am I missing anything?

[spitfire]

Ok, I am going to put my order in for my keezer build and want to make sure I am not missing anything. To note, I will be doing a 4 tap keezer but might only buy enough to setup 2 taps to start due to lack of funds so please keep that in mind when reviewing my list.
Cornies(pepsi)
I will be getting 4 of these for free.
First thing I will do is clean then and replace the O rings
Anything else I should replace while I am at it?
Are there any other fittings or hardware that I will need to use these?

Taps
2 faucets
2 wing nuts for faucets
2 shanks (what is the average length to use? I will be making a custom wood tower and the wood will only be 3/4" thick)
Do I need anything else in regards to the faucets? any other fittings needed?

Gas
I will be doing 2 (eventually 4) cornies. I want to use 1 regulator and 5# tank.

I was going to use
wye splitter
2 stainless T's
I guess I will need shutoff for each line as well right? Which makes me wonder, would it just be easier and cheaper to start with a 4 way distributor for 50 bucks?
If I use the wye splitter but only use a single keg to start how will I control the gas to that section? I would need a shutoff valve on each part of the wye splitter right?

I know I will need tubing but I am not that concerned about that right now as I plan to just buy that locally.


I read through a lot of pages in the kegging section and couldn't find all the answers so I thought I would post. I really don't want to order only to have to order again.

 

[jpc]

For the kegs, I start by removing the labels on the outside using a razor blade and Goo-Gone. Then, I clean using warm PBW, recirculated through the in/out connectors for about 20 minutes. I then remove the disconnects, replace all o-rings, inspect the inside, and use Bar Keeper's Friend as needed to remove rust/repassivate the stainless. For the disconnects, I remove the poppets and soak in warm PBW overnight. For the lid, unscrew the pressure relief valve and clean with PBW.

In addition to the wing nuts, you'll need tail pieces for the shanks (and the rubber washers). I used 4" shanks to go through 1 1/2" thick PVC fencing. Also, if your run is short, I'd suggest using a 1/4" barbed tail piece and 3/16" beer line. Don't forget that you'll also need a couple quick-connects (one grey gas and one black liquid) for each keg; I like the barbed connections for the gas and the threaded 1/4" for the liquid. The threaded also means buying tail pieces, and you'll need clamps for the barbed fittings... I prefer the stepless Oetiger clamps. They require a "special" tool.

You can get away with splitting the gas line with a wye connector, but if you plan on doing beers with different carbonation levels, you'll eventually need a secondary regulator (e.g., my GF like Wit, with a higher carbonation than my typical bitter/porter). I'd also recommend larger CO2 tank, if you can afford it.

-John

 

[spitfire]

Ok so I wasn't sure if I needed the quick connects or not. I didn't know if they would be on the kegs or not. I added those to my list as well. 3/16 tube is what I was going to use so I guess I will go with the 1/4 barb.

I won't be able to do a larger gas tank to start but will upgrade at some point in time. I don't mind running the same carb for each beer for a while until I get another regulator.

I want to make sure I am understanding this part correctly.

If I only have 2 kegs setup and I use the wye splitter. I need to have a shutoff right at the wye splitter? That would control the gas for each line right? So that would mean if I had 2 kegs setup and kicked one and removed it from the keezer I would not be able to shut the gas off because I would shut it off to my full keg as well right?

Is it better to put the shutoff valve more towards the keg so each tube/keg is controlled buy it's own shutoff, much like a distributor block would work right?

 

[jpc]

The quick-connects will not let the gas flow when not connected, but I still like to have a shut-off myself. I am adding a four-way manifold (with shutoffs and check valves) to my system soon.

 

[spitfire]

The quick-connects will not let the gas flow when not connected, but I still like to have a shut-off myself. I am adding a four-way manifold (with shutoffs and check valves) to my system soon.

Ok, so as long as the line is hooked up to the quick connect but not connected to the keg the gas can't leak anywhere? Just want to make sure. If I go with the wye splitter instead of the manifold I will save a few bucks.

 

[MikeG]

From my experience, 2 nice to haves:
1) Get Perlick faucets (I'm close to considering these must-haves)
2) Dual gauge regulator. I have have not yet needed to have two different carbonation levels but if I ever do, I'm [crud] outta luck.

I've got a single gauge into a manifold and it has individual cut-offs, you may want to go ahead and get two two way (if you follow advice #2) or a single 4-way manifold but when you pull the disconnect from the corny it shuts the co2 supply off.

 

[spitfire]

At this point I am considering those as "future upgrades" I will eventually go to the perlicks but right away. I am actually going to try to buy used first then new if need be.

So really I wouldn't even need the shutoff valve shown on the wye splitter here, Wye Splitter Assembly w/ 5/16" Barb :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies just the wye splitter on it's own will work fine too

 

[spitfire]

Quick question on tubing. I was going to use 3/16 I.D for the beer but what about the gas? Also, what size barb fitting do I need to go into the wye fitting?

 

[spitfire]

Another quick question. If I buy the shanks with the welded nipple then I don't need the tail piece for the shank right?

 

[spitfire]

Anybody? I am trying to order today if I still can and don't want to order the wrong parts.

 

[jpc]

From my experience, 2 nice to haves:
1) Get Perlick faucets (I'm close to considering these must-haves)
2) Dual gauge regulator. I have have not yet needed to have two different carbonation levels but if I ever do, I'm [crud] outta luck.

A typical dual-gauge regulator has a high-pressure (tank) side gauge and a low-pressure (regulator output) side gauge... it doesn't have the ability to set two separate pressures.

What you are describing is a dual regulator, with the ability to set two different pressures. This will be a lot more expensive than a standard two-gauge (one output) regulator.

To the OP:

Correct, if you get barbed shanks you don't need a tailpiece (just clamp the line to the barb). I went with separate tailpieces for maximum flexibility; if the barb is part of the shank, it cannot be switched out for a larger or smaller size. If the barbed shank has a 1/4" barb, you will be OK.

For gas line, size doesn't matter (or so the women say ) but IIRC 5/16" is the same cost (or close to it) as 1/4", and when I looked, most barbed gas line fittings seem to be 5/16".

I also ordered the Perlicks, BTW, since so many people have stated that they've had issues with the standard (rear-sealing) faucets. Not cheap, but cheaper than buying standard faucets and then replacing them.

-John

 

[MikeG]

My bad, jpc is correct about the dual-gauge regulator, I mean the one that has to separate pressure outputs.

 

[Jaysus]

you got any pics of the finished product?