Another keg-hopping question...

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NHMikeT

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First thread started here -
I'm dry-hopping my house IPA in the keg for the first time and decided to try 4-5 days at room temp (about 65 degF) then put in the kegerator. I'm just wondering if I should start carbonating at room temp as well? If I'm targeting 2.3 vols CO2 that would be starting the gas at about 22psi then dropping the pressure to 11-12 psi after placing in kegerator.

My guess is either way works, but just looking for some outside opinions here. So seal and start dry-hopping without CO2, or start both at same time?

If it matters I'm using 2oz Centennial/1oz Citra leaf hops in the stainless brewing cylinder.

Cheers!
 
I like to get some carbonation in my kegs at room temp primarily to ensure the keg stays sealed. I usually accomplish this by hitting with 25-30 psi for 1-2 days at room temp. Being room temp, it doesn't get too much carbonation into solution after only 1-2 days but it does get enough to reduce the carbing time in the fridge a little AND ensure my lids don't break their seal during the wait. In other words, I'm all for you starting to carb at room temp. :D
 
For a different data point...I dry hop before kegging then often dry hop in the keg, especially on my ipas. I chill and fully carb first then stuff in whole cone hops in a muslin bag and leave it until the keg kicks...

Cheers!
 
For a different data point...I dry hop before kegging then often dry hop in the keg, especially on my ipas. I chill and fully carb first then stuff in whole cone hops in a muslin bag and leave it until the keg kicks...

Cheers!

aren't you concerned about introducing O2?
 
Nope. Short of finding a way to nitro or CO2 flush the cones it's a classic RDWHAHB thing.

But, fwiw, this has never introduced an oxidative character in all the years I've been doing this. May be due to a combination of cold and short life span (we do enjoy our IPAs ;) )

Cheers!
 
day-trippr - what about foaming? I've read that adding dry hops to already-carbed beer will create a lot of foaming. I added just over 2oz of whole hops into the stainless dry-hopper (this thing: http://stainlessbrewing.3dcartstores.com/Dry-Hopper-with-twist-cap_p_155.html) and sealed the keg up under 22psi. I'm going to let it sit 3 days without gas, the put in the kegerator at serving pressure.

I was hoping the stainless cylinder would fit more hops, but I felt like if it were packed any tighter the ones in the center wouldn't get saturated.
 
If the keg is well chilled (say mid 30s) you can do a lot to it without it 'sploding in your face. When I keg hop I always use cones in a sanitized muslin bag and have not had any problems dunking the bag in a cold keg. And that's with barely a quart or so of head space, too. It's just not a problem.

Now I wouldn't even try this with a warm-carbed keg. You just know that would really piss off the beer gods and they'd bring down their wrath...

Cheers!
 
If the keg is well chilled (say mid 30s) you can do a lot to it without it 'sploding in your face. When I keg hop I always use cones in a sanitized muslin bag and have not had any problems dunking the bag in a cold keg. And that's with barely a quart or so of head space, too. It's just not a problem.

Now I wouldn't even try this with a warm-carbed keg. You just know that would really piss off the beer gods and they're bring down their wrath...

Cheers!

^^That, right there! :D
 
HAHA, sweet. Thanks for the tip. Good to know in case I want to put another charge of hops half-way through the keg.
 
aren't you concerned about introducing O2?

what you do is put you hops for dry hopping in to a bag that you have soaked in a starsan solution, in the keg first, then you fill the keg with Co2, the Co2 displaces the oxygen within the hops, then fill keg with yummy beer.
 
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