All my extract kits are darker than they should be

[sirbrewsalittle]

As the title says, every extract kit I've done so far has turned out darker than what the description should be. For instance, I just brewed the NB dead ringer and its the color of a brown ale. I'm following the instructions NB sent with it. I think it could be I'm adding the LME to soon and should hold off on adding it till near the end? What do you guys think? There has been no problem with taste (exept when i used bad tap water). Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Kylev]

Certainly a common problem with any extract recipe I've followed. I've found that adding half the LME at the beginning of the boil, and half as a late addition (15 minutes remaining in boil) tends to help. I've recently moved to all grain, but it was rare for any of my extract brews to be lighter than an amber.

Make sure to pull your kettle off the heat when adding your LME (if you don't already) to prevent it from settling to the bottom and scorching, further darkening your wort and stir like crazy before returning to your burner/stove.

 

[d3track]

If you can push half to 2/3 to flameout, that will help a lot.

 

[ecobb]

Add 1/4 of your dme/lme at the beginning and the rest at 10 min or flameout. I had the same issue as you and went from a dark amber to a light orange/amber with the above method.

 

[sirbrewsalittle]

Awesome, that is what I was thinking just wanted to check before I screwed up a batch. Yes I do remove from heat before adding the LME

Thanks Guys

 

[unionrdr]

When I do AE with LME, I add one pound per gallon of water in the boil for hop additions. The remainder @ flame out. Since the wort's still boiling hot & pasteurization happens in seconds @ 160F, Bob's your uncle.

 

[schematix]

My 1.038 Pilsen DME yeast starters that get boiled for 8 minutes are deep gold... i was never able to make an extract batch lighter than a an orange gold color.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

Ive had this issue too and found that it all depends on the hop schedule as to how late you add the dme or sugar, you can boil extract for as little as 15 minutes if needed for an ultra light pilsner but I do 45 just for the first bittering hop addition but I don't add the dme or any fermentables until 30 minutes left, then boil as low as possible, this helps with keeping the beer color unchanged

 

[waltzbrewingco]

Most all of my extracts have been this way as well. Never done an all grain so couldn't compare but I've read as much that the late edition of the LME helps. Will be trying this with my next batch.

 

[unionrdr]

You can add DME at the beginning of the boil & get light colors. It doesn't darken as readily as LME dies. Also, use plain extra light DME if you want that pilsner color. The plain light gives a dark gold to light amber-orange color in my experiences.

 

[Sailingeric]

I do about 1/3 at start of boil and rest at flame out. It may affect the IBU/ hop utilization but I have not noticed by beers coming stronger than I expected but I have not done a side by side to see how much if any change in bitterness. May have to do a test for shiggles.

 

[paperairplane]

Also if you can do a full volume boil you will reduce maillard reactions - which are causing caramelization and darker color.

 

[unionrdr]

Doing partial boils with late extract additions doesn't seem to effect the hop additions much in regard to bitterness. But the flavors when hops are added loose in the kettle does give'em a bit more edge in my opinion. Topping off doesn't seem to alter things enough to make much of a difference hop-wise.

 

[eadavis80]

I did late extract additions twice and did notice a lighter color both times. The one I just brewed, NB's Conundrum IPA, had 3 pounds of LME at the beginning and the other 3 pounds with 15 minutes left in the boil. When I took my gravity sample, it was noticeably lighter in color. I will do late extract additions for all my beers that are lighter than ambers from now on.

 

[IslandLizard]

I did late extract additions twice and did notice a lighter color both times. The one I just brewed, NB's Conundrum IPA, had 3 pounds of LME at the beginning and the other 3 pounds with 15 minutes left in the boil. When I took my gravity sample, it was noticeably lighter in color. I will do late extract additions for all my beers that are lighter than ambers from now on.

Only add 2# (1/3) at the beginning and the rest (2/3) at flameout. No need to boil it for 15 minutes. It will be even lighter and better tasting.

 

[unionrdr]

I do it at flame out with all my beers. I felt it was a good habit to get into. Since the wort's still boiling hot & pasteurization happens in seconds @ 160F, it's all good & sanitary.

 

[bobbrews]

OP, to correct your issue:

1. Do full volume boils with no top off water. Try not to exceed 60 minutes total boil time.
2. Skip the use of LME completely. Use Extra Light DME.
3. Add enough DME at boil start to attain at least 1.040 OG (using a recipe calculator). Add the rest at flameout (not 10 or 15 minutes left).
4. Substitute a portion of the DME in the recipe for Corn Sugar or Table Sugar. This won't help too much, but a 7-10% swap can make a slight difference.
5. Limit or exclude the use of crystal or steeping malts. If using, stick to 5% (or less) Light Crystal between 10-30L.
6. Become more efficient at racking. Cloudy/hazy beers with a decent amount of particulate matter can appear darker due to the way light hits the beer.

You can hit 5 SRM or so with the above advice. If you are still not satisfied, dabble in partial mash or all grain brewing.

 

[mdbrewer1]

I've done two batches of Centennial Blonde and both have been what I consider just a bit darker than the typical macro light lager. I add half of the extra light DME at the beginning and the other half at the end of the boil. Using the same method, I've had similar success with my Oktoberfast and Caramel Amber Ale coming fairly close in color to the style using the recommended extract type and crystal.