All Cascade IPA

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motobrewer

I'm no atheist scientist, but...
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So i'm thinking about an all-cascade IPA, using 8oz cascade total. I'm having trouble with the grain bill. Would like to keep it relatively simple, so how's this? also, what yeast?

1.060 (75% eff)

10 lb 2-row
1.0 lb C60
0.5 lb Carapils
0.5 lb C20

Then 1oz Cascade additions at 60,50,40,30,20,10,1 min

Primary 30 days, rack to secondary and dry hop 1oz cascade for 14 days

keg.

comments, suggestions? thanks!
 
i'm doing something similar atm, but with extract.
got my WLP001 Cali Ale in the starter flask right now.
6-gallon brew (2 x 3 gallon kegs)
planning to use 6# light DME plus 2# rice syrup, and 1# barley flakes in the boil.
2 oz Cascade each at the break, 30, 10, and the rack.
i will use irish moss and a cold crash to clarify.
basically it's my annual kitchen sink brew to use up the rest of my stuff from last year before I plan my summer brews, but this usually works out well.
 
Well, my first impression is that this beer won't have enough malt backbone to balance the bitterness. With that hopping schedule, you'll have over 100 IBUs, most of which will be in the form of bitterness (not aroma or flavor) from the 60, 50, and 40 minute additions.

I'd use a Pale Malt with some character, like a Maris Otter. Then chuck in a pound of Victory Malt for some malt complexity. Then I'd ditch the idea of the 50 and 40 minute additions, keep the rest, and end up with a malt to hop ratio (BU:GU) to around 1:1.

Two weeks in primary should be sufficient (instead of the 30 days you mention) and then 7-10 days in the secondary on dry hop.

I'd use WL001 for yeast.
 
I ran it thru Beer Tools Pro and here's where it came in at with my Cascade numbers (5.5%)YMMV.

All Cascade IPA
14-B American IPA

Size: 6.0 gal
Efficiency: 75.0%
Attenuation: 75.0%
Calories: 196.18 kcal per 12.0 fl oz

Original Gravity: 1.059 (1.056 - 1.075)
Terminal Gravity: 1.015 (1.010 - 1.018)
Color: 12.66 (6.0 - 15.0)
Alcohol: 5.8% (5.5% - 7.5%)
Bitterness: 76.2 (40.0 - 70.0)

Ingredients:
12.0 lb American 2-row
1.0 lb American Caramel 60°L
.5 lb Cara-Pils® Malt
.5 lb Crystal Malt 20°L
1.0 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min
1.0 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 50 min
1.0 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 40 min
1.0 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 30 min
1.0 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 20 min
1.0 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 10 min
1.0 oz Cascade (5.5%) - added during boil, boiled 1.0 min

Schedule:
Ambient Air: 70.0 °F
Source Water: 60.0 °F
Elevation: 0.0 m


Results generated by BeerTools Pro 1.5.7
 
I should have clarified. These are 5% Cascades

Kahuna, I'm currently drinking an ESB I made that used Maris Otter. While this is a great beer (best I've made so far), I want something more American, something pretty dry.

So, I've added another pound of 2-row and ditched the 50 min addition, and turned 40 into 45. So, 60,45,30,20,10,1,dryhop. Beersmith gave me 55 IBU's, 1.064 OG.

I've never used Victory, what does it give?
 
I should have clarified. These are 5% Cascades

Kahuna, I'm currently drinking an ESB I made that used Maris Otter. While this is a great beer (best I've made so far), I want something more American, something pretty dry.

So, I've added another pound of 2-row and ditched the 50 min addition, and turned 40 into 45. So, 60,45,30,20,10,1,dryhop. Beersmith gave me 55 IBU's, 1.064 OG.

I've never used Victory, what does it give?

IMHO maris otter won't give your IPA an english flavor, but it will give it a malty backbone to hang all those american hops on.
Victory will add a subtle kind of a toasty, nutty type of element....a little depth and character. Personally, I would use vienna or munich over victory for a cascade IPA - I think victory can add a bit of english character, though I'd bet it wouldn't come across that way in your hoppy ale.
 
moto, this is a beer I'll probably be making this spring/summer. If you want a dry beer I'd consider dropping the carapils. You have 1.5 lb of crystal already and that should provide plenty of body. I wouldn't add both crystal and carapils at those amounts.

I did an all-Simcoe IPA where I used just a half-pound each of C20 and carapils, mashing at 150F for 90 minutes. If I was to do it again, I wouldn't add the carapils. I got enough head formation/retention from the amount of hops I added (I feel).

Victory provides some biscuit/toast notes. I used 2 lbs of home-toasted pale malt in my IPA and felt it turned out great.

As for your hopping schedule, I haven't yet done "continuous" additions to know how much perception of bitterness you get. Some say it is more rounded (read less bitter) but that might depend of the type of hop. Let us know how it turns out!
 
If it were me, I'd save some hops for a dry-hop...

i'm dry-hopping with one ounce, is that not enough?

with ditching the 50 min addition i have another ounce to burn, should I up the dry hopping to two ounces?

Mashing at 150 seems like a good idea, altho I'll probably just do a 60.

Good point on the carapils. Maybe I'll do:

10.5 lb 2-row
1.0 lb Vienna
1.0 lb C60
0.5 lb C20

hopping schedule as previously defined. maybe up dry-hop to 2 ounces.

still looking for yeast. Like i said i'd like it dry, maybe 1.064 -> 1.013
 
are you kegging? you could dry-hop in the carboy w/ 1oz and then toss the other in the keg for extra hoppage. Otherwise, go ahead and dryhop with two ounces. for IPA's I usually use and ounce each of a couple of different hops (latest was chinook/amarillo)....two ounces is certainly not too much for an IPA.
 
yeah kegging. maybe i'll give that a try. i've never dry-hopped before.

55 IBU's enough for a 1.064 beer? 0.868 IBU:GU.

Also, since i'm dryhopping, is the 1 minute boil addition necessary?
 
I read and heard that there is no real benefit to 30 minute additions. That addition is more inclined to achieve about equal bitterness, aroma and flavor which according to some offers little to the outcome of the brew.

I also heard that flame out or 1 minute additions are good as there will be some residule oils lasting through the fermentation other than what you would get from dry hopping.

Your recipe looks good. Sometimes, to dry out a beer, I add a nice dollop of honey.

Some High Attenuating yeasts that "could" work-

Wyeast -
AM Ale (1056), AM Ale II (1272), Pacman (1764), Thames (1275), German Ale (1007)

White Labs-
Cali Ale (001), Dry English (007), Am Ale Blend (060), Cream Ale (080)

Dry -
Safale S05, Safale S04, Safebrew S33, and Notti
 
I read and heard that there is no real benefit to 30 minute additions. That addition is more inclined to achieve about equal bitterness, aroma and flavor which according to some offers little to the outcome of the brew.

I also heard that flame out or 1 minute additions are good as there will be some residule oils lasting through the fermentation other than what you would get from dry hopping.

Your recipe looks good. Sometimes, to dry out a beer, I add a nice dollop of honey.

Some High Attenuating yeasts that "could" work-

Wyeast -
AM Ale (1056), AM Ale II (1272), Pacman (1764), Thames (1275), German Ale (1007)

White Labs-
Cali Ale (001), Dry English (007), Am Ale Blend (060), Cream Ale (080)

Dry -
Safale S05, Safale S04, Safebrew S33, and Notti

Hm, interesting thoughts on the hop addition. What would you do, eliminate or push to 45 min or...?

I have been wanting to try dry yeast, maybe I'll give S05 or Notty a chance.
 
I tried to clone the HUB IPA from Hopworks this weekend.

They use Pilsner, Munich and Caramunich. I guess I'll see in a month or 2.

And I have to have Centennial in my IPA's.
 
Hm, interesting thoughts on the hop addition. What would you do, eliminate or push to 45 min or...?

I have been wanting to try dry yeast, maybe I'll give S05 or Notty a chance.

I skip the 30 minute by either 10 minutes (add at 40) or 5 minutes (add at 25). I personally have yet to prove that this does anything different but you know sometimes what you read or hear intrigues the mind and sometimes it makes for more satisfaction. I have had great results though at both 40 and 25 or less. I haven't added hops in the 30 zone (39 -30 minutes) in a long time, but that is not to say you can't, (you know us brewers always being able to pull the artisitic license card).

S05 and Notti are both staples in my brewery, although some beers require more complexity, but they are definate go tos.

Let us know how it turns!

WW
 
mrmalty suggests 1.2 sachets of dry. is 1 fine or should i dump two in?

as stated, I do want this fairly dry. hopefully s05 can push 78% aa!

ordered ingredients today. doubt i'll brew this weekend, but definitely next. kind of excited, my hoppiest beer to date has been an ESB with 3oz of 4.5% goldings.
 
I should have clarified. These are 5% Cascades

Kahuna, I'm currently drinking an ESB I made that used Maris Otter. While this is a great beer (best I've made so far), I want something more American, something pretty dry.

So, I've added another pound of 2-row and ditched the 50 min addition, and turned 40 into 45. So, 60,45,30,20,10,1,dryhop. Beersmith gave me 55 IBU's, 1.064 OG.

I've never used Victory, what does it give?

I think it looks great, but you know what I would do? Keep everything the same, let fermentation go for a week or so, and when it start to die down, feed it a pound of dextrose to help dry it out and get a little more ABV to balance out the bitterness.

I have an American IIPA that has over 100 IBU's that I fed two pounds of dextrose to the fermenter for an OG of 1.090 or so. I used pacman, it dried it out to 1.012.....that is huge attenuation.
 
ok, so, update. these are 7.5% cascades, lol. so i came up with 2 options. (OG is still 1.064

1. Ditch the 60min addition, and have additions at 50,40,20,10,0. 62 IBU's

2. Ditch the 50min and drop 40min to 0.5oz. 53 IBUs.

Issues with both these are, what to do with the left over 1-1.5oz hops? Not that leftover hops are a bad thing, i just don't know what to do with it. I'm still dry-hopping with 2oz (secondary 1oz keg 1oz). I could put the remaining ounces at 5min.

i'm open to suggestions. Brewing on sunday. Thanks!
 
well, i haven't brewed this yet, but I'm definitely brewing it saturday.

I'm still open to suggestions. Right now i have:

1.0oz at 60
0.5oz at 40
1.0oz at 20,10,5,0

57 IBU's

dry hop with 1oz in secondary for 10
keg hop with 1oz until gone.
 
The recipe seems a little heavy on the crystal. A lb and a half of crystal is quite a bit for almost any recipe let alone an IPA. I'd cut the 20 and the 60 in half.
 
you're far too late for grainbill suggestions, lol. already bought, crushed, and mixed.

I was gonna mash pretty low (~149) if that helps anything.
 
Update-

This turned out fantastic. I had some transfer issues from BK to fermentor, so I ended up with 5.5gal of 1.048, and it got down to 1.005. Dry hopped with 1oz cascade secondary for 11 days, did not keg hop.

Balanced bitterness, excellent aroma, easy drinkability.
 
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