Brew Bucket 3 piece ball valve?

[dsniegocki]

I use (and love) the SS BrewTech 7 gallon Brew Bucket... very easy to keep clean. Except for... the cheesy ball valve that comes with it. I've switched over to 3-piece ball valves on my MT and kettle so I can get them spotless, and I'd love to do this on the Brew Bucket. Has anyone had any luck converting the OEM ball valve to a 3-piece on this thing?

 

[Lazer Wolf Brewing]

Curious about this as well.

 

[jddevinn]

I looked at the ssbrewtech website and it appears that the valve on these is similar to the sampling valve that they put on the concials (like I have) I also do not like this valve style. All my others are triclamp but I cant replace this one without silver soldering on a connection.

How does the dip tube connect on the inside of the fermenter? Give me an image of that and I should be able to tell you what to get to replace with a 3-piece.

 

[jddevinn]

Or you could always drill out the hole a bit and silver solder in a tri clamp Like I'm thinking about doing. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm

 

[dsniegocki]

I looked at the ssbrewtech website and it appears that the valve on these is similar to the sampling valve that they put on the concials (like I have) I also do not like this valve style. All my others are triclamp but I cant replace this one without silver soldering on a connection.

How does the dip tube connect on the inside of the fermenter? Give me an image of that and I should be able to tell you what to get to replace with a 3-piece.

I'm away from home or I'd grab a picture... the dip tub literally slides into place inside the ball valve, and is held in place with o-rings. I've not been thrilled with how that works either, but it appears to have held up fine. Here's a pic from their web site:

 

[dsniegocki]

Or you could always drill out the hole a bit and silver solder in a tri clamp Like I'm thinking about doing. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm

now THAT's not a bad idea at all...

 

[jddevinn]

now THAT's not a bad idea at all...

I'm away from home or I'd grab a picture... the dip tub literally slides into place inside the ball valve, and is held in place with o-rings. I've not been thrilled with how that works either, but it appears to have held up fine. Here's a pic from their web site:

Their triclamp butterfly valves have a similar built in design. The fermenter I have that I bought before the offered the butterfly had a similar adapter for the triclamp ball valve (that I replaced with a butterfly)

They sell the ball valve adapter separately if you want to go silver solder and use your own butterfly.

You could use a dip tube and bulkhead to connect but you'll lose the ability to rotate the racking arm (assuming that the buckets have that)

 

[dsniegocki]

Their triclamp butterfly valves have a similar built in design. The fermenter I have that I bought before the offered the butterfly had a similar adapter for the triclamp ball valve (that I replaced with a butterfly)

They sell the ball valve adapter separately if you want to go silver solder and use your own butterfly.

You could use a dip tube and bulkhead to connect but you'll lose the ability to rotate the racking arm (assuming that the buckets have that)

Butterfly valve would be sweet. I seem to be talking myself into getting a proper conical. Damn this hobby..

 

[jddevinn]

Butterfly valve would be sweet. I seem to be talking myself into getting a proper conical. Damn this hobby..

Next you'll need some glycol coolant

 

[nicolas_james]

Have any more pictures of your caster setup jddevinn?

 

[slarkin712]

I bought a 3 piece 3/8" stainless steel ball valve thinking/hoping I could just replace the crappy one with. I could definitely make it work, but the hole for the dip tube is far too big. I might have to measure it and see if one of the dip tubes from stainless brewing could work.

 

[jddevinn]

Have any more pictures of your caster setup jddevinn?

On the conicals? These are SS Brewtech ones, I just measured the threading that was on the feet when I got them and went to McMaster. I forgot to buy the leg extenders on the 2nd conical and am holding off until I buy a 3rd to save shipping.

This is what I ended up buying
http://www.mcmaster.com/#24025t64/=11hgib1

 

[dsniegocki]

On the conicals? These are SS Brewtech ones, I just measured the threading that was on the feet when I got them and went to McMaster. I forgot to buy the leg extenders on the 2nd conical and am holding off until I buy a 3rd to save shipping.

This is what I ended up buying
http://www.mcmaster.com/#24025t64/=11hgib1

How do you like the conicals? Do the advantages make an upgrade from the brew bucket worthwhile? I believe that I can re-use the temperature control (their FTS) system on the 7-gallon..

 

[jddevinn]

How do you like the conicals? Do the advantages make an upgrade from the brew bucket worthwhile? I believe that I can re-use the temperature control (their FTS) system on the 7-gallon..

Yea I like them. If you notice the two that I have picture earlier look different. The first one I bought had the ball valves and no cooling. I built built my own cooling coil and added the butterfly valves. When I proved the prototype worked I was going to buy another.....but by that time they had released the "professional" series with the cooling coil and butterfly valves.

My only complaints are:

With the threaded thermowell (and sample valve on the professional) they are not completely sanitary and these connections can't be just CIP. Although, with the cooling coil design you are not going to be sanitary with any of the designs I see.

The cooling coil on the professional has barbed outs However I just replaced the nuts with a coupling and added a quick disconnect.

The "standard" has a pressure relief in the lid of the conical. However, the relief is in a low spot so if it triggers any standing liquid falls into the fermenter I just replaced with a bolt and moved the pressure relief to the lid.... I think this may have been fixed by now.

I also do minimum 10g batches so never compared to a brew bucket.

 

[nicolas_james]

On the conicals? These are SS Brewtech ones, I just measured the threading that was on the feet when I got them and went to McMaster. I forgot to buy the leg extenders on the 2nd conical and am holding off until I buy a 3rd to save shipping.



This is what I ended up buying

http://www.mcmaster.com/#24025t64/=11hgib1

Ahh I have the 7 gallon. I don't believe I have threaded inserts on these legs.

 

[dsniegocki]

I bought a 3 piece 3/8" stainless steel ball valve thinking/hoping I could just replace the crappy one with. I could definitely make it work, but the hole for the dip tube is far too big. I might have to measure it and see if one of the dip tubes from stainless brewing could work.

Where did you source the 3/8" valve? Did you also get a 3/8" weldless bulkhead? Yeah, I was thinking I would still end up with the same issue with the dip tube.

 

[jddevinn]

Ahh I have the 7 gallon. I don't believe I have threaded inserts on these legs.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#casters/=11htewa look at the drum dollies

 

[Horatio]

Reviving an old thread yes I know. I just wanted to share my efforts.

Well today I did it. I installed a 3/8 3 peice ball valve using a reducing nipple 3/4 to 1/4. I drilled out the 1/4 end to 10mm on the reducing nipple and the pickup wand fits snuggly.

 

[Spartan1979]

View attachment 626014 View attachment 626015 Reviving an old thread yes I know. I just wanted to share my efforts.

Well today I did it. I installed a 3/8 3 peice ball valve using a reducing nipple 3/4 to 1/4. I drilled out the 1/4 end to 10mm on the reducing nipple and the pickup wand fits snuggly.

Does the hose barb go lower than the feet? It's hard to tell from your pic.

 

[Horatio]

No. I'd say there's an inch gap. Works for me as the bucket sits on a shelf and I can still take samples.

 

[Horseflesh]

Wow, nice work.

 

[magee_b]

No. I'd say there's an inch gap. Works for me as the bucket sits on a shelf and I can still take samples.
View attachment 626056 View attachment 626058

Bumping this one up - How is this modification holding up? Been getting tired of the cheesy little valve that comes standard and toying with tracking down some parts to do this. Was it just a 3/8" 3-piece ball valve and a standard male 3/8" to male 1/4" hex reducer?

 

[Horatio]

The mod is well worth it in my opinion. I've fermented 2 beers since making the mod. I pull the 3 piece ball valve apart and clean it after every fermentation has been kegged.

I'm no longer paranoid that the old little tap might be harboring any bacteria or nasties to infect my beer.
I know there'll be folks out there saying the old tap is fine and sanitary, I just beleive that this is cheap insurance on the cold side of the brewery.

Yes for the parts questions. Remember you'll have to drill out the 1/4 inch end of the hex reducer with a 10mm bit if you want to use the pickup wand. I just used my cheap bench drill and clamp so no expensive tools required there.

 

[bkboiler]

Contemplating this mod as well...are you still able to rotate the racking arm?

 

[Horatio]

Um I'm not sure as I stopped rotating the old one piece due to fear of leaks and it getting over tight so I don't rotate this 3 piece. I'm sure you could...

I'll check in a week or so as there's an Amber ale fermenting away in it ATM.

 

[Unknown99]

I've just bought some tri clamp fittings, in case I buy the brew bucket.. Seriously thinking about removing the old valve, and using the soldering option. Only fear is that the stell is too thin for soldering option. Anyone got an idea how much it would cost to get a pro to solder it on?

 

[magee_b]

Stumbled across these 3/8" x 10mm compression fittings and thought they might work for this!

Amazon Link: 3/8" NPT Male x 10MM Double Ferrule Compression Tube Fitting

Easily seems to fit the racking arm without the tiny rubber seals, and since it's a 10mm compression fitting I did not have to drill out the hex reducer nipple. You can also remove the compression fitting part, keep the rubber seals on the racking arm and it will snuggly fit in - looking just like Horatio's mod.

Both of my fermenters are full at the moment so I haven't got to try out the full assembly yet (this was just an extra SS Brewtech racking arm that I happened to have), but looks promising!

 

[Bubman]

Does the hose barb go lower than the feet? It's hard to tell from your pic.

I just ordered a Brew bucket Mini, wondering if this will work. How much longer is the 3 piece compared to the stock valve?

 

[magee_b]

Fits like a glove

 

[magee_b]

I just ordered a Brew bucket Mini, wondering if this will work. How much longer is the 3 piece compared to the stock valve?

The stock valve & barb is 2 1/4” long. The 3-piece valve & barb runs almost 4 1/4”.
I have less than an inch of clearance from the ground to the end of the barb on the 3-piece, but will be having the bucket sitting up on a shelf in my fermentation fridge, so not a concern for me.

You would definitely need to have the mini sitting up on something. I'd also be concerned about the space available for the valve in opening on the rubber stand that the mini sits on - doesn't look wide enough to me.

 

[Bubman]

The stock valve & barb is 2 1/4” long. The 3-piece valve & barb runs almost 4 1/4”.
I have less than an inch of clearance from the ground to the end of the barb on the 3-piece, but will be having the bucket sitting up on a shelf in my fermentation fridge, so not a concern for me.

You would definitely need to have the mini sitting up on something. I'd also be concerned about the space available for the valve in opening on the rubber stand that the mini sits on - doesn't look wide enough to me.

Thanks for the reply!

The bucket should be here tomorrow so I will look at the dimensions however I think you are correct regarding the opening in the base. Looks like the valve handle would be an issue.

 

[augiedoggy]

I just want to point out that a regular 2 piece ball valve is much easier to disassemble in about 10 seconds with two wrenches as the whole end unthreads and the ball pops right out. these 3 piece ball valves offer no advantage and are a lot more work to disassemble and clean. I was surprised in another thread how many people were unaware of this. honestly the oem SS valve that comes with the brewbucket shoud come apart for cleaning since the barb piece unthreads and the ball should pop out the same way which makes me wonder, how is this an actual upgrade?

 

[Bubman]

Looking at the picture on the SS site they do not show the ball being removable. I seem to remember a thread where someone did actually remove it but it was a pita. I will search for it.

https://ssbrewtech.zendesk.com/hc/e...I-break-down-the-3-8-ball-valve-for-cleaning-

Thanks for pointing this out. This valve from Brewers hardware would definitely be easy to clean!

https://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-npt-quick-clean-take-apart-ball-valve-female-male.html

 

[augiedoggy]

Looking at the picture on the SS site they do not show the ball being removable. I seem to remember a thread where someone did actually remove it but it was a pita. I will search for it.

https://ssbrewtech.zendesk.com/hc/e...I-break-down-the-3-8-ball-valve-for-cleaning-

Thanks for pointing this out. This valve from Brewers hardware would definitely be easy to clean!

https://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-npt-quick-clean-take-apart-ball-valve-female-male.html

the barb should unthread right off the end of the housing and then with the valve turned to the open position the ball should fall right out just like any 2 piece valve.. I have a bunch of these used for gas on my 3bbl brites and on mine there is a plate threaded in with an allen key/hex key thay holds the ball in.

The 3 piece seems to be more popular here because it looks more complex but its really unecessary work to pull apart and clean from what I can tell. I also upgraded all of my conical valves to butterfly valves but it seems kind of impractical for whats designed as an economical alternative to a true conical fermenter.

When the blue handled butterfly valves first went on ebay they were only $9 each so I bought like 6 before the manufacturer realized they should increase the price since everyone else sell them for $30 each

 

[Bubman]

I also upgraded all of my conical valves to butterfly valves but it seems kind of impractical for whats designed as an economical alternative to a true conical fermenter

Totally agree.

I would love to see someone make a "mini conical" of around 4 gal that would fit into a beverage cooler. I had looked at the Spike Flex but decided for me it was overkill and too pricey given it doesn't have a dump port.

 

[augiedoggy]

also those "quick clean" valves that brewers hardware and brewhardware carry come apart for cleaning exactly the same way as a regular cheaper 2 piece valve except for one difference, the quick clean comes apart with the TC fitting and the 2 piece requires a wrench to unthread the smaller end piece.

 

[magee_b]

the barb should unthread right off the end of the housing and then with the valve turned to the open position the ball should fall right out just like any 2 piece valve.. I have a bunch of these used for gas on my 3bbl brites and on mine there is a plate threaded in with an allen key/hex key thay holds the ball in.

The 3 piece seems to be more popular here because it looks more complex but its really unecessary work to pull apart and clean from what I can tell. I also upgraded all of my conical valves to butterfly valves but it seems kind of impractical for whats designed as an economical alternative to a true conical fermenter.

When the blue handled butterfly valves first went on ebay they were only $9 each so I bought like 6 before the manufacturer realized they should increase the price since everyone else sell them for $30 each

It "should" unthread - I haven't been able to do it. Maybe I'm weak?!

The two piece would've been great, but I actually got the 3/8" 3 piece for a cheaper price (and since I live across the ocean, more conveniently they were from the same vendor I happened to be ordering other things from)

My "bigger" issues (and again, not really issues that warrant anyone thinking this is a "must have" mod) were the unthreading that would happen with the standard mini ball valve, and the fact that the insides of the standard valve were rather shoddy / jagged looking. I also like to tinker.

So was it a massive problem? No... could I cheaply try out a different solution and have some fun in the process? Absolutely.

 

[lawngnomehitman]

The ball doesn't fall out, the white plastic washer that forms the seat for the ball can't escape the threads. Regardless of how you turn the blue knob, you can't get the ball and washer out. I have the 3 piece ball valves on my kettle, and mash tun, and swear by them. I bought a 3/8 3-piece ball valve and am just awaiting the parts to put this together as others have. If there's a way to get the ball out of the 2 piece valve, please show me a video or a picture with the ball removed - I don't think it's intended to be removed though.

 

[augiedoggy]

The ball doesn't fall out, the white plastic washer that forms the seat for the ball can't escape the threads. Regardless of how you turn the blue knob, you can't get the ball and washer out. I have the 3 piece ball valves on my kettle, and mash tun, and swear by them. I bought a 3/8 3-piece ball valve and am just awaiting the parts to put this together as others have. If there's a way to get the ball out of the 2 piece valve, please show me a video or a picture with the ball removed - I don't think it's intended to be removed though.

Specifically what valve are you talking about here? the ball does come out on all the different ball valves I own, its the only way to clean behind them. on the 2 piece valves the white nylon seal sits in the piece that unthreads.

 

[lawngnomehitman]

Please take a photo of one of the ssbrewtech ball valves disassembled. I also have 2 of the 7 gallon buckets, I've taken both valves apart, neither of them will release the nylon washer holding the ball in, nor the ball, regardless of how the knob/lever is turned. This is my concern/complaint, I can't get behind the washers to clean. How do you get the nylon washer out? I stopped short of pulling on it with tools because I didn't want to destroy it in the process of trying to get it out to clean it.