Barleywine Recipe - 2nd opinion?

[dragonlor20]

Hi,

So this is my first recipe formulation attempt. I pulled the general averages to shoot for from Designing Great Beers. Here is the recipe I am working with for a brew in 2 - 3 days.

Barley Wine

Batch Size: 2.5 gal
Boil Time: 90 min
OG Est.: 1.111
FG Est.: 1.035
IBUs: 77.6
ABV Est.: 10%

Grains:

Pale Malt (2 Row) - 10lb (84.7%)
Munich Malt - 0.75lb (6.4%)
Caramel/Crystal Malt - 0.7lb (5.9%)
Cara-Pils - 0.35lb (3%)​

Hops:

0.25oz Chinook (13%) @ 60min
1oz Cascade (5.5%) @ 45min
0.75oz Cascade (5.5%) @ 30min
0.75oz Cascade (5.5%) @ 15min
0.5oz Cascade @ 5min
2oz Cascade (5.5%) Dry hop for 14 days​

Yeast

English Ale #WLP002​

 

[The Blow Leprechaun]

Seems like quite a bit of crystal malt to me for a 2.5g batch, but that's a judgment call - it's certainly not unreasonable.

I'd worry about WLP002 getting the job done on a barleywine, it just never seemed that strong an attenuator to me. I like the way it tastes, but I'd have something else ready to throw into the ring if the WLP002 didn't get to the finish line.

 

[dragonlor20]

Seems like quite a bit of crystal malt to me for a 2.5g batch, but that's a judgment call - it's certainly not unreasonable.

I'd worry about WLP002 getting the job done on a barleywine, it just never seemed that strong an attenuator to me. I like the way it tastes, but I'd have something else ready to throw into the ring if the WLP002 didn't get to the finish line.

I was unsure for the yeast as the book didn't give a really strong suggestion. Have you made a barleywine and have a yeast that you prefer?

 

[oldschool]

If you want to use that yeast then choose the WLP007. It's exactly the same flavor profile but with better attenuation (up to 80%). 007 is surprisingly clean tasting and one of my go to yeasts. I have not brewed a barleywine yet but I would up the IBU since you are more than likely going to age some of those bad boys for 1+ years. A beer will lose 25% of it's bitterness every year according to Randy Mosher. As far as the crystal I think BWs are supposed to carmely/velvety. I think you are on the right track but don't be afraid to get creative in a beer that big.

 

[dragonlor20]

If you want to use that yeast then choose the WLP007. It's exactly the same flavor profile but with better attenuation (up to 80%). 007 is surprisingly clean tasting and one of my go to yeasts. I have not brewed a barleywine yet but I would up the IBU since you are more than likely going to age some of those bad boys for 1+ years. A beer will lose 25% of it's bitterness every year according to Randy Mosher. As far as the crystal I think BWs are supposed to carmely/velvety. I think you are on the right track but don't be afraid to get creative in a beer that big.

Good advice on both accounts. I have read about the IBUs decreasing over time but I totally forgot about it until you mentioned it. I will probably edge it up towards the higher end of the BW IBU spectrum and let it sink into the lower end over time... The NHC winners were using about 6% carmel malt on average, and the winners on the upper end were quite a bit more... I think it is a safe amount for the first BW brew attempt.

 

[krugulitis]

Hi,

So this is my first recipe formulation attempt. I pulled the general averages to shoot for from Designing Great Beers. Here is the recipe I am working with for a brew in 2 - 3 days.

Barley Wine

Batch Size: 2.5 gal
Boil Time: 90 min
OG Est.: 1.111
FG Est.: 1.035
IBUs: 77.6
ABV Est.: 10%

Grains:

Pale Malt (2 Row) - 10lb (84.7%)
Munich Malt - 0.75lb (6.4%)
Caramel/Crystal Malt - 0.7lb (5.9%)
Cara-Pils - 0.35lb (3%)​

Hops:

0.25oz Chinook (13%) @ 60min
1oz Cascade (5.5%) @ 45min
0.75oz Cascade (5.5%) @ 30min
0.75oz Cascade (5.5%) @ 15min
0.5oz Cascade @ 5min
2oz Cascade (5.5%) Dry hop for 14 days​

Yeast

English Ale #WLP002​

The FG you are working with is way too high - this will taste sickly sweet. I agree with the previous poster who recommended WLP007 - this yeast tore through my RIS like nothing. You will need a highly attentuative yeast like this with a OG that high. Also, I would mash low - 150. With a beer this big you are going to want to do everything possible to get the beer to finish. Obviously you are going to want a monster yeast starter as well.

On the recipe side of things - either bump the munich malt up significantly (i.e. half of the base malt or more) or get rid of it. You will not taste it at that small of a level. You may just want to go maris otter for your base malt if you want more flavor.

Also, get rid of the carapils - I can't see it contributing much to the beer. I would go with crystal 120 and 60 for the crystal malts.

On the hops, I would bump all the additions after 60 minutes to within the last 20 minutes or so. You will get better hop flavor and aroma this way.

Hope this helps.