BIABNCFIK

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cgriffith

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2018
Messages
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Location
Oviedo, FL
I got back into brewing last year after a 25 year break. I didn't want to just go out and purchase a bunch of equipment; also my wife would get pissed if I did. After doing much research and connecting the dots, I went with a BIAB, No Chill, Ferment in Kettle (FIK) approach; a.k.a. "BIABNCFIK". I am posting a rough idea of my setup in case there are others out there who are looking for an easy and affordable way to get into this hobby.

Supplies
1) 6 gal "gasone" SS pot from Amazon: ~$70
2) SS sanitary ball value: ~$20
3) stepper drill bit; which ended up being a real POS: ~$10
4) Silicone tubing and silcone caulk for kettle lid seal: ~$10
5) 5-gal paint stirrer from Lowes: ~$10

Pros:
1) I do the whole process(boil to bottle) in one stainless steal pot making clean up easy and storage nice.
2) I feel more confident about sanitation since the only time I open the seal is to pitch yeast. As a microbiologist I have very good sanitary technique.
3) total cost less than $150. Only hobby I know where after 6-7 brews, my setup has actually paid for itself.
4) As I drink my "super bowl galaxy IPA" that is my best brew yet, I feel this setup is completely capable of making great beers.

Cons:
1) I only brew 3 gal batches with this setup. I am fine with that, but others might want larger. Scaling up is doable but cost would higher for kettle.
2) I have not been able to successfully harvest yeast because at end of bottling kettle contains roughly 2 quarts of trub/yeast mix which seem to not be separable.
3) Soot. The first few batches resulted in large amounts of soot on kettle which is messy when moving to/from resting place. I have since coated my kettle with dish soap prior to boil and found a way to wipe most of it off before moving indoors.
4) equipment tied up for two weeks. This is not an issue for me as I would never have time to brew more than once in a two week period anyways, but could be for others.

Some of the points of technique worth mentioning.
1) A few minutes before flame out, I clean and chemical sanitize lid and seal. Then I place on boiling kettle for a few minutes to further heat sanitize.
2) At flame out, I use the paint stirrer attached to drill to whip up the hot wort(for 60 sec) aerating it while it is still relatively hot and still in sanitary range.
3) I have cooled the kettle in my sink, which takes more than an hour, or just let sit over night. I have not noticed any difference in final product with either method.
4) On bottling day, I use domino dots(approx 2.4g per cube, one per bottle) for priming. I have never had an issue with under-carbination.
5) I stop bottling when I hit the trub.

Most of what I have brewed has been IPAs and I look forward to trying other styles. Let me know what you think, if you have any questions, or if your interested in more detail.
 
@fun4stuff

I had not seen these before so thanks for the link. I have to tell you that I am intrigued. Can you speak from experience on the Univessel? My only concern is how the vessel would hold up to propane because I can tell the quality of the SS is not that good.
 
@fun4stuff

I had not seen these before so thanks for the link. I have to tell you that I am intrigued. Can you speak from experience on the Univessel? My only concern is how the vessel would hold up to propane because I can tell the quality of the SS is not that good.

I’m not sure. I was looking into not long after you posted but end up getting with an anvil bucket fermenter and a digiboil electric kettle.
 
I wanted to follow up on the post regarding the Chapman uni-vessel fun4stuff point me at, in case there is anyone else wanting to know about this product.

To give quick background, I wanted to try BIABFIAK process with a non-ported uni-vessel. Why? because I have been worried about a problem that has not occurred yet where I can't easily clean my ball valve. So I wanted to try a ss racking cane thru rubber stopper on top that on bottling day can be used instead of a ball valve eliminating my fear of a gross valve. My theory was that I could try to pressurize the container to start the siphon when bottling.

So, i purchased a pre-owned but never used 7gal portless to test my theory. I have to say I am very satisfied with this product. Had I known this, I would have started with this product instead of all the hassles of the gasone pot I mentioned above. It is perfect for this BIABFIAK process. The stainless steel, although not 304, is same used in other kitchen cookware I have used in the past. I had also assumed it was thin; this is not the case. It is hefty enough for the job. I was also worried about the non-clad bottom during boil; I had no issues that I can tell with scorching or inefficient heating. I only have a few issues with this product. First, I think the sizes are a bit off for BIAB. The 7 gal is really too small for anything but 3 gal batches. This happens to be the size batch I currently do, but I would like to have option to do 5 gal if I wanted. So that would mean I need to step up to the next size which is 14gal. Now this seems overkill for a 5gal batch. Second, I had to add some vinyl tubing to the lid at the points where the clamps engage to add more height because without it the seal was not as robust.

On a different note, my exbeeriment with portless vessel was a bust. I don't know why I ever thought I could bottle without a valve. I always fail big time when it comes to siphoning. So now, I have to drill a hole and add a valve. I am considering either using the weldless Tri-clover bulkhead so I can get a triclover sanitary valve, or spend the $ on the Brewers Hardware Quick Clean valve.
 
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