ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

[Brushwood Brewing]

For maintaining fermentation temperatures, I have always used a water bath technique. I place the fermenter in a tub of water and use a sous vide to control the temperature.

I recently purchased a used Anvil Foundry 10.5 and was wondering if I could use that instead of the sous vide. I've been considering fermenting in 5gal corny kegs, and I couldn't help but notice it looks like a keg would fit inside the Foundry perfectly. I'd make sure the keg is raised off of the heating element, place it in, and then fill the Foundry with water until the keg is mostly submerged.

Has anyone tried this, either with a Foundry or another all-in-one electric system? It would involve keeping the Foundry running at 60F - 80F for up to two weeks at a time, mostly unattended. I can't think of a reason why the Foundry couldn't handle it, but I also don't want to risk damage.

 

[tracer bullet]

Many people here have fermented directly in it at elevated temperatures and it's worked. For what that's worth anyhow.

 

[sweetcell]

For maintaining fermentation temperatures, I have always used a water bath technique. I place the fermenter in a tub of water and use a sous vide to control the temperature.

I recently purchased a used Anvil Foundry 10.5 and was wondering if I could use that instead of the sous vide. I've been considering fermenting in 5gal corny kegs, and I couldn't help but notice it looks like a keg would fit inside the Foundry perfectly. I'd make sure the keg is raised off of the heating element, place it in, and then fill the Foundry with water until the keg is mostly submerged.

Has anyone tried this, either with a Foundry or another all-in-one electric system? It would involve keeping the Foundry running at 60F - 80F for up to two weeks at a time, mostly unattended. I can't think of a reason why the Foundry couldn't handle it, but I also don't want to risk damage.

other than endurance (foundry might not have been tested/intended for 2 weeks of constant use), i don't see why this wouldn't work. have you reached out to Anvil/Blichmann to ask?

you'll want to place it in a space where the ambient temp is below your desired fermentation temp, so it has some cooling potential.

 

[Grizwold1]

I have done this for the last 3 brews with no issues--admittedly a short sample span. Also in my case I have only used it for the first week of fermentation and then let it go to ambient. (c. 55 degrees)
edit: be sure to make sure that you have water in the unit. (ask me how I know)

 

[Brushwood Brewing]

Many people here have fermented directly in it at elevated temperatures and it's worked. For what that's worth anyhow.

It hadn't even crossed my mind to ferment in it directly. That would solve the issue of only being able to fit 4gal fermenting inside a keg. I'm assuming you'd pump the wort of the foundry post-boil, clean out the bottom, and then return the wort to the foundry. Though maybe that's not necessary? It would certainly be easier to leave all the solids in and just ferment as-is. ... After reading your comment, I tried googling it, but couldn't find any post (here or elsewhere) where someone described having successfully done it.

Can anyone point me toward a resource (post, article, video, etc.) where someone has done this?

 

[tracer bullet]

Buried in the previous 60 pages! Someone who's done it will hopefully reply.

Good question on clearing the trub. Or not clearing it. I don't recall them saying. I didn't plan to do it so I didn't pay a lot of attention.

 

[bleme]

People argue (convincingly) both sides of whether those solids are harmful or helpful. I generally leave them out of my fermentor, but I've left them in at least a dozen times with no noticeable effect.

 

[DarrellQ]

Disaster (non)-brew day. I had a friend drive 50 miles to my house because he wanted to see the brew process as he is interested in brewing. So, we milled the grains, added the water to the Foundry, added the acids, powered it on and got an E1 error. It worked fine during the last brew day. I unplugged it, dumped the water and pushed the reset, same result. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Googled the error code, no help. Opened-up the bottom and everything looks fine, no evidence whatsoever of any water infiltration. I did continuity checks on fuses, etc. I have the display siliconed and have never had any water or wort touch the display panel other than a drop here and there. How can it go bad just sitting? With no water in it the actual temperature reads "0" and the set temp reads "39" while E1 is flashing. Any ideas?

 

[IslandLizard]

[...] powered it on and got an E1 error

This may offer some help or insights:

First all grain brew in anvil foundry 10.5

Hello all, So doing my first all grain brew in a new Anvil foundry 10.5 . Set to 220volts and warming up my strike water to 159°f at 100% power. While this is heating up I'm milling my grains (11.5lb).. gap set to .028" with feeler gauges.. Here is a picture . Let me know what u think?

www.homebrewtalk.com

 

[DarrellQ]

This may offer some help or insights:

First all grain brew in anvil foundry 10.5

Hello all, So doing my first all grain brew in a new Anvil foundry 10.5 . Set to 220volts and warming up my strike water to 159°f at 100% power. While this is heating up I'm milling my grains (11.5lb).. gap set to .028" with feeler gauges.. Here is a picture . Let me know what u think?

www.homebrewtalk.com

Very helpful, thank you! So, I guess I just order new fan and switch and see if replacing those solves the problem?

 

[tracer bullet]

I'd also try contacting Anvil / Blichmann. It would seem their days of being slammed are somewhat over and they are responsive again. It seems historically they've always done the right thing but for a while it was pretty slow. You may get advice or even parts from them, perhaps even free parts.

 

[IslandLizard]

I guess I just order new fan and switch

Error Code 01 points to an open circuit.
Did you watch the video?

Do the fan and switch seem to be the problem?

 

[DarrellQ]

I'd also try contacting Anvil / Blichmann. It would seem their days of being slammed are somewhat over and they are responsive again. It seems historically they've always done the right thing but for a while it was pretty slow. You may get advice or even parts from them, perhaps even free parts.

Good info, thanks!

 

[DarrellQ]

Error Code 01 points to an open circuit.
Did you watch the video?

Do the fan and switch seem to be the problem?

So I removed the fan and applied 12 volts to it from a 12 volt power supply (I realize the fan is 18 volts) and it worked fine. I removed the reset switch and I don't know how much travel is expected from the button? It doesn't go in very far at all. Maybe it only pops out upon heat default, dunno.

 

[IslandLizard]

So I removed the fan and applied 12 volts to it from a 12 volt power supply (I realize the fan is 18 volts) and it worked fine. I removed the reset switch and I don't know how much travel is expected from the button? It doesn't go in very far at all. Maybe it only pops out upon heat default, dunno.

It could well be a spring activated switch-off due to overload, too high a current or too high a temperature.
Pressing it may (should?) reset it, yes. Have you tried that?

If that doesn't fix it, I'd contact Anvil/Blichmann, as @tracer bullet already suggested. Don't start ordering parts until you know what the issue is.

 

[DarrellQ]

It could well be a spring activated switch-off due to overload, too high a current or too high a temperature.
Pressing it may (should?) reset it, yes. Have you tried that?

If that doesn't fix it, I'd contact Anvil/Blichmann, as @tracer bullet already suggested. Don't start ordering parts until you know what the issue is.

Yes, I tried that. I removed the long rod and spring that contacts the switch button and removed the switch and tried to just push the button. It doesn't seem to push in more than a couple millimeters. I don't if won't push in because it hasn't popped out or if that is the way it is suppose to act?

 

[Oginme]

Yes, I tried that. I removed the long rod and spring that contacts the switch button and removed the switch and tried to just push the button. It doesn't seem to push in more than a couple millimeters. I don't if won't push in because it hasn't popped out or if that is the way it is suppose to act?

As others have said, contact Anvil/Blichmann. They responded to the couple of issues I have had (1st gen Foundry) very quickly and sent me what was needed to get the machine back up and running, including upgrading the fuse with a breaker at no charge.

 

[Ballaratguy]

I’ve got the Guten (Australian) which I believe is that same as the anvil
I converted mine and bypassed the original controller and connected a Grainfather Control box
Gee that is a game changer for the Guten

 

[tracer bullet]

I’ve got the Guten (Australian) which I believe is that same as the anvil

Hmm, pretty sure it's not the same

 

[Ozarks_Mountain_Brew]

have you looked at this pdf, scroll down to the error code under trouble shooting

THE UNOFFICIAL ANVIL FOUNDRY BIBLE_11_25_2020.pdf

View and download THE UNOFFICIAL ANVIL FOUNDRY BIBLE_11_25_2020.pdf on DocDroid

www.docdroid.net

TROUBLESHOOTING
E1 Error Code
User reported that they called Anvil Tech Support and they suggested DISCONNECTING
THE POWER then removing the black base of the Anvil and check the connections. There
was a white ribbon cable to the control board that was not firmly set into the socket. A
couple of screws got an extra quarter turn. Put it back together and should heat up
without any error codes.

 

[DarrellQ]

Got this rapid reply from Anvil: "The E1 code is referring to a faulty temperature sensor. Check all wiring to make sure everything is tight, clean and free from debris. If everything looks good then the temperature sensor needs replaced. Foundry™ Temp Sensor

 

[tracer bullet]

Got this rapid reply from Anvil: "The E1 code is referring to a faulty temperature sensor. Check all wiring to make sure everything is tight, clean and free from debris. If everything looks good then the temperature sensor needs replaced. Foundry™ Temp Sensor

If you own a multimeter there's a chance you can check the temp sensor itself. Probe the wires and look for it having a connection, maybe a particular impedance? I don't have the details but am willing to bet you could get an idea if it's working or not before you buy another. Then again... it might just deepen the rabbit hole if you convince yourself it's working but it really isn't.

 

[IslandLizard]

I removed the long rod and spring that contacts the switch button and removed the switch and tried to just push the button.

If you own a multimeter, as @tracer bullet suggested, you can test most components for resistance and continuity, such as that "reset" switch and temp probe. Make sure the unit is switched off and unplugged!
Temp probes are typically (generic) NTC "resistors," changing resistance as a function of the temp.

You can also test/check working voltages when the unit is plugged in and switched on. But beware, you're dealing with 120V or 240V, which are potentially lethal, so know what you're doing, and keep one hand in your pocket.

 

[mantaray]

What process do you follow for disconnecting pump hoses without dumping beer everywhere?

It seems like I cannot help but make a mess in the kitchen.

With the Anvil 6.5 on the counter, last time I did the following:
1. Shutoff Valve
2. Disconnect hose from spigot
3. Drop hose in bucket that is sitting on the floor
4. Let beer drain

Getting all the beer out (especially on the "out" side of the pump) was still a challenge. I still succeeded in making a mess.

Is there a better way? Thank you.

 

[tracer bullet]

You are talking after cool down, headed to the fermenter?

Before I close the shut-off valve at the Anvil, I raise the pump in the air. It has the effect of sort of "draining" much of what is in the pump and lines backwards into the kettle. For me it only takes a few seconds for the level of the wort to flow backwards through the pump itself and into that line, and so at that point the pump and the outlet are "dry". Well they are drained anyhow.

Then I close the valve on the Anvil itself. Then disconnect the pumps inlet line at the pump itself while it is still in the air, pinch it with my fingers a bit, and redirect it to the fermenter. Lastly open the valve again.

Hope that made sense.

 

[Ozarks_Mountain_Brew]

What process do you follow for disconnecting pump hoses without dumping beer everywhere?

It seems like I cannot help but make a mess in the kitchen.

With the Anvil 6.5 on the counter, last time I did the following:
1. Shutoff Valve
2. Disconnect hose from spigot
3. Drop hose in bucket that is sitting on the floor
4. Let beer drain

Getting all the beer out (especially on the "out" side of the pump) was still a challenge. I still succeeded in making a mess.

Is there a better way? Thank you.

I have a large shallow Tupperware container, unhook one at a time, collect then dump

 

[JoeSpartaNJ]

I have a large shallow Tupperware container, unhook one at a time, collect then dump

I have a stainless steel bowl, but I do the same.

 

[kevin58]

What process do you follow for disconnecting pump hoses without dumping beer everywhere?

It seems like I cannot help but make a mess in the kitchen.

With the Anvil 6.5 on the counter, last time I did the following:
1. Shutoff Valve
2. Disconnect hose from spigot
3. Drop hose in bucket that is sitting on the floor
4. Let beer drain

Getting all the beer out (especially on the "out" side of the pump) was still a challenge. I still succeeded in making a mess.

Is there a better way? Thank you.

Put a T valve inline between the pump and the kettle. Not my pic... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210209/8dc2cf506abd9acbe65e781719075a50.jpg

 

[bleme]

What process do you follow for disconnecting pump hoses without dumping beer everywhere?

I brew on the porch, just in case but...
After mash, close valve.
Remove THIS clamp
Hold the sparge arm over a small glass and lift the pump to get as much as I can out.
Put a dish towel under the valve and disconnect
Run hot water through, both ways, while the Anvil gets to boil temp

After chilling, I set the Anvil on a milk crate which puts the valve just over my bucket fermentor, and gravity drain.

 

[NSMikeD]

I got anvil's stainless steel plate for the pump and then added a ball valve and quick disconnect to the outgoing (and a quick disconnect to pump side incoming). I use a camber 1 liter liquid container (the low and wide profile. I shut off the ball locks and put hold the container under the quick disconnects and drain each line individually and them dump the wort back in.

I also have the whirlpool arm and have to disconnect it so it doesn't form a siphon when I unhook the quick disconnect.