mawa said:I understand your frustration BrooZer
I've made 6 batches so far, and it's not like they taste exactly the same, they do have differences but there has always been this "taste" in all of the batches that I cannot describe, but it's always there.
I've read in the forum about an "extract twang" but haven't seen a detailed explanation for this or how to get rid of it or at least minimize it.
All my batches have been with LME and have used different hops. All of them have been purchased at AHS.
Would using DME instead of LME help get rid of the "twang"?
Regards!
Mawa
malkore said:and it seems like extract kits often don't get very creative with the hops. the ones I get always seem to be Hallertau
Extract 'twang': Described as molasses or licorice, caused by aging of the LME (ages since there is water still in it), get rid of it by using LME very fresh or go all DME, putting recipes together will let you choose your ingredients (such as DME), the aging of LME also makes it darkermawa said:I understand your frustration BrooZer
I've made 6 batches so far, and it's not like they taste exactly the same, they do have differences but there has always been this "taste" in all of the batches that I cannot describe, but it's always there.
I've read in the forum about an "extract twang" but haven't seen a detailed explanation for this or how to get rid of it or at least minimize it.
All my batches have been with LME and have used different hops. All of them have been purchased at AHS.
Would using DME instead of LME help get rid of the "twang"?
Regards!
Mawa
John Palmer suggests this in his book too. He adds all the DME in the beginning of the boil and all the LME with 5 minutes left in the boil. He claims it results in a clearer beer as well.Madtown Brew said:You could try adding the extract later in the boil. For my PM's, I usually add it at about 15 min left. If your only using extract (with or without steeping grains) then maybe add half at the beginning of the boil and half at 15 min left.
Where are you getting your LME from? Are you using the canned kind or the kind that comes in a jug?cclloyd said:I have used bulk LME in all my batches and some 1K bags of DME in a couple with steeped grains in all but my very first batch and I have yet to have any off flavors or "twang". Maybe I'm lucky maybe it's something I'm doing or not doing I dunno. I do know that every one of my friends who has tried any or all of my brews so far are all coming back for more and anxiously awaiting the next batch. I've made 10 batched so far and all of the nine that are bottled have been really good and all have distinct profiles and flavors. I've used Safale US-05 in most of the batches - Nottingham Ale yeast in one and I did a hefe and a dunkel with Wyeast 3068.
I have been reading Papazians book and will likely go full boil as soon as I can find a 10Gal SS pot that doesn't set me back $$$ too much and will eventually go AG. For now, I'm gonna keep doin what I'm doin.
BrooZer said:Why is it that my extract brews all taste pretty much the same??
I have done several of the AHS kits (and some Midwest kits too) with LME and speciality grains and can tell you that they didn't taste the same or exhibit any "twang" or other odd/off flavors.BrooZer said:Thanks guys for all of your responses. I have been using extract kits from AHBS with specialty grains and mostly LME partial DME. I have used different yeasts and also obviously brewed different kits. I dont konw how to partial mash, all I have is a 22qt stock pot so I cant do full boils, my stove cant even get a vigourous boil out of 3 gallons.
Im thining about doing my next beer all DME. Any other suggestions?
Glad to hear that, as I had fun brewing my first batch (AHS) with steeping grains and hops, and I'm quite looking forward to doing some more from AHS. All my previous batches were extract only, but I didn't notice any twang. Perhaps there's something in BrooZer's water...brewt00l said:I have done several of the AHS kits (and some Midwest kits too) with LME and speciality grains and can tell you that they didn't taste the same or exhibit any "twang" or other odd/off flavors.
I'd bet that's you're problem. I noticed a bit of a twang when I did partial boils. Once I moved to full boils, that taste was gone. I've used both DME and LME and haven't had a problem with either (except for some color issues).BrooZer said:all I have is a 22qt stock pot so I cant do full boils, my stove cant even get a vigourous boil out of 3 gallons.
BrooZer said:Thanks guys for all of your responses. I have been using extract kits from AHBS with specialty grains and mostly LME partial DME. I have used different yeasts and also obviously brewed different kits. I dont konw how to partial mash, all I have is a 22qt stock pot so I cant do full boils, my stove cant even get a vigourous boil out of 3 gallons.
Im thining about doing my next beer all DME. Any other suggestions?
I agree. Once you go to PM you will notice a marked improvement in the flavor of your beer.Damn Squirrels said:For less than $20 or so, you can have the tools to be doing partial mashing which will dramatically increase your range of flavors. Why not give that a shot?
My biggest makred improvement in quality came when I moved to partial mash...and the higher my grain/extract ratio got, the better the beers were. I can't say that AG is the pinnacle...I'd say that, all other things being equal, there's no significant difference between a mostly-mash and an all-grain...but the difference between a 20/80 grain-to-extract brew and an 80/20 grain-to-extract brew is pretty amazing.ohiobrewtus said:I agree. Once you go to PM you will notice a marked improvement in the flavor of your beer.
ohiobrewtus said:I agree. Once you go to PM you will notice a marked improvement in the flavor of your beer.
Evan! said:
Oh, and regarding your stove...wait till November if you can. WalMart will have turkey fryer kits for $40. You get a 55,000 BTU propane burner + stand, a 30qt alum pot (great for brewing, I still use mine), and a dial thermometer (not very accurate but good for sparge water temp monitoring, etc.). I bought two.
One note: Most cheap mechanical thermometers are not very accurate in the top and bottom 10% of their ranges. If your fryer comes with a 750* oil thermometer, I wouldn't trust it for mash temps (<200*).Evan! said:dial thermometer (not very accurate but good for sparge water temp monitoring, etc.).
BrooZer said:Do you use the aluminum pot that came with? I thought that was bad.
No. Stainless is more durable, but aluminum is fine. Helps if you boil just water in the aluminum pot for ~30 minutes before you use it for the first time - this will build up a layer of oxidation to prevent a small amount (less than what is in Tums) of aluminum from getting into the first batch that you make in it.BrooZer said:Still curious about those aluminum turkey fryer pots. Are they bad?