Best Way to Join Collar and Keezer?

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Clint Yeastwood

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Twelve days ago, I had nothing but a twinkle in my eye and a computer mouse in my hand, and now I have an AIO, a fermenting freezer, a future keezer, and two fermenters, not to mention an ale in the keg.

Now I have to make a collar for the keezer. I wonder if there are any clever ideas for attaching collars.

I know a lot of people use Liquid Nails. I'm wondering if silicone is better, mainly because silicone will come off when you want it to.

I used to have a regular appliance repair guy, and I always pick tradesmen's brains when they do work for me, so I peppered him with questions. I asked who made reliable refrigerators. He worked on everything from Haiers to Sub-Zeros. He said they were ALL junk, so I should buy whatever was cheapest. And there wasn't a whole lot he could do when they went bad. They were all Chinese, and once the systems started leaking, they had to be replaced.

If what he said was true, then it seems like a bad idea to fasten a collar to a freezer permanently. If I use something I can undo, and the keezer dies, I can take the collar off and put it right on the same model.

I had an idea about using Velcro. I could rout shallow pockets in the underside of the collar, just high enough to keep the Velcro from lifting the collar off the keezer. Then I could run silicone around the joints. The Velcro would be invisible, and if the keezer expired, I would be able to get the collar off.

But maybe it's a stupid idea.

I don't like the idea of using silicone all by itself because it's not much of an adhesive.
 
That's magnificent. You have tremendous skills and a nice shop. I'm a hack machinist and woodworker, so I have a lot of tools, but a lid like that would be a challenge for me. You must have spent a fortune on that maple.

I used to have a keezer with towers, and I decided I didn't like it because towers weren't great for opening and closing.
 
My collar consists of a pine frame of 2 x 4s that sits right on top of the chest freezer opening. The front and sides of the pine collar is faced by 1 x 6 oak (the oak hangs down by a couple of inches). I put foam insulation tape on the bottom of the frame. Between the tape and the oak facing, that collar is sealed pretty darn tight.
 
You could also attach 3/4inch x 6inch boards around the collar. The extra board would then slip fit over the freezer. Attach a foam sealer to the bottom of the collar to seal. I used 12 inch boards.
 
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I think your basic concept suits my needs, Niatras. I truly appreciate the photo.

Finding oak or some other nice hardwood around here will be interesting.

Maybe I should make it from the local live oak. It's terrible for furniture, but it's beautiful and strong, and it would remind me how grateful I am to live in this area.

I wonder if anyone bothers to make slabs from it, given its poor woodworking reputation.
 
Twelve days ago, I had nothing but a twinkle in my eye and a computer mouse in my hand, and now I have an AIO, a fermenting freezer, a future keezer, and two fermenters, not to mention an ale in the keg.

Now I have to make a collar for the keezer. I wonder if there are any clever ideas for attaching collars.

I know a lot of people use Liquid Nails. I'm wondering if silicone is better, mainly because silicone will come off when you want it to.

I used to have a regular appliance repair guy, and I always pick tradesmen's brains when they do work for me, so I peppered him with questions. I asked who made reliable refrigerators. He worked on everything from Haiers to Sub-Zeros. He said they were ALL junk, so I should buy whatever was cheapest. And there wasn't a whole lot he could do when they went bad. They were all Chinese, and once the systems started leaking, they had to be replaced.

If what he said was true, then it seems like a bad idea to fasten a collar to a freezer permanently. If I use something I can undo, and the keezer dies, I can take the collar off and put it right on the same model.

I had an idea about using Velcro. I could rout shallow pockets in the underside of the collar, just high enough to keep the Velcro from lifting the collar off the keezer. Then I could run silicone around the joints. The Velcro would be invisible, and if the keezer expired, I would be able to get the collar off.

But maybe it's a stupid idea.

I don't like the idea of using silicone all by itself because it's not much of an adhesive.
Build a collar that has a channel wide enough to "sandwich" the top of the freezer and extend down an inch or so inside the freezer and outside. Use a strip of weather stripping foam on the top of the freezer wall to "seal" the collar that is now held down on the freezer by it;s own weight and the freezer lid but is not "glued" to the freezer.
 
I don't think an inside overhang is necessary if the outside overhang is tight to the four sides of the base cabinetry (save for the hinge areas), which would be almost what @shetc described above...

Cheers!
 
YeastFeast, I see you don’t have cats. I had to go to the short black plastic handles because the cat liked to rub on the tap handle. Come home to an empty keg and a mess on the floor. They can turn them on but can’t turn them off.
 
YeastFeast, I see you don’t have cats. I had to go to the short black plastic handles because the cat liked to rub on the tap handle. Come home to an empty keg and a mess on the floor. They can turn them on but can’t turn them off.
Two words. Return springs.
 
"Clint" may want to know how that drip tray is attached (he asked me the other day how to do one) :)

Cheers!
Drip tray is attached by 4 "rare earth" magnets I took out of old computer hard drives. I glued the magnets onto the tray. Then you have easy removal for cleaning and the magnets are strong enough to easily hold full beers on the tray.
 
YeastFeast, I see you don’t have cats. I had to go to the short black plastic handles because the cat liked to rub on the tap handle. Come home to an empty keg and a mess on the floor. They can turn them on but can’t turn them off.

Funny, I do have a cat. He never messes with them and his litter box is 3 feet from there! Never considered that but now I'm surprised it hasn't happened yet!
 
Return springs? How does that work?
On forward sealing faucets (Intertap, Perlick, etc.) return springs are tapered, coil springs which are installed between the shank and the rear of the shuttle which moves rearward when the handle is pulled to allow beer to flow through the faucet. The spring pushes the shuttle forward when the handle is released, preventing the faucet from being left open. The ones I installed in my Intertap faucets cost 2 bucks apiece. Cheap insurance.
 
On forward sealing faucets (Intertap, Perlick, etc.) return springs are tapered, coil springs which are installed between the shank and the rear of the shuttle which moves rearward when the handle is pulled to allow beer to flow through the faucet. The spring pushes the shuttle forward when the handle is released, preventing the faucet from being left open. The ones I installed in my Intertap faucets cost 2 bucks apiece. Cheap insurance.
I like it. Might score some of those, just found some at RiteBrew for $1.79 for Intertap taps.
 
foam weatherstrip tape, gravity and hinges.

One sided foam tape and the collar just sits with gravity and I re-use the freezer hinges. I find that often I much prefer to lift the collar when swapping kegs. It moves all the shanks up out of the way.

The lid just sits on top. nothing but gravity.
 
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