Bought a used wort chiller. How should I clean it for first use?

[BansheeRider]

Hello brewers!!!

I just got a great deal on a used wort chiller that was originally purchased at my LHBS. It's 25' of 3/8 copper tubing. It looks clean, however looks aren't everything and I'm wondering what's the best method for cleaning a wort chiller is. Is there any special solutions that I should use, like vinegar, bleach, water???? Or should I just clean it with soap and water and sanitize before brew day? I also read that copper has a natural barrier between bacteria and the copper. Maybe I'm just being OCD.

Another question I had is about boiling the chiller. I know some people put it in the boil during the last 15 min. My issue is that I like to use late additions of extract during the last 15 min. Also sometimes the recipe calls for more hops during the last few minutes. How does this work when you have a huge piece of copper in your BK?

Cold break....this is the main reason I purchased this chiller. I wanted a better cold break so I can have clearer beer. So...after chilling do you let the wort settle in the kettle before dumping into the bucket? Do you leave the cold break material behind in the BK or will a paint strainer bag catch it? I do use the paint strainer bag but I'm not sure if it stops the cold break material. Also my bag always gets clogged during the pour because of hops and other crap. I do use whirlfloc in every batch.

Thanks and sorry for the newbie questions.

 

[WDT]

Welcome, throw the thing in boiling water prior to actually using it to brew. I never really spend much time "cleaning" mine. I just make sure it's rinsed off good and no visible gunk on it.

As for when to throw it in.... whenever. I just throw it in with at least 15 min in the boil. Sometimes I put it in with 30 left. It's somwthing I don't keep track of anymore. Any critters on there will be gone from the boil. Just make sure you connect your hoses up and do a trial run on the thing. You don't want to spring a leak during chilling.

 

[b-boy]

Most organisms do not like copper, but I wouldn't rely on that too much. I always soak mine in starsan prior to putting it in the boil kettle. It makes it nice and shiney. You don't want any of the green stuff that forms on aged copper in your beer.

I just leave the trub in the kettle. I don't bother filtering anything out. Just leave behind as much as you can.

 

[meltroha]

I clean mine when there's enough sticky gunk that it sticks to my hand. Seriously, I rinse mine with the output house after cooling, before I turn house off, then store & just put in at 15 next brew.

 

[BansheeRider]

Sounds good! I'll just soak in StarSan before the first use. After using it ill hose it off, dry, then store it in a trash bag or something to keep it clean. Do you think boiling for 2-5 min will be enough? Or should I throw it in with my extract, whirlfloc, and what ever hops at 15 min?

 

[b-boy]

Sounds good! I'll just soak in StarSan before the first use. After using it ill hose it off, dry, then store it in a trash bag or something to keep it clean. Do you think boiling for 2-5 min will be enough? Or should I throw it in with my extract, whirlfloc, and what ever hops at 15 min?

You should put it in with 10-15 minutes to go.

 

[Dr. Francois]

Sounds good! I'll just soak in StarSan before the first use. After using it ill hose it off, dry, then store it in a trash bag or something to keep it clean. Do you think boiling for 2-5 min will be enough? Or should I throw it in with my extract, whirlfloc, and what ever hops at 15 min?

The boil usually tames when I add the chiller. I add it in at about 17 minutes so I can get the boil back up for a 15 minute hop addition.

 

[BigFloyd]

The boil usually tames when I add the chiller. I add it in at about 17 minutes so I can get the boil back up for a 15 minute hop addition.

This ^^^^. Also kick the fire up right after putting the chiller in to get it boiling again and then back it down.

A 2-3 minute immersion isn't considered sufficient to insure that the chiller has been sanitized. I'm confident with 15 minutes in boiling wort.

I switch from my big metal spoon to a plastic one once the chiller is in so as not to beat up the softer copper.

After you have chilled and removed the chiller from the kettle, cover it w/ sanitized lid and let it sit 15 minutes. This gives the break material and other gunk a chance to settle out so that much less of it ends up in your fermenter.

 

[LKABrewer]

For the first use i would clean with soap and water to get any oils from manufacturing off.

 

[petey_c]

Drop it in with 15 minutes to go, along with additions and Whirlfloc. Hose it down with the shower spray thing after I'm done to rinse away any "klingons" and then blow the water out of the insides. Also you might wanna check the tightness of your hose clamps to be on the safe side. Pete

 

[BansheeRider]

For the first use i would clean with soap and water to get any oils from manufacturing off.

I bought it used off CL.

Drop it in with 15 minutes to go, along with additions and Whirlfloc. Hose it down with the shower spray thing after I'm done to rinse away any "klingons" and then blow the water out of the insides. Also you might wanna check the tightness of your hose clamps to be on the safe side. Pete

Awesome thanks. I have it soaking in oxiclean now, that should get any nasty stuff off it. The chiller is in great condition but looks very dirty.

 

[JRapp]

Vocab word of the day?

Verdigris= The green stuff that forms on copper, usually a form of corrosion when exposed to weather, salt water or some form of acetic acid.

Also thanks, I was about to buy one of CL or figure out how to make one within the next week, I am waiting for 5 gallons to cool at this moment and its taking much too long.

 

[BigFloyd]

Here you go. I'm quite pleased with the speed at which this one chills. Hose water down to 85*F, then I start recirculating ice water through it with a pump sitting inside a cooler. Last brew, I pitched a Munich lager at 48*F.

[URL=http://s289.photobucket.com/user/COD4Special_K/media/kettleandchiller-s_zpsafa76cd5.jpg.html] [/URL]

 

[b-boy]

Starsan makes copper shiney?

Yep. Like a brand new penny!

 

[CrystalShip]

This ^^^^. Also kick the fire up right after putting the chiller in to get it boiling again and then back it down.

A 2-3 minute immersion isn't considered sufficient to insure that the chiller has been sanitized. I'm confident with 15 minutes in boiling wort.

I switch from my big metal spoon to a plastic one once the chiller is in so as not to beat up the softer copper.

After you have chilled and removed the chiller from the kettle, cover it w/ sanitized lid and let it sit 15 minutes. This gives the break material and other gunk a chance to settle out so that much less of it ends up in your fermenter.

I was thinking about this last night... I always add the wort chiller at 10-15 min remaining in the boil, but it's a 50' coil and it kills the boil (which is annoying). Why is 2-3min at 212+ degrees not sufficient for sanitization? I was thinking about just adding the chiller at flameout because the wort is still at 212 (at least)

 

[BigFloyd]

I was thinking about this last night... I always add the wort chiller at 10-15 min remaining in the boil, but it's a 50' coil and it kills the boil (which is annoying). Why is 2-3min at 212+ degrees not sufficient for sanitization? I was thinking about just adding the chiller at flameout because the wort is still at 212 (at least)

It's a matter of time and temperature working together. I'd be concerned about some microscopic organisms surviving on the chiller if you waited until flame out.

 

[CrystalShip]

It's a matter of time and temperature working together. I'd be concerned about some microscopic organisms surviving on the chiller if you waited until flame out.

Thanks, for the reply. I did a little google search to see if I could find a time and temp chart for sanitization. This is what I found on the University of Florida school of food science website:

Hot Water
Hot-water sanitizing--through immersion (small parts, knives, etc.), spray (dishwashers), or circulating systems--is commonly used. The time required is determined by the temperature of the water. Typical regulatory requirements (Food Code 1995) for use of hot water in dishwashing and utensil sanitizing applications specify immersion for at least 30 sec. at 77°C (170°F) for manual operations; and a final rinse temperature of 74°C (165°F) in single tank, single temperature machines and 82°C (180°F) for other machines.

Many state regulations require a utensil surface temperature of 71°C (160°F), as measured by an irreversibly registering temperature indicator in warewashing machines. Recommendations and requirements for hot-water sanitizing in food processing may vary. The Grade A Pasteurized Milk Ordinance specifies a minimum of 77°C (170°F) for 5 min. Other recommendations for processing operations are 85°C (185°F) for 15 min., or 80°C (176°F) for 20 min.

The primary advantages of hot-water sanitization are relatively inexpensive, easy to apply, and readily available, generally effective over a broad range of microorganisms, relatively non-corrosive, and penetrates into cracks and crevices. Hot-water sanitization is a slow process that requires come-up and cool-down time; can have high energy costs; and has certain safety concerns for employees. The process also has the disadvantages of forming or contributing to film formations and shortening the life of certain equipment or parts thereof (gaskets, etc.).

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fs077

...looks like the chiller could be added at flameout and would be sanitized just fine.

 

[freisste]

I add mine at flameout and have never had an issue. This is certainly NOT proof that it is 100% acceptable, but anecdotal evidence is often useful...

Take it with a grain of salt.


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[CrystalShip]

I've gone through many sources from my google search and the most commonly accepted time and temp is immersion in at least 171F for 30 seconds. -

 

[freisste]

I've gone through many sources from my google search and the most commonly accepted time and temp is immersion in at least 171F for 30 seconds. -

So the question is this:

Are you boiling enough so that inserting your IC does not drop the temp of your wort below 170. If so, I would argue it is fine. If not (your wort DOES drop below 170), I would still think it is fine, but would be interested in some more info.

The final answer is that it is more acceptable for larger boils and at some point there is not enough wort to sanitize by simply dropping it in at flameout.


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[CrystalShip]

So the question is this:

Are you boiling enough so that inserting your IC does not drop the temp of your wort below 170. If so, I would argue it is fine. If not (your wort DOES drop below 170), I would still think it is fine, but would be interested in some more info.

The final answer is that it is more acceptable for larger boils and at some point there is not enough wort to sanitize by simply dropping it in at flameout.


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I haven't done it yet, but I would be shocked if adding an immersion chiller (before turning on the water) would drop the temp of 5+ gallons of wort 42degrees in less than 30seconds.

 

[jiMithing83]

I clean mine with everything else pre-boil with oxiclean (free), then sanitize right before the end of the boil with starsan. I do not put my WC in the wort until the boil is over. Not saying it's wrong to do so, just that I do not.

 

[ArcLight]

To lessen the killing of the boil I out the chiller in a pot that I fill with hot tap water for 15 minutes before I put it in the pot (for the last 15 minutes of the boil).
This raises the temperature of the coils and rinses off any crud.

I also boil for a minute longer (when my timer calls for 15 minute additions)

 

[placated]

Since I always have about 5 gals of starsan in my fermentor waiting when I'm brewing, I always dunk the thing in the bucket for a couple mins, then into the wort at flameout. Probably unnecessary but it gives me the warm fuzzys.


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[CrystalShip]

...yea after reading about food-safe sanitizing practices on numerous university and food safety organization's websites, I think I am done boiling the thing and will just add it at flameout