ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

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Grizwold1

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Having read thru all 32 pages of this my head aches and my memory all blends into one blur. My question is probably answered but if you will please indulge me--if I were to brew indoors (6.5 G. unit) how does one deal with the steam? Is a hood/fan/ducting required? I have been brewing on and off for about 10 years but have always used an outdoor propane cooler/keggle setup. Looking for something easy on the old bones and this really seems to fill the bill.
thanks to all for all the info in this and other threads!
Grizwold
 

Knightshade

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Just go buy it!

Don't know of any changes made since top controller unit was released. As far a sealing, I sealed mine around the black plastic to the kettle and around the display with silicone. I have seen others use DYI ideas including someone using I think it was glad wrap that sticks (wasn't pretty but worked and removable). John Blichmann is aware of the issue and says they are working on something. I have heard of at least a few that got enough water on the controller to fail it and they were replaced under warranty.
Seconded!!!

and kudos for reading through the pages. Loads of good info. I came across the site when I had a Picobrew and they have many more pages of info. It did start to blur together, but tidbits...some good ones in there as well as here.
 

Knightshade

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Having read thru all 32 pages of this my head aches and my memory all blends into one blur. My question is probably answered but if you will please indulge me--if I were to brew indoors (6.5 G. unit) how does one deal with the steam? Is a hood/fan/ducting required? I have been brewing on and off for about 10 years but have always used an outdoor propane cooler/keggle setup. Looking for something easy on the old bones and this really seems to fill the bill.
thanks to all for all the info in this and other threads!
Grizwold
Probably depends on how enclosed your indoor area is? You might be able to just set it near a window and utilize a fan. That is something that I do as I brew in my garage. I leave the bay door open and am setup near a side door and set up a fan to blow the steam out that side door during the boil

I believe somebody fairly recent in this thread mentioned utilizing a Steam Slayer.

Other options would include what you mentioned, a duct fan or something like that.
 

mbg

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Having read thru all 32 pages of this my head aches and my memory all blends into one blur. My question is probably answered but if you will please indulge me--if I were to brew indoors (6.5 G. unit) how does one deal with the steam? Is a hood/fan/ducting required? I have been brewing on and off for about 10 years but have always used an outdoor propane cooler/keggle setup. Looking for something easy on the old bones and this really seems to fill the bill.
thanks to all for all the info in this and other threads!
Grizwold
I'm in the Chicago area and always brew outside but I think it depends what the outside temperature is. I see some just put the kettle next to an open door or window, brew close to a stove exhaust fan, dedicate an exhaust fan to brewing, and a more expensive route but some use a condenser system like the Steam Slayer that BrewHardware offers.
 

LagerLover78

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Just go buy it!

Don't know of any changes made since top controller unit was released. As far a sealing, I sealed mine around the black plastic to the kettle and around the display with silicone. I have seen others use DYI ideas including someone using I think it was glad wrap that sticks (wasn't pretty but worked and removable). John Blichmann is aware of the issue and says they are working on something. I have heard of at least a few that got enough water on the controller to fail it and they were replaced under warranty.
Thanks for the kick in the pants...sometimes I need it! Lol

I'd be curious to see what the solution is. Only because I'm the curious type.
 

LagerLover78

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Seconded!!!

and kudos for reading through the pages. Loads of good info. I came across the site when I had a Picobrew and they have many more pages of info. It did start to blur together, but tidbits...some good ones in there as well as here.
Yes! You are correct! Tons of good info! My GF always sends a few jabs my way...when I go down a rabbit hole of content it's usually over beer and/or brewing, smoking meat, cars or music...she just shakes her head and says nothing some days. Lol😂
 

NSMikeD

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Having read thru all 32 pages of this my head aches and my memory all blends into one blur. My question is probably answered but if you will please indulge me--if I were to brew indoors (6.5 G. unit) how does one deal with the steam? Is a hood/fan/ducting required? I have been brewing on and off for about 10 years but have always used an outdoor propane cooler/keggle setup. Looking for something easy on the old bones and this really seems to fill the bill.
thanks to all for all the info in this and other threads!
Grizwold

I've thought more about this. The 6.5 suggested default evaporation rate in BeerSmith (based on user feedback) is 1/2 gallon per hour. That should not cause much more than fogging windows on a cold day. In fact, in the winter I probably add more than that to a humidifier.

I have a window fan in my kitchen to help exhaust odors and smoke. I didn't turn it on this first "upstairs" brew, but I gather it would be sufficient to ensure removal of excess moisture. It may not be sufficient to remover mash smell for those residents that don't care for that, but falls under the happy wife, happy life discussions.
 

tracer bullet

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I use a home-made steam slayer, I was able to get a bunch of the parts for free so I didn't need much more than a couple NPT adapters and a sprayer. It worked well, I was a touch nervous but it did the job fine. Zero steam in the house and way less smell as well.

I'd suggest it as an option for certain, if you think you need steam reduction. Brew Hardware has what you need as a kit, just add a bulkhead and additional tube or two to fit the Foundry lid. I can say from ordering other things from them in the past they are a great shop. Bobby from there is on the boards often as well and is really helpful.
 

Grizwold1

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I've thought more about this. The 6.5 suggested default evaporation rate in BeerSmith (based on user feedback) is 1/2 gallon per hour. That should not cause much more than fogging windows on a cold day. In fact, in the winter I probably add more than that to a humidifier.
Hmm...wouldn't have thought that. Maybe it's not something I need to obsess over. Just open the garage door a bit and point a fan out. would sure simplify the transition from the old system I have been using. With the small unit may not even need the 220 altho I have access to it already. Thanks--
 

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NSMikeD is right. Daily humidity plays a big role. I brewed a couple weeks back in the basement on a particularly dry day and was concerned about the steam. Turns out it just made the room feel better. Wouldn’t do it in the summer on a humid day, though. I tried putting a dehumidifier above the unit when boiling but that didn’t turn out to be very effective.
 

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I've done a few test boils with just water in my new 10.5 on 120V in our basement laundry room. I observed that the humidity to start in the room was about 48%, and after an hour boil it was about 72%. There is a window in that room so I will just open that and blow out the steam with a fan if my starting humidity is too high.
 

LagerLover78

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Heard back from Anvil...the welded feet/wings on the malt basket that rest on the ring are gone on the new models and there are screw on brackets...ring no longer needed.

Check out picture 4 on their website for the 10.5 gallon unit.

Not sure how the malt basket would fit inside the boil kettle without scraping the living crap out of the sides of the boil kettle...I'm probably missing something though...long day at work
 

Summa_Brewologica

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Heard back from Anvil...the welded feet/wings on the malt basket that rest on the ring are gone on the new models and there are screw on brackets...ring no longer needed.

Check out picture 4 on their website for the 10.5 gallon unit.

Not sure how the malt basket would fit inside the boil kettle without scraping the living crap out of the sides of the boil kettle...I'm probably missing something though...long day at work
It scrapes the living crap out of the sides, anyway, before this upgrade. I’m glad that this company listens to their customers. That should not go unnoticed. It is, however, a little frustrating to have to be one of the guinea pigs. It is what it is, I suppose.
 

LagerLover78

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It scrapes the living crap out of the sides, anyway, before this upgrade. I’m glad that this company listens to their customers. That should not go unnoticed. It is, however, a little frustrating to have to be one of the guinea pigs. It is what it is, I suppose.
Agreed. Its amazing howmany other companies do the exact opposite and wonder why they loose customer base.
 

Knightshade

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So they like all of a sudden flex out when you lift it above the rim? I have often wondered if/when those feet are going to give out resting on the ring.
 

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I feel like Im missing something with these new malt-pipe hooks. How can they fit on the inside of the anvil AND also on the outside of the kettle rim?.....wait....if there are ONLY two of these then they might hook onto the side and the malt-pipe is kinda resting at a slight angle? kind of like the spike solo basket? not sure I would like that. Never minded the ring myself but yes, the current pipe attachments have scratched my kettle a few times due to the tight fit.
 

mbg

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Heard back from Anvil...the welded feet/wings on the malt basket that rest on the ring are gone on the new models and there are screw on brackets...ring no longer needed.

Check out picture 4 on their website for the 10.5 gallon unit.

Not sure how the malt basket would fit inside the boil kettle without scraping the living crap out of the sides of the boil kettle...I'm probably missing something though...long day at work
Saw one on the FB group and there are only two brackets. Don't know if I like that but it must work.
 

LagerLover78

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I feel like Im missing something with these new malt-pipe hooks. How can they fit on the inside of the anvil AND also on the outside of the kettle rim?.....wait....if there are ONLY two of these then they might hook onto the side and the malt-pipe is kinda resting at a slight angle? kind of like the spike solo basket? not sure I would like that. Never minded the ring myself but yes, the current pipe attachments have scratched my kettle a few times due to the tight fit.
EXACTLY! The other thing is that if there are only 2 hooks and its leaning to one side, that and the center of gravity would appear to be higher which would make it more apt to tipping over.
 

trogdor447

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Yeesh, its been a while since I've logged in to HBT... but boy how things have changed.

At any rate... I'm curious what the thoughts are for the pump kit with/without. I have been doing some research on the side and many folks just buy different pumps to use instead of the 100 dollar kit. Can put one together for a much more reasonable price. Is there any benefits to actually buying the Anvil with the Pump kit? Does anyone have any experience on the % with / without the pump. And lastly, how much of a difference does it make in the clarity of the beer? Some say a lot, but if you twist the drain to pull from the side not the bottom and kettle and transfer in sixtels would this be necessary?

Also looking at the M&B, but I don't know that I'd be comfortable with the smaller volume. Although I don't see many differences here at the price point other than one would have the pump vs the other not. So that is leaning me right into the Anvil. The included wort chiller and all is worth the upgrade IMO. As well as control unit on the top. Also the next big selling point is the still upgrade down the line.

Wish I was really looking at this for some holiday extras.. But it is what it is. Thanks in advance

Cheers
 

Summa_Brewologica

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I have a riptide pump so I did not get the pump kit. My first brew I did without the pump and with a bag no sparge and it went great. The second brew I did with a pump and without a bag (sparged) and it was a little rough. The third brew I did with a pump and with a wilser bag and it was great. I do notice a bit more clarity with the pump recirculating and it did keep the temperature a little more uniform when comparing top temp to bottom (onboard) temp.
That being said, the first brew I did without the pump was my favorite home brew to date. I just kegged my third, yesterday, and will try it tonight.

I don’t even try to do any home brew competitions so I have never really cared too much about clarity of beer, so long as it tastes good. It is a nice bonus, though, and I do love that riptide pump. You could always get it without the pump and add one later, though (anvil or other).

edit: when I say kegged my third I meant that third brew with the foundry (pump and bag).
 

trogdor447

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I have a riptide pump so I did not get the pump kit. My first brew I did without the pump and with a bag no sparge and it went great. The second brew I did with a pump and without a bag (sparged) and it was a little rough. The third brew I did with a pump and with a wilser bag and it was great. I do notice a bit more clarity with the pump recirculating and it did keep the temperature a little more uniform when comparing top temp to bottom (onboard) temp.
That being said, the first brew I did without the pump was my favorite home brew to date. I just kegged my third, yesterday, and will try it tonight.

I don’t even try to do any home brew competitions so I have never really cared too much about clarity of beer, so long as it tastes good. It is a nice bonus, though, and I do love that riptide pump. You could always get it without the pump and add one later, though (anvil or other).

edit: when I say kegged my third I meant that third brew with the foundry (pump and bag).
Recommend using a bag in it? seen mixed feelings on stuck mash with them. However the sides being drilled out is very appealing and should prevent stuck mashes compared to the M&B. I'm likely ordering the one with the Pump kit, just curious mostly
 

Summa_Brewologica

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Recommend using a bag in it? seen mixed feelings on stuck mash with them. However the sides being drilled out is very appealing and should prevent stuck mashes compared to the M&B. I'm likely ordering the one with the Pump kit, just curious mostly
I recommended the bag just because at this point in my life I need as simple and streamlined a process as possible and it really helps with cleanup and not having to worry about crush size as much. So I do recommend it if your goal aligns with mine. I think you could do fine without but you will have to dial in the crush and/or add rice hulls.
 

mbg

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I recommended the bag just because at this point in my life I need as simple and streamlined a process as possible and it really helps with cleanup and not having to worry about crush size as much. So I do recommend it if your goal aligns with mine. I think you could do fine without but you will have to dial in the crush and/or add rice hulls.
I know you need another piece of equipment but I think I have converted myself into a false bottom with bag and no pipe. In addition to dunk sparging in a separate cooler.
 

Summa_Brewologica

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I know you need another piece of equipment but I think I have converted myself into a false bottom with bag and no pipe. In addition to dunk sparging in a separate cooler.
Haha I just ordered one of those like 2 hours ago. That brewzilla.
 

Knightshade

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I bought mine w/o the pump, but only because I had every intention of just getting a Riptide. I seem to think that the Anvil either came w/the recirculation disk, or you could purchase it as an accessory when I purchased mine this summer. Either way...that doesn't look like an option today?

I use the pump when I'm whirl pooling, which I'm doing while chilling. Running the whirlpool in the opposite direction of the chiller has led to decreased (or at least it seems like it has) chilling times. I also use it while cleaning the unit, makes things a lot easier I think.
 

Summa_Brewologica

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I bought mine w/o the pump, but only because I had every intention of just getting a Riptide. I seem to think that the Anvil either came w/the recirculation disk, or you could purchase it as an accessory when I purchased mine this summer. Either way...that doesn't look like an option today?

I use the pump when I'm whirl pooling, which I'm doing while chilling. Running the whirlpool in the opposite direction of the chiller has led to decreased (or at least it seems like it has) chilling times. I also use it while cleaning the unit, makes things a lot easier I think.
If you are talking about the recirculating disc I just bought one a couple weeks ago. They forgot to include the eye bolt but they did send one out, no charge, when I brought it to their attention. They still offer it, it is under “parts” rather than “accessories.”
 

Summa_Brewologica

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I know you need another piece of equipment but I think I have converted myself into a false bottom with bag and no pipe. In addition to dunk sparging in a separate cooler.
Do you see any issue with the false bottom and small batches? Since I got one on the way, I’m wondering if this will exempt a purchase of that small batch ring when I decide to try a small batch.
 

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I would think a bag in the 10.5 gal Anvil would allow you to exceed the 16lb grain limit. With 26 brews with the Anvil and mash tube, with the RIMS pumping back through the grains, I get the clear wort to boil. A bag without the mash tube would allow more grains, but most of my brews do not exceed that limit. I use a strainer to filter and Aerate with very little grain captured in the strainer. I understand brewers buying the 6.5 gal for small batches, but the 10.5 can do both for not much money.
 

franknbeans

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i bought one of these earlier in the year (older model with control on the bottom) and after the first use, I set the basket down on the ground after scrubbing it and one of the feet broke off. I have a buddy that works in a weld shop thankfully that tacked it back on, and put some beads on the rest to hopefully keep it from happening again. The metal is super thin, so I get it. but the design could have been better with how the feet and sides were attached, or even made more sturdy. It's a neat unit and nice to have just one vessel, but I'm not real impressed with the build quality.
 

bwible

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I believe you can buy the disk separately:
The perforated disk comes in the pump kit also. It’s made to sit inside of the top of the mash basket/malt pipe. If you don’t intend to use the mash basket, there’s no place for the perforated disk to sit. It’s too small to sit anywhere at the top of the foundry and there’s nothing to support it. The perforated disk is useless if you don’t intend to use the mash basket or malt pipe or whatever you want to call it. I know there are a couple discussions going on here.

You need the false bottom to keep your bag off the heating element where it might scorch or melt but I think you guys covered that.

I’m not going to knock that little Anvil pump. No, it’s not the Riptide. But it costs half as much and its a great, solid, quiet little pump that works real well. I like it.
 

renstyle

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I'm also thinking of going to smaller batches so I can brew more. I have a keezer with four 5-gal cornys. Is there any issues using 5-gal kegs for 2.5 gal brews?
Not a problem at all. I ferment in kegs and harvest ferm CO2 to purge the serving keg, so no extra tank usage to clear the headspace for a 2.5gal batch.

Basically identical to using a 2.5/3gal serving keg other than the size.
 

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After a few of the replies I went ahead and ordered the pump kit with it. Might as well for convenience of having it all in one. I've made a lot of waste with brew setup purchases in the past. I do not believe I'll be regretting this one!
 

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After a few of the replies I went ahead and ordered the pump kit with it. Might as well for convenience of having it all in one. I've made a lot of waste with brew setup purchases in the past. I do not believe I'll be regretting this one!
Good choice. Since I’ve been focusing on temperature throughout the beer making process I have noticed I’ve been making better beer more consistently. IMO, the Foundry goes a long way in that quest but that the pump makes for more even mash temp as well as improves contact between the water and grains. Furthermore, IMO, it also helps with the chilling process.

For me, the pump was a no brained and and this opinion is reinforced with each brew.
Enjoy.
 
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trogdor447

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Good choice. Since I’ve been focusing on temperature throughout the beer making process I have notice aide been making better beer more consistently. IMO, the Foundry goes a long way in that quest but that the pump makes for more even mash temp as well as improves contact between the water and grains. Furthermore, IMO, it also helps with the chilling process.

For me, the pump was a no brained and and this opinion is reinforced with each brew.
Enjoy.
Yep, I mean it gets me off the glass top stove with the Coleman giant brew pot + fermenter and the entire kitchen taken up for half a day =) and eventually gets mew out into the garage
 

LagerLover78

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I happened to be looking at the Norther Brewer pump and it referenced a temperature rating of up to 240F.

Does anyone know what the temp rating on the Anvil pump is?
 

LagerLover78

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I happened to be looking at the Norther Brewer pump and it referenced a temperature rating of up to 240F.

Does anyone know what the temp rating on the Anvil pump is?
I have seen people mention they use it during chilling, but was just thinking in terms of additional wear and tear on high temp usage.
 

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The Anvil Foundry instructions do not mention any issue of excessive temperature. In the absence of any such warning, I will assume boiling wort is not a problem.
 

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