Anyone ever convert Corny opening to 4” TC?

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Komodo

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I’m considering it, though it’s a nice 10G Spartanburg so I’m really hesitant. The problem is a 6” is too big, and the 4” runs over the lid flange area. It would need to be hammered flat on two ends. I’ve done a fair but of metalworking, but stainless is not super malleable and it’s not an easy space to work. I’ve got a 4” flange and a great welder (person) to use.

Anyone ever try it or see it done?
My goal is a 4” TC cap with cooling coil to use it as a chiller and dedicated fermenter.

It’s also conceivable to use the IN / OUT somehow for the coil, but it would be fixed and hard to install and clean.
 

beersk

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No, but someone needs to do this with the 1/4 barrel sanke kegs to make a fermenter. I don't know why one of the brewing outlets hasn't done this yet. They all use those stupid short, fat kegs. Not good dimensions. The 1/4 barrel ones would be perfect for 5 gallon batches.
 

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^^ Yes! What @beersk just said.... Hang on to that 10G, and just find a used sankey to do it too.. much easier to work with a perfectly symetrical surface and if you get one of modern sub-1/2 barrel sizes, the extra headspace will just mean less krausen out your blow-off or through your spunding valve. They do sell those, but the cost is high, since you already have the flange and a welder, just hit the used sankey market.
 

Yesfan

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No, but someone needs to do this with the 1/4 barrel sanke kegs to make a fermenter. I don't know why one of the brewing outlets hasn't done this yet. They all use those stupid short, fat kegs. Not good dimensions. The 1/4 barrel ones would be perfect for 5 gallon batches.

Clawhammer does something similar with a 6G corny, but they want your first born for it compared to other offerings.
 
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Komodo

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They aren’t easy to find, but I ran across this one for a very little $, and I know for sure I’ll never use it as a corny for serving so I’m inclined to move forward. If you add a prv to a cap, it would basically be back to a corny again. I’m doing 6G batches, probably 6.5 into fermenter so it’s perfect. Are their Sankeys in 10G?
 

Whisky River

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A little bigger than I think you were talking about, but this one is listed in the classifieds now…No affiliation but looks like a pretty good deal.


 

Brooothru

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I’m considering it, though it’s a nice 10G Spartanburg so I’m really hesitant. The problem is a 6” is too big, and the 4” runs over the lid flange area. It would need to be hammered flat on two ends. I’ve done a fair but of metalworking, but stainless is not super malleable and it’s not an easy space to work. I’ve got a 4” flange and a great welder (person) to use.

Anyone ever try it or see it done?
My goal is a 4” TC cap with cooling coil to use it as a chiller and dedicated fermenter.

It’s also conceivable to use the IN / OUT somehow for the coil, but it would be fixed and hard to install and clean.
1/6 bbl Sanke Keg with Tri-Clamp Removable Spear (5 Gallon)

A little pricey but fits the bill perfectly. It’s a sixtel with a 4” TC. I paired the keg with a Kegland 4” TC lid that is configured with Gas In and Liquid Out QD posts and a 1.5” TC port for whatever TC devices you want to add. The Beer Out port has a floating dip tube.

The sixtel keg is nearly the same size as a standard 5 gallon Corny keg (fits inside my 2 keg kegerator) and can be used directly for lagering and serving. For fermenting I fit a T-fitting on the 1.5” TC port, with a 90 degree elbow on the “T”. I mount a Spike combo spunding valve/PRV/pressure gauge, and run a CoolStix glycol chilling rod vertically into the keg through the 1.5” TC.

Functionally it is a temperature controlled, pressure capable unitank with pressure gauge and safety relief. In this configuration I can ferment, carbonate, and transfer clear beer to a serving keg (or serve directly) for ~$350.



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Komodo

Komodo

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@Brooothru That’s exactly my goal. But the critical part here is the 10G. I’m doing 6G batches with around 6.5G in fermenter. Space is a huge consideration for me, thus no 1/2bb. Believe me, I understand the hesitation to touch a 10G corny, but the benefit is just too great. It will have the same capability as a regular corny as long as it’s welded good and can pass pressure test.

I’ll post pics but it may take awhile. The welder I want to is somewhat of a drive away, and I’ll be getting several things done and don’t have all the stuff yet.
 

Brooothru

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I had a similar conundrum in reverse. I’d gotten a 7.6 gallon kegmenter from Kegland to augment my 7 gallon Unitank and Chronical. Functionally it did everything I wanted it to do, but it was just too large and unwieldy for my 73 year old body.

This sixtel-sized keg is just the ticket, plus I’m starting to focus on smaller batch sizes (~3 gallon) since my consumption has decreased while my desire to brew more often has increased.

Def a 1st World dilemma. So many beers, so little time.
 

Yesfan

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@Brooothru That’s exactly my goal. But the critical part here is the 10G. I’m doing 6G batches with around 6.5G in fermenter. Space is a huge consideration for me, thus no 1/2bb. Believe me, I understand the hesitation to touch a 10G corny, but the benefit is just too great. It will have the same capability as a regular corny as long as it’s welded good and can pass pressure test.

I’ll post pics but it may take awhile. The welder I want to is somewhat of a drive away, and I’ll be getting several things done and don’t have all the stuff yet.

What about the 10 gallon Megamouth Torpedo kegs? LINK

It has the bale style lid like standard cornys, but they are much larger. If you're just wanting something that's easier to get inside to clean, the Megamouth should fit the bill. It's your cheapest option for a 10 gallon keg and it's taller and skinner compared to the short/fat kegmenters from Kegland that have the 4" triclamp. You could always add a triclamp bulkhead to the lid (I did this with my 15 G standard corny). If you screw the lid up, you can order replacement lids from More Beer.
 
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