American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

[tgrier]

Ed.

After experimenting, I have come to the conclusion that you were correct. I do not like the flavor that Vienna gives to a beer.

What would you sub for Vienna in this recipe? CaraPils? - more 2ow and 10L?

Thanks Ed.
T

 

[EdWort]

Try a pound of wheat and an extra pound of pale.

 

[Doog_Si_Reeb]

Twenty five pages of happy brewers can't be wrong!

I went to the LHBS at lunch and picked up the ingredients to do a PM version of this recipe. I'm looking forward to it! This will be my first full boil brew and will be my second keg.

Other than doing a PM version, my only change is to use .5 oz magnum for bittering.

 

[Chello]

I brewed this after the success of your other simple recipe and i must say again i am amazed. I may just have to move down your recipe list.

I was a bit surprised however. I wasn't expecting such an intense hop aroma and flavor from an apparent house ale. But man, it has a fantastic hop flavor and a room filling aroma! And its such a fast brew as well!

Edwort does it again! Thank you!

 

[beergears]

When asked if it was OK to go from primary to bottle EdWort said:

If you want. I would leave it on the yeast for at least 10 days

Who has gone from primary to bottles with good results, and what was the schedule (and temps)?

Fantastic smell coming from my fermenter bubbler, btw!

 

[strohs]

Just finished brewing this, my first AG as with many others here
No real issues, hit my temps dead on and my equipment worked great.
I ended up boiling off more that I expected, and probably got under 5 gallons.
My OG was 1.058 (prob due to the extra boil off)
Cant wait to try this!!

 

[farmbrewernw]

Just did this as my first all grain, man all grain takes a lot more time, but I hope it's worth it in the end. I had a good time regardless, currently coming off of a deschutes abyss buzz as we speak, man that's a good beer, too bad it cost $14.95 for 22oz!!!!

 

[strohs]

almost 6 hours and no activity, I know I should RDWHAHB but thats tough to do

It looks like I maybe ended up with 4 gallons, hard to tell in a 6 gallon carboy, but it looks low, going to have to figure out where it all went

 

[EdWort]

almost 6 hours and no activity, I know I should RDWHAHB but thats tough to do

It looks like I maybe ended up with 4 gallons, hard to tell in a 6 gallon carboy, but it looks low, going to have to figure out where it all went

You have a high gravity beer, so it may take a bit longer to get started. Relax...

It will be bubbling when you wake up in the morning.

 

[strohs]

You have a high gravity beer, so it may take a bit longer to get started. Relax...

It will be bubbling when you wake up in the morning.

Sounds good

What do you recommend for increasing the amount I end up with in the fermenter? Increase the mash size? The batch sparge sizes?

 

[EdWort]

Sounds good

What do you recommend for increasing the amount I end up with in the fermenter? Increase the mash size? The batch sparge sizes?

Did you batch sparge?

 

[strohs]

Did you batch sparge?

Yes, two sparges at 6.5 quarts each

 

[imasickboy]

Okay, so I made this, kind of.

I subbed .25 lbs Crystal 90 for the Crystal 10, which gave it a beautiful amber color.

I then hopped as follows:

1 oz Cascade @ 60
1/2 oz German NB @ 30
1/4 oz German NB @ 15
1/4 oz Cascade @ 5

I then pitched half with American ale yeast and half with German ale yeast.

I bottled straight from primary after 7 days. The German is slightly hazy and is drinkable, but not outstanding. The American is crystal clear, and tasty as hell. Thanks for the bit of inspiration. Plus, I have finally decided that after several attempts, I just do not like German Ale yeast.

In summary, definitely a good recipe to play with.

 

[EdWort]

Yes, two sparges at 6.5 quarts each

For a 5.5 gallon batch, I dough in with 3.5 gallons of water. At the end of the mash, I add 1.5 gallons of 180 degree water, stir, then vorlauf & drain to kettle. I then add another 3.5 gallons of 170 degree water, stir, wait ten minutes, stir, then vorlauf & drain again. You will end up with about 7 gallons in your kettle and after about an hour, you should finish with about 5.5 gallons of wort.

 

[Surly]

My brew partner and I like to purchase a six pack of a beer of the same style we are brewing. We each enjoy one of those beers on brew day, after we take the OG reading. We can examine color. We then will have one when we bottle. And the last is as a side by side taste when the bottles are ready.

Although it is easier to do this if we are brewing a clone like we did yesterday, what would be a good national commercial comparison to Ed Wort's Pale Ale?

 

[strohs]

For a 5.5 gallon batch, I dough in with 3.5 gallons of water. At the end of the mash, I add 1.5 gallons of 180 degree water, stir, then vorlauf & drain to kettle. I then add another 3.5 gallons of 170 degree water, stir, wait ten minutes, stir, then vorlauf & drain again. You will end up with about 7 gallons in your kettle and after about an hour, you should finish with about 5.5 gallons of wort.

Thats almost identical to what I did, however I split the batch of 3.5 gallons up into 2 batches
I will just bump that up to batch sparges of 2 gallons next time and see what happens.
I wonder if the cold temperature yesterday (around 40) contributed to the excess boiloff.

Also there is still no activity.
Its a little colder in my basement than I thought it would be which might not be helping.
The fermometer is reading around 62. I kicked the heat up and I am going to give it a couple more hours, if still nothing than I am going to re-pitch.

The 2nd batch that I made yesterday after this one, a Alaskan Brewing Co. Amber Ale clone, is fermenting away nicely

 

[EdWort]

Although it is easier to do this if we are brewing a clone like we did yesterday, what would be a good national commercial comparison to Ed Wort's Pale Ale?

The closest thing I have found after someone told me, was Real Ale's Fireman's #4 Blonde. It's the closest I've tried, but is lighter on the hops.

 

[SuperiorBrew]

Was teaching a friend to brew this weekend, we did 3 batches of beer. 1 Extract, 1 Extract with specialty and late addition & one all grain. We also did a Apflwein.

We modified this recipe to use the stuff I had on hand.

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale
Brewer: SuperiorBrew
Style: American Pale Ale
TYPE: All Grain

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.5 gal
Estimated OG: 1.052 SG
Estimated Color: 5.4 SRM
Estimated IBU: 30.0 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
8 lbs Pale Malt (Rahr 2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 76.19 %
1 lbs Crystal 15 German (15.0 SRM) Grain 9.52 %
1 lbs Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 9.52 %
8.0 oz CaraFoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 4.76 %
1.00 oz Cascade Pellet 6.9% [6.90 %] (60 min) Hops 23.2 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade Pellet 4.2% [4.20 %] (30 min) Hops 5.4 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade Pellet 4.2% [4.20 %] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
1 Pkgs Nottingham Yeast (Lallemand) Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 10.50 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 3.28 gal of water at 171.2 F 154.0 F

 

[strohs]

Well I warmed it up to about 68 for a few hours and no activity
So I pitched a second packet of yeast, and 5 hours later still 0 activity.
Anybody have any suggestions? I have no idea whats wrong with this beer

meanwhile, my amber ale is fermenting like crazy right next to this one, I am stumped...

 

[farmbrewernw]

Hmm, that is funny I just made my first batch of this on Saturday, after about 3 hours a had quite a bit of activity. I have never used dry yeast or made an all grain for that matter and I must say I was quite amazed at how volatile the yeast activity is. I think I pitched around 70 degrees I would think 68 would be just fine. Did you aerate the batch before pitching the yeast?

 

[mgable]

Bottled mine Saturday, O.G. was a little high 1.056 and F.G. was 1.010 thats 6% abv I hope there is enough yeast left to carbinate in the bottle as I didn't repitch any more.Been 2weeks primary and 10 days secondary berfore botteling and looked nice and clear. How long should I let this age as the abv is on the high side? This was my first all grain brew,

 

[EdWort]

It will take 3 weeks to properly condition. Give the bottles a twist every 3 days. Let it age for a few more weeks after it's carbonated. Sampling a bottle each week will let you taste the difference.

 

[strohs]

Well, it finally took off sometime last night and is still going strong now.
Still stumped as to why it took 30+ hours to start.
cant wait to taste it!


Nor can I wait to brew it again, I want to nail this one

 

[slnies]

Well, The brew together went well and the house ale is well on its way to being beer. At first I thought that it was going to be a little dark, however, it has gotten lighter in the last day. Hmm... I thought it was infected... so I tasted it... it is fantastic! I can't wait until it is finished and bottled. I will keep you updated. Thanks for the fabulous recipe. Sean.

 

[slnies]

Well, it finally took off sometime last night and is still going strong now.
Still stumped as to why it took 30+ hours to start.
cant wait to taste it!


Nor can I wait to brew it again, I want to nail this one

My guess, is that your yeast packs were low in viable yeast. The process that is used to dry yeast is harsh to say the least, but the companies that do it, have worked out a pretty effective way to minimize the losses, this however is still not perfect, so every once in a while you get a packet that takes a while. Have hart though, the reason that dry yeast are so vigorous, is that only the strong survive, leaving only the best to ferment your beer. This is also why there is a small amount of inconsistency between the lots of yeast. Sometime the mutations that are normal to yeast adaptation are expressed in a variance in the flavor. These days though it is getting tough to tell between dry and liquid, so brew on and have no worries.

I should also state that there are many reasons that it took so long, this is my guess.

 

[strohs]

My guess, is that your yeast packs were low in viable yeast. The process that is used to dry yeast is harsh to say the least, but the companies that do it, have worked out a pretty effective way to minimize the losses, this however is still not perfect, so every once in a while you get a packet that takes a while. Have hart though, the reason that dry yeast are so vigorous, is that only the strong survive, leaving only the best to ferment your beer. This is also why there is a small amount of inconsistency between the lots of yeast. Sometime the mutations that are normal to yeast adaptation are expressed in a variance in the flavor. These days though it is getting tough to tell between dry and liquid, so brew on and have no worries.

I should also state that there are many reasons that it took so long, this is my guess.

I would venture to guess that you are correct based off how quickly it took off after I pitched the 2nd packet.

 

[EdWort]

It is just another reason to hydrate your dry yeast first. You can see if it's viable before you pitch it.

 

[newguy]

So Ed never got back to you on my HPA. I loved it!! It came out great with the safale us-05! Although I have nothing to compare it to...I would say it came out spot on for a APA. It was definitely a house favorite!

I did enjoy it much more after a few weeks in the keg. The taste was amazing!

Going to brew it up again this weekend and I'll try the Nottingham's to see the difference.

Cheers Ed and thanks again for a simple and great recipe!

 

[blacklab]

Mine was great after a week in the bottle...I had to hide it from myself to let it properly condition.

Thanks, Ed. My first AG brew was a total success! I'll be making this one over and over...

 

[Soulive]

I'll be making this one over and over...

Same here. I'll tweak it slightly to make it my Haus ale...