Best yeast for stuck fermentation

[41576nbk]

Hello - looking for advice on a stuck fermentation. I brewed a fresh Squeeze clone and used 1968 London ESB yeast with a two step starter. Grain bill below.

• 11.0 lb (4.99 kg) U.S. pale two-row malt
• 1.75 lb (0.79 kg) 10° L Munich malt
• 0.75 lb (340 g) 75° L crystal malt

Mash temp was 153 for 60 min.
I added sufficient o2/yeast nutrient and fermented as follows: Day 1-3 at 68 deg. day 4-14 at 72 deg. Fermentation activity was normal, with airlock activity stopping at day 7. OG was 1.057, on day 7 FG 1.020. Attenuation is 64%, vs the min of 1968 ESB of 67%. On day 10 and 12 I roused the yeast and kept carboy temp at 72deg. Result was no airlock activity. FG on day 14 still at 1.02.

My next step is adding new yeast.
Any suggestions on yeast type, or method for starter (i.e. use fresh 1.040 malt wort, or pull beer from carboy for starter)? Or, if adding fresh yeast is not the best next step, other options?

Thanks!

 

[MHBT]

wlp001 would work for a stuck fermentation if you pitch a active starter of it, depending on what variables are causing a stuck ferm

 

[JonM]

1.020 is a little high, but just a little. I use 1968/002 a lot and I really like it, but it can be a low attenuator which sometimes is what you want.

Anyway, if you really want it unstuck, try the old tried-and-true method of making an entire separate batch, let it ferment, rack off the yeast cake and then rack the stuck batch onto the yeast cake. Works like a charm.

If you don't have time for that and you want to pitch new yeast and wring out more than just a couple points, 3711 is a beast.

 

[dmtaylor]

If it tastes good, drink it.

If not, then make a nice 2-quart starter with a pack of Notty. Let that go for a day or two, then pitch that in. It will bring the attenuation down the rest of the way.

 

[kh54s10]

If it tastes good, drink it.

If not, then make a nice 2-quart starter with a pack of Notty. Let that go for a day or two, then pitch that in. It will bring the attenuation down the rest of the way.

Why would you want to make a starter with Nottingham. Just rehydrated it and pitch. It is more than enough yeast already.

OP, You are measuring with a hydrometer and not a refractometer, right?

 

[dmtaylor]

@kh54s10, just to wake it up. Yeast likes to be awake and already eating when thrown fresh into alcohol.

 

[madscientist451]

Your starting gravity seems low for that much grain, I put your grain bill into brewer's friend recipe builder and came up with a SG of 1.067 and FG 1.017.
Those are just ballpark target numbers, but it indicates your FG isn't all that far off.
So first thing, are you sure your hydrometer is accurate?
Second, how does the beer taste?
I'm not sure adding more yeast is going to improve the beer all that much.
You may be able to shave a few points off the FG, but the new yeast is most likely going to alter the current flavor profile. Meanwhile your hop flavor/bitterness is going to start fading.
You might be better off just keeping it, and re-brew with a lower mash temp.
Another option would be to add some sugar, let it ferment out to get 10 more points on the gravity and boost the ABV were it should be?
You can start dry hopping while the added sugar is finishing up.
The clone recipe calls for a mash temp of 150F, why did you mash at 153? The clone recipe also says the target SG is 1.066.
If you re-brew, you may want to try using the Cal ale yeast.

 

[kh54s10]

@kh54s10, just to wake it up. Yeast likes to be awake and already eating when thrown fresh into alcohol.

Yes but you don't really want to make a starter with dry yeast. They are engineered with nutrients etc that will be consumed by making a starter. Rehydration is all you need.

It has been opined that if you pitch dry yeast directly into wort as much as 50% of the cells die. So when you then do a starter the cell growth might get you back to the cell counts that the pack contained originally.

 

[41576nbk]

Your starting gravity seems low for that much grain, I put your grain bill into brewer's friend recipe builder and came up with a SG of 1.067 and FG 1.017.
Those are just ballpark target numbers, but it indicates your FG isn't all that far off.
So first thing, are you sure your hydrometer is accurate?
Second, how does the beer taste?
I'm not sure adding more yeast is going to improve the beer all that much.
You may be able to shave a few points off the FG, but the new yeast is most likely going to alter the current flavor profile. Meanwhile your hop flavor/bitterness is going to start fading.
You might be better off just keeping it, and re-brew with a lower mash temp.
Another option would be to add some sugar, let it ferment out to get 10 more points on the gravity and boost the ABV were it should be?
You can start dry hopping while the added sugar is finishing up.
The clone recipe calls for a mash temp of 150F, why did you mash at 153? The clone recipe also says the target SG is 1.066.
If you re-brew, you may want to try using the Cal ale yeast.

Thank you all for the ideas.
Yep, I have an effincency issue with larger grain bills. Have a very small mash tun, but have a solution for that. I have been using a hydrometer and am confident in the accuracy. You have all given good ideas to ponder and yes, just drinking it is also a good option. Ideally I would love to drop it a few more points, but either way, it will be beer. Thanks!

 

[parrothead64]

I agree that if it’s a new batch you should just rehydrate dry yeast but, You are pitching into a low sugar no oxygen environment. If you pitch dry yeast or liquid from a smack pack, it’s going to just sink to the bottom. You need to make a starter and pitch at high krausen. You can do it with dry yeast. Rehydrate it in water and then pitch it into the starter .let it get going with lots of oxygen and sugar first.Ive done it and it works.

 

[kh54s10]

I agree that if it’s a new batch you should just rehydrate dry yeast but, You are pitching into a low sugar no oxygen environment. If you pitch dry yeast or liquid from a smack pack, it’s going to just sink to the bottom. You need to make a starter and pitch at high krausen. You can do it with dry yeast. Rehydrate it in water and then pitch it into the starter .let it get going with lots of oxygen and sugar first.

Maybe, but you would have to make a large starter. I would say over 2 liters to get the same cell counts as the pack originally contained. I would not want that much starter beer put into my "stalled" beer for a couple of gravity points. I would do what you suggest but make it with liquid yeast and do a .5 liter starter.

 

[BucksIPA]

1084 and some alpha amalyse