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Mozart

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I'm still new to homebrewing with 4 batches brewed, two with a friend, and two flying solo. So new, in fact, that 3 of the four batches are currently fermenting, with one batch in bottles for a little over a week. Yes, the bottled batch feels a little undercarbed, but otherwise tastes great! And yes, I understand that another week or two in the bottle may well improve both carbonation and taste.

I'm thinking of trying a Koelsch next, and I'd like to turn to this forum for a little advice. I'd like to branch out by trying to create my own recipe by tweaking an existing one. For everyone's information, I've been doing extract batches with steeping grains.

I found an all-extract recipe for a Koelsch online, but since I'm used to steeping grains I'd like to continue with that process.

After playing around with an online recipe calculator, I think the following might make a decent Koelsch that the online calculator at least seems to think is true to style, but since it's my first try at tweaking rather than following a given recipe exactly, I thought I'd ask the community for feedback.

Here goes:

Batch size = 5 gallons, 2.5 gallon partial boil (60 minutes).

0.75 lb. Crystal 15 (steep at 155 degrees for 20 minutes)
5.5 lb. Extra Light DME (3 lbs. at beginning of boil, 2.5 lbs @ 15 minutes)
1.0 oz. Hallertau - 4% AA (60 minutes)
1.0 oz. Saaz - 3.5% AA (15 minutes)
One Whirlfloc tablet (15 minutes)
San Francisco Lager Yeast (WLP810)

Brewing procedure:

Bring 2 quarts steep water to 155 degrees in saucepan, steep grain for 20 minutes. While grain is steeping, bring 2 gallons of water to boil in 20 quart pot.

Add steep water to 20 quart pot, bring back to boil. Hop and add DME per schedule above.

Force cool wort in ice bath. Top up to 5 gallons.

Pitch yeast at 70-75 degrees. Hold at this temp until fermentation begins (or overnight).

Ferment at 63 degrees for 7-10 days.
One day diacetyl rest at 65-68 degrees.
Frement an addtional week at 60-63 degrees.

Bottle with 5 oz. dextrose (may consider cold crashing with gelatin prior to bottling, though I haven't tried this yet).

A simple, tasty, session-style Koelsch for summer? That's what I'm shooting for at any rate, and would appreciate any feedback.

Cheers!
 
A kolsh is actually an ale,but fermented with yeast that produces lager-like qualities. I used the White Labs WL029 German ale/kolsh yeast to make light & dark versions. It produces a lager-like finish while brewing @ an ideal range of 65-69F! They were right about the lager-like qualities. Mine was partial mash though. Even half a pound of crystal 10L would work well. you don't want the crystal making it too sweet. The extra light plain DME is a good choice,imo. Haulertauer mittelfruh & saaz are good choices as well.
 
This is not a Kolsch for a couple of reasons set out below. I'm not sure what calculator you are using, but keep in mind that most online calculators simply give you information about the numerical values you are shooting. There is a lot more to a beer than the numbers. I suggest looking at the style guidelines at www.bjcp.org. Those give you more information about what the typical ingredients are. Anyway, here is why I think the beer is not a kolsch:

First, a Kolsch uses an ale yeast, not a lager yeast. You need to pick an ale yeast. My view is that you should use either one of the Kolsch yeasts (if you want to use liquid yeast) or US-05 if you want to use dry yeast. The yeast you are suggesting will not give you the clean finish you really want for a kolsch.

Second, adding crystal puts the recipe out of style (in my opinion). Commercial Kolsches from Germany are almost all 100% Pilsner malt. Commercial brewers in the US often add a bit of wheat to the brew, but crystal malt is simply out of place.

I am of the opinion that it is very difficult to make an extract Kolsch. The reason is that a Kolsch is supposed to be highly attenuated (e.g., with an OG of 1.050, you want the FG to be at or below 1.010). To get high attenuation, the grains need to be mashed at relatively low temps (e.g. 149 degrees), and commercial extracts are not generally mashed low. The result is that you will not get extremely high attenuation from extract brews. That being said, if you want to make a kolsch from extract, I would suggest altering your recipe as follows:
  • Get rid of the crystal
  • Replace the Extra Light DME with Pilsner extract
  • Reduce the 15 minute hop addition to .5 oz
  • Replace the yeast with one of the suggestions above
  • Pitch the yeast only after the wort is below 70 degrees
  • Ferment for three weeks at 63 degrees
  • Cold condition (at normal refrigerator temps) for two weeks
  • Bottle

It is hard to do any steeping grains with a Kolsch, because the grains should all be base malt and those can't be steeped (they need to be mashed).

If you want a brew that is similar to a kolsch that can include some crystal (allowing steeping grains), I would look at doing a blonde ale.
 
For everyone's information, I've been doing extract batches with steeping grains.

I found an all-extract recipe for a Koelsch online, but since I'm used to steeping grains I'd like to continue with that process.


I don't know, but I think you might be making an invalid premise that extract without steeping grain is by definition less than extract with steeping grain..

Steeping grain adds the specialty flavor grains that are usually mashed with the base grains that aren't included in the extract. But if a beer is, as I believe Koelsch is, a single base grain that doesn't have any specialty grain in the first place...

On the other hand, we've got people on these forums who consider extract to be the equivalent of instant soup, to which adding a sprig of basil and a slice of fresh tomato can't help but improve.
 
Looks like you're in it to win it. Brew what you want. It's the reason we homebrew. Don't get hung up on "style profiles" unless you're having your beer judged. I think your beer will be good.

Like uniondr said... the German Kolsch yeast would be better suited if you want a Kolsch. But you can use the SF Lager yeast. It will have more of an early American Lager/Pilsner flavor (California Common Style), instead of a German Kolsch flavor. But it too can be fermented at ale temps and gives off a sweeter Lager flavor profile.

Gary
 
Looks like you're in it to win it. Brew what you want. It's the reason we homebrew. Don't get hung up on "style profiles" unless you're having your beer judged. I think your beer will be good.

Like uniondr said... the German Kolsch yeast would be better suited if you want a Kolsch. But you can use the SF Lager yeast. It will have more of an early American Lager/Pilsner flavor (California Common Style), instead of a German Kolsch flavor. But it too can be fermented at ale temps and gives off a sweeter Lager flavor profile.

Gary

I agree that you don't need to worry about the style profiles too much. My point was simply that if the goal is to brew a beer that will resemble commercial kolsches, the guidelines are a good jumping off point.
 
That WL029 yeast is said to be from a small brewpub in Cologne,Germany. I love it for the ideal temp range being easier to deal with. And that little bit of crystal 10L might not be exactly to style with what some believe,but it sure tastes good properly attenuated at the right temps. I'm drinking a dark one now that's def crisp & refreshing after a clean up the brewhause day.
 
Looks like you're in it to win it. Brew what you want. It's the reason we homebrew. Don't get hung up on "style profiles" unless you're having your beer judged. I think your beer will be good.

Like uniondr said... the German Kolsch yeast would be better suited if you want a Kolsch. But you can use the SF Lager yeast. It will have more of an early American Lager/Pilsner flavor (California Common Style), instead of a German Kolsch flavor. But it too can be fermented at ale temps and gives off a sweeter Lager flavor profile.

Gary

Thanks for all of the feedback everyone! If I do this, I think I will switch to the Kolsch yeast and perhaps nix the steeping grains (and perhaps not).

On the one hand, I'm not a purist when it comes to being true to style, and don't mind experimenting with my beer. On the other, the friend that got me into homebrewing wants to enter a beer in a competition/judging this coming September. Given that I need time to brew, ferment and properly age, I figure we'd better have our plan/recipe set by July.

I'd like to try as many different varieties as I can between now and then to determine what kind of style to brew, and I thought a Koelsch might be one of them.

Given the apparent difficulties in getting a "true" Koelsch from extract, however, perhaps I'll just make this one for the enjoyment of it and focus on something else for September.

Thanks again!

Cheers!
 
I agree that you don't need to worry about the style profiles too much. My point was simply that if the goal is to brew a beer that will resemble commercial kolsches, the guidelines are a good jumping off point.

That is a good point my friend. Didn't mean to "cut you off" on that answer I gave. :) I too consult the style profiles for info on certain beers I want to brew. :)

Gary
 
I had a happy accident while brewing up a partial mash version (1st try) of my Sunset gold APA. Used NZ hops & Cooper's ale yeast. color & flavors were interesting. So I changed the yeast,hops & 1 or 2 others to make a "pseudo lager" as many called them. I renamed it "hybrid lager",as I thought the name more accurate to what we were attempting to accomplish.
The WL029 yeast was the most logical choice. worked out quite well,as the lighter colored version tasted like Heineken without the skunking,pretty much. The dark one gets better & crisper with age. Especially with the chilly weather lately.
 
Second, adding crystal puts the recipe out of style (in my opinion). Commercial Kolsches from Germany are almost all 100% Pilsner malt. Commercial brewers in the US often add a bit of wheat to the brew, but crystal malt is simply out of place.

It is hard to do any steeping grains with a Kolsch, because the grains should all be base malt and those can't be steeped (they need to be mashed).

If you want a brew that is similar to a kolsch that can include some crystal (allowing steeping grains), I would look at doing a blonde ale.

Thank you very much for the feedback! It's how noobs like me learn.

And I guess I need to learn more about Crystal Malt, what it is, and what it replaces.

I've read that it is a specialty grain that is processed to produce fermentable sugars when steeped as opposed to mashing the grain (something I have just started reading about).

If I wanted to brew a truer to style Koelsch, you suggested just using Pilsner malt extract and hops -- ok, I *think* I get it, or the reason for it. It's that whatever kind of grain Crystal is, it isn't Pilsner, so I'm better off, if I'm concerned about being true to style, using the proper extract than an improper specialty grain, correct?

You suggested that if I was going to do the same recipe with steeping grains, it'd be a Blonde Ale. I think this is starting to make sense, as per the guidelines, Blonde Ale is generally all malt, and Crystal is a malt (even if a specialty grain), yes?

And this is leading to another question. I'm thinking of brewing a Weizen, perhaps for a competition in September. After reading the BJCP style guidelines (thanks for the link!), under ingredients, to paraphrase, it says 50-70% wheat, with the balance being Pilsner malt. So if I wanted to create a recipe true to style without mashing, I'd want to use a mix of Wheat DME, Pilsner DME, and hop according to style without any specialty grains?

Or are there specialty grains designed to replace/replicate Pilsner malt or Vienna malt (if I want, say, to brew a Dunkelweizen)?

Thanks for any help anyone might be able to give. I've tried doing some web research on these questions, but I haven't turned up much that has been very helpful to me.

Cheers!
 
Crystals malts are basically 2row Kilned to different levels of roastedness. The wheat DME should already be a percentage of wheat and 2row. Most I think are 60-65% wheat and the rest of the percentage is barley.
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned using carapils for the Koelsch. It'll give you some more head retention and a little body without changing the flavor of the base malt too much. I'd strike the crystal from your original recipe and use maybe 1/2 a lb of the carapils. Swap the light ME for Pilsner, and I think you're pretty much there.
 
Thank you very much for the feedback! It's how noobs like me learn.

And I guess I need to learn more about Crystal Malt, what it is, and what it replaces.

I've read that it is a specialty grain that is processed to produce fermentable sugars when steeped as opposed to mashing the grain (something I have just started reading about).

If I wanted to brew a truer to style Koelsch, you suggested just using Pilsner malt extract and hops -- ok, I *think* I get it, or the reason for it. It's that whatever kind of grain Crystal is, it isn't Pilsner, so I'm better off, if I'm concerned about being true to style, using the proper extract than an improper specialty grain, correct?

You suggested that if I was going to do the same recipe with steeping grains, it'd be a Blonde Ale. I think this is starting to make sense, as per the guidelines, Blonde Ale is generally all malt, and Crystal is a malt (even if a specialty grain), yes?

And this is leading to another question. I'm thinking of brewing a Weizen, perhaps for a competition in September. After reading the BJCP style guidelines (thanks for the link!), under ingredients, to paraphrase, it says 50-70% wheat, with the balance being Pilsner malt. So if I wanted to create a recipe true to style without mashing, I'd want to use a mix of Wheat DME, Pilsner DME, and hop according to style without any specialty grains?

Or are there specialty grains designed to replace/replicate Pilsner malt or Vienna malt (if I want, say, to brew a Dunkelweizen)?

Thanks for any help anyone might be able to give. I've tried doing some web research on these questions, but I haven't turned up much that has been very helpful to me.

Cheers!

I am going to try to address your questions in turn. Let me know if things are not addressed.

I would suggest picking up a copy of How To Brew by Palmer (you can access the first edition at www.howtobrew.com, but I suggest buying the paper version that is more up to date). It provides a lot of good information about brewing and about the different grains specifically.

There are may categories of grains. I tend to think in terms of a few large groups of malt (I will not get into adjuncts or wheat for now): (1) base malts, (2) quasi-base kilned malts, (3) crystal/caramel malt, and (4) roasted malts (and barley). Each of these categories serve different purposes and the specific grains within each category are different.

Base malts include things like brewer's 2-Row malt, pilsner malt, and pale malt. These are the types of malt that will serve as the backbone of the vast majority of beers. The different malts within this group have distinct flavor profiles. Brewer's 2-Row is what I think of as plain vanilla neutral grain. Pilsner malt has a unique flavor that I tend to think of as a bit fruity. I bet others can describe it better. All of these grains have to be mashed; steeping them will not do any good.

Quasi-base kilned malts include things like Munich Malt, Vienna Malt, and Biscuit Malt. These malts tend to enhance the "malty" character of the beer without adding sweetness. I have heard of people using Munich and/or Vienna malt as the base for certain beers. I tend to use these malts as up to about 33 percent of my mash to give a fuller malt flavor, and Munich is an ingredient in most of my recipes. These need to be mashed.

Crystal/caramel malts go through a stewing process that converts the starches into sugars during the malting process. These brews will generally add a "sweet" flavor to your beer. They also tend to add a fuller mouth feel because there are non-fermentable sugars. The different colors have very different flavors. These can be steeped.

Roasted malts/barley are the dark grains (e.g., chocolate malt, black malt, roasted barley). These are the grains used in stouts and porters (and in smaller quantities in reds and other mid-color beers). These add a variety of flavors. These can be steeped.

Now, to your specific questions. I suggested using Pilsner DME instead of Extra Light DME because of the differences in base malts. I am guessing that Extra Light DME is created from 2-Row, while Pilsner DME is created using Pilsner malt. This has nothing to do with the crystal malt issue. I was simply suggesting getting an extract made with pilsner, not 2-Row.

The reason I suggested a Blonde Ale is because that is a bit more diverse style by the guidelines. In many ways, the kolsch style is pretty unique because the original commercial varieties create a pretty narrow style. As I mentioned in my first post, the original commercial varieties were almost all 100 percent pilsner malt. And the variety in US brewers is to add wheat (which also has to be mashed). Blonde ales are a bit more all over the board, so you can create a blonde that that uses some crystal (I include some in my version). Again, this is really just a matter of what you call it and whether someone who knows beer will recognize what you brewed as matching the style. The issue of "all malt" in the guidelines is really saying not to use wheat.

As someone else pointed out, wheat extract will already be a mix of wheat and barley, so for a weizen, you would probably just use wheat extract.
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned using carapils for the Koelsch. It'll give you some more head retention and a little body without changing the flavor of the base malt too much. I'd strike the crystal from your original recipe and use maybe 1/2 a lb of the carapils. Swap the light ME for Pilsner, and I think you're pretty much there.

This is one idea, but I am pretty sure that most Pilsner extract will be made with a combination of pilsner and carapils. So, I'm not sure you need to add carapils.
 
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