Beginner Extract NEIPA Recipe Advice

[phusion_]

Hey homebrew wizards, I'm currently trying to plan out my next brew and would like some advice for you all. My housing setup has recently changed, and I can now only maintain a vigorous boil with ~2.8 gallons of water. I found a nice all-grain NEIPA recipe online, and I've altered it to suit my abilities. I usually do extract brews, and have halved the recipe to make a 2.5 gallon batch instead. Here is the recipe I've drafted, let me know what you think of it. I'm open to suggestions, I'm a pretty new brewer (1 successful and 2 failed batches under my belt):

Brew Method: Extract
Style Name: Specialty IPA: New England IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 2.5 gallons (fermenter volume)
Boil Size: 2.8 gallons

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.059
Final Gravity: ~1.012
ABV (standard): 6.17%
IBU (tinseth): 68.13
SRM (morey): 5.2

FERMENTABLES:
3.3 lb - DME Briess Golden Light (100%)

HOPS:

• 0.5 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.6, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 13.55
• 0.5 oz - Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 15.6, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 16.77
• 0.75 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.6, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at 170 deg F, IBU: 9.23
• 0.75 oz - Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 15.6, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at 170 deg F, IBU: 11.43
• 0.75 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.3, Use: Whirlpool for 15 min at 170 deg F, IBU: 8.28
• 0.5 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.6, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days
• 0.75 oz - Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 15.6, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days
• 0.5 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.3, Use: Dry Hop for 7 days
• 0.625 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.6, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days
• 0.75 oz - Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 15.6, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days
• 0.5 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.3, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days

IBU - 68.13

OTHER INGREDIENTS:
1/2 tablet - Whirlfloc Time: 15 min, Type: Fining, Use: Boil

YEAST:
Wyeast - London Ale III 1318, Optimum Temp: 64 - 74 F

PRIMING:
Method: 2.4 oz dextrose in 1 cup distilled water
CO2 Level: 2.6 Volumes

Fermentation temp: 71F

Let me know if you think this would be a good recipe for me to get back in to the swing of things. I'm hoping that by scaling back my size, if it's a bad batch, its not a huge loss (RIP my previous 5 gallon batch disasters).

 

[RM-MN]

NeIPA's are one of the more difficult beers to be successful at brewing because with the huge amount of hops oxygen control is crucial. If oxygen is allowed into the system such as when bottling the hop character will be quickly destroyed.

Can you tell us what went wrong with the other batches? Perhaps we can help you get consistently good batches with a different recipe.

 

[phusion_]

One batch I was a bonehead and added the yeast at like 90 degrees on accident. (Thermometer in one hand and yeast in the other). I'm not entirely sure what happened with the other batches, I never really got much hop flavor from my first and second batches (not the yeast bomb batches) and it seemed like all I could really taste was the malt extract. Any idea where I went wrong? My beer consistently turns out darker than I expect as well.

 

[phusion_]

Additionally, I'm more than open to other recipes to try until I can get a couple good ones under my belt, especially if a NeIPA is difficult to do.

 

[phusion_]

A little bit about my system/abilities:

I'm still pretty new to brewing, so I'm always learning/probably doing something wrong.

I have a secondary glass carboy, and a primary bucket that serves as my bottling bucket as well. Other than that, pretty basic stuff, no kegging or anything, usually just bottle carbonated.

 

[phusion_]

NeIPA's are one of the more difficult beers to be successful at brewing because with the huge amount of hops oxygen control is crucial. If oxygen is allowed into the system such as when bottling the hop character will be quickly destroyed.

Can you tell us what went wrong with the other batches? Perhaps we can help you get consistently good batches with a different recipe.

Is there an easy way to sort by extract recipes on the recipes page? I wasn't able to figure out how to sort by extract recipes only.

 

[RM-MN]

It's normal for extract beers to be darker than expected as the process for making the liquid extract darkens the extract. Dry malt extract may not be as dark. Oxidation also darkens beer.

Oxidation is the enemy of hoppy beers. I have found that a pale ale that was dry hopped had lost nearly all of the hop aroma by the time it was bottled for 3 months. When you transfer the beer from the fermenter to the bottling bucket is when most of the oxygen get in. With your system you have to transfer twice, once to the carboy so you can clean out the trub from the fermenter, then again as you transfer it back to set up for bottling. You might do better if you purchased a separate bottling bucket so you only have to transfer once but even with that you will introduce oxygen. An alternative is to use carbonation drops or carefully measured sugar in each bottle and bottle directly from the fermenter. A bottling wand will help avoid splashing which is when most of the oxygen gets dissolved.

If you purchase beer ingredient kits the instructions usually have you bottling after a week or even less. My beers improved when I gave them more time for the yeast to settle. They improved even more when I learned to keep them cool during the first several days of fermentation as that is when high temperatures cause the yeast to throw off flavors and create fusel alcohol.

 

[phusion_]

It's normal for extract beers to be darker than expected as the process for making the liquid extract darkens the extract. Dry malt extract may not be as dark. Oxidation also darkens beer.

Oxidation is the enemy of hoppy beers. I have found that a pale ale that was dry hopped had lost nearly all of the hop aroma by the time it was bottled for 3 months. When you transfer the beer from the fermenter to the bottling bucket is when most of the oxygen get in. With your system you have to transfer twice, once to the carboy so you can clean out the trub from the fermenter, then again as you transfer it back to set up for bottling. You might do better if you purchased a separate bottling bucket so you only have to transfer once but even with that you will introduce oxygen. An alternative is to use carbonation drops or carefully measured sugar in each bottle and bottle directly from the fermenter. A bottling wand will help avoid splashing which is when most of the oxygen gets dissolved.

If you purchase beer ingredient kits the instructions usually have you bottling after a week or even less. My beers improved when I gave them more time for the yeast to settle. They improved even more when I learned to keep them cool during the first several days of fermentation as that is when high temperatures cause the yeast to throw off flavors and create fusel alcohol.

Yeah that high temp fermentation is what threw off my last batch, especially since I pitched like 20 degrees too high like a bonehead, lol.

Do you have any recipes I might try, to get some of the basics down before I dive in to experimental combinations? I found this recipe online, but it seems like it will probably suffer from the same issues as described for the recipe I listed above. Recipe

 

[RM-MN]

I would divide that recipe in half, making just 2 1/2 gallons. You can't avoid getting oxygen in when you bottle but you don't have to make 50 bottles of beer that needs to be drunk before the end of the second month. In that short amount of time the loss of hop aroma will not be excessive if you are a bit careful how you get the beer into the bottles. There is no law that you have to make 5 gallons each batch.

The other possibility would be making a clone of Moose Drool which does not depend on the hop aroma. It's the dry hopping that is the problem area.

 

[phusion_]

I would divide that recipe in half, making just 2 1/2 gallons. You can't avoid getting oxygen in when you bottle but you don't have to make 50 bottles of beer that needs to be drunk before the end of the second month. In that short amount of time the loss of hop aroma will not be excessive if you are a bit careful how you get the beer into the bottles. There is no law that you have to make 5 gallons each batch.

The other possibility would be making a clone of Moose Drool which does not depend on the hop aroma. It's the dry hopping that is the problem area.

I found this recipe online, it seems like it would be a relatively easy attempt at a "NEIPA" like batch. Lazy haze.

 

[RM-MN]

Again, the hop aroma is what really makes a NEIPA and even this recipe will lose that aroma with time. If you drink a lot of beer, go for it. If you don't drink a lot, cut the batch in half and make it again (provided it tastes like you want) in a month or so.

 

[Davedrinksbeer]

I’d steep .5 to 1 pound of oats in there for 30 minutes at 155 degrees to give it a Neipa mouthfeel. .5 of just doing 2.5 gallons and 1 pound if doing 5 gallons. Also you can go online and look at extract recipes at Brewing Beer Supply places like MoreBeer, Austin’s and Northern Brewer(my favorite) to get ideas on all beer recipes. They have all the recipes for all
The beer kits they sell.

 

[phusion_]

Again, the hop aroma is what really makes a NEIPA and even this recipe will lose that aroma with time. If you drink a lot of beer, go for it. If you don't drink a lot, cut the batch in half and make it again (provided it tastes like you want) in a month or so.

Oh I guess I wasn't clear, I only really can get a 2.5 gallon batch boiling on my stove I have now (woohoo glass top cookers), so I do plan to cut it in half to make a smaller batch.

 

[Davedrinksbeer]

Oh I guess I wasn't clear, I only really can get a 2.5 gallon batch boiling on my stove I have now (woohoo glass top cookers), so I do plan to cut it in half to make a smaller batch.

thats a case of beer.

 

[phusion_]

thats a case of beer.

And who says you don't save money homebrewing....

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

NEIPA recipe

With NEIPAs and bottling, there have been a number of topics here at HBT that may be of interest. Here's a link to one that includes follow-up results:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...le-conditioned-ipa.653784/page-6#post-8877059

 

[MuntonsJasonC]

A few suggestions

• No need for a 60 minute boil if your first hop addition is at 10 mins. All you will be doing is carmelizing the sugars in the extract. As soon as your extract is dissolved, I would add your first hop addition and boil for ten mins.
• If concerned with color use dry malt extract.
• Use Wheat Malt Extract for at least a portion of your fermentables. The protein will add haze and soften the mouthfeel.
• You can do a five gallon batch with a partial boil. Add half of your extract before you start your boil, and add the other half at the end of your boil. Then top off with water to get to five gallons. The late extract addition will get you the same hop utilization as a full boil. More info on this is in Brewing Classic Styles.
• Commercial NEIPAs usually lean more in the hop aroma (think Trillium) or hop flavor (think Tree House) direction. Bottle conditioning, you will lose more hop aroma than you would if you were kegging. I would tweak the hop schedule to add more hops in the whirlpool and less in the dry hop to get more hop flavor.
• Some of the best NEIPAs use British malt. Muntons malt extract is made with 100% British Malt. (shameless plug)