (with two holes drilled in the ends) to hold the lid open while I'm doughing-in.

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Now it's time to mill the grain.

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Here's a better shot of how I label the hop additions.

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I undershot my temperature by a hair, I was going for 148° F. I like my IPAs nice and dry anyway.

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I cover the grain bed with foil to help it hold temperature, and to diffuse the wort during vorlaufing/recirculation later to minimize disturbing the grain bed.

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While it's mashing, I set up the grant and pump for recirculation later.

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Mash done, sparge water heated and waiting, I recirculate until clear.

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Once the wort has cleared, I disconnect the hose from the return pump and drain from the grant into a pot instead.

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The pot is etched with volume markings, allowing me to keep track of how much wort I've collected. This shot was actually taken while draining the second runnings, which weren't as clear as the first runnings.

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Sweet wort collected, I heat it all up in my main 15 gallon kettle.

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While waiting for the boil, I lay out my hop additions in the order they'll be being added. I also put out the Irish moss and corn sugar, so I don't forget to add them (not that that's ever happened to any of us, right?)

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That's a healthy dose of Warrior hops! 2.75 oz at 90:00 for bittering (along with a half-ounce of Chinook)

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Here's a shot down my street from my garage where I was brewing. It was around -15° C (5° F) while I brewed.

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I changed the recipe slightly and turned the flameout additions into hopstand additions instead. I accidentally overshop my chilling temperature (was aiming to hit 160°, but accidentally chilled to 150°). I added the flameout hops in a sock and let the whole thing sit for 30 minutes before resuming chilling.

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Chilling complete, I racked to a carboy while recirculating Oxyclean through the pump and chiller.

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Meanwhile, I prepped my yeast. 1 packet of US-05 rehydrated in 120 mL of 84° F water.

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I aerated with a Fizz-X rod on a second-hand drill.

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Nice and frothy! The lightbulb is on because I overshot my chilling (darn plate chiller and Canadian winter tap water) by 5° C.

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Look at that beautiful, creamy yeast! Look how happy they are when you rehydrate them instead of just sprinkling them to their death.

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Now it's officially beer.

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Checking my gravity with a refractometer. It's nice to be able to do it with such a small sample. I was aiming for 1.075, I hit 1.070.

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Now, time to cleanup. :( A necessary evil, unfortunately.

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That's it! Hope you enjoyed peeking in half as much as I enjoyed brewing it.
 
Wow, attention to detail with the the labeling and prep of your hops. I do enjoy looking at everyone else's process. Good work.
 
So I assume the grant is to help with flow to your pump? I've never seen one used. Do you have problems if you don't use one? Other than that nice organization skills!
 
Thanks for sharing that. Why the autosiphon instead of using the ball valve to drain into the kettle?
 
do u set ur siphon to a certain height when transferring to carboy or do u just drop it to the bottom and take all u can get?
 
Let's go back to the refractometer. I have a hell of a tome getting a reading on my hydrometer. What is a refractometer and how does it work like a hydrometer? Is there some conversion that has to be done? Cause if all I need is a sample in a shot glass to get specific gravity, I WANT ONE!
 
Thanks for the effort you put into that mate.
Makes me a little less sad I could not brew this weekend gone
 
The grant avoids the pump drawing a suction on the grain bed during recirculation. Also a convenient spot to check gravity and ph.


Going to steal that idea.

Thanks for sharing man...very cool thread. :)
 
Let's go back to the refractometer. I have a hell of a tome getting a reading on my hydrometer. What is a refractometer and how does it work like a hydrometer? Is there some conversion that has to be done? Cause if all I need is a sample in a shot glass to get specific gravity, I WANT ONE!


They work great for readings before fermentation. Once there's alcohol present one should use a hydro....or so I'm told.
 
They work great for readings before fermentation. Once there's alcohol present one should use a hydro....or so I'm told.

This is true, although you can use them for readings post-fermentation as well. You just have to apply a correction factor. There's a tool in Beersmith that will do the correction automatically for you.
 
Let's go back to the refractometer. I have a hell of a tome getting a reading on my hydrometer. What is a refractometer and how does it work like a hydrometer? Is there some conversion that has to be done? Cause if all I need is a sample in a shot glass to get specific gravity, I WANT ONE!

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A refractometer is pretty awesome. You put unfermented wort on the lens then close the clear plastic top and view through the eyepiece. There are some that display in brix (the most common) and others that display in specific gravity. If you have a brix reading you can convert to specific gravity (I use BeerSmith). There is also a small focus ring that you can use to sharpen the image.

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The refractometer is surprisingly easy to use. You can take a reading of your wort very quickly after you have drained and sparged your mash so you can quickly determine if you need to add more water or extract...or if you simply want to take readings for your brewhouse efficiency. After boiling it takes a very quick reading to let you know what your OG is. My refractometer came with a plastic pipette which was not the best thing to use on hot wort (ended up melting it a bit) so I recommend a glass or stainless steel (preferable of the two) turkey baster. You can use it to draw off a small sample from the middle of your kettle.

This is one of those tools that I don't regret purchasing. I use it at least twice on every brew day.
 
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