- Dec 19, 2014
- Reaction score
- West Palm Beach
A 3" ID tube has 4X the cross sectional area of a 1.5" ID tube. So, 2X - 1.5" is roughly equivalent to 1/2 - 3". Nozzle choice and water flow rate could shift the capacity ratio.Looks like this is 3 Inch. I would have no good way of handling my lid with something this big on it. That is why I put 2 -1.5" triclamp ferrules on my lid ( on opposite sides for balancing purposes ) thinking 2 steam slayers is basically equivalent to a 3" suction and maybe a little more due to wide body construction of the wide body steam slayers.
- Spare Parts and Accessories
- Steam Condensers & Condensate Stacks
- Condenser | for 2-4 BBL Dome Top Brew Kettles
Condenser | for 2-4 BBL Dome Top Brew Kettles
This stainless steel Condensor is used at installations where it is not permitted or possible to vent the brew kettle steam to the outside via a steam vent stack. It is designed specifically for 2-4 barrels Dome Top Brew Kettles and features:
- A candy cane shape that eliminates the steam vent by condensing the steam to water and draining to the floor.
- Condenser pipe
- 3 Tri Clamp adapters with 1/4-in. NPT Female threads with clamps
That makes sense. Not sure how the Wide Body Steam Slayer( 3" spray chamber) comes into the equation. BH used to have a 2" version for larger kettles, but at the time I was ready to pull the trigger they only offered the Wide Body version as the solution for larger kettles along with options for larger GPH sprayer nozzles. If I did 2 of these 3" wide Body that would be 3" chamber x 2 obviously. If I go bigger than 9 GPH nozzles it would theoretically pull more steam through the 1.5" openings and guessing that the 2- 3" chambers would also pull more through the 1.5" openings. Eventually I will have to test to know for sure.A 3" ID tube has 4X the cross sectional area of a 1.5" ID tube. So, 2X - 1.5" is roughly equivalent to 1/2 - 3". Nozzle choice and water flow rate could shift the capacity ratio.
Yes, I have a wide body version that uses a 3" diameter chamber and it is about 30% more efficient at the same sprayer rate.I wonder, would a larger tube diameter be better for a bigger system than two 1.5s?. I'm using a 1.5/2.0 T with a 9gal sprayer on my 15g kettle and its perfect.
The primary reason that the 3" is more efficient is that the spray pattern is allowed to cover more area before it hits the chamber walls and becomes less effective at interfacing with the incoming steam. There is likely some practical limit where that efficiency would increase without opening up the entrance bore larger.That makes sense. Not sure how the Wide Body Steam Slayer( 3" spray chamber) comes into the equation. BH used to have a 2" version for larger kettles, but at the time I was ready to pull the trigger they only offered the Wide Body version as the solution for larger kettles along with options for larger GPH sprayer nozzles. If I did 2 of these 3" wide Body that would be 3" chamber x 2 obviously. If I go bigger than 9 GPH nozzles it would theoretically pull more steam through the 1.5" openings and guessing that the 2- 3" chambers would also pull more through the 1.5" openings. Eventually I will have to test to know for sure.
This is the new WIDE-BODY edition of the product. The larger 3" diameter spraying chamber maximizes cooling efficiency while keeping the steam entrance port at a standard 1.5" TC. This unit is better for 15 gallon and larger batch sizes or for 10 gallon batches where the source water is typically above 80F.
Yeah I was going to try without a clamp and hope the suction will keep it closed. I have some extra stainless laying around so could try to rig up some extra weight on the cap. I’ve tried taking the elbow and steam condenser off instead of lifting the lid and can second that it’s super hot when in use, even with silicone bbq gloves it was too hot to hold.Seems like it should work fine but the tri-clamp nut will be hot when taking it off the tri-clamp. I wonder if gravity would be a tight enough seal for the cap so you didn't have to mess around with the tri-clamp. Probably would be fine due to the suction action of the steam condenser.
I was wondering about that as well, was looking for a sanitary tee like they have in pvc but nobody makes one in tc form. Have seen the double 90 but it would kick the hops directly towards the condenser side of things. Will try next brew day and report back on findings both with, and without a funnel to see if you will actually loose any pellets out the side.You could also get a wye fitting to avoid needing a funnel (link below). You'd need a 45 degree bend attachment for a second tee, which would add to cost...less if purchased on Aliexpress.
Those will very likely melt. On road race cars, we put foil tape over the strip weights, because they melt and fall off.I was planning on using some adhesive wheel weights on the top of my lid to counterbalance the weight of the Steam Slayer, anyone think of any issues there?
Part of the hang up is I couldn’t center the steam slayer as the lid has a fixed handle in the middle:Most of these hang over the edge, but I wonder if you had say a 45 instead of 90 degree adapter coming off the top of the lid, maybe the condensing tube could connect to that. It'd need to be tall enough that the bottom of the tube would hang over the edge, but overall the center of gravity might stay closer to the center of the lid?
I think that was a bad explanation but maybe it made sense? Trying again, say you come up off the center of the lid. Then go up... maybe 8". Then you have a small 45 degree adapter. Then you put your main condensation tube there. The water going in is roughly centered over the lid, and the water coming out is around the edge of the lid. Some water would collect at the bottom but once it hit a certain point it'd drain out. And the sprayer probably doesn't care about being at a 45 degree angle.
Or put a hole on one side of the lid, and stretch the thing across the whole lid. Center of gravity would move closer to the middle of the lid or at least be at a point over the kettle itself.
Or, the side of the BK itself?
The slayer doesn't have to be a perfect extension of the lid's radius. Rotate the elbow at the bulkhead joint so that the slayer body is practically touching the edge of the lid. That brings the center of gravity closer to the center of the lid. I doubt you would need much counterweight in that position but if you do, a 1 pound coated SCUBA weight would be nice.Part of the hang up is I couldn’t center the steam slayer as the lid has a fixed handle in the middle:
View attachment 746449
I do 3 gallon batches in my 5.5 gal BK so during mash, I’m full almost to the very top. Porting the steam slayer in the side is doable as long as I plug the hole during mash, and then lift the bag and connect the steam slayer but I was trying to simplify things and avoid that.
What's the power in your Anvil? The Turbo 500 condensers can keep up with a full power boil using 1600W - 1650W. Can't say how they would work with higher power inputs.I have an Anvil 10.5 gallon. Could I use one of the Turbo 500 distilling condensor products in place of a conventional steam slayer?
The chiller doesn't need to be in the boil for any length of time. Drop it in when you shut off the element, wait 1 minute, then start cooling.Hello,
I have a question before I order the steam slayer. I have a 20 gallon Spike kettle and I plan to port through the lid. I also use a Jaded Hydra immersion chiller. It works excellent and fast, and I like to have it in the last 10-15 mins of the boil.
My thought is, to simplify my process. to cut of the top stems on the Jadded chiller, and put 2 male cam lock fittings, so that the chiller can go in the boil with the lid on and just clear.... and I would add the chiller when I start filling the boil kettle and it would remain there, under the lid, for the duration of the boil. Then at flameout, remove lid, attach hoses to chiller and proceed.
Is there any reason why I shouldn't keep the copper chiller in for the duration of the boil? I recirculate, and it doesn't interfere with my pump in-out, element, or temp probe.
Thanks for your thoughts