Blichmann BrewEasy

[strangr419]

Nice! I knew someone would figure this out thank you mash-mongrel! 👍🍻

 

[mcs]

I have the electric 5-gal Breweasy system. I installed the boilcoil in the 10-gal pot and the instructions say to re-install the diptube in between the coils. I can see how that probably works on the larger systems, but when I tried to put it in between the coils, it pushed the coil up so that it was almost touching the other coil...it did not fit. I tried putting the diptube above the top coil and that seemed to fit much better. I contacted Blichmann and they said it should go between the coils. Just want to see if anyone with the same setup had a similar issue and how they got it to work?

Either Blichmann is wrong on this 10 gal kettle (5-gal system), OR the holes were drilled wrong for the boilcoil.

 

[Shuasha]

Has anybody tried a 5 gallon batch in the 10 gallon system yet?

 

[RogueMonkeyBrewing]

I have the electric 5-gal Breweasy system. I installed the boilcoil in the 10-gal pot and the instructions say to re-install the diptube in between the coils.

we have a 5gal 240v system and indeed the dip tube does fit under the top coil. the coil will spread and it will also be touching the dip tube, not a problem. in fact we just added the hop blocker to the dip tube to help keep the boil crap from siphoning. you can just pull out the dip tube for cleaning and then just spread coil again to fit it back in.

 

[RogueMonkeyBrewing]

we have the 5gal 240v system and wish blichmann would make the adapter ring to fit a 10gal MT. we are finding the 7.5gal to be rather full with some brews grains right up to the bottom of the auto-sparge hole. but then again thats why we have a BrewMagic system too. both systems are awesome though.

 

[mcs]

we have a 5gal 240v system and indeed the dip tube does fit under the top coil. the coil will spread and it will also be touching the dip tube, not a problem. in fact we just added the hop blocker to the dip tube to help keep the boil crap from siphoning. you can just pull out the dip tube for cleaning and then just spread coil again to fit it back in.

Interesting...I'll try again tonight to see if everything is setup okay. With my initial install it definitely fit better above the coil. Will take pictures.

 

[mcs]

Here are the images of above and in between the coils. In both cases, the dip tube touches the coil. However, when I put it in between there is significantly more pressure on the coil, pushing it up and making them almost touch on the entry point. When I put it above, it still touches...but it's really just barely putting pressure on it. It's a bit hard to see in the pictures, but the spacing between the coils is much more even when I have it above. I'm pretty sure it will work just fine either way, but it seemed off when I first put it in.

Anyone with similar setup seeing something different?

 

[elerten]

Prolly wont hurt it either way

 

[cookinwood]

I bought it, I love it. I have brewed 3 manual batches and 1 top tier batch. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1421481432.063579.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1421481487.494457.jpg

 

[mcs]

Something that was brought up earlier but it was never resolved regarding the use of the orifice...

There seems to be some relation to the flow capacity and efficiency, as well as getting mash temperatures up quicker. Would it be easier to just adjust the flow (using the new linear flow valve) rather than inserting an orifice? Has anyone tried this, or is everyone using the recommended orifice?

 

[cookinwood]

I open both flow valves almost completely and insert the 1.25/gallon oriface in the flow tube out of the mash tun. I also set my autosparge arm to about 1/2" above the top of the bed after the suggested rest time of the dough in. The valves being all the way open do not matter because the autosparge arm will regulate the flow rate in unison with the oriface washer. If it is flowing too slow for you, put on the next oriface ring size. I personally started with the .75 and moved up 2 to the 1.25 you will notice the pump won't kick as much with a larger flow rate, and you will get a whirlpool that completes rotation around the tun. If you are having efficiency problems perhaps you are using a fly system recipe from in the past, just adjust your grain bill up a little bit without adjusting final boil volume. Remember you get a higher efficiency off the fly system because you were rinsing the grains with clean liquor, not recirculating wort. Hope this helps a little. Cheers!

 

[Hex23]

They offer a 9" and a 12" besides the 6" that comes with the auto sparge.

I took my sparge arm to Home Depot and pick up a piece of 1/4 stainless threaded stock for cheep. I measured and cut two different lengths. The lengths are not the optional 9" & 12" because what I did cut seemed to work better. When I get home I can measure them.

The threaded stock is cheaper than what blichmann wants for one arm and its 3 feet allowing you to make several different lengths to suit your needs.

Thanks for the idea, but I'm curious to know how this works for you given that it seems the threads are M6x1: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/blichmann-autosparge-rod-threads-334727/

I went ahead and bought a SS 1/4x20 threaded rod at HD, and sure enough it doesn't thread well - might get to about 1-2 threads before it stops. I need to brew tonight, so I'll prob just leave it this way for now.

 

[Shuasha]

For those that want to order it, here's a 1 meter M6x1mm rod from McMaster. They also sell a 2 meter, but it's probably not needed.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#94185a155/=vka9e8

 

[zentropy]

we have the 5gal 240v system and wish blichmann would make the adapter ring to fit a 10gal MT. we are finding the 7.5gal to be rather full with some brews grains right up to the bottom of the auto-sparge hole. but then again thats why we have a BrewMagic system too. both systems are awesome though.

That's what I would like too. I think the 7.5 gal pot is too small to be usable for higher gravity beers. I wonder if it is possible to mod the drain tube (re-bend it) in some way to use it with a 10 gal pot. I already have one, and wanted to use it in a breweasy system, but I don't make 10 gallon batches because I just don't have fermentation/serving space for that much beer. Seems like it should fit through the adapter lid if the valve is the same distance from the bottom of the pot as the 7.5 gal. It also seems like a 10 gal pot could sit on top of the adapter lid, only it wouldn't sit as snugly as the 7.5 to prevent sliding around.

 

[cookinwood]

Why not just use silicone tubing with a blichmann elbow so you can still use a flow oriface in place of the s/s drain tube get 3/4" od by 1/2" inner id heavy duty silicone tubing that you can buy on eBay at ~$3/foot

 

[Hex23]

Why not just use silicone tubing with a blichmann elbow so you can still use a flow oriface in place of the s/s drain tube get 3/4" od by 1/2" inner id heavy duty silicone tubing that you can buy on eBay at ~$3/foot

Sounds like a good idea. If anyone does this, they probably should plan on making something to ensure the tube exits across from the ball valve. I think that SS tube is shaped that way for reason ... I assume for helping heat distribution.

 

[cookinwood]

If the pump is running (collecting from the bottom pot) it is sending temperature info to the brain because the probe is on the backside of the pump reading the wort temp that is returning to the mash tun and will heat and turn off as needed. So it will continuously keep temp between both pots within 0.1F.

 

[mccullpl]

"Something that was brought up earlier but it was never resolved regarding the use of the orifice...

There seems to be some relation to the flow capacity and efficiency, as well as getting mash temperatures up quicker. Would it be easier to just adjust the flow (using the new linear flow valve) rather than inserting an orifice? Has anyone tried this, or is everyone using the recommended orifice?"

I decided to do just that, and messed around running water through the valve until I got it set for 0.75 gal/min (ends up being just under 1 full turn from closed). I also measured the flow rate of the 0.75 gal/min orifice, and it flowed a lot less than that...maybe 0.4 gal/min. I've done one batch since then, and still have to learn the quirks of the system, but I don't think I'll be going back to using the orifices.

Pat

 

[Want2BS8ed]

If the pump is running (collecting from the bottom pot) it is sending temperature info to the brain because the probe is on the backside of the pump reading the wort temp that is returning to the mash tun and will heat and turn off as needed. So it will continuously keep temp between both pots within 0.1F.

Two brews in on my 10 gallon natural gas system and I have not found that to be the case... I have not calibrated my TOP temperature sensor, but I did calibrate both of the Brewmometers against a lab grade thermometer.

In order to maintain 152°F in the mash-tun, the full TOP needed to be set at 160°F and the bottom kettle was running at ~158°F. All-in-all a much greater temperature differential than originally anticipated. FWIW the ambient temperature was in the mid-40's.

I have added a second valve to the bottom kettle to recirculate wort through my plate chiller during the last 15 minutes of the boil. I am wondering if SOP shouldn't be to bring the entire volume of water up to strike temperature in the bottom kettle and then fill the mash-tun circulating for a few moments to bring the pot up to temperature before adding grains and ultimately speed the process along.

Any thoughts?

Also, one lesson learned the hard way: when calculating your strike temperature, do it on the volume of the mash-tun. I merrily went on my way the way I always have for BIAB and entered the full volume of water in my handy app... needless to say, dropping 24#'s of grain into 8 gallons of water, I missed my dough-in temperature by ~10°! Fortunately when I started to recirculate, the temperature came back up quickly and stayed rock steady throughout the entire mash using the offsets above.

M

 

[cookinwood]

Well when I "watched" the instructions for the system on you tube, you bring water up to strike temp and then dough in. I circulate during this process to heat both pots up. If you are using the top tier application program, dough in wait 5 minutes then press start, open all valves and turn on the pump and wait until mash is complete!

 

[Hex23]

Also, one lesson learned the hard way: when calculating your strike temperature, do it on the volume of the mash-tun. I merrily went on my way the way I always have for BIAB and entered the full volume of water in my handy app... needless to say, dropping 24#'s of grain into 8 gallons of water, I missed my dough-in temperature by ~10°! Fortunately when I started to recirculate, the temperature came back up quickly and stayed rock steady throughout the entire mash using the offsets above.

M

I was thinking about this recently, and (theoretically) I'm not sure either extreme would be ideal. In the case where you consider your strike volume to be the volume in the MT, you might get the MT to hit the initial rest temp during the 10 minute dough in, but as soon as you start re-circulating, the the temp would go up because you've still got strike temperature water in the BK. The system would eventually stabilize, but not sure how quickly. OTOH, during the dough in process you've got the heat turned off (else it would run away), so the liquor in the BK is cooling. All of this depends on the external temp, so it's a little complicated. I suspect this is something that would take trial and error to really hit the initial rest temp. Personally, I'd rather consider the full volume as the basis. That way, at least your not potentially overshooting the temp and denaturing enzymes.

 

[Hex23]

I am wondering if SOP shouldn't be to bring the entire volume of water up to strike temperature in the bottom kettle and then fill the mash-tun circulating for a few moments to bring the pot up to temperature before adding grains and ultimately speed the process along.

Any thoughts?

Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm not seeing how this would speed up the process. What step are you skipping or shortening?

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Well when I "watched" the instructions for the system on you tube, you bring water up to strike temp and then dough in. I circulate during this process to heat both pots up. If you are using the top tier application program, dough in wait 5 minutes then press start, open all valves and turn on the pump and wait until mash is complete!

Ohh, no argument. It's how I have done both batches so far. Just wondering if pre-heating in the lower pot first would save time...

M

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm not seeing how this would speed up the process. What step are you skipping or shortening?

Not skipping, but with a 6° temperature differential between the tun and kettle. Skipping the heat loss and doing the full volume at once seems more efficient, and thus shorter... :dunno:

M

 

[Hex23]

Not skipping, but with a 6° temperature differential between the tun and kettle. Skipping the heat loss and doing the full volume at once seems more efficient, and thus shorter... :dunno:

M

If I understand what you're saying, you're eventually going to heat up the MT by starting to circulate. That heat will partially go into the MT kettle, and it will take some time for the whole system to reach equilibrium. When that circulation starts, the overall water temp would drop until it can be brought back to the set point by the PID. That would take time and I think it's unlikely you'd get to equilibrium any faster that way than just starting circulation right at the start.

 

[Want2BS8ed]

I was thinking about this recently, and (theoretically) I'm not sure either extreme would be ideal. In the case where you consider your strike volume to be the volume in the MT, you might get the MT to hit the initial rest temp during the 10 minute dough in, but as soon as you start re-circulating, the the temp would go up because you've still got strike temperature water in the BK. The system would eventually stabilize, but not sure how quickly. OTOH, during the dough in process you've got the heat turned off (else it would run away), so the liquor in the BK is cooling. All of this depends on the external temp, so it's a little complicated. I suspect this is something that would take trial and error to really hit the initial rest temp. Personally, I'd rather consider the full volume as the basis. That way, at least your not potentially overshooting the temp and denaturing enzymes.

Hadn't thought about that... That would certainly explain why the temperature came back up so quickly once recirculating and I could certainly see where it could overshoot as you suggest.

Hmmmm... any others wish to weigh in with what you have experienced?

Great conversation!

M

 

[cookinwood]

Just think of it like cooking... You can always add, but you can't take away. I'd rather start with a dough in that's 5-6 degrees low than a dough in that's 5-6 degrees high and missing a conversion step because equilibriating back down would almost seem irrelevant because the grain would have acclimated to the higher temp at that point. When I dough in I just shoot for 6-8 degrees above desired temp by winging it. I use brew pal and in the past whenever I doughed in at the strike temp advised it was always too high. And ambient air temp is always warmer in Arizona.

 

[samandbekah]

I have a question for those of you having the temperature differences between the TOP and the mash tun/boil kettle - how many of you are brewing outdoors?

I am in the process of converting my basement kitchen into a dedicated brewing area and I'm going to be ordering the electric version... just wondering how much ambient temperature is coming into play...

 

[Want2BS8ed]

I have a question for those of you having the temperature differences between the TOP and the mash tun/boil kettle - how many of you are brewing outdoors?

I am in the process of converting my basement kitchen into a dedicated brewing area and I'm going to be ordering the electric version... just wondering how much ambient temperature is coming into play...

In my all of two brews experience on the new BrewEasy, I was outdoors on a natural gas fired Blichmann burner with ambient temperatures in the low to mid-40's and light winds. To maintain a steady 152°F in the mash tun. I was recording the following:

MT = 152°
BK = 158°
TOP = 160°

Indoors with a controlled environment and higher ambient temperature, I would anticipate less of a differential.

I actually like brewing outside, but look forward to responses from others - I have often thought about a second BK w/ BoilCoil (or even a rims rocket) and mounting an electric controller next to the gas controller on the TOP just to have the capability to brew indoors on rainy days...

M

 

[aamcle]

Would it be possible to reduce the dough in temperature discrepancy by having as much strike water in the MT as possible? Dough in then let it drain to whatever level you want.
In effect setting up with the minimum water over the elements.

I know insulation is tricky if your working with gas but just insulating the wort return tube made a big reduction to the temperature difference between the wort in the bottom of the kettle and that at the top of the wort return line in my recirculating BIAB system. I brew in the garage and it gets cold out there.

I'm interested because I had a Brutus20 and liked it very much but I'm beginning to feel a little unsure about the BrewEasy.


Atb. Aamcle

 

[cookinwood]

I am brewing using it for the fifth time Sunday before Super Bowl, I will post step by step process with photos and video if possible.

 

[aamcle]

Cookinwood, would you be able to measure how long it takes the grain bed to achieve target mash temperature after dough in and the start of recirculation?

Many thanks. Aamcle

 

[cookinwood]

I can try, I always start with the 122 protein rest with a dough in of ~128. I will give the exact recipe I will be using. Most likely an amber. I also use 7.5/10 (smallest brew easy)240v setup in my garage.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1422504412.548325.jpg

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Aamcle, what were you using to insulate the return line?

Thanks,

M

 

[aamcle]

Just common pipe insulation the foam tube type you should be able to get it easily.

Atb. Aamcle

 

[cookinwood]

Here's my grain bill, hops and process I'm going to use for

Crook Lane Amber Ale
American Amber Ale
5.5 gallons
All Grain
1.059~OG → 1.014~FG → 5.9%ABV29 IBU14.0°L SRM

Yeast
Fermentis - Safbrew T-58
T-58 - Safbrew T-58
Fermentis (Ale)1750mL starter with washed yeast on its second run about 4oz of yeast slurry being combined with nutrients and 1250mL of fresh wort.


Fermentables
13 pounds 2 Row 71.2%
Biscuit 12 ounces 5.8%
CaraPils 12 ounces 5.8%
Carastan (Light) 12 ounces 5.8%
Crystal 120L 12 ounces 5.8%
Victory 12 ounces 5.8%

Hops
3.16 ounces
Cascade
9%, Leaf1.25 ounces
Comet
10%, Leaf1.25 ounces
Galena
14.1%, Leaf0.66 ounces


Miscellaneous
0.25 ounces
Orange peel (Sweet)
Flavor0.25 ounces


1 step brew in bag/ramp
90 minutes, 8.70 gallons +.25gallons for system loss via dead space/tubing
Strike
Target 122°F128°F 15 minutes
Ramp 1
Target 122-154°F22 min
Target 154F 60 minutes
Ramp 2
Target 154-168F 17 minutes
Target 168 20 minutes

Boil
90 minutes, ~6.76-7 gallons
Galena hops
14.1%, Leaf0.66 ounces
60 minutes (+30)
Cascade hops
8.1%, Leaf0.5 ounces
5 minutes (+85)
Comet hops
10%, Leaf0.5 ounces
5 minutes (+85)
Orange peel (Sweet)
Flavor0.25 ounces
5 minutes (+85)

Ferment
14 days, 2 stages
Start fermentation
63°F
7 days (+0 days)
Cascade hops
9%, Leaf0.75 ounces
7 days (+7 days)
Comet hops
10%, Leaf0.75 ounces
7 days (+7 days)
Rack to secondary
63°F
7 days (+7 days)

 

[nutty_gnome]

Nice to see others using Comet hops out in the homebrew world. I like it---- I describe it as 'more simcoe than simcoe' (tm). Congrats on your fine choice and good luck with the Blichmann Breweasy!

 

[Rmccall95]

Been following this thread for a while. Seeing the enthusiasm with which owners speak of the Blichmann BE setup, I want to ask some questions.
I am an all-grain brewer, doing mash in a 10-gallon Igloo cooler. Been brewing this way for about 4 years. No recirculation here, just letting it sit for an hour, trusting BeerSmith for making sure I hit mash temps with some degree of certainty. And no ability to precisely adjust my mash temp. Please enlighten me - what are the advantages to a recirculating system? I can easily see the ability to do step-mash, as well as a protein rest, if I decide to attempt that. What else? What advantage is there to the filtration of the wort that will obviously happen during the hour of recirculating?
I am wanting someone to convince me to either cobble together a recirculating system of some kind on my own, or go ahead and spring the $$ to invest in this system. It's just that the BE system is a sizable chunk of cash, and will require not only saving up for it, but strong justification for the expenditure.
I am thinking I will go for an electric setup, though I will have to have another 240v outlet installed in my utility/brew room.

 

[mfabe]

Had my first go around with my 10 gallon electric brew easy setup yesterday. Everything functioned flawlessly, but I did have to dial in about a 4-5 degree differential between the boil kettle/TOP temp vs. what the mash was registering using my thermapen and brewmometer. I also did about a 15 minute ramp for an attempted mashout, but didn't quite get to the 165 before I got impatient and just stopped the recirculation.

Overall I am very pleased with the system, but I only got 65% efficiency and I was a gallon short on my final volume (finished with 10 flat, normally I get 11 for dead loss etc) on the first go around. Not bad but I think I can improve on it by dialing in a bit finer crush on my MM3. My goal is to get 75% consistently. The thing I appreciated most about it was it shaved about 2 hours off my brew day vs my prior gas fired 3 vessel system. Clean up and storage is extremely easy.

All in all I think the system was an excellent investment! I can't wait for the next go around! :rockin:

 

[mash-mongrel]

Thanks for the idea, but I'm curious to know how this works for you given that it seems the threads are M6x1: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/blichmann-autosparge-rod-threads-334727/

I went ahead and bought a SS 1/4x20 threaded rod at HD, and sure enough it doesn't thread well - might get to about 1-2 threads before it stops. I need to brew tonight, so I'll prob just leave it this way for now.

For those that want to order it, here's a 1 meter M6x1mm rod from McMaster. They also sell a 2 meter, but it's probably not needed.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#94185a155/=vka9e8

Sorry about that, I was busy at sea while at work when I made my speedy reply.

I had taken my sparge arm with me when I picked up the threaded stock and asked for 1/4 inch as I handed him the arm but the helpful hand at the store never corrected me as I miss spoke, he passed me the correct metric threaded stock, I thanked him and walked away. I apologize and will edit my original post giving you credit.