Beginner BIAB all-grain kit suggestions

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ChiknNutz

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Looking to move up to BIAB as it appears to have all the benefits but nearly none of the drawbacks of full-on 3-step all-grain brewing. I currently have only done extract kits, have one more to go, before moving on. My preference is Belgian White Ales, Hefeweizens, Porters and Stouts. I have a 10.25G brew kettle (propane) and am also moving on to kegging (all parts ordered and set to arrive any day).

I figure it best to start with a kit so I can focus on the steps rather than the recipe. One question I have in regards to the yeast, why choose one over the other unless you already have a yest preference? I see kits offering dry and liquid yeast, with quite a variation in cost (though negligible in the grand scheme).

Another question is related to water chemistry. While I certainly understand beer is mostly water, but how much of an impact does it really make overall? I am not yet a purist, so just trying to get better but also don't want to over-complicate the process. I am on city water in a small suburb and have no filtration system in place.
 
Regardless of where you get kits, the most important thing about BIAB is being able to guarantee a consistent crush. If you’re serious about moving forward with this method or AG brewing in general, I highly recommend purchasing your own mill. I have the Cereal Killer and don’t have anything bad to say about it. Any all grain kit will be suitable. If you aren’t already, also consider using one of the many brewing calculators available to fine tune your recipes/ kits. Yeast is just a personal preference... use what you like or can afford. Personally, I only use dry yeast without rehydrating and produce pretty good beer.
As in 3 vessel brewing, water volumes are critical (that’s where the brewing calculators help)
 
Since you mentioned the Belgian white ales and hefeweizens I'll agree that you need your own mill. These beers have a lot of the fermentable sugars from wheat. Most often the wheat is not crushed sufficiently to get decent amount of sugars (mash efficiency) from them. Wheat is smaller and harder than barley and needs the mill to be set finer to get a proper crush. Once you get a mill you can order grains in bulk and crush them whenever you want to brew a batch.
 
I think the main reason liquid yeasts are popular is that they have far more variations than dry yeast has available. As for water, it is critical that you remove chlorine and chloramine, Beyond that, I would not mess with your water at this point in your brewing learning. Learn to make very good beer, playing with your water can make great beer.
 
Doesn't the simple act of boiling remove both chlorine and chloramine while boiling the wort? Or, should it be removed prior to boiling the wort?
 
I figure it best to start with a kit so I can focus on the steps rather than the recipe. One question I have in regards to the yeast, why choose one over the other unless you already have a yest preference? I see kits offering dry and liquid yeast, with quite a variation in cost (though negligible in the grand scheme).

There are many, many, many yeasts out there. I was terrified of liquid yeast at first and only used dry. Then I completely only used liquid for a time. I'm back to mostly using dry, but theres a few liquid yeasts that I trust way too much to want to shake up my recipe too much.
But honestly, there are so many good dry yeasts out there. I'm to the point where I use Nottingham for nearly all of my ales. Pale ales, stouts, porters, blondes and cream ales. Unless I'm looking to coax a certain flavor out of the yeast, I go for neutral.

Another question is related to water chemistry. While I certainly understand beer is mostly water, but how much of an impact does it really make overall? I am not yet a purist, so just trying to get better but also don't want to over-complicate the process. I am on city water in a small suburb and have no filtration system in place.
Personally, I have not done a thing to my water besides adding a crushed half campden tablet (to eliminate the aforementioned chlorine/chloramine) to my mash. Obviously everyones water situation is different, but I haven't experienced anything detrimental. Maybe I am just really lucky? But you may find out that your water just doesn't jive with brewing. Could treating water make my beers better? Probably, but like you said, its a whole extra process that I personally don't wish to fall into at this point. But a heck of a lot of folks on this forum will suggest looking into water chemistry if you end up having some sort of off flavor issue. It can make a difference. While this isn't a water chemistry thing, I would also suggest using whirlfloc. I use about a half tablet in my brews. (3-4Gal)

I would say give a kit a try with a basic, neutral yeast and see what you end up with. And get some campden tablets. They're cheap and easy to use. Its an afterthought on my brew day at this point. At worst, you brew something that is subpar, but still beer. At best, you find out that your water is flexible and produce a good beer. Either way, you're going to learn a ton and probably find yourself getting deeper immersed in the hobby. Basically, don't sweat the water stuff until you know you need to troubleshoot it. Its daunting to say the least, but at least give it a shot and see what you end up with.
 
Doesn't the simple act of boiling remove both chlorine and chloramine while boiling the wort? Or, should it be removed prior to boiling the wort?

Chlorine yes, chloramine no. I talked with the manager of a city water system. They use chloraime because it is more stable so it stays in the system longer making it cheaper. From time to time they have to use chlorine because it is more complete in killing bacteria but it outgasses whenever it can. Chloramine does not. You need to use Campden tablets to remove chloramine.
 
6 years in and I'm still using my beginner BIAB kit. Bayou Classic 44 qt kettle (Craigslist), Bayou Classic banjo burner (Craigslist), brew bag from wilserbrewer (HBT), and a locking ratchet pulley (Lowes).
 
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