Am I doing this wrong

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

bxtzd3

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Messages
172
Reaction score
5
Location
JIM THORPE
So i have my tun all set. But I can't get it to flow water. Is the braid to long? At first if I tilted it it would go then stop. This stinks.

ForumRunner_20130708_210318.png



ForumRunner_20130708_210341.png
 

IslandLizard

Progressive Brewing
Staff member
Mod
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
17,553
Reaction score
7,655
Location
Pasadena, MD
The bulkhead inlet needs to be under water. The braid is "open" and not a hose. The inlet needs to be submerged for water to flow.

To reduce the bottom deadspace, install an airtight assembly from the bulkhead inlet to the lower lying braid (or manifold), such as a bend pipe, tubing, or a hose.
 

poislb

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2011
Messages
1,277
Reaction score
69
Location
Kenosha
Fill it up with more water, put a hose/tube on your hose barb to create a siphon....She will only drain as high as the ball valve without a hose/tube on the end of your ball valve barb (the hose is needed to creat the siphon effect)
 
OP
bxtzd3

bxtzd3

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Messages
172
Reaction score
5
Location
JIM THORPE
ah, thought it was an easy fix.ill see tomorrow
 

kh54s10

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Aug 6, 2011
Messages
18,728
Reaction score
5,469
Location
Edgewater

BlindFaith

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
303
Reaction score
8
Location
Lexington
You do have holes cut in your tubing right? If not, that is your problem IMO. I have a brass square head plug (Watts #737) in the end of my tubing with a SS clamp to keep anything out.
 
OP
bxtzd3

bxtzd3

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Messages
172
Reaction score
5
Location
JIM THORPE
You do have holes cut in your tubing right? If not, that is your problem IMO. I have a brass square head plug (Watts #737) in the end of my tubing with a SS clamp to keep anything out.
its stainless steel braid. holes already there. i know its ugly but it was a test run.
 

BlindFaith

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
303
Reaction score
8
Location
Lexington
its stainless steel braid. holes already there. i know its ugly but it was a test run.
It is just a braid with no tubing inside? Wouldn't that collapse under the weight of the grist anyhow?

I buy my SS braid in 12" sections, cut the fittings off, push the braid off of the tubing, cut staggered holes into a 12" piece of 3/8" tubing, and then run that through the stainless braid and I have never had any issues outside of one stuck sparge when my plug came out the back of the tubing.
 
OP
bxtzd3

bxtzd3

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Messages
172
Reaction score
5
Location
JIM THORPE
ok, i took my 50 qt cooler back and got a 70 with the outlet in the right spot. i also picked up a 18" braided hose 3/4" wide and cooper wire for bracing inside the hose. i think this will be better. yes/no?
 

chawagi

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Messages
160
Reaction score
40
Location
Spring Hill
It is just a braid with no tubing inside? Wouldn't that collapse under the weight of the grist anyhow?
Hi, Guys.

Quality stainless braiding should hold up to the weight with out collapsing. If it collapses it is most likely that faux SS plastic crap.

I'm very much a noob, but it seems the problem with the lack of internal tubing and such a long braid will be the tendancy for the braid to flex downward rather than collapse. Since the braid is an open filtration system and not a sealed hose, only the length of the braid that is level to the valve inlet will be effective. I think this will result in less area to filter the wort and more possibility for a stuck sparge.

I'm not sure what cooper wire is, but if it holds the braid level with the valve, it should be okay in my inexperienced opinion.
 

dmashl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2012
Messages
359
Reaction score
30
Location
De Pere
I put coiled(around pencil) 16 gauge wire in my braid to prevent the braid from possibly collapsing.
 

jakenbacon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2011
Messages
606
Reaction score
100
Location
Glendale
Hi, Guys.

Quality stainless braiding should hold up to the weight with out collapsing. If it collapses it is most likely that faux SS plastic crap.

I'm very much a noob, but it seems the problem with the lack of internal tubing and such a long braid will be the tendancy for the braid to flex downward rather than collapse. Since the braid is an open filtration system and not a sealed hose, only the length of the braid that is level to the valve inlet will be effective. I think this will result in less area to filter the wort and more possibility for a stuck sparge.

I'm not sure what cooper wire is, but if it holds the braid level with the valve, it should be okay in my inexperienced opinion.
True this. Just shorten your SS braid to about 12'' and you'll be golden. Never had my SS braid collapse, on my MT or BK. Only stuck sparge I have ever had was when I used about a half pound of zest trying to cool from the boil kettle. But I guess that wouldn't make it a stuck SPARGE now would it....
 
OP
bxtzd3

bxtzd3

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Messages
172
Reaction score
5
Location
JIM THORPE
well i used my first braid with a copper coil in and it worked. of course how well i will know in 4 weeks, when this b*tch is bottled and ready
 

jpmg

Active Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
35
Reaction score
7
Location
Vancouver
That looks like it would be a PITA. Too long, too flexible, too wimpy. I used a 12 inch water heater supply line. It would go over the outside of you fittings. I can beat the s*#t out of it when stirring with no problems.

I think I used this one. http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-3-4-in-x-12-in-Braided-Stainless-Steel-Water-Heater-Supply-Line-FIP-x-FIP-Lead-Free-LFBK-LBF-12/203789991#.Udt1LfmW-So
That's the same one I used. Works awesome and doesn't require any reinforcement. It was a bit of bitch to slip the braid off the rubber hose inside though. I believe I used a 3/4" brass nut to cap it and married the other end to my existing 1/4" barb connector.
 

bazowie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
134
Reaction score
20
Location
Portland
I too tried that once and that was enough, I went to Depot and got pvc (the type that takes hot water) and built a manifold and drilled 1/16" hole all over it and have never had another problem.
 

Denny

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
Jun 4, 2005
Messages
5,544
Reaction score
1,067
Location
Eugene
That's the same one I used. Works awesome and doesn't require any reinforcement. It was a bit of bitch to slip the braid off the rubber hose inside though. I believe I used a 3/4" brass nut to cap it and married the other end to my existing 1/4" barb connector.
Think of it as the old Chinese fingercuffs trick. Push each end of the braid in towrds the center. The braid will expand and you can pull out the tubing.
 

jpmg

Active Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
35
Reaction score
7
Location
Vancouver
Think of it as the old Chinese fingercuffs trick. Push each end of the braid in towrds the center. The braid will expand and you can pull out the tubing.
That's what I did. The rubber inside was just so 'sticky' that it was difficult to do properly. Not terribly difficult, but required more effort than the narrower toilet supply lines.
 
Top