Anyone have opinions on Bayou SQ14 or SP10?

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msa8967

mickaweapon
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Looking to move up in burner capacity from the used CL turkey fryer I purchased. I mostly do 4-6 gallon size brews but now have a 15 gallon keggle. I would like to know if anyone has opinions on these two burners (or other suggestions) sold by Amazon. These are the same price right now. I think the SP10 uses more propane from some of the online reviews. I have read through most of the online reviews and both seem to be great burners but I really trust the opinions of people from this forum.

Bayou Classic SP10
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000291GBQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


Bayou Classic SQ14
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JXYQ4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


Thanks...

Mick
 
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I bought an SQ-14 from Amazon. It works great! I have an 8 gal pot and it brings 7 gallons of cold water to a boil very quickly. I like the larger size. It will hold a big kettle or keggle.
 
I have an SP 10, no complaints, no problems. I just made the jump to AG, and it got things going quickly, and held a nice boil even at it's lowest setting.
 
IMO, either burner will work OK for a boil kettle, but the SQ-14 is somewhat more efficient and more versatile. I have one of each and I much prefer the SQ-14 as the ring type burner provides better heat distribution and also superior flame control especially at low flame levels.
 
I have sp10. works just fine. you;ll need to rig something up to use it with the sanke. i made a simple frame with slotted angle iron, works great.
 
I have 2 sq14 burners. They heat my keggles well, are reasonable in propane consumption and no "rigging" required.
 
I have an SQ-14, and love it. I chose that over the sp-10 due to it appearing to be a more sturdy structure. I don't regret my purchase at all.
 
I have had the sq -14 for almost two years. I do 5 gallon batches ( all grain ) and have never been disappointed by this burner.
 
For what it's worth, I just did some research on this myself. I chose the SQ-14 and used it to brew a couple times already. My last brew was a 10-gallon extract batch (full boil) using a 26 gallon pot in 15 degree weather. It worked fine and I'm happy with my burner purchase.
 
For what it's worth, I just did some research on this myself. I chose the SQ-14 and used it to brew a couple times already. My last brew was a 10-gallon extract batch (full boil) using a 26 gallon pot in 15 degree weather. It worked fine and I'm happy with my burner purchase.

Same here, sq-14 with 25 gal megapot, brewed 16 gallons last week in the basement (about 40-50 degrees). Takes about an hour to get to boil but it handles it. Starting volumn 20.5 gallons
 
SQ-14 is awesome. I am getting about 10 full hour boils or so from one tank. It does a super job. I crank it up to full throttle to get it boiling quickly then about half power and keeps 7 gal boils rolling for the full hour. Also, it's sturdy and low to the ground so I don't worry about tipping/wobbling.
 
I have the SQ-14 and I love it. I chopped the legs off to weld it to my rig so I cant comment on the sturdiness but I brew 5 gal AG and it's quick to get it to a boil.
 
I have an SP-10. It gets stuff hot pretty quick. The SQ-14 I also considered. It's suppose to have a finer control of flame. I can say the SP-10 is a little touchy down low. For instance I would find it difficult to maintain a mash temp with it without replacing the flow control valve.

The SQ-14 has the added benefit of being able to support a keggle if you so wanted. I use a 15.5 gal bayou classic pot so I don't have any issues with this.

I think you probably couldn't go wrong with either one.
 
Had two SQ14's for a few years and they were great. Better than the banjos, actually. Plenty of power, control, and efficiency. Plus they're small enough to be mounted easily....and the attachment point is right on the bottom.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I am going to buy the SQ14 after the next paycheck comes in. Hope the snow we have might recede by then so I can get some brewing done in the garage. We had 16+ inches of snow yesterday with 3 foot drifts but that is still less than what the east coast has had to deal with this winter.

Stay warm everyone.
 
Well the SQ14 arrived today from Amazon.com. It is missing two parts shown in the manual. One the screw to attach the burner to the stand and two the rectangular heat shield. From reading some reviews this is common.

Has anyone fashioned their own heat shield for this burner? If so, what type of metal do you recommend I try using?
 
I just got one of these recently, too. The manual seems to be from an old version of the product. I didn't get any parts, and it was pretty well assembled. Odd, but I'm hoping to test it out tomorrow and see how well it works.
 
My SP-10 already had some of the parts put together in the box when the manual said I needed to do it? Mine hadn't been purchased before either, I agree it seems like the manual is an older version?
 
You've already got it, so my 2¢ is kine of moot, but for others, here goes. The SQ-14 I used to have I liked for the frame to hold a big kettle, but the burner can blow itself out when cranked, so you can only use a 10psi reg. When I got my keggle, I really wanted more power. I would've gone w/ the SP-10 as you can put a higher PSI reg on it and crank the BTU's.

As for heat shield, I used a piece of galvanized ducting I picked up at Ace- I saw a post on here a while back and just found the pic

http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt332/king1122_/IMG_0447.jpg

post: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/burner-wind-shield-design-considerations-197332/

It worked great and is totally cheap.

you can also get leg extensions to gravity drain into a carboy

http://www.shopperschoice.com/item_...nsion-Leg-Set_item_397243.html?source=froogle
 
Thanks for posting the picture. What size (diameter) of galvanized ducting did you use? I decided to go with the sq14 because of the larger size top for more balance with my keggle and larger brew pots to come. Hadn't thought about being limited to a 10 psi regulator. I did find that a 6 mm machine screw will hold the burner in place.
 
Well the SQ14 arrived today from Amazon.com. It is missing two parts shown in the manual. One the screw to attach the burner to the stand and two the rectangular heat shield. From reading some reviews this is common.

Has anyone fashioned their own heat shield for this burner? If so, what type of metal do you recommend I try using?

I have a KAB4 which is a great choice also. It arrived with missing parts also. I called Bayou Classic and told them and they promptly sent them to me. Annoying but they took care of it.
This burner is a beast!
 
I just made a wind shield for my SQ14 like the one shown here: http://i625.photobucket.com/albums/tt332/king1122_/IMG_0447.jpg

But, I am also wondering if there will be any metal fumes caused by the galvanized layer. It's not in direct contact with the flame, but I'm sure it gets pretty hot. My brewing rig will be outdoors, but I'm still wondering if I should stand back for the first couple hours until the layer burns off. Anyone have any concerns? I might be acting a little too worried, but wasn't sure.
 
I bought the SP10 and the burner rocks. I can get my 15 gallon megapot with a rip boil no problem. It holds the full pot with no issues, despite a slight overhang.

Very sturdy, very powerful. Highly recomended.
 
I made a heat shield on Sunday and let the burner go for about an hour to start to burn any paint layers off. I might do this for a second hour this weekend before doing any brewing just to be sure.
 
The galvanized coating will burn off as well. IIRC, I made a heatshield with a 10"x12" ducting reducer. You can affix with lockwire, or maybe some kind of bar across the bottom that connects to the heatshield. Much easier than the Banjo burner, IMHO.

Keep in mind, if the heatshield is properly placed and your distance from the vessel is approx 2", you won't need to crank it. Be sure you are adjusting your intake as well. If you're missing screws, you can do what I do and head to the Home Depot with burner in hand and try stuff out.
 
All I could find is 8X10 duct reducers at HD, but even they are no longer stocking them. So there are a few around at just a couple of stores. I found one yesterday and now I have to go to another HD to get another one. I'll post a picture of mine later tonight. It's not real pretty. but it looks like it will work.
 
I have a KAB4 which is a great choice also. It arrived with missing parts also. I called Bayou Classic and told them and they promptly sent them to me. Annoying but they took care of it.
This burner is a beast!

I've been looking at that one, since it has a higher BTU listing... How fast can you get a 5 gallon batch up to boil (assuming 6-7 gallons pre-boil)?? I'm looking for one that will also do a good job with 10 gallon batch boils (so ~12 gallons pre-boil)... Need to order one up, or find one locally, this week (need to use it on the 26th)...
 
Thanks for posting the picture. What size (diameter) of galvanized ducting did you use? I decided to go with the sq14 because of the larger size top for more balance with my keggle and larger brew pots to come. Hadn't thought about being limited to a 10 psi regulator. I did find that a 6 mm machine screw will hold the burner in place.

once again- I'm too late to help, but it was approx an inch or so of space all around the burner - probably a 10" diam piece?

I agree on the frame - I really loved that aspect. I never tried it, but I guess you could replace the burner w/ a basic one and get a 30psi reg. My brew stand has the 30psi- and it is a beast!
 
Here's mine, not really pretty, but should do the job.

Burner1.jpg



Burner-2.jpg






**** the more and more I read about the health hazards of burning galvanized metal, I'm starting to second guess this idea. I might try to find some aluminum sheet.
 
I've been looking at that one, since it has a higher BTU listing... How fast can you get a 5 gallon batch up to boil (assuming 6-7 gallons pre-boil)?? I'm looking for one that will also do a good job with 10 gallon batch boils (so ~12 gallons pre-boil)... Need to order one up, or find one locally, this week (need to use it on the 26th)...

I start the burner as soon as I have about 2 gallons in the boil keggle and by the time I finish the wort collection it is starting to boil. I modified the frame by welding pieces of same size rod to the outside to make sure the keg doesn't come off. The frame is just slightly larger than the keg bottom.
I would say I'm using about a quarter of the burners capacity for a 5 gallon batch to boil.
 
I start the burner as soon as I have about 2 gallons in the boil keggle and by the time I finish the wort collection it is starting to boil. I modified the frame by welding pieces of same size rod to the outside to make sure the keg doesn't come off. The frame is just slightly larger than the keg bottom.
I would say I'm using about a quarter of the burners capacity for a 5 gallon batch to boil.

Good info... I don't have a keggle, using either a 32 or 60 quart pot for my brewing. So I don't think I'll have the same issue as you... Of course, IF I do end up with a keggle, or such, I could do the same as you and just weld up some more support rod to the unit.

I have a feeling that it will do the job for me, since I will be mainly brewing 5 gallon batches... Although I do have a BarleyWine recipe with about 22-25 pounds of grain that I'll want to make before too long... That way it has a chance to age and be great come fall.

Just need to order the sucker up tomorrow, so that I'll have it in time for the 26th...
 
I use a converted keg on my SQ-14 without any additional support rods etc. The keg rests securely and safely on the stand. Been doing it this way for years without problems. I have several burners and the SQ-14 is my favorite by far. I do not use a wind screen of any kind.
 
Does anyone else have a problem with getting a nice blue flame with the wind shield on? My flame is blue without it but partially yellow with it on because its starved for oxygen and the mixture is a lean as it will go. Richer makes it yellower.
 
Does anyone else have a problem with getting a nice blue flame with the wind shield on? My flame is blue without it but partially yellow with it on because its starved for oxygen and the mixture is a lean as it will go. Richer makes it yellower.


What does your wind shield look like? Do you have a picture?
 
I used aluminum (sp?) flashing from lowes and a few pop rivets. Works great for me.

image-1617187760.jpg
 
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