Brainstorming for a keezer build, looking for ideas/recommendations, etc

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QTikiBrew

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So, a few months back, I was musing on how I would get a chest freezer into our basement, because I didn't want to put it in the garage - it's detached.

The wife suggested putting it on our enclosed three season patio (last owner bricked it over, walled and roofed it, and put windows all around - the walls are mostly windows).

We'd discussed trying to turn the patio into a sort of "tiki" bar, and, given the bric a brac I have from various deployments, we hit on a beachcomber/trader concept - no tikis, moai, or aku will be used in the place, but nautical stuff, maybe a few nets, some glass fish floats, etc.

I was rather surprised and delighted that she'd be okay with putting a keezer on the patio.

Looked at a few freezers on Craigslist, etc, and then COVID-19 happened, I had to go away for a month or more, and, when I get home, it's unlikely there will be any freezers in stock in the greater Boston area.

Which gives me a lot of time for planning!

There are two builds I like: TheUrbanOutdoorsman's "easy load" and Process Brewing's two board fascia build.

I like the split top for easy loading (26 years of service is finally beating my body apart with a bulging disc), and I like the 1x8 bolted to an inner collar concept, as well - before anyone asks, I'm not sure why, maybe it's the idea of the overhang providing stability for the collar against the body of the freezer (besides liquid nails, what else, when not using a double collar, prevents the collar from sliding backward when you lift the lid?).

However - I'm also considering adding a Rocket Pump for cask ale, and as far as I can tell, that pump has to be mounted on a horizontal surface.

My thought is to cut the front face 1x8 board so that it has an exposed "tail", possibly as long as its width plus thickness (8.75) to which I'd attach a 7.25x7.25 square projecting backwards, attached to the front face - essentially making a four-sided box (front face, extra side panel, top deck, side fascia/collar;

Some futzing around in sketchup (which I just taught myself to use in the last four hours) makes me think that first ofF - combining the doubled collar with the easy-load might result in a LOT of wood to move when lifting the lid.

Hopefully I've figured out how to attach the pictures:
First up is what it looks like with an inner 2x6 collar, with a 3-sided out fascia of 1x8, and a cask box (DC-EL-CB)
Second is just the easy load 2x8 on three sides fronted by a 1x8, with a cask box (EL-CB)
DC-EL-CB.JPG
EL-CB.JPG
 

videojunkie1208

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If you're going for nautical, what about planking the outside of the freezer, making it look like a shipping crate or something. That way your collar can attach to the outside, not the inside.

As for the pump, I've seen plans where there was a small shelf built in along the back wall of the keezer.
 
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QTikiBrew

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So, I'm not too interested in completely covering the body of the freezer with anything that would provide insulation on the outer walls.

An inner shelf doesn't really help when I need the handle of the pump to be outside the freezer.

Something like this top mounted pump to start, with an idea to eventually buy or build a swan neck for a fully enclosed beer engine made from the Rocket Pump.
 
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QTikiBrew

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So, I've ordered the Hotpoint 7.0 cu ft freezer (backordered til August).

If I've read the online information correctly, the floor is 23 3/4 x 15, the compressor hump is 7 1/2 x 15.
Thanks to the last owner of my house (40+ year union sheet metal worker) I've got soapstone drawing sticks, so I drew those dimensions on my basement floor - looks like, of the used cornys I have, I can only fit four, even with a collar: 1 with a 2' 3.5" circumference, 2 with a 2' 3.75" circ, , 1 with a 2' 4" circ.

That works out to 1 - 8.75" diameter, 2 - 8.83" diameter, 1 - 8.91" diameter.

Now, I've been considering buying Slim Line Torpedo kegs from MoreBeer, in 1.5G and 2.5G, so that I could fit in more than the max 5 gallon cornys my keezer will hold - this revelation cinches that decision.

I've been talking with SWMBConsulted, and I'm looking into fermenting in my corny kegs, and naturally carbonating (especially when I consider making cask ale), so the "fat" 5 gallon kegs will be great fermenting vessels as well storage for transfer to smaller serving kegs.
 
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QTikiBrew

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Given the freezer I ordered, I played around in sketchup with what the official external dimensions are (I WILL double check those measurement when it's on the ground, twice!), and using The UrbanOutdoorsMan's easy load configuration,, plus my idea of a side box for a cask pump, here's what I've got so far.

While futzing around I heard my late father's voice in my head while i was measuring pieces for that side box:
"So, you extended the front fascia, which is a 1x8, 7.25 inches so it's square when looked at with the side plate?"
"Yep."
"And the side plate is a 1x8 ripped to a square of 7.25x7.25?"
"Yep."
"So. The top plate, which you're cutting from a 1x8 . . . needs to be 7.25 MINUS .75, by 7.25? Or do you want the front fascia and side plate, when viewed from the right, to be square? Meaning cutting the side plate to be 6.5 inches long . . . and the top plate has be to 6.5 by 6.5? So you not only have to cut the board's length, but rip its width, too? Do you have a table saw?"
"Ye . . . fu . . . [email protected]#$%!!!"
"You could go with the sideplate being full board width high by full board width long - and do the same with the top plate, IF you extend the front fascia length by board width PLUS thickness."
"Hmm."

FRONT_VIEW.JPGLEFT_SIDE_VIEW.JPGRIGHT_SIDE_VIEW.JPGBACK_VIEW.JPGTOP_DOWN.JPGCLOSE-UP_OF_PUMP_MOUNT_FROM_BEHIND.JPG
 
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QTikiBrew

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I know. I'm more than willing to take that risk, as I most definitely want to be able to run a beer engine - even if it's one based on the rocket pump for RVs.

Given that I've seen builds that incorporate a set of shelves in the side, this seems like a minor issue.
 

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