Beverage-Air 50 too loud

[mavrick1903]

My wife is not a fan of the cool cycle noise level (external fan) volume of our new (used) Beverage Air 50 double door kegerator. Anyone have suggestions for reducing the volume? Our home is a modest ranch, and the room it's in will be nicer to use with a more tolerable noise output. It's free standing at the moment. From my current thinking, I have two options:

A: Build some sort of noise chamber that does not grossly impact airflow for the left side of the unit. I dont want to enclose the entire unit, it's a great shape. I'd like not not try to build a cabinet around the whole thing.

B: change the fan. Either by changing the fan blade, or the entire fan/motor. Thinking here is if I could find a quieter fan blade, perhaps the style with a ring around the outside of the blades? Or, change to a different design, like a squirrel cage style fan.

Anyone crossed this bridge? or just have thoughts about the topic?

I got the unit for a decent price ($800) and cleaned it up (was used for three years, then sat in storage for three years). Installed three Perlick 650ss taps and it works great! I dont want to have to give this unit up for something smaller, which wont allow for the extra cold space for cold crashing, etc.

Your input is appreciated.

 

[Rockn_M]

I would take a look at chaging the fan and motor assembly. I had a regrigerator that made a loud noise when the fan turned on to cool the compressor. Made a huge difference in the sound of the fridge.

 

[mavrick1903]

Am I right that more sound is coming from the fan, less from compressor?

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Can the fan be easily disconnected while it's running, should you wish to verify that's it?

But yeah, I would bank on the fan.

 

[mavrick1903]

Can the fan be easily disconnected while it's running, should you wish to verify that's it?

But yeah, I would bank on the fan.

I've got to work on that (checking). the access panel along the side is unfriendly due to a row of screws on the inside top edge. I can access screws at either end, and along the bottom, but the equpiment cavity cover is also stitched with a row of screws along the inside top. Access from front blocked by the condenser coil. back partially obstructed by the plumbing. Made worse by where it's placed. I have to empty, move it out for access, do the work, blah blah blah.

I think I can measure the space from the front, without as much effort and decide if I can put a different fan in. even if I had to rework a little (within what the plumbing would allow, I think I'd be ok.

The 4" 120cfm version of http://www.brewandgrow.com/grow/indoor-garden-climate-odor-control/can-fan-centrifugal-duct-fan-3807.html would be nice and quiet. I'd pay that price for something with a long life cycle that was as quiet as the one I heard in store last night.

 

[mavrick1903]

Still working on this problem (not that any actual "work" has taken place since OP)

Any suggestions for a fan to use? I figure I dont have much more than about 6" square, and a little more in depth so 6x6x8? I need to measure, and check the fan.

Just a little lost on a fan that would be quieter?

Thoughts?

 

[BungBrewing]

The problem with using these commercial style coolers in a residential setting is that typically they are much louder than a standard refrigerator, plus the fan always runs because in a commercial environment the doors get opened a lot and they need to cool it faster. I have a Perlick BBSN72 back bar cooler and the fan is always on, whether the compressor is on or not. It's in my garage right now so it doesn't matter if it's louder. I am planning on moving it inside the house soon so I am definitely going to quiet it. My fan is 115VAC so I was thinking about wiring a relay to the compressor power and only power the evaporator fan when the compressor is on. When it's off, the relay will release and I can use a different pole to power a smaller 12VDC fan in the cooler that can stay on all the time, circulating the air. This won't eliminate the fan noise when the compressor is on but at least it wouldn't be constant (once the cooler gets to temperature).

Plus, I don't know if it would be a good idea to replace the blower fan with a smaller (quieter) one, because the evaporator could possibly freeze up if it doesn't get adequate air movement.

Is that fan you mentioned sized for a 4" duct? Or is it 4" in diameter? If it's for a 4" duct, the case appears to be very large....

 

[mavrick1903]

I'm looking at the "Can Fan Max 6inch" I figure I could fit that.

Problem is, I'll have to unload the unit, and pull it out (the business end is towards the corner (plenty of airflow) so access is not "easy". The side panel is screwed on all four sides, and the top row from the inside. Access is enough trouble I'll want to leave it pulled out till I'm done with the project.

 

[BungBrewing]

I'm looking at the "Can Fan Max 6inch" I figure I could fit that.

Have you confirmed that it will be quieter than your original fan?

 

[mavrick1903]

I have not. I need to do that, and I need to unplug (if I can) the existing fan and try to see how much of the noise is fan vs compressor.

Back to the "pulling out from wall is a pain in the arse" problem.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

In the same vein here...........You smart phone users, ( still on a flip phone here!), I understand there is an app for your phones, for measuring noise, ( re: a decibel meter).

Anybody know it or use it?

 

[mastweb]

Did find a solution? I have the same problem!

 

[verboten]

I just installed a new condenser fan motor with aplastic blade, it’s much quieter. I also plan on replacing the evaporator fans with smaller brushless fans that will cycle with the compressor. Since it will be full of kegs and rarely opened, the circulation fans are not a huge deal.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

The inside fan should be on all the time, the outside fan should only come on when the compressor does.
Someone may have worked on it in the past and rewired it, incorrectly, there should be a relay close to the compressor.
I have several and have sold several after repairing them.
Get a wiring diagram from the beverage air website for your box.

 

[mavrick1903]

Ok, embarrassing that I've been putting this off so long. I have a replacement motor but have not done the replacement yet. It's where our glassware has ended up over the years and it's full since it still works well (just loud). The design is a PITA for the shroud too. I'll need to empty it inside and out, then move and jack up the end to access all the screws to remove the side plate to access the fan motor. In the current state of things I need to do it, just need the wife to work on a project she needs to do in order to gain that access.