I recently finished my kegerator and am having issues with foaming. I think the solution is to add longer beer lines. The lines that came with my kit from kegconnection were either 4 or 5 feet. My issue is that it is very difficult for me to remove the line from the back of my shanks and I have no desire to mess with it. So i was wondering if i got brass fittings if i could just splie about 10 ft of hose in the middle of my existing beer line. Has anyone done or heard or someone doing this? Is it going to cause more problems than it will solve?
Beer line splicing
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you could, but that is just another leaking point. Just cut the hose off behind the barb, then use a razor blade to slit the hose vertically and take it off. piece of cake. i have 12' of beer line for each tap. i run 12 psi. Not sure on the diameter of the beer line. whatever the LHBS had.
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
splices are just more agitation for the beer as it travels through the line. it'll cause foaming since you're temporarily restricting the ID of the tube.
JKoravos
Well-Known Member
What temp and pressure are you running? 15' of line is a lot.
^ +1
I had the same problem from keg cowboy. Had to take a pliers/screwdriver to pry off their clamps, then use the razorblad to split the line to take it off it was so tight. Then re-inserted with my own screw clamps and longer lines.
A pain in the a** but you'll be happier with the end result.
I had the same problem from keg cowboy. Had to take a pliers/screwdriver to pry off their clamps, then use the razorblad to split the line to take it off it was so tight. Then re-inserted with my own screw clamps and longer lines.
A pain in the a** but you'll be happier with the end result.
The splices and clamps will come pretty close to the cost of the extra line it would take to just do a bulk replacement end to end.
Generally I would opt for replacing the entire line. It just makes most sense. but if you look at my tower I constructed it's very difficult to get in to the shanks and I reall would rather not disassemble because it was difficult enough the first time. Heres a link to a picture of the tower. So I'm trying to balance the best way to fix my issue. Maybe 15' is too long but I want at least 10'.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/so-im-committed-what-do-you-think-any-changes-258346/index3.html
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/so-im-committed-what-do-you-think-any-changes-258346/index3.html
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
A problem with your setup is those really long shanks sitting out in the warm air. When cold beer hits a long warm shank it's going to foam until the shank is cooled. Longer lines will slow the flow but I think short shanks are the real solution.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
Plus one to the above about the shank length. Another likely cause of the foaming is the bend in the lines where they attach to the shanks. I suggest you get yourself some 90 degree tailpieces, shorter shanks (or cut the shanks you have shorter), and replace the entire lines.
http://www.kegworks.com/product.php?productid=174030&cat=774&page=1
http://www.kegworks.com/product.php?productid=174030&cat=774&page=1
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Commerical systems splice all the time. In fact it's a requirement for long draw systems where they use large diameter barrier tubing (5/16, 3/8) for the long run and a 3/16 vinyl tail on the draft tower to balance the system.
I don't think I'd be worried about the splice. But if you're only dealing with a direct draw system then yeah, may as well replace the entire length.
I don't think I'd be worried about the splice. But if you're only dealing with a direct draw system then yeah, may as well replace the entire length.
Check this thread out. The doohickies mentioned have allowed me to tune my kegs instead of my beer lines. I have 3+ volume brews happily pouring through the same six foot lengths of 3/16" ID vinyl as my 2+ volume brews.
Cheap and effective - a great combination
Cheers!
Cheap and effective - a great combination
Cheers!
shroomzofdoom
Well-Known Member
I am going to say 'no splice' only because I tried it and it didn't work for me. The SS splices are not as smooth as the beer line and the co2 would seem to come out at the splice at numerous little nucleation sites. If you have better luck, I would love to hear about it.
Also, please let us know how things work out with those shanks. Part of the purpose of the shanks is to provide some thermal mass to remain cool as beer runs through it. I'll bet a lot of foaming issues could be solved with shorter shanks, or the 90 degree ones that get used in standard towers. The good news is that you get extra credit for a really cool, original design but when trailblazing you always have to work out a few kinks. Nice keez...Good luck!
Also, please let us know how things work out with those shanks. Part of the purpose of the shanks is to provide some thermal mass to remain cool as beer runs through it. I'll bet a lot of foaming issues could be solved with shorter shanks, or the 90 degree ones that get used in standard towers. The good news is that you get extra credit for a really cool, original design but when trailblazing you always have to work out a few kinks. Nice keez...Good luck!
I definately see the problem with the shanks because they are too long.... but it's what I've got till i decide to take this thing apart. The reason I don't believe it is the shanks is that even after multiple consecutive pours when the shank is cool it is still very foamy. But maybe I'm wrong. Some right angle shanks would solve many problems though
I'd say try the splice, what've you got to lose? they're cheap, easy, and if it doesn't work you've got to disassemble anyway.
JKoravos
Well-Known Member
Insulate the shanks, see how that works. Pick up one of those pre-formed pieces foam rubber pipe insulation and cover as much of the exposed metal as possible.
It'll still take a few pours to get the shank to stabilize, but it will get much colder with the insulation on there.
It'll still take a few pours to get the shank to stabilize, but it will get much colder with the insulation on there.
I suppose i would have to agree. I actually already have insulation on those long shanks. Even more evidence suggesting it's the length of the line. I may try those dip tube inserts because it seems like a simple solution. Who knew a feezer would be so difficult! I thought i was done!!!
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
Consider the thermal mass of all that brass or steel, which is going to sit at ambient room temps. It takes a lot of beer flow to cool it. The insulation will help it retain it's cool but only after at least a pint or 2 flows through it. The advantage of a long shank is not just to go through a deep wall, but also the end of the shank in the cold room helps keep the whole shank cool. Yours are sitting on the end of a wood log with virtually no air movement from the freezer to chill them. I would want longer lines (I like 8') too but I think the shanks are going to have to be changed. My advice is to sell them and use the cash to get short ones. They will look better, to boot.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
The line length is certainly an issue, and splicing would be a cheap and easy way to help. Just to reiterate though, I really think you're going to need to replace those tailpieces too. I tried doing something similar to you with straight tailpieces on my custom pass through tower, and I had a lot of issues until I replaced them with some 90s. I know it doesn't look like they're kinking, but based on my experiences the angle they're bending at deforms the lines just enough to create turbulence and foam.
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I just learned that when going from one size line to another, not all line splicers are created equal. I bought some spices at my local HBS and noticed there was a 'lip' at the reduction point. I was concerned that this would cause aggitation. I ordered some reduction splices from beverage factory (I think they source from micromatic) and the splices where bored straight through with no lip.
Tought I would update everyone on how the splicing went. I have 4 foot lines and spliced another 4 feet onto the old line and it worked like a charm. My beer flow is very smooth with no foam unless I want it. Very happy with the results and saved me a lot of effort. Would certainly recommend it for anyone who it may be easier for.
LordUlrich
Well-Known Member
The draft line system at work (brew pub) has lots of splices. The thing i didn't see mentioned was use only stainless or plastic splices (we use both at the pub). Brass is bad for beer (finished beer is bad in contact with brass or copper, it causes staling iirc).
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