Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

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superiorsat

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I see Brian recommends in his video not using until after your done with the hot break. That is my experience as well but I have not seen much if any mention of that on this thread( not that I've read every single post, just in and out from time to time) . Wondering if this is a consensus. I've only used my steam slayer ( 1.5" wide body ) half a dozen times just because everything is easier with out it and my all plywood brew garage can handle the moisture of my brew day with a fan and exhaust of moist air with additional make up air. Has anyone ever used 2 steam condensers on large kettles? I had my buddy weld 2- 1.5" triclamp ferrules onto the lid of my 100 gallon brew kettle thinking this might be a needed solution in my near future should things go as planed. Welded 1 onto my 20 gallon kettle just for testing purposes. Pretty sure I did the 9 GPH sprayer thinking I could upgrade or do a second Slayer or do larger GPH on both if needed. Bobby would probably have an idea if 2 would work or not but it would help balance the lid haha.
 
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With appropriate automation (translated: ramp heating), you can brew with the lid on the whole time. I have always used fermcap myself as extra protection, but I know it is not used or considered verboten by many. If you have a large enough headspace, and you approach boiling temperature slowly, you can leave the condenser in place and turn it on once a legit boil is about to start.

Yes, two steam condensers will work. At the end of the day, pulling heat out of the steam is the key - whether its done with one big nozzle or multiple smaller ones doesn't matter much. That said, there is a point of diminishing returns of just putting a bigger nozzle in a condenser... you don't want water hitting the walls of the tube without mixing with the steam first - that is an inefficiency.
 

WESBREW

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I wonder, would a larger tube diameter be better for a bigger system than two 1.5s?. I'm using a 1.5/2.0 T with a 9gal sprayer on my 15g kettle and its perfect.
 

superiorsat

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Looks like this is 3 Inch. I would have no good way of handling my lid with something this big on it. That is why I put 2 -1.5" triclamp ferrules on my lid ( on opposite sides for balancing purposes ) thinking 2 steam slayers is basically equivalent to a 3" suction and maybe a little more due to wide body construction of the wide body steam slayers.
Condenser | for 2-4 BBL Dome Top Brew Kettles

  • 3 bbl brew kettle with dome top and condenser
  • condenser that can be used with 3 bbl dome top brew kettle
  • close up of the water jet on a steam condenser used on 3bbl dome top brew kettles
  • Another close up of the water jet on a steam condenser used on 3bbl dome top brew kettles
Condenser | for 2-4 BBL Dome Top Brew Kettles
SKU SP700CONDENSER
This stainless steel Condensor is used at installations where it is not permitted or possible to vent the brew kettle steam to the outside via a steam vent stack. It is designed specifically for 2-4 barrels Dome Top Brew Kettles and features:
  • A candy cane shape that eliminates the steam vent by condensing the steam to water and draining to the floor.
  • Condenser pipe
  • 3 Tri Clamp adapters with 1/4-in. NPT Female threads with clamps
 

doug293cz

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Looks like this is 3 Inch. I would have no good way of handling my lid with something this big on it. That is why I put 2 -1.5" triclamp ferrules on my lid ( on opposite sides for balancing purposes ) thinking 2 steam slayers is basically equivalent to a 3" suction and maybe a little more due to wide body construction of the wide body steam slayers.
Condenser | for 2-4 BBL Dome Top Brew Kettles

  • 3 bbl brew kettle with dome top and condenser
  • condenser that can be used with 3 bbl dome top brew kettle
  • close up of the water jet on a steam condenser used on 3bbl dome top brew kettles
  • Another close up of the water jet on a steam condenser used on 3bbl dome top brew kettles
Condenser | for 2-4 BBL Dome Top Brew Kettles
SKU SP700CONDENSER
This stainless steel Condensor is used at installations where it is not permitted or possible to vent the brew kettle steam to the outside via a steam vent stack. It is designed specifically for 2-4 barrels Dome Top Brew Kettles and features:
  • A candy cane shape that eliminates the steam vent by condensing the steam to water and draining to the floor.
  • Condenser pipe
  • 3 Tri Clamp adapters with 1/4-in. NPT Female threads with clamps
A 3" ID tube has 4X the cross sectional area of a 1.5" ID tube. So, 2X - 1.5" is roughly equivalent to 1/2 - 3". Nozzle choice and water flow rate could shift the capacity ratio.

Brew on :mug:
 

superiorsat

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A 3" ID tube has 4X the cross sectional area of a 1.5" ID tube. So, 2X - 1.5" is roughly equivalent to 1/2 - 3". Nozzle choice and water flow rate could shift the capacity ratio.

Brew on :mug:
That makes sense. Not sure how the Wide Body Steam Slayer( 3" spray chamber) comes into the equation. BH used to have a 2" version for larger kettles, but at the time I was ready to pull the trigger they only offered the Wide Body version as the solution for larger kettles along with options for larger GPH sprayer nozzles. If I did 2 of these 3" wide Body that would be 3" chamber x 2 obviously. If I go bigger than 9 GPH nozzles it would theoretically pull more steam through the 1.5" openings and guessing that the 2- 3" chambers would also pull more through the 1.5" openings. Eventually I will have to test to know for sure.

Description
This is the new WIDE-BODY edition of the product. The larger 3" diameter spraying chamber maximizes cooling efficiency while keeping the steam entrance port at a standard 1.5" TC. This unit is better for 15 gallon and larger batch sizes or for 10 gallon batches where the source water is typically above 80F.
 
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Bobby_M

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I wonder, would a larger tube diameter be better for a bigger system than two 1.5s?. I'm using a 1.5/2.0 T with a 9gal sprayer on my 15g kettle and its perfect.
Yes, I have a wide body version that uses a 3" diameter chamber and it is about 30% more efficient at the same sprayer rate.

Oops, I hit reply before I read the rest of the posts....
 

Bobby_M

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That makes sense. Not sure how the Wide Body Steam Slayer( 3" spray chamber) comes into the equation. BH used to have a 2" version for larger kettles, but at the time I was ready to pull the trigger they only offered the Wide Body version as the solution for larger kettles along with options for larger GPH sprayer nozzles. If I did 2 of these 3" wide Body that would be 3" chamber x 2 obviously. If I go bigger than 9 GPH nozzles it would theoretically pull more steam through the 1.5" openings and guessing that the 2- 3" chambers would also pull more through the 1.5" openings. Eventually I will have to test to know for sure.

Description
This is the new WIDE-BODY edition of the product. The larger 3" diameter spraying chamber maximizes cooling efficiency while keeping the steam entrance port at a standard 1.5" TC. This unit is better for 15 gallon and larger batch sizes or for 10 gallon batches where the source water is typically above 80F.
The primary reason that the 3" is more efficient is that the spray pattern is allowed to cover more area before it hits the chamber walls and becomes less effective at interfacing with the incoming steam. There is likely some practical limit where that efficiency would increase without opening up the entrance bore larger.

So, one widebody at 9GPH would be better than two 1.5" TC versions with 4.5GPH sprayers (if such a sprayer tip was available). I'm sure there is a lot of theoretical science that has already been done that could play into figuring all this out but I relied on practical testing of different prototypes.

To deal with really big boilers, I could see using a 3" tc port and welding several sprayer bungs into something like a 3" TC elbow.
 

ParabolicDestination

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Has anyone ever done an H configuration like this for their hop additions? Heavy lid and hot steam are the thought process around not lifting at all during the boil. Will weld a ring onto the cap to make for east removal and then use a wide-tip long funnel to not only get past the tee section, but also have easy hop drops during the boil. Any downsides or thoughts/prior experiences?
CC93886B-C351-4A48-AF48-99524995962D.jpeg
 

superiorsat

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Seems like it should work fine but the tri-clamp nut will be hot when taking it off the tri-clamp. I wonder if gravity would be a tight enough seal for the cap so you didn't have to mess around with the tri-clamp. Probably would be fine due to the suction action of the steam condenser.
 

ParabolicDestination

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Seems like it should work fine but the tri-clamp nut will be hot when taking it off the tri-clamp. I wonder if gravity would be a tight enough seal for the cap so you didn't have to mess around with the tri-clamp. Probably would be fine due to the suction action of the steam condenser.
Yeah I was going to try without a clamp and hope the suction will keep it closed. I have some extra stainless laying around so could try to rig up some extra weight on the cap. I’ve tried taking the elbow and steam condenser off instead of lifting the lid and can second that it’s super hot when in use, even with silicone bbq gloves it was too hot to hold.
 

ParabolicDestination

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You could also get a wye fitting to avoid needing a funnel (link below). You'd need a 45 degree bend attachment for a second tee, which would add to cost...less if purchased on Aliexpress.

I was wondering about that as well, was looking for a sanitary tee like they have in pvc but nobody makes one in tc form. Have seen the double 90 but it would kick the hops directly towards the condenser side of things. Will try next brew day and report back on findings both with, and without a funnel to see if you will actually loose any pellets out the side.
 

tracer bullet

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Most of these hang over the edge, but I wonder if you had say a 45 instead of 90 degree adapter coming off the top of the lid, maybe the condensing tube could connect to that. It'd need to be tall enough that the bottom of the tube would hang over the edge, but overall the center of gravity might stay closer to the center of the lid?

I think that was a bad explanation but maybe it made sense? Trying again, say you come up off the center of the lid. Then go up... maybe 8". Then you have a small 45 degree adapter. Then you put your main condensation tube there. The water going in is roughly centered over the lid, and the water coming out is around the edge of the lid. Some water would collect at the bottom but once it hit a certain point it'd drain out. And the sprayer probably doesn't care about being at a 45 degree angle.

Or put a hole on one side of the lid, and stretch the thing across the whole lid. Center of gravity would move closer to the middle of the lid or at least be at a point over the kettle itself.

Or, the side of the BK itself?
 

Jhedrick83

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Most of these hang over the edge, but I wonder if you had say a 45 instead of 90 degree adapter coming off the top of the lid, maybe the condensing tube could connect to that. It'd need to be tall enough that the bottom of the tube would hang over the edge, but overall the center of gravity might stay closer to the center of the lid?

I think that was a bad explanation but maybe it made sense? Trying again, say you come up off the center of the lid. Then go up... maybe 8". Then you have a small 45 degree adapter. Then you put your main condensation tube there. The water going in is roughly centered over the lid, and the water coming out is around the edge of the lid. Some water would collect at the bottom but once it hit a certain point it'd drain out. And the sprayer probably doesn't care about being at a 45 degree angle.

Or put a hole on one side of the lid, and stretch the thing across the whole lid. Center of gravity would move closer to the middle of the lid or at least be at a point over the kettle itself.

Or, the side of the BK itself?
Part of the hang up is I couldn’t center the steam slayer as the lid has a fixed handle in the middle:

D9AF3456-291E-4126-B6AE-EC193AAAE9B9.jpeg

I do 3 gallon batches in my 5.5 gal BK so during mash, I’m full almost to the very top. Porting the steam slayer in the side is doable as long as I plug the hole during mash, and then lift the bag and connect the steam slayer but I was trying to simplify things and avoid that.
 

Bobby_M

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Part of the hang up is I couldn’t center the steam slayer as the lid has a fixed handle in the middle:

View attachment 746449
I do 3 gallon batches in my 5.5 gal BK so during mash, I’m full almost to the very top. Porting the steam slayer in the side is doable as long as I plug the hole during mash, and then lift the bag and connect the steam slayer but I was trying to simplify things and avoid that.
The slayer doesn't have to be a perfect extension of the lid's radius. Rotate the elbow at the bulkhead joint so that the slayer body is practically touching the edge of the lid. That brings the center of gravity closer to the center of the lid. I doubt you would need much counterweight in that position but if you do, a 1 pound coated SCUBA weight would be nice.
1634850882029.png
 

McMullan

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How much water do these things use? Sorry, I couldn't be arsed to search the thread. Surprise me ;)
 

Bobby_M

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The 6 and 9 GPH ratings are based on 40psi. If you have 80psi, it will be approximately double the rating give or take. Keep in mind that it's not really practical to try to lower the water usage with the upstream valve. It may give you some very coarse, rarely repeatable lowering of flow rate but it's much better to tune the system by using the appropriate sprayer tip at your full pressure.
 

NewfieJeeper

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Hello,
I have a question before I order the steam slayer. I have a 20 gallon Spike kettle and I plan to port through the lid. I also use a Jaded Hydra immersion chiller. It works excellent and fast, and I like to have it in the last 10-15 mins of the boil.

My thought is, to simplify my process. to cut of the top stems on the Jadded chiller, and put 2 male cam lock fittings, so that the chiller can go in the boil with the lid on and just clear.... and I would add the chiller when I start filling the boil kettle and it would remain there, under the lid, for the duration of the boil. Then at flameout, remove lid, attach hoses to chiller and proceed.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't keep the copper chiller in for the duration of the boil? I recirculate, and it doesn't interfere with my pump in-out, element, or temp probe.

Thanks for your thoughts

Newf
 

RufusBrewer

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I have an Anvil 10.5 gallon. Could I use one of the Turbo 500 distilling condensor products in place of a conventional steam slayer?
 

doug293cz

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I have an Anvil 10.5 gallon. Could I use one of the Turbo 500 distilling condensor products in place of a conventional steam slayer?
What's the power in your Anvil? The Turbo 500 condensers can keep up with a full power boil using 1600W - 1650W. Can't say how they would work with higher power inputs.

Edit: On second thought the water flow to keep up with 1650W is quite low - basically a trickle (sorry - no flow meter), so they could handle more power with higher water flow.

Brew on :mug:
 

Bobby_M

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Hello,
I have a question before I order the steam slayer. I have a 20 gallon Spike kettle and I plan to port through the lid. I also use a Jaded Hydra immersion chiller. It works excellent and fast, and I like to have it in the last 10-15 mins of the boil.

My thought is, to simplify my process. to cut of the top stems on the Jadded chiller, and put 2 male cam lock fittings, so that the chiller can go in the boil with the lid on and just clear.... and I would add the chiller when I start filling the boil kettle and it would remain there, under the lid, for the duration of the boil. Then at flameout, remove lid, attach hoses to chiller and proceed.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't keep the copper chiller in for the duration of the boil? I recirculate, and it doesn't interfere with my pump in-out, element, or temp probe.

Thanks for your thoughts

Newf
The chiller doesn't need to be in the boil for any length of time. Drop it in when you shut off the element, wait 1 minute, then start cooling.
 
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