Bi-Metal Hole Saw Not Cutting?

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cbzdel

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Unfortunately I had to sell off most of my electric setup due to a life event, child birth and unexpected job loss in the same month.. I will be back in the game once we are back on our feet though..

I did keep a couple items which I did not want to re-purchase again.

I have the Home Depot Spa Panel.. I wanted to cut it to fit an outlet inside it like this:
(Not my picture, but I am trying to do this)
DSC00108.jpg


So I bought a 2-1/8" Bi-Metal hole saw a home depot as well, I think its a Milwaukee brand, which I expected to be good.

I used a drill press to cut the hole and I NEVER had an issue before cutting holes in metal. This time the saw cut though the paint of the metal and then nothing, it wouldnt budge at all, just kept spinning, not a single flake of metal came off.. I when applying to much force it would stall the bit, but again never had an issue before cutting metal with a bi-metal saw.

Is there such a thing as a defective hole saw?? Anyone know what would cause me NOT to be able to cut though this thin piece of metal?? I cut my entire control box with Milwaukee brand hole saws and never had an issue.. But the one and only time I used this 2-1/8" saw I got ZERO results..
 
Did you use some cutting oil? If not, you definitely could have dulled the blade.
 
You should be able to spot a dull hole saw. The teeth will be rounded off, you may see signs of overheating like blue metal, and it will feel dull to the touch. If you have a new or nearly new hole saw, it will provide a point of reference of how it should look and feel.

Its easy to run these hole saws at too high an RPM when cutting holes.

High speed + lack of lubrication = overheating/dullness.

Could definitely be the wrong rotation setting on your drill too, as gpack pointed out.
 
Reverse the drill.

While it might be possible, most drill presses don't have a reverse. I know mine doesn't. Also as far as bits go it isn't common to have left hand drill bits. I have a set but it is one of those special tools you don't use very often and I don't think I have seen a left hand hole saw. Not saying it doesn't exist but I doubt it would be a common tool found in your average hardware store. As for left hand bits, the only time I have ever used them was when I was removing a broken bolt which isn't something you would use a hole saw to do.

I am leaning toward lack of lube and possibly too much speed resulting in a dull saw.
 
Yeah, especially with that large of a bit you will want a pretty low speed. Most people run their drill bits too fast in metal. The larger diameter at the same RPM means the surface speed on those teeth was higher. More force, less speed.
But at this point I'd look at the tips of the teeth and see if you need to take a file to them in order to put a sharp edge on them again.
 
I have no reverse function on my drill press and yes I have cutting oil that I squirted all over the cutting blade as well as the metal.. Also the drill is set to the slowest speed as all I ever cut with it is metal. I cut 6 holes in metal previous and 2 after this one and this hole was the only one I had trouble with and it was the only time I used my 2-1/8" saw. I cut larger and smaller holes with out issue.. So all I can think is the issue is the saw itself or something is WEIRD about the metal I am cutting into.

The blade looks and feels as sharp as any new one I have ever bought, just your typical hole saw off the shelf at home depot..
 
Long shot here, but is there any chance your drill press table is set at the extreme end of vertical travel for the chuck?
 
Long shot here, but is there any chance your drill press table is set at the extreme end of vertical travel for the chuck?

This is what it sounds like is happening TBO. I have also seen a two step pilot bit spin in place due to a loose set screw. It got stuck at the sholder (second step) and keep the saw itself from contacting the surface.
 
I had a problem drilling through the sheet metal of a gun safe. I had to start with 1/16 inch bit and gradually work up from there. Without the smaller starter hole there was no edge for the bit to start cutting in.
You could also check the plumbing supply stores for a stainless steel punch used on sinks. These tools use the tightening of a bolt to cut the hole in stainless steel. The tool leaves a flat surface and clean round hole.
 
Couple of issues I ran into with my drill press using a Lenox hole saw:
1) After years of using it, the belt was not tight enough causing slippage. I adjusted the belt tension again using the manual and that significantly improved the performance. It would drive normal drill bits this time, but the extra load caused by the hole saw was too much with the loosened belt.

2) After I tightened the belt, I also noticed that my chuck drive pully-nut was also a bit loose. Gave that a twist and tightened it up as well.

Went back and tried the cutter, and viola, things worked as expected. Drill press gets used infrequently in my case, so perhaps take a look at that to make sure things are all tightened up in the top of the press.
 
Low speed and cutting oil... no prob. Make sure your press isn't bottoming out.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Home Brew mobile app
 
I have no reverse function on my drill press and yes I have cutting oil that I squirted all over the cutting blade as well as the metal.. Also the drill is set to the slowest speed as all I ever cut with it is metal. I cut 6 holes in metal previous and 2 after this one and this hole was the only one I had trouble with and it was the only time I used my 2-1/8" saw. I cut larger and smaller holes with out issue.. So all I can think is the issue is the saw itself or something is WEIRD about the metal I am cutting into.

The blade looks and feels as sharp as any new one I have ever bought, just your typical hole saw off the shelf at home depot..

I think you know what your doing, so I'm curious. Did you figure this out?
 
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