Brass vs Stainless ?

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Bruno2

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I have noticed that stainless seems to be the preferred material to use when constructing a mash tun as far as valves and such go. I have a lot of brass parts sitting around and was considering using them. Does anybody have any info if this is a bad idea or not?
 
Brass works great. For a while. After a few years, it's looks terrible. It turns blackish. Otherwise, it works OK. I've changed out the brass things I did have to stainless.

I don't mind spending a few (literally) extra dollars on the SS version of everything. For those that are in the contest to do everything as cheaply as possible, brass is the way to go.
 
I see. I should probably just pony up the coin and do it right the first time.

Should the parts be cleaned with anything prior to assembly?
 
I see. I should probably just pony up the coin and do it right the first time.

Should the parts be cleaned with anything prior to assembly?

If I had brass parts I'd just use them, get my mash tun working, then at some point switch to SS. In fact, that's what I did, over about 5 years.

If you go SS, you can make it shiny at any time with Bar Keepers Friend, which you can get at the grocery store or Home Depot. But that's just for the bling. That stuff works great on copper, so it'll probably spiff up your brass too.
 
if you like the shiny sparky things all the time go for ss. my brass has worked very well. I guess after 5 years i'll have to soak it in vinegar to get it looking new again, not a issue for me to save a few bucks here and there...
 
I think it was Palmer on one of the Brewing Network podcasts. I didn't want to make that post without being about to cite a source. I was hoping someone else might chime in and confirm it.
 
I'm pretty sure I've read that that just brings more lead to the surface.

How would lead molecules work their way through the solid solution that is brass to come from the middle of the piece up to the surface? There is no source for this because there is none.
 
How would lead molecules work their way through the solid solution that is brass to come from the middle of the piece up to the surface? There is no source for this because there is none.





CORROSION / Volume 48 / Issue 12 / CORROSION ENGINEERING

Leachability of Lead from Selected Copper-Base Alloys
Corrosion 48, 1040 (1992); doi:10.5006/1.3315907 (7 pages)
J. I. Paige and B. S. Covino, Jr.

Abstract

The Bureau of Mines has conducted research on the selective leaching of lead from copper-base alloys in high-purity water. The alloys in this study were selected as representatives of those used in various plumbing system fixtures such as faucets and valves. Leaching tests were conducted for a total period of 14 days and at temperatures of 25, 50, and 75°C. An acetic acid pretreatment was used in an effort to reduce the amount of lead that was leached from the alloys. The results show that, with the exception of the more complex yellow brasses, more lead is leached into water from alloys containing greater concentrations of lead and that the rate of lead leaching decreases with exposure time. Higher temperatures had relatively little effect on the leaching of lead. Lead was preferentially dissolved from all of the alloy groups. Of the small total amount of alloy dissolved, more Pb, 10 to 59 times, was dissolved than would be predicted from the proportional quantity of Pb present in the alloy (0.1 to 7.0 wt% Pb). Typically, the amount of Pb dissolved in any given test period exceeded the Environmental Protection Agency proposed action limit of 0.015 mg∕L.

...

Effect of Pretreatment

A preliminary study was conducted on alloy C83600 to determine if the smeared Pb film could be successfully removed by a pretreatment procedure. Samples of alloy C83600 were leached in 1.2 N acetic acid for 4 h-, 8 h-, and 24-h periods. Then, the sample surfaces were examined using EDS on the SEM. The examination revealed that approximately 50% of the Pb was removed after 4 h, approximately 75% was removed after 8 h, and it was difficult to find any traces of Pb remaining after 24 h of treatment.
Based on these findings, the second series of tests was conducted in a manner identical to the first series with the exception that all alloys were preleached in 1.2 N acetic acid for 4 h and the only temperature tested was 25C. A comparison of the results for series no. 1 and no. 2 can be seen in Figure 3 and Table 3. This shows that the total amount of lead leached from most of the alloys did not decrease. In fact, the treated model alloys actually showed a substantial increase in the amount of Pb leached from the samples. However, an analysis of the percentage of lead leached during the first 24-h period shows that the pretreatment does have a positive effect. On average, one fourth of the total lead leached in 2 weeks, a reduction over non-pretreated samples, was leached out during the initial 24 h of the exposure period.
 
This is completely irrelevant. Testing done in pure water and only references corrosion, not causing bringing lead out of solution to the surface.

The fears of lead in brass to WAY overstated. However, I don't have any brass in my system.

edit: I'm no chemist and certainly water tests would probably have some relevance to wort, but ultra pure water has very different characteristics from the regular tap water we're used to.
 
I wouldn't call it "completely irrelevant," but I agree with you that "fears of lead in brass is WAY overstated." My water touches more lead on it's way to me from the municipal water supply than anything it might come into contact with in my brewery. I use stainless where the price difference is minimal, but for some items like compression fittings, I'll take my chances with brass. I worry more floride than I do about lead.
 
Tell us where, Please , as I've read the previous, ( but can't quote where:cross:)

But I'm guessin', it was in John Palmer's book.

I think it was Palmer on one of the Brewing Network podcasts. I didn't want to make that post without being about to cite a source. I was hoping someone else might chime in and confirm it.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

Palmer clearly recommends pickling your brass parts and says nothing about bringing lead out of the alloy. When he says if you do it too long and then there's more lead, that's because you've corroded all the surrounding metal away from the lead, leaving surface lead again.
 
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