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Hey all...

So haven't started brewing yet, but trying to do a lot of research before hand to make myself as successful as I can be for a homebrew experience.

First, I live in Guam and have limited supplies that will actually ship here. In some cases, that limitation is the cost it takes to ship items here (others are the fact that the company wont ship here).

I plan to get the deluxe homebrew kit from Morebeer.com. It includes:
  • 6 Gallon Fermonster fermenter with spigot, stopper and airlock
  • Five Gallon Stainless Steel Kettle
  • Food-Greade Bottling Bucket with spigot
  • Mesh Bags for steeping grain and hops on brew day
  • Thermometer for easy temperature management
  • Hydrometer for making key sugar readings
  • Transfer Tubing
  • Bottling Wand with shut off valve
  • Sturdy Bottle Capper
  • Bottle Caps
  • Bottle Cleaning Brush
  • Star San Sanitizer for true sanitization
  • Large Stainless Steel Spoon for mixing
  • Craftmeister Cleaning Tablets for easy cleaning
  • Delicious American Pale Ale recipe kit with yeast
In comparing some of the other sites that sell kits, the only thing I can think of that I might need is a funnel. I know a funnel will be faster, but also not necessary. Is the kit missing anything else you might suggest to make a successful experience?

As a side note, I do have the bottles already.

Thanks for all the help!
 
If you plan on doing bottles you will still need roughly 50 22 oz bottles, if you plan on kegging, all of the equipment for that. I bottle and I have not checked into what all is needed for that. I should say, enough bottles to cover 5 gals.
 
Thanks for the quick response guys!
In regards to the temperature for fermentation, that is the part I am a bit more confused on. How do I know if the temperature is ambient or actual? More so, in the future...when I pick recipe kits, how will I know what temperature they ferment at?

My plan was to use the big wash tub in my laundry room and give it an ice bath (using frozen 2L bottles). I don't know how well that will turn out--we keep our house in the upper 70s, and fermentation lasts 7-10 days. Seems like a long time to regulate temperature with ice. I don't think I want to buy a small refrigerator just to put this in it, but if the price is right, I would. I haven't checked into building a swamp cooler--not sure the setup I would need for brewing; any online resources you may have would be appreciated.

Thanks again!
 
After a couple batches you'll probably find yourself wishing you had a larger kettle. It's a little more tricky brewing 5 gallon batches in a 5 gallon kettle, but it can be done.
The "premium" kit is a great option or you can buy components separately. A lot of people like BIAB and generally recommend a 10-15 gallon kettle for 5 gallon batches.

A "swamp cooler" is as easy as setting the fermentor in a tray of water, putting a shirt over the fermentor so the bottom is in the water, and possibly pointing a fan at it. The water wicks up the shirt and evaporates, causing cooling.

Some yeast strains ferment fairly clean in the 70s like US-05.
 
Thanks for the quick response guys!
In regards to the temperature for fermentation, that is the part I am a bit more confused on. How do I know if the temperature is ambient or actual? More so, in the future...when I pick recipe kits, how will I know what temperature they ferment at?

My plan was to use the big wash tub in my laundry room and give it an ice bath (using frozen 2L bottles). I don't know how well that will turn out--we keep our house in the upper 70s, and fermentation lasts 7-10 days. Seems like a long time to regulate temperature with ice. I don't think I want to buy a small refrigerator just to put this in it, but if the price is right, I would. I haven't checked into building a swamp cooler--not sure the setup I would need for brewing; any online resources you may have would be appreciated.

Thanks again!

Ambient temperature is the temperature in the room. The process of fermentation gives off heat so your fermenter will be warmer than ambient during the active part of the fermentation. My beers sit in an ambient temperature of 62 and the actual temp is usually 64 or 65. If my ambient was 70 however, the actual beer temp would likely be closer to 76 because the yeast activity is faster at that little bit higher temperature and as ambient goes up, the yeast work faster and give off more heat yet. Fermentation does last the 7 to 10 days but the only part that needs the temperature controlled is the early part which is usually over on day 3 and from then on the yeast are doing cleanup where the temperature doesn't matter much and warmer is better.
 
RM-MN brings up two very solid points. Ambient temp means almost nothing. We need to pay attention to the temp of the contents of our fermenter. This is best achieved by taping your temp probe to the outside of your fermenter or using a thermowell.

Also, the most crucial point during fermentation is the first 72 hours. Keep the beer at a constant steady and controlled temp for those first three days then allow it to raise gradually to 70. This will encourage the yeast to finish their job and cleanup all the byproducts of fermentation which could result in off flavors in your finished beers. Once you hit your final gravity you can either bottle or cold crash.
 
On fermentation temperature: if you are going to have difficulty maintaining temperatures, one option might be ordering Omega's Hot Head Ale yeast (OYL-057) - it stays neutral from the 60s all the way up to the mid 90s (per Omega). Belgian yeasts (trappist, saison) also like it hot.

Instead of cobbling together something to keep your fermentor temperatures 10° or more below your ambient household temperature, especially starting out, pick a style and yeast that do well at your household temperature.
 
Awesome! Thanks for the assist. I will be buying my set in March (which helps force me to do some research).

Not to double post, but I also asked in the DIY thread about Son of Fermentaion Chiller--specifically, if it was still relevant to homebrew. I am considering using it.

Alternatively, I could go with a recipe kit that likes higher temps--just not sure how to find that out.

Thanks again all.
 
Awesome! Thanks for the assist. I will be buying my set in March (which helps force me to do some research).

Not to double post, but I also asked in the DIY thread about Son of Fermentaion Chiller--specifically, if it was still relevant to homebrew. I am considering using it.

Alternatively, I could go with a recipe kit that likes higher temps--just not sure how to find that out.

Thanks again all.

Everything is relevant in world of homebrew...people who brew are from all over the world with different means at their disposal...the son of a fermentation chiller is one out of many ways to regulate your fermentation temp.
 
I have a fermonster w/ a spigot as one of my fermenters. I would consider single vessel fermentation. The spigot should sit above the trub-line. skip the siphon, pop the air-lock and drain. I set it on the counter and use a length of tube to transfer.

I would also consider a few extra gaskets and a strap-wrench. Sometimes the fermonster lids are overtightened while trying to get a good seal.

And be careful with exact priming sugar given the warmer ambient air temperature in your area.
 
S-Met,
Ya, I think I am sticking with single vessel fermentation. Thanks for the tip on the extra gaskets and strap-wrench...will look into those.

Priming sugar isn't much I have looked into--I am hoping the instructions will be as precise as I need. I guess I don't know enough about that process to ask any specific questions, but thank you for relating it to the ambient temperature here--I will keep that in mind as well.
 
S-Met,
Ya, I think I am sticking with single vessel fermentation. Thanks for the tip on the extra gaskets and strap-wrench...will look into those.

Priming sugar isn't much I have looked into--I am hoping the instructions will be as precise as I need. I guess I don't know enough about that process to ask any specific questions, but thank you for relating it to the ambient temperature here--I will keep that in mind as well.

If you don't overtighten the lid you won't destroy the gaskets and won't need the strap wrench. The only reason that people seem to need that great seal is so they can watch the airlock bubble. Fermentation happens even without the airlock bubbliing and a slight leak around the lid won't negatively impact the beer.

Priming sugar for bottling is something you need to be aware of. I use this priming calculator.

http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

Note that the temperature asked for is the temperature your beer reached during fermentation as that affects how much residual CO2 is in the beer.
 
If you don't overtighten the lid you won't destroy the gaskets and won't need the strap wrench. The only reason that people seem to need that great seal is so they can watch the airlock bubble. Fermentation happens even without the airlock bubbliing and a slight leak around the lid won't negatively impact the beer.

Priming sugar for bottling is something you need to be aware of. I use this priming calculator.

http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

Note that the temperature asked for is the temperature your beer reached during fermentation as that affects how much residual CO2 is in the beer.

I had to go check the calculator out. Right now I am still doing extract and I just follow the instructions. I bottles a milk chocolate stout and per instruction I added 5 oz of corn sugar, (priming sugar) According to the calculator I should of only used 3.7 oz. to me this seems like a big difference. So far I have had no bombs, but if I am able to reduce the priming sugar, that would be great.
 
If you don't overtighten the lid you won't destroy the gaskets and won't need the strap wrench.

People don't usually intend to overtighten, but hard to get a grip on the top when they accidentally do. Seals are optional for fermentation, but I have an additional solid lid without bung port. Seal is necessary to minimize leaking and oxidation for storage/transport. I use the fermonster sometimes for bulk juice transport on wine.
 
Don't if you can help it. But if you need to, push from both sides with your fingers @ 10 & 2 positions while running under gentle faucet water. PITA to get back in, usually stretches in the process and needs to be replaced. Others may have a better process than I.
 
On the cooling front, your tub with frozen bottles is in effect a swamp cooler, even better if you drape an old t-shirt or towel over the fermenter. This should work well in the upper 70s ambient for most ales. Another option for warmer ferments is a saison yeast if you like the spicy phenolic flavors.
 
Tried my first brew today after 24+ hrs in the fridge. While I am not a fan of Pale Ales...I must admit, it was pretty good!

I am waiting on a delayed shipment of bottle caps so I can start my second brew--was hoping to do it this weekend, but I'm afraid that the shipment will be delayed too long and I wont have caps for the beer.
 

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Tried my first brew today after 24+ hrs in the fridge. While I am not a fan of Pale Ales...I must admit, it was pretty good!

I am waiting on a delayed shipment of bottle caps so I can start my second brew--was hoping to do it this weekend, but I'm afraid that the shipment will be delayed too long and I wont have caps for the beer.

Other than the Cowboys logo, looks great.
 
Congrats on the first brew. Keep working at the hobby and your beers will only get better. But the nexr step is to get rid of that glass.
 
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