Ball Lock Post Bulkheads

[bracconiere]

So my milk can holds 10psi. i've bulk heads installed in the lid now...


how do i get the posts off so i can install the floating dip tube?


going to be neat, being all fancy like, with this beer stuff! even if it is just a milk can...and not a conical....

you'd think i would have moved on from plastic buckets long ago! (i just needed to hit that magic 99 cent twelver, so i could save up for Stainless! )


edit: now i'm wondering if i need to keg at all...if i have two 16 gallon fermenters, i know one will fit in the fridge...and it's got gas & bev posts.....hmmmm, just need to get the dip tube on it! i could have three milk cans in rotation, as soon as one kicks. another would be carbed and cold crashed, ready to replace, and another fermenting...waiting to get cold crashed....TIA

 

[bracconiere]

Update: i got the dip tube on...tried a pressure transfer at 6 psi....and through 10' of 3/16" line...it was taking forever, can drink a keg faster! ....(all i had was my serving line available but was anxious to try it out....now i know if it's ever going to work out as hoped, 1/4" line and like only 3-4'....

i'll have to ask when the time comes, what to set the spunding on the keg to, for no foam...or do all you pressure closed transfer boys wait all day to transfer? )

sorry for my tone, i'm still excited about it....

edit: and for the record, i used the channel locks on the round thing at the bottom and a normal pair of pliers on the post....

 

[T Murph]

You're getting there. You will need to pay attention during the fermentation and adjust your spunding valve accordingly. And when transferring as long as you equalize pressures you shouldn't have much foam to deal with. If you are using your spunding value to transfer start with about 3 to 5psi and adjust up or down accordingly. Slow and steady, let the co2 do the work while you relax and have homerew.

You can most certainly serve from the fermenter using that floating dip tube.

 

[bracconiere]

You're getting there. You will need to pay attention during the fermentation and adjust your spunding valve accordingly. And when transferring as long as you equalize pressures you shouldn't have much foam to deal with. If you are using your spunding value to transfer start with about 3 to 5psi and adjust up or down accordingly. Slow and steady, let the co2 do the work while you relax and have homerew.

what do you think would be better..hooking up the keg to the bev out of the fermenter, hooking the fermenter to a gas line at 5 psi. assuming this was fermented at 5psi. pull the PRV as the keg fills with about 3' of 1/4" line between them. or put the spunding on the keg, and as you said adjust.

by better i mean faster...i'm used to filling kegs with either a 1/2" siphon, or a sump pump in seconds, not hours!

and for the record, i fixed my leaky gas post on the fermenter, and it started leaking out the lid. so it's only good for 5psi.

 

[McMullan]

For pressure transfers, if you have equalised pressure in the receiving keg you can get away with 3/8" line. I don't like to rush things, though. Pour a home brew, listen to some Iron Maiden. Pour another home brew. Why rush things?

Edit: But it's fine to listen to Rush, too. Much better than any other 3-piece band I can think of, tbh. So it's okay to Rush, just don't rush.

 

[bracconiere]

For pressure transfers, if you have equalised pressure in the receiving keg you can get away with 3/8" line. I don't like to rush things, though. Pour a home brew, listen to some Iron Maiden. Pour another home brew. Why rush things?

i'm transfering 10 gallons, into two 5 gallon cornies though, i'd be worried about gunking up the $30 spunding valve. and i only have 1/4" barb flare nuts?

 

[T Murph]

i'm transfering 10 gallons, into two 5 gallon cornies though, i'd be worried about gunking up the $30 spunding valve. and i only have 1/4" barb flare nuts?

All cleanable, just do it and you will learn what works best for you.