Anybody want to check out my plans for an extract brew?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I created an itinerary of sorts. I'm really trying to make an AWESOME extract brew before my jump to all grain and I was hoping you could offer some tips, critiques, etc. Thanks!

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwctiHfWcqS-TGJXWjRQMmNWUDg/edit?pli=1

Looks good. You've clearly done your homework. Only two small pointers:

1. I have the best luck with starters made about 24 hours before pitching. YMMV.

2. When you're adding the LME, turn the burner down or off. This prevents the LME from getting burned and caramelized on the bottom of the kettle. Burner off. Add LME. Stir like crazy. Burner on.

Otherwise, you've got it. One other tip that will help when you make the jump to all-grain is to start practicing temperature control. Pick a steeping temp and try to nail it. For example, tell yourself you want to steep at 160F, and try to steep at EXACTLY that temp.

When you go to all-grain and start mashing, temp control is an essential skill. It's not as important for your procedure, but it never hurts to start practicing. This was one of the biggest adjustments I had to make in transitioning to a proper mash.
 
Thanks for taking a look! I added turning off the burner to my copy for brew day. Also, I'm going to aim for 160* for steeping as you stated. That seems like good advice.
 
Thanks for taking a look! I added turning off the burner to my copy for brew day. Also, I'm going to aim for 160* for steeping as you stated. That seems like good advice.

One thing to point out on this one...

If you want to hit a 160* steep, you're going to need to heat your steeping water beyond 160* as you'll get a sudden dip in temperature once you add your room temperature grain.

This is something AG brewers deal with all of the time.

A mash calculator can help tell you want temp you should shoot for based on the volume of steeping water, temp, and the amount of grain you're adding. There are a number of them around, but here's one of them:

http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash/

I actually used that calculator for my first BIAB mini-mash two weeks ago, and while I overshot my initial temp by a few degrees (well within RDWHAHB range), it was a great learning experience.

Also, I don't know how big your pot is, but when I stir in DME, I don't just turn the flame off, but actually lift my kettle, set it on a trivet, and add. Pulling the kettle completely off the burner helps to reduce hot spots, and frankly, if I inadvertently splash a little during the addition, sticky wort is easier to clean off the counter top than it is to clean off my stove.

Good luck!
 
And just as a follow-up, when it comes to holding that steeping temperature, my BIAB mini-mash dropped only 4 degrees in an hour long mash by using this ultra hi-tech method....

Take kettle off flame, set on trivet, and wrap in two blankets.

I even opened it up, lid and all, every 15 minutes or so to give everything a gentle stir, and still lost only 4 degrees during the hour.

Cheers!
 
One thing to point out on this one...

If you want to hit a 160* steep, you're going to need to heat your steeping water beyond 160* as you'll get a sudden dip in temperature once you add your room temperature grain.

This is something AG brewers deal with all of the time.

A mash calculator can help tell you want temp you should shoot for based on the volume of steeping water, temp, and the amount of grain you're adding. There are a number of them around, but here's one of them:

http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash/

I actually used that calculator for my first BIAB mini-mash two weeks ago, and while I overshot my initial temp by a few degrees (well within RDWHAHB range), it was a great learning experience.

Also, I don't know how big your pot is, but when I stir in DME, I don't just turn the flame off, but actually lift my kettle, set it on a trivet, and add. Pulling the kettle completely off the burner helps to reduce hot spots, and frankly, if I inadvertently splash a little during the addition, sticky wort is easier to clean off the counter top than it is to clean off my stove.

Good luck!

Yup. The actual equation governing the amount of the temp drop is:

Strike Water Temperature Tw = (.2/R)(T2 - T1) + T2

R = Ratio of water to grain in quarts per pound
T1 = the temperature of the grains in Fahrenheit (or Celsius)
T2 = the target temperature of the mash in Fahrenheit (or Celsius)

Source: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Infusion_Mashing

I set this up in a spreadsheet for each of my brews. I input the basics, like room temperature, target mash temp, mash density (which is also a calculation based on specific inputs)... and it spits out the strike water temp. I nail the mash temp every time with this equation.

In this case, my point to the OP was more along the lines of getting the water to a pre-determined strike temp, not final steeping temp, which will be lower than strike temp per the above equation. I should have been more specific.
 
I created a strike water calculator in excel. This is going to be incredibly useful. Thanks for the info!
 
This may be a little off topic but I wonder why people find it so hard to control temp I use a nat gas and when I hit my temp I just turn the burner to its lowest setting and it works perfect every time steady as can be. Just lucky I guess. I only measure temp at the top inch or two of the wort because my digital probe isnt waterproof wonder if the temp is consistent all the way to the bottom.
 
I only measure temp at the top inch or two of the wort because my digital probe isnt waterproof wonder if the temp is consistent all the way to the bottom.

You could always stir the water to disperse the heat throughout and then take the temp.
 
Back
Top