Don't put boiling water in your cooler! You will warp the heck out of it.tommymac said:I use a gatorade cooler as my mash tun, I usualy factored a 10 degree loss when i added the water and was usualy prety close. I like the idea of putting some boiling water in there first to warm things up.
I do this with ALL my ingredients (still a partial mash brewer for next few months). I usually do it the night before or early that morning. I use masking tape and gladware containers and have all the times and contents marked. It's great then to be able to listen to music, stir, and add at appropriate times.Drunkensatyr said:What helped me back when I started All Grain was to pre measure out all the hops, and moss and seal them in numbered zip bags and wrote the minutes to set my timer to for the next add. I remember the 1st few batches were a mental drain and it was nice to be able to sit back and enjoy the boil without having to think about what I was doing.
Would it make a difference if the tun was pre-heated to the strike water temp?I respectfully disagree about the 2-3 degree temperature drop of strike water upon introduction to the grain in an insulated mash tun. My average temperature drops on my first two ice chest tuns were 13 and 9 degrees Fahrenheit, respectively. I preheat the empty tuns with the hottest tap water I have (but not boiling water). I think the lesson here is that every brewing rig is a little different, and you've got to learn your system's ins and outs. Personally, I'd rather overshoot my target temperature by a few degrees and stir the mash with a couple of frozen water bottles than undershoot and start the cycle of boiling water additions -- which wastes time and dilutes the precious ratio of water to grain.
Maybe. Yes the idea is that you end up 5 or 5.5 or 6 gals finished wort ready for the fermenter, but a standard beer ~1.040-1.050 OG could probably start with as little as 6.5 or 7 gals collected wort. I plan to add an extra lb or 2 of grain and slightly lower efficiency so that I can do 1 hour boils and end up with 5.5 galsStupid question:
I'm currently doing extract with steeped grains, boiling my wort in a stock pot. I think that produces about two gallons of "concentrated" wort which is combined with three gallons of water to create five gallons of wort that I then pitch and ferment.
If I were to go all-grain and end up with a five gallon batch, would I create 11 gallons of "malted water" which then needs to be boiled down to 5 gallons of wort and doesn't require any further water addition?
You don't really need to cool the sample. When doing the mash I do readings at 155 degrees and add .020 to the gravity reading. At sparge temp of 166 or 167 I add .024I'm getting ready to do my first AG batch very soon and as I mull through every detail I can, I'm wondering how do you guys cool your samples quickly for gravity reading of mash and sparge runoff? I also get frustrated when I can't take gravity readings when I'm boiling a starter.
--Thanks for your suggestions.
Do you have any idea how much of a PITA it would be to heat 8-14 pounds of grain in an oven to a consistent temperature? It would either take forever and dry out the grains, or you'd use high heat and stir a lot, which is also a PITA.This may or may not be a stupid question but why are you guys so concerned with the loss of temp of the strike water when it hits the grains when you could just preheat the grains in the oven to net you a 0* loss of temp?
My initial reasoning dictates that you would not want to heat the grains up due to possibly rendering them impotent (for lack of a better term)??
But then I cannot see why you wouldn't preheat them because you are adding 155* water to them anyway, and THAT doesn't hurt anything, but on the other hand putting the grains in water (or a soluble mixture) IS different than dry heat.
I think I am moving to AG sooner than I expected. I am already sick of extract twang and I haven't even drank my first batch entirely yet.
Since most people alternate the addition of grain...then some water...then some grain...then some water (in order to avoid clumping), your grains would end up cooling down in the process.This may or may not be a stupid question but why are you guys so concerned with the loss of temp of the strike water when it hits the grains when you could just preheat the grains in the oven to net you a 0* loss of temp?
Bobby M taught me how to do it!ive been brewing mash/extract for about ten years. i love the beer i make. however, know i must move to all grain at some point. that's just how i am. is there a particular book or perhaps a video that can walk me through it? i have read the process over and over but i am still sketched on trying it. any help is greatly appreciated
Great article. I would note that I use John Palmer's formula for initial strike temperatures and I think it's worked fairly well for me. Actually I've been pretty amazed by how acurate it is:2. Heat your strike water about 2 or 3 degrees above your target temp
makes sense, so what are we talking like a gallon or 2 from the mash? plus the 6 from the sparging, 7-8 gallons, boiling that down to 5?You won't get 3.75 gal. from the mash because the grains will absorb some. However, by the sparge the grains are saturated, so the amount of sparge water you put in is the amount you'll get out.