bigdawg86
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- May 1, 2017
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I am in the process of getting a 3 tap keezer put together. In my research for determining beer lines, keg pressure to carb, and dispensing pressure I came across what I would consider an inconsistency in the beer theory.
1.) When force carbing a keg, the beer has to be at temperature in order to absorb C02 properly.
12 PSI @ 34 degrees should get you carbed in 2 weeks, but it would take 30 PSI to do the same at room temperature.
2.) When bottle carbing "put it in a warmer closet so it carb faster".
I understand that a warmer climate good to get the yeast active so they produce the C02, but then what? By the logic above in #1 you won't properly bottle carb your beer unless the bottle pressure was also in the 30PSI range. Wouldn't you then need to cold condition the bottles for a week or two so that the C02 in the headspace can then dissolve into solution?
I guess I am not sure what to do with an IPA I bottled close to 1 month ago. Should I leave it in a closet until ready to drink? Should I store in keezer? If so, when?
1.) When force carbing a keg, the beer has to be at temperature in order to absorb C02 properly.
12 PSI @ 34 degrees should get you carbed in 2 weeks, but it would take 30 PSI to do the same at room temperature.
2.) When bottle carbing "put it in a warmer closet so it carb faster".
I understand that a warmer climate good to get the yeast active so they produce the C02, but then what? By the logic above in #1 you won't properly bottle carb your beer unless the bottle pressure was also in the 30PSI range. Wouldn't you then need to cold condition the bottles for a week or two so that the C02 in the headspace can then dissolve into solution?
I guess I am not sure what to do with an IPA I bottled close to 1 month ago. Should I leave it in a closet until ready to drink? Should I store in keezer? If so, when?