brekhokie's eBIAB build

[brewhokie]

I know there are a bunch of these threads already posted, but I've found the other eBIAB builds so helpful I felt compelled to give something back. I've been brewing for almost one and a half years. I've done lots of extract, partial mash recipes and around six all grain batches. I moved into a new home and given the amount of water that tends to get everywhere on a brew day, the wife and I decided our hardwood floors probably wouldn't appreciate it. I've therefore been given approval by the CFO to start a new brew system in the garage.

One of my biggest challenges with all grain brewing has been properly hitting my mash temps. Even with a cooler (hey anyone want a 10 gallon mash cooler with bulkhead?) I tended to yoyo around my mash temps. I wanted something that allowed for more repeatably and would allow me to brew more often. So, electric control seemed like an obvious first choice. I'm also somewhat space limited in my garage so a three vessel system wasn't going to work. Therefore BIAB seemed like a good compromise.

My goal for this system is to have a 11ish gallon system with easy temperature control, a small footprint, and keep costs reasonable while adding in a few bling touches here and there.

This is my proposed wiring diagram (PJ I shamelessly stole from your diagrams, thanks for your help):

This is a quick mock up of the control panel:

Let me know what you guys think, or if you have any suggestions. The UPS and FedEx men have been busy at my doorstep, so I'll have pictures posted soon.

 

[Biohazard]

Debating the same thing now, wife finally said ok, within reason. Can't wait to see more.

 

[jeffmeh]

Looks good. I'm curious though as to why you would have a switch to cut power to the PID and Timer, rather than a switch that cuts power to the whole control panel. I would also consider a 240V led that tells you when the element is actually on, and perhaps a timer reset button (although if it is easy enough to reset it on the timer itself, hardly necessary).

Have fun with it.

 

[brewhokie]

Looks good. I'm curious though as to why you would have a switch to cut power to the PID and Timer, rather than a switch that cuts power to the whole control panel. I would also consider a 240V led that tells you when the element is actually on, and perhaps a timer reset button (although if it is easy enough to reset it on the timer itself, hardly necessary).

Have fun with it.

The switch for the PID/Timer allows me to still use my pump. I figure plugging the control box into the outlet should be a sufficient control panel on off switch.

I actually picked up a different timer off eBay than the auberins one. However they both have reset buttons on the timer face. The auber timer actually has a pause and reset button on the face.

Good idea about the indicator light. I'm assuming you could use a relatively low amp 120 volt indicator light if you tied into one of the legs after the element contactor.

I also had another idea when reading a post about the braumiester. Instead of using a bag, or even a bag in a strainer basket (bayou classic); what if you used a smaller pot that fit within the brew kettle and swiss cheesed the base to make a false bottom. That way you could guarantee the grain bead acts as a filter. Recirculating would provide better filtration without the grain bed compressing and clogging the bag like some have mentioned. You could but standoffs on the bottom to keep the smaller pot above your element and drain.

Thoughts?

 

[P-J]

...

...

Please take a close look at how you have the "Element Power" switch wired. The switch indicator light will be powered on regardless of the actual switch setting. You need to power the light with 120V from the switch 'output' side.

Just a detail...

 

[P-J]

Oh... Your reasoning for the PID & Timer power switch is dead on the money.

Great decision!

 

[P-J]

Please take a close look at how you have the "Element Power" switch wired. The switch indicator light will be powered on regardless of the actual switch setting. You need to power the light with 120V from the switch 'output' side.

Just a detail...

After looknig a lot closer: You have the same issue with the switch indicator lights on the pump and the PID/Timer switches.

The switch indicator lamps are powered from the line input side instead of the switch output side.

Wishing you great success with your rig. And 'Congrats' on a sound plan for success.

 

[brewhokie]

Please take a close look at how you have the "Element Power" switch wired. The switch indicator light will be powered on regardless of the actual switch setting. You need to power the light with 120V from the switch 'output' side.

Just a detail...

Whoops, thanks for pointing out those mistakes. I'll update the wiring diagram accordingly.

 

[brewhokie]

Quick update...

Its alive! The control panel is complete and fired up without losing any of the magic smoke that powers it. I also got the Spa Panel wired up and installed. I followed PJ's instructions to the T and had no problem. Tags are in the mail, but the taped on pieces of paper give you an idea what the finished product will be.

 

[brewhokie]

Here's the finalized wiring diagram. This instructions for the Sestos timer were very poor, so if anyones has questions please let me know I played around with it for quite a while.

 

[brewhokie]

Couple of thoughts from my experience wiring up the control panel:

-I have limited electrical knowledge, but the information on HBT is very good, and very detailed. Find a friend who can check your work if your unsure. Have a healthy respect for electricity, take your time, ask lots of questions and you will be fine even without a ton of experience.

-Get a good crimper, the $10 lowes crimper a used left my hand aching for a few days

-Unless you are familiar working with metal, or have a desire to learn, buy a plastic enclosure. I bought a used metal enclosure off ebay. It's a great box, but very thick and a pain in the but to cut. You'll end up buying a bunch of new hole saw and step bits, Dremel accessories, files and spend hours picking metal splinters our of your hands. If you want to get experience working with metal go for it. I figured it was a good excuse to accumulate more tools. Just keep that in mind.

-On a similar note, wear long sleeves and good work gloves whenever cutting metal. Your hands will thank you later. Metal splinters suck and are really hard to find and remove.

-Not only do you need to size your spade terminals for the wire gauge you also have to get the proper screw size. Be especially careful of the spacing for the PID's and timers, shoot for #8 or smaller.

-The best place I found to buy terminal connectors is Radio Shack. Go straight to the parts drawers, you can get exactly what you need and there prices are pretty reasonable. Don't bother looking at Lowes or Home Depot, you'll pay way more and end up with a bunch of unused connectors.

 

[iijakii]

Looks very good. Nice work. When you breaking her in?

 

[aubiecat]

That is pretty.